Air Bags Affect on Trailer Sway

[{Tpc}]

Does it sway enough to kick in fords “anti-sway” mechanism? I feel like this is a tail wagging the dog situation because of the overall length of the trailer.

That 3.5 ecoboost isn’t going to have a problem pulling the load so that feels nice, but nothing can help with a shorter wheelbase vehicle. I’m sure the Hensley would be better, but that’s a big chunk of change. At least with a money back guarantee you could try it.

I looked at the husky hitch and it seems similar to the equalizer. I have a curt one that has “active” sway control (I think that is what the call it lol) and it works but it works often enough I hear it from the DW every time it does lol. Honestly I don’t like it, but the jury is still out until I can set it up myself as I think the dealer didn’t do a great job of it.

The curt one has bearings that come out is detents that are designed to push it back into the detents when it comes out..or something like that. Problem is it doesn’t take as much as you think to have it come out of the detents.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by acascianelli

I know I'm nearing the upper limit of what my truck or any other 1/2 ton truck should be towing, but I feel that it's doing a good job as it is.

I've looked at all the numbers, and I'm still within the limits of my maximum payload.

There are a number of things I've been considering to try to make it a little better when towing, and I'm just going down the list according to cost evaluate what would help.


1) Airbags or Helper Springs
2) Better Shocks

3) Better Tires
4) Hensley / ProPride
5) Bigger Truck (SuperDuty)

#4 would be tough to swallow, and #5 is not an option at the moment.

I think you'll get the most benefit for your money improving the rear suspension. I added a Roadmaster Active Suspension, LR-E LT tires and Bilstein shocks. All are helpful, in the order listed. The RAS improved the ride significantly even when not towing.

I'd install a RAS or Sumo Springs and a rear sway bar, not air bags. Among other reasons, the air bags require adjustment when towing which the others don't. Install and you're done. I've never had airbags but get the impression their benefits are more cosmetic than functional. (Others may disagree but I won't participate in an argument.)

You don't have to pay retail for a Propride. Used hitches are available, which is how I got mine. The only issue with buying used is the weight, which makes shipping unreasonable. Look around nearby. When searching, consider that a Hensley Arrow is not field-adjustable.

The Propride you find doesn't have to match your needs exactly with regard to receiver size (2" vs 2.5") or spring bars. You can swap those with other owners. The one I bought had 1400# bars and a 2.5" receiver. I swapped with other owners to get a 2" receiver and 1000# bars.

[The Evil Twin]

Ditch the OEM shocks (likely toast anyway at their age and assumed miles)
Get real truck tires. E rated LTs will harsh your ride unloaded but the factory P tires are not really suitable to tow. They roll too much.
Air bags *could* help. Depending on what induces the sway. If your rig sags too much it puts the effective caster angle too high. Think of a chopper style motorcycle. There are air bags that inflate each bag separately. That's what you would need. Bags tied together will just transfer air between them as you sway.
First thing would be to make sure you are loaded right. Get enough weight transferred to the front with the spring bars you might be OK if everything is level. After that, explore your options. Honestly, doing anything but shocks and tires before that is a waste. The bags or a PP/ Hensley will not solve the issue. Just mask it.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by acascianelli

I know I'm nearing the upper limit of what my truck or any other 1/2 ton truck should be towing, but I feel that it's doing a good job as it is.

I've looked at all the numbers, and I'm still within the limits of my maximum payload. ...

Have you actually weighed the combination at a CAT scale? I pull a Mini-Lite 2507S with a 780# tongue weight, using an F150 Lariat SuperCrew MaxTow with 5.5' bed. Scale weights show I'm close but just below all weight limits on the truck and trailer. Unless yours is a stripped-down XL, I'd be surprised if your trailer doesn't exceed RAWR or payload.

I would personally not pull a trailer that long with an F150. I don't want a SuperDuty and won't ever buy a trailer that requires one, but I think your UltraLite does.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by The Evil Twin

… a PP/ Hensley will not solve the issue. Just mask it.

I have a 3P and like it but I don't think they're a solution to all of life's problems. That said, if it distributes weight appropriately, controls sway and the truck handles comfortably, how is that masking a problem?

[SVTodd]

Originally Posted by The Evil Twin

a PP/ Hensley will not solve the issue. Just mask it.

You obviously don't know how a PP/Hensley works. It is impossible for forces input from the trailer to cause the hitch to rotate. Only forces initiated from the truck can cause rotation at the hitch. if the hitch can't rotate you can't have sway. A PP/Hensely behaves exactly like a 5th wheel projecting the pivot point up near the rear axle of the TV.

A PP/Hensley will NOT solve payload or GCVWR issues.

[Riccochet]

When I had a 1/2 ton I installed Helwig rear sway bar and AirLift 1000 helper bags on the truck. They helped a ton with keeping the truck planted and reduced bounce. I also had a ProPride hitch. We get a metric ton of wind where I'm at. Even with those mods and WDH that trailer would still move that 1/2 ton around a lot more than I liked.

Ultimately I replaced the 1/2 ton with a 3/4 ton and couldn't be happier now. Sometimes you're chasing an issue that can't be solved regardless of how much money you throw at the truck. A bigger truck makes life less complicated. Sold the ProPride and bought an Andersen for ease of hook up / disconnect. Tows like a dream now.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by rsdata

Most ton trucks come with P rated passenger tires for a sweet cush ride...

You are correct about the P-rated tires however the ones installed on trucks are usually Extra Load tires (XL). They carry all the load the truck is rated for and to control sway they can be inflated to usually 44 psi vs the Standard Load P-metric tires which are Standard Load rated which usually have a max inflation pressure of 35-35 psi.

No need to run out and buy new tires just because they are P-metric XL tires. Inflate to the max on the sidewall and they'll perform just fine as long as the trailer being towed isn't over the weight limit for the truck and a good hitch is used.

Just an example, the tires on my TV (OEM and replacements) are rated for 2756 lbs each.or 5512 lbs total on each axle. Axles themselves are only rated for 3500# front andd 3850# rear. Tires are nowhere overloaded and the sidewalls are stiffened by inflating to max pressure. I see no benefit on my truck to change to LT tires. If I needed a higher load range, perhaps.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

… No need to run out and buy new tires just because they are P-metric XL tires. Inflate to the max on the sidewall and they'll perform just fine as long as the trailer being towed isn't over the weight limit for the truck and a good hitch is used.

… I see no benefit on my truck to change to LT tires. If I needed a higher load range, perhaps.

I got my AT KO3s for the tread as much as for the stiffer sidewalls. I've been places where my regular road tires were slipping to the point I almost couldn't get my trailer out. I have only RWD and hope the combination of locking differential and knobby tires are enough to prevent that in the future.

[rsdata]

ou are correct about the P-rated tires however the ones installed on trucks are usually Extra Load tires (XL).

so please give me an example of a P-rated XL tire that comes OEM on a 1500 truck...

this is my yellow sticker... where would it indicate XL on here?

I value your expertise and hopefully I can learn something about this...

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by rsdata

so please give me an example of a P-rated XL tire that comes OEM on a 1500 truck...

My 2016 F150 Lariat had Michelin P-rated XL OEM tires. The recommended pressure is 36 pounds with max pressure being 44 pounds. The XL description was on the tire itself.

[rsdata]

SO I find this explanation on the net...

If you don’t see a Load Range or Ply Rating, you might find the letters P (passenger rated, which is 4-ply rated or lower), LT (light truck, which is 6-ply rated or higher), or XL (extra load is typically 4-ply rated with a higher-than-standard Load Index) stamped on the tires.

SO how does an XL tire with a lower ply rating then an LT tire give the same "roll" characteristics than an LT tire?

as I see it a P-rate XL tire only supports a higher load at a higher pressure... not the same as using a stiffer sidewall higher ply rated tire for increasing towing stability...

maybe I'm just dense, cause it makes no sense to me that P-rated XL truck tire is equivalent to an LT-rated tire...

my last two three tow vehicles have all benefited from stiffer E or LT rated tires while towing... giving greater stability on cornering and helped to eliminate sway...

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by rsdata

so please give me an example of a P-rated XL tire that comes OEM on a 1500 truck...

this is my yellow sticker... where would it indicate XL on here?

I value your expertise and hopefully I can learn something about this...

If you look at the inflation pressures you'll see that an XL is required. A SL tire maxes it's inflation pressure at 35 psi.

XL types max at 41 to 44 psi, depending on mfr. I've sern both.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by rsdata

SO I find this explanation on the net...



SO how does an XL tire with a lower ply rating then an LT tire give the same "roll" characteristics than an LT tire?

as I see it a P-rate XL tire only supports a higher load at a higher pressure... not the same as using a stiffer sidewall higher ply rated tire for increasing towing stability...

maybe I'm just dense, cause it makes no sense to me that P-rated XL truck tire is equivalent to an LT-rated tire...

my last two three tow vehicles have all benefited from stiffer E or LT rated tires while towing... giving greater stability on cornering and helped to eliminate sway...

Higher pressures reduce sidewall flex. P-metric XL tires perform well within their design and load carrying parameters.

LT type tires are used when greater load ranges are needed.

There's no prohibition against using a higher load range tire but since it won't increase load capacity of the axle it's not necessary to replace OE tires. Just inflate them fully.

I personally don't care for LT's on lighter trucks. Unless you want to pay through the wazoo for the premium brands many LT tires roll like they're square and often yield poor mileage.

As always, ymmv.

[phillyg]

Air bags allow you to level the truck if you're towing, but I doubt they affect sway one way or the other. Stiffer and properly aired tires can reduce sway a bit.

[rsdata]

I personally don't care for LT's on lighter trucks. Unless you want to pay through the wazoo for the premium brands many LT tires roll like they're square and often yield poor mileage.

As always, ymmv.

I upgraded from the stock P-rated Goodyear SR-A OEM tires on my 2014 RAM 1500 in 2016 after 32,000 miles... they were nearly wore out. As I posted earlier the yellow tag said to air to 39#. I don't recall seeing anything about XL molded into the tires or the MAX inflation pressure. I am a stickler about putting the best rubber I can afford between your ride and the road.

I upgraded to the premium Michelin Defender LTX tire... aired to 41#. There is still another (Michelin LTX A/T 2, priced at $25/tire above that). I love this Defender LTX tire... quiet, sure-footed and long lasting. They are NOT harsh riding and I get good mileage also. I currently have just over 71,000 miles on them and expect to get another 5K before I replace them in the fall. The tire deal at Costco on Michelins made them well worth the price I paid 5 years ago. Price included every 5K rotate and balance and road hazard insurance, which I used once on one tire.

I still wonder how airing up a P-rated XL tire a few more pounds makes a difference in sidewall flex... how is that the same as increasing a load range ply rating to an LT tire for a stiffer tire with less sidewall flex?...

I have no sway at all, but I consistently load tongue heavy ( which I think is a big factor in sway) ... my trailer maxxes out at 4800# gross and 23 feet max, so pretty small in the bigger scheme of things.

[ARhappycamper]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

I got my AT KO3s for the tread as much as for the stiffer sidewalls. I've been places where my regular road tires were slipping to the point I almost couldn't get my trailer out. I have only RWD and hope the combination of locking differential and knobby tires are enough to prevent that in the future.

That locker works great in a straight line but the surface better be real gooey and slippery if turning with the axles locked !

[ARhappycamper]

Originally Posted by rsdata

SO I find this explanation on the net...



SO how does an XL tire with a lower ply rating then an LT tire give the same "roll" characteristics than an LT tire?

as I see it a P-rate XL tire only supports a higher load at a higher pressure... not the same as using a stiffer sidewall higher ply rated tire for increasing towing stability...

maybe I'm just dense, cause it makes no sense to me that P-rated XL truck tire is equivalent to an LT-rated tire...

my last two three tow vehicles have all benefited from stiffer E or LT rated tires while towing... giving greater stability on cornering and helped to eliminate sway...

You are absolutely correct !

[Bhrava]

A lot of good suggestions, BUT, first you need to find the ROOT of the problem before throwing items at it.

First, LT tires, Do you have 20's on the truck? If so, skip that suggestion, the low profiles already have stiff enough sidewalls, and you won't see much of an improvement, been there, done that. If 18's, then helpful, but may not solve the issue. I had a 2016 with 18" LT tires and also have a set of 20" tires, and no noticeable difference towing other than harsher ride with 18's when empty.

Now, here is what you(the OP) needs to do. Load up the truck and trailer trip ready, haed over to a cat scale with a full tank and all passengers. Take three trips across the pads making sure each axle is on it's own pad, trailer axles on one. First, fully hitched, second, weight bars removed, third truck alone with the weight bars at the tailgate in the bed.

If your front axle weight has not been returned to the unhitched weight, or within at least 50 pounds, that's a cause for sway. When properly set up, most front axles weight returned and at least 50% of what was moved forward, also moved to the trailer axels, that should prevent sway.

If already at those numbers, figure the tongue weight of the trailer, including the weight of the hitch with the bars. Also if you have ANYTHING behind the rear axle in the bed, you must include that in the figures. Now subtract that weight from the weight of the spring bar. If the total weight is greater than the spring bar, then you need to upscale the bars, another cause of sway. For Anti Sway to work in a WDH the tongue weight needs to be at least 80% of the spring bar weight, for 1000 pound bars, 800 pounds of TW is needed. If the bars are too light, you can tension all the way and still not transfer enough weight for the sway control.

If you did all this and the numbers all add up and you still have sway, then if you have payload available in the truck, move some stuff forward in the trailer to get more weight on it, you may be tail heavy and not realize it.

For enhanced handling,

Instead of airbags, put a set of Timbrens, or Sumo on instead, they will help with sway, where bags wont, and are 100% consistent on every hookup, where you can chase the setup with airbags every time. You should do this regardless, they make towing more comfortable, they are inexpensive, and really easy to install, just two bolts. When empty, make sure they are not touching the axle or you will feel every crack in the road.

[mgg]

Towed a 28ft TT with stock F150 (tow package) - very near GVWR - would never do that without a Propride hitch. It made a world of difference.
mgg

Originally Posted by acascianelli

I have a 2018 F150 SuperCab/5.5ft bed/3.5L/Max Tow, with a Husky CenterLine TS pulling a Rockwood Ultralite 2706WS.


I've been told that putting airbags on my rear suspension will help with sway. I'm having a difficult time understand how that is possible. I figure the only way to significantly reduce sway is either with a heavier truck or Hensley/ProPride type hitch.