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Old 11-10-2016, 10:43 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by 325BH View Post
Are you sure you have looked all over the door jamb area? In can be anywhere in there. Could be on the pillar, the horizontal area at the bottom, etc. Usually near the yellow sticker, but not always. One of my cars has them over a foot apart.

I have a hard time believing that the sticker was never placed. Peeling them off would take deliberate action and isn't easy.
I checked all 4 doors and found nothing other than the tire sticker I posted that shows the payload. I saw evidence of a sticker that may have been removed, either. I'm not home right now, but next week I'll pop the hood and see if something is under there.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:15 PM   #202
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I backs just like a set of doubles. That is a converter dolly and nothing else. It assumes the king pin weight of the 5er. Physically what is happening is the tongue of the dolly pivots on the hitch ball and the king pin of the 5er pivots on the dolly hitch plate.

You have a double joint and consequently any steering input when backing is amplified in the opposite direction and because the dolly is a short wheelbase the directional changes are abrupt.

You obviously sell them so I expect your comments to my comment about it to be derogatory but I've been pulling commercial short doubles for years and it takes real skill just to back in a straight line when everything starts out lined up straight to begin with.

Backing off angle is almost impossible. It can be done, I've done it in a pinch (when no one was watching) but I certainly would not recommend it. You can 'wad' up the dolly and the truck and trailer very quickly.

Don't know what it sells for and don't want one. I already know the pitfalls of the operational principles and I personally would not recommend them to anyone unless they were only pulling in a straight ahead motion and never backing up.

Problem is, in real life at some point you will have to back up and that is where the potential for vehicle or trailer damage occurs.

If it was feasible to safely back a converter dolly (which is what the unit is), then companies like Yellow Freight and UPS would allow their drivers to back converter dolly based doubles. They don't. In fact, of a Driver is caught backing a set, they are terminated. The risk for vehicle damage is too great. Same applies to your product.

Like I said, straight line pulling, no issue. Backing, big issue. I'm not only a CDL certified driver, I happen to be a safety and compliance officer for a large commercial carrier.

Not here to argue, just to air the pitfalls of a converter dolly as it pertains to a non commercial driver pulling an RV.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:32 PM   #203
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Since it's 2 connections to the tow vehicle, wouldn't it backup just like a bumper pull? The ASH won't jackknife, right?
It will jackknife so fast (because the wheelbase between the bumper hitch and the pin hitch which is above the centerline of the dolly wheels is very short.

Backing that would be downright scary even for a professional driver, let alone an RV'er.

Put another way, you have a moveable joint between the truck and the dolly (the ball hitch) so the theoretical wheelbase is the distance between the centerline of the hitch ball and the centerline of the dolly axle. The 5er has no bearing whatsoever on the ability to back up, only the dolly will have impact.

Because the trailer axles are so far rearward, they have no impact whatsoever.

Like I said previously, straight line forward, no issue at all. Backing, no way.

If you know a farmer, ask him if you can back up one of his haywagons with a tractor. Same principle applies there. double joint, short wheelbase.

Anything can be done with enough practice and a bit of luck but safely with an inexperienced operator... you decide.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:39 PM   #204
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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
Put another way, you have a moveable joint between the truck and the dolly (the ball hitch) so the theoretical wheelbase is the distance between the centerline of the hitch ball and the centerline of the dolly axle.

Based on this video, it appears to have 3 points of attachment to the tow vehicle. How is it going to be moveable?

http://www.automatedsafetyhitch.com/...uto-alignment/

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Old 11-10-2016, 11:47 PM   #205
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As ependydad says, there's 3-point attachment. The ASH doesn't rotate.

Here's the backing video:

Backing | The Automated Safety Hitch
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:55 PM   #206
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So it's locked as a solid unit to the truck. Interesting. I wonder how much strain it imparts to the ends of the frame rails.

A normal converter dolly pivots, I see this don't. It's rigid mount. I still don't like it.

Now if the dolly axle was steerable, that could be interesting...............

Me, I'll stick with a one ton diesel.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:58 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
As ependydad says, there's 3-point attachment. The ASH doesn't rotate.

Here's the backing video:

Backing | The Automated Safety Hitch
I watched it. If you care to, look at the tire scrub marks on the concrete in the video. That tells me there is some serious torsional stress being imparted to the truck frame.

Not my cup of tea.
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:51 AM   #208
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So it's locked as a solid unit to the truck. Interesting. I wonder how much strain it imparts to the ends of the frame rails.



A normal converter dolly pivots, I see this don't. It's rigid mount. I still don't like it.



Now if the dolly axle was steerable, that could be interesting...............



Me, I'll stick with a one ton diesel.

Maybe it's the $10k they spend on it, but actual owners seem to love it. I haven't read bad from owners/users of the thing. Just a lot of commentary from people who see it and don't like it.
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Old 11-11-2016, 01:18 AM   #209
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You obviously sell them...
Not here to argue...
Nope, I don't sell them. I have no vested interest in this product.

Neither am I here to argue. Only responding to incorrect information so that others may know the facts and truth.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
If you know a farmer, ask him if you can back up one of his haywagons with a tractor.
Believe it or not, starting when I was 12, I worked on my 3rd cousin's tobacco farm in NC and was backing 3 trailers by the time I was 14.

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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
Now if the dolly axle was steerable, that could be interesting...............
For someone who refuses to self educate, it makes you look like Dr. Wayne Dyer's poster boy.



Sorry, just calling it as I perceive it.
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:00 AM   #210
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Interesting thread. For me, if you have to buy complicated add-ons to make your equipment usable, you just need to start over with different equipment
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:02 PM   #211
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Rockford,

One last hope is the glove box door, though it is supposed to be on the door pillar, or the door itself if you don't have a pillar. If you can't find it contact your dealer. These stickers are not optional. It will also have your axle ratings on it.


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Old 11-11-2016, 02:39 PM   #212
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I had checked
the glove box-nothing there with GVWR on it.
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Old 11-11-2016, 04:03 PM   #213
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Then contact your dealer.


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Old 11-11-2016, 04:11 PM   #214
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Interesting thread. For me, if you have to buy complicated add-ons to make your equipment usable, you just need to start over with different equipment

X 200
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:44 PM   #215
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I understand. I assume you are referring to your truck listed in your signature block. 2015 Ford F350 SRW Cargo Capacity 3744? If so, what is the wheelbase length?
SuperCab with 143.5 wheelbase.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:21 PM   #216
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SuperCab with 143.5 wheelbase.
Thanks for that info. After rereading all your statements again, I think I have a better understanding of your situation.

Based on what you said, I suspected you had a short wheelbase truck. It is no wonder you were having difficulty towing a 39.5 foot trailer. The people that told you that you could, probably didn’t ask all the right questions. It’s unfortunate you learned this the hard way, and it cost to the boot.

Without knowing all the weight specifics, I suspect the realistic vehicle towing capacity for your truck is somewhere between 8,000 to 9,000 pounds for a fifth wheel trailer. Using RV Tow Check could prove or disprove my estimation.

Although the Automated Safety Hitch System would effectively increase your truck’s wheelbase and make it able to tow a longer and heavier trailer safely, you would still have a problem with the 3.55 gear ratio. That would have to be increased to at least 3.73. 4.10 would be even better.

I agree with what others are saying about it is better to get the right truck to tow the trailer owned or desired. The truth is, not every RVer wants to or can do that for multiple reasons. For those who want to keep their truck, they have no other alternative but to consider the various options available. The Automated Safety Hitch System is just one of them. I know a few who choose it over getting dually truck and they are very happy with that decision.

At this point, if you haven’t done so, I encourage you to obtain two rig weigh-ins to find out if any of the weight safety ratings are exceeded. One with the truck and trailer and one with the truck only.

If I misinterpreted you, please let me know.
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:49 PM   #217
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This is my current 5er that tows perfect even in the wind and plenty of power for hills.

Specs of a 310GK-R weighted at a CAT scale on 30 Oct 2016

Status from Grand Design Website.
UVW 12,100
Dry Pin Weight 2635

From Grand Design Weight Sheet that came with my 5er and has my VIN listed on the top of the sheet.
GVWR 15,000
GAWR (Per Axle) 7,000
UVW 12226 (Matches Sticker on 5er)
Hitch Weight 2392
Left (Street Side) 5326
Right (Curb Side) 4508
Cargo Carrying Capacity 2714


Truck Specs
Ford F350 Diesel SuperCab 143” Wheel Base 6.5 foot bed.
B&W Campion Hitch non slider
Web Spec 4050 Payload
Yellow Door Sticker 3744
GVWR 11,500
Rear Axle Ratings 7,000
Front Axle Ratings 5,200
GCWR 23,500
Tow Rating 15,900

Truck ONLY Ready to Camp Weight Cat Scales
Front Axle Weight - 4740
Rear Axle Weight - 3480
Total Weight 8220

Cat Scale With 5er Hooked up
Steering Axle - 5000lbs
Drive Axle 6320
Trailer Axle 10,520
Gross Combine Weight 21,840

Bottom Line
Truck Weight ready to camp (Truck Only) 8220
Truck Weight (Hitched) 11,320
Camper Weight 13,620
Pin Weight 3,100
Pin Weight Percentage 22.8%
2392 Factory Pin Weight 3100 scale weight increase of 708 pounds
12,226 Factory UVW 13,600 Cat Scale Weight increase of 1374 lbs
Over 50% of the 1374 pounds loaded went to pin weight
Just goes to show how much weight is loaded forward of the axle
Factory Scale weighs of 2392 pin and 12,226 UVW = 19.6 percent pin weight
Cat Scale Weights 13600 GVW and 3100 pin = 22.8 percent pin percentage or increase of 3.2 Percent over Dry percentage

In comparison the Montana had a front living room with two small cabinets and basement that was only 30" wide. 80% of all the storage was over or behind the axles with the bedroom and bathroom behind the axles and the second basement. The more you loaded the lighter then pin got. The 5er gross weight was 14,600 with a pin just under 20%. My theory is with all the weight in the aft of the 5er and short wheel base truck it was like a pendulum on clock with the weight behind the axles over powering the the truck when there was a side wind. The Montana towed great without any kind of side winds.

Power has never been a problem up to 14,600 Montana the only problem was side winds and I have always towed under the GVWR of my truck.
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:43 PM   #218
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This is my current 5er that tows perfect even in the wind and plenty of power for hills.
Thank you for the very detailed info. I have saved it for my own analysis for future app improvements. I wish I could get more info like that from more RVers.

Your rig appears to be in excellent shape and well within the weight safety tow ratings. Good job!

Towing power or ability is rarely a problem for diesel trucks. It was your combination of short wheelbase and the long Montana that was the issue. I continuously research for a wheelbase to length ratio calculation. There's not a simple formula for that. Your info will help me with that.
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K&N cold air intake with AEM dry filter
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:57 PM   #219
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Thank you for the very detailed info. I have saved it for my own analysis for future app improvements. I wish I could get more info like that from more RVers.

Your rig appears to be in excellent shape and well within the weight safety tow ratings. Good job!

Towing power or ability is rarely a problem for diesel trucks. It was your combination of short wheelbase and the long Montana that was the issue. I continuously research for a wheelbase to length ratio calculation. There's not a simple formula for that. Your info will help me with that.
I don't think it is as simple as wheelbase to length ratio since I know several people towing 40 foot 5ers with 143.5 inch wheelbase without a problem. I think it is was a combo of short wheelbase to length with the floor plan with most the cargo storage over and behind the axles making a light pin of just less than 20%.
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:34 PM   #220
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I don't think it is as simple as wheelbase to length ratio since I know several people towing 40 foot 5ers with 143.5 inch wheelbase without a problem. I think it is was a combo of short wheelbase to length with the floor plan with most the cargo storage over and behind the axles making a light pin of just less than 20%.
The length of my 5er is only 35'. With full water at the rear pin is just over 18%. Cross winds on western interstates have not been noticed. Front and bedroom storage is light. Wife liked that front LR Montana but now I'm thinking it is not a good idea.,
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