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Old 01-30-2016, 05:33 PM   #61
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Ikk sorry am new and didnt realize I was on a thread-sorry.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:45 PM   #62
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I don't understand the manufacturer tow ratings. A dually has a much greater rear axle weight rating but the same gvw and gcvw, in turn giving you LESS capacity due to the fact the dually weighs more. I could load my entire payload capacity right on the bumper and not exceed the rating of the rear axle. What gives?
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:13 PM   #63
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Hi everyone,we bought a 2015 flagstaff superlite 27rlws travel trailer in July. I pull it with my Ford 2014 f150 4 wheel drive super crewcab with 3.5 ecoboost with factory tow package and weight distribution hitch. I have had several people say I do not have enough truck for the trailer but it does fine here in Kansas and Missouri. The dryweight on the tt is 6443 lb and when I did the math seemed like I was fine. Did I screw up somehow? All comments welcome hehe.
You are probably fine but if you want to confirm that you're within the ratings for your F-150 (GVWR, GAWRs and GCWR), use this website and take your (loaded ready to camp) trailer to the nearest CAT scales.
Actual Weights - Travel Trailer/Bumper Pull Weights from CAT Scales - Towing Planner

Your tow ratings can be found here:
http://www.fleet.ford.com/towing-guides/

Check the yellow sticker on your drivers door for exact numbers for your vehicle.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:13 AM   #64
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If you have this...
Then you ok!

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Old 03-15-2016, 02:02 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Chuckinca View Post
My 2006 F150 5.4L had a max towing capacity of 8,900#; my Rockwood 2102W had a loaded capacity of near 7,000#: nearly 2,000# less than max towing capacity. With only a 4 spd tranny and no tow/haul the F150 was always searching for a gear even when I took it out of OD.

I really liked the F150 but it was too light to be used to haul a 7,000# TT.

.
Totally agree, my Chevy has 9000 pound tow rating and it could not handle 5000 adequately.
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:05 PM   #66
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I have a 11 f350 diesel srw extended cab long box with the camper pag. I'm looking at a columbus 320rs. my guestion is the srw adaquate.
Pretty sure you going to be more than fine depending on your rear axle ratio but it shouldn't tell you in your manual
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:24 PM   #67
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If you have this...
Then you ok!

Attachment 101903


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That's so nice. What a rig.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:51 AM   #68
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Totally agree, my Chevy has 9000 pound tow rating and it could not handle 5000 adequately.
This is really interesting to me, I also have a F150 with the 5.4 and four speed. One of the big factors is gearing, many of the F150 for example had 3:55 gears and yes if you were pulling close to or even within 80 percent of your gross the trans would get overworked to say the least. I went to 4:11 gears with 235/70 16 tires and it works great, however fuel mileage when not towing will suffer a little bit. I believe the engineers gear vehicles for the best fuel mileage, not for best towing. Along with the lower gears the transmission runs much cooler.

I'm a retired truck technician and I do know suspension and gearing can make all the difference in the world. I also beefed up the suspension with air bags and torsion bar. I can pull 8800# now even though I don't pull that much I wouldn't be afraid to.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:07 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by rrapidron View Post
Hi everyone,we bought a 2015 flagstaff superlite 27rlws travel trailer in July. I pull it with my Ford 2014 f150 4 wheel drive super crewcab with 3.5 ecoboost with factory tow package and weight distribution hitch. I have had several people say I do not have enough truck for the trailer but it does fine here in Kansas and Missouri. The dryweight on the tt is 6443 lb and when I did the math seemed like I was fine. Did I screw up somehow? All comments welcome hehe.
If it is working for you, why worry about what someone else thinks. There is a old saying, if it's not broke, don't fix it.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:31 AM   #70
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As somebody who likes to have a decent percentage of buffer...I scratch my head when I read some of the questions people have. The guy who tows a too heavy camper with his crossover SUV because he wants to go camping so bad but doesn't want to give up some size. And he's got his family of 5 packed in it!

Not only are you putting your family at risk because you're too stubborn to look at real world numbers, or because the guy at the stealership said it would be ok, or that you're just to naive to know.....but guess what?!? They're the ones passing me at 75 while I have my wife and son in the right lane going 65. I want to get to my destination safe too....I've done my research and have all the right equipment....People come looking to see if they're doing the right thing....hear that they're not and continue on as if they've heard everything they wanted to hear.

Ok, I'll get off my soapbox now.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:13 PM   #71
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As somebody who likes to have a decent percentage of buffer...I scratch my head when I read some of the questions people have. The guy who tows a too heavy camper with his crossover SUV because he wants to go camping so bad but doesn't want to give up some size. And he's got his family of 5 packed in it!

Not only are you putting your family at risk because you're too stubborn to look at real world numbers, or because the guy at the stealership said it would be ok, or that you're just to naive to know.....but guess what?!? They're the ones passing me at 75 while I have my wife and son in the right lane going 65. I want to get to my destination safe too....I've done my research and have all the right equipment....People come looking to see if they're doing the right thing....hear that they're not and continue on as if they've heard everything they wanted to hear.

Ok, I'll get off my soapbox now.

"Amen"
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:26 AM   #72
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Sorry but I don't feel that way. I feel obligated to provide my towing experience and feel that towing guides, even from truck makers, would have you pulling trailers that are to heavy for the real world. I have been called weight police etc., I have pulled 5er's for a nunber of years and would not follow what the Ford towing guide for F250 2011 says that I could pull. I also wonder as I read in this forum that "you don't even know that it is back there" and wonder why I have never had that experience. Currently I tow a fiver with a GVWR of 9,980 lbs with a F250, 2011, diesel, crew cab, long bed, 2wd and I know that I am pulling it. Be careful, be safe and happy trails.
I have read a few articles about truck makers increasing their towing capacity without making any meanful improvements just so the can say mine can pull more then yours.
Totally agree. IMO, divide the OEM capacity by half or more. They are overly generous with tow capacity.
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:04 AM   #73
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I always shake my head when I see someone with a tahoe pulling a 35 ft long TT, it looks like the trailer is driving them, not the other way around.
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Old 04-02-2016, 02:56 PM   #74
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Well after reading these posts I'm a little concerned now. Thought I had done enough research on the towing capacity for my 2008 f250 with a 6.4 diesel. We are currently purchasing a 2016 5er with an empty weight of 12966 truck is 8000 which should give me 1900 lbs to play with. Hmm what to do...
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:09 PM   #75
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It would seem to me that the truck manufacturers need to include this requirement:
"For fifth wheel travel trailers, the payload of the truck as listed on the door panel must exceed by 50% the unloaded listed pin weight of the fifth wheel being pulled. Only when that requirement is met, should the towing capacities as listed be considered, but never exceeded".
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:14 PM   #76
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You really need all the certified numbers from your truck to know what it can safely carry/pull. Payload is usually the first number you'll go over. While it's listed on one of the two stickers you should really get the actual loaded weight numbers for adjusted payload. I.e. - driver, 300-400 lbs dead weight for passengers, full of fuel. Take that number from GVWR of the truck to get adjusted max payload. You'll hear that the driver is not payload, for up to 150 lbs that is, but by getting the weights at a certified scale and doing the calculations you'll know for sure. Good luck. BTW: I really think you're pushing the TV numbers with the trailer you listed but maybe not.
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:52 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Tarheel fan View Post
Well after reading these posts I'm a little concerned now. Thought I had done enough research on the towing capacity for my 2008 f250 with a 6.4 diesel. We are currently purchasing a 2016 5er with an empty weight of 12966 truck is 8000 which should give me 1900 lbs to play with. Hmm what to do...
Your pin weight is going to be about 18% of your gross trailer weight (loaded).

Assuming you are like most folks you will have between 1200 and 1500 pounds of "stuff" so figure 1350 pounds of camper cargo.

Gross trailer weight will run about 14,350 pounds.
At 18% your truck will carry about 2583 pounds on the pin.

Add about 100 pounds for the hitch and your "bed cargo" will be in the neighborhood of 2700 pounds.

That is way too much for my 2008 GMC Sierra Duramax/Allison (GVWR of 9300 pounds). Mine also weighs about 8000 empty.

I tow a 9200 pound (GVWR) camper and with wife and dog, I am over my truck payload numbers by a several hundred pounds every trip. My average pin weight has been running 1500 pounds.

It tows fine as I have plenty of power, but I know I am working my frame harder than I am supposed to.

If I knew then what I know now, I would have gotten a travel trailer. With an optimum tongue weight at 12% (instead of 18% for a 5th wheel) I could have gotten a lot more camper with a TT.
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Old 04-02-2016, 04:17 PM   #78
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A Fool-Proof Method for Judging your Tow Vehicle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel fan View Post
Well after reading these posts I'm a little concerned now. Thought I had done enough research on the towing capacity for my 2008 f250 with a 6.4 diesel. We are currently purchasing a 2016 5er with an empty weight of 12966 truck is 8000 which should give me 1900 lbs to play with. Hmm what to do...
What research did you do?
That's a huge 5er. Bigger than my sabre, which isn't small.
I tow it with a 3500 and am close.
Way too much.
IMHO.

They list that at 2500 lbs pin.
So, right away, before you do anything.. You are at least 500 over.
Add the hitch, and junk in the trailer...




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Old 04-02-2016, 05:35 PM   #79
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If the camper is right for you, you can use your current vehicle while you shop for a new 350 truck (which you will need).

Best option is to park it a campground (resort?) close to home and camp locally till you are better prepared to hit the big road ...
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:09 PM   #80
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Bigger is best

If you have to crunch numbers and calculate everything to make sure you aren't overloading your tow vehicle, you are probably too small. There is no excuse for putting your loved ones and others on the road in danger because you broke something, lost your brakes, blew a passenger rated tire or whatever else can happen due to overloading issues. I pull a 2013 28' cruiselite, with an atv, generator, extra fuel and water etc. and carry the family with a 2006 F350 crewcab longbed. I first towed it with the 1/2 ton crewcab I had when I bought the trailer because I was told the trailer is 1/2 to towable, which it was but with all the seats full and the gear I put in the truck I was 1000+ lbs over payload and handling in adverse conditions (which you had better plan for) like whoop ti doo's, pot holes, heavy traffic or anything other than cruising alone on a highway was downright scary. Yes I used an equalizer hitch rated for the trailer and set up by my dealer at time of purchase, which helped but it didn't seem to be enough. Air bags or overload springs may have helped sag but not axle, brake or tire issues. Consider how you will use the rig and make sure you are well equipped and stay well within the manufacturers payload guidelines.
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