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09-21-2014, 09:30 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroad
Yes they are on my trailer brackets, and no issues at all with the L-pins that hold the WD bars onto the brackets. They just slip on from the bottom and drop onto the L portion.
Factory did say however, that you need the new style L-pin that has the flip down spring loaded wire (snap L-pin). The older style L-pin that used cotter pins won't work with the bracket jackets.
We'll be camping again this weekend, and I'll upload some pics and also report on noise reduction and any noticeable effect on sway reduction.
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When I bought my jackets this past spring it was the opposite in that the jackets could only be used with the old style L-pin and not the newer snap L-pin. At the time the factory said they were tryingto come up with something that would work with both but weren't sure if/when they would have something.
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09-21-2014, 02:39 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 357
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Here are the new style snap-L pins and the new jackets. They just slip on from the bottom.
They do reduce noise but not eliminate it. No noticeable difference in sway control at all.
I would recommend them.
__________________
2017 Open Range - Light 297RLS, BX1 Gooseneck
2014 Ram 2500 4x4 CCSB 6.7L 68RFE
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09-21-2014, 06:23 PM
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#43
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Citrus County, Fl.
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hernando, Fl
Posts: 2,368
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Thanks for posting your review and pics. I will order a set in the morning. We are heading out again on 3 weeks
__________________
2016 Forester 3011DS
2017 Toyota Corolla SE toad
PREVIOUS: 2015 Flagstaff 832IKBS
99 Terry 31G
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09-22-2014, 01:21 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 643
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Those jackets look identical to what I was sent for the older L pin.
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09-22-2014, 01:37 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 357
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Not sure what they changed, but their factory support made sure to ask if I had the new snap-L pins so they could ship the correct jackets.
__________________
2017 Open Range - Light 297RLS, BX1 Gooseneck
2014 Ram 2500 4x4 CCSB 6.7L 68RFE
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09-22-2014, 01:53 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroad
Here are the new style snap-L pins and the new jackets. They just slip on from the bottom.
They do reduce noise but not eliminate it. No noticeable difference in sway control at all.
I would recommend them.
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I think these jackets should have been L shaped. That would eliminate metal on metal on the side, also.
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09-22-2014, 02:12 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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Those jackets are different than the originals that I have. It looks like they narrowed the "fork" end, so that the wireform can fit around it. It other words, the width shown where the spring bar rests used to extend all the way out to the end where the wireform is. Now, they have trimmed/narrowed that area.
My current jackets would not work. But with these pictures, perhaps I could take a dremel tool to my jackets, and make them work. The area where the spring bars actually rest remain unchanged, and well-supported.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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09-23-2014, 09:37 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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PS - Sorry for the thread hijack...
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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09-23-2014, 09:48 AM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman
PS - Sorry for the thread hijack...
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Ha, No sweat, it is the Internet Install thread starting now anyway . . .
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09-28-2014, 07:47 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 183
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So I have a question for those that own the equalizer hitch. While the tension bars arr in place are you able to fully release the latch for the hitch ball? I'm not saying to disconnect the hitch but simply pull the this ball release from underneath the hitch ball as if you were going to lift the trailer off the hitch ball and then re engage the hitch ball latch.
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09-28-2014, 09:13 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 183
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I have an andersen hitch also and i'm trying to help the argument its a great hitch. just have a hunch after hooking up my trailer yesterday, but need replies back to either prove or disprove my theory, btw great write up, i had to watch a few videos before i installed mine
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09-29-2014, 05:07 PM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jawga
So I have a question for those that own the equalizer hitch. While the tension bars arr in place are you able to fully release the latch for the hitch ball? I'm not saying to disconnect the hitch but simply pull the this ball release from underneath the hitch ball as if you were going to lift the trailer off the hitch ball and then re engage the hitch ball latch.
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I'm not sure I understand the question....
Why would you want to release the latch with the bars loaded? The bars are the last thing to install, and the first to remove. When the bars are loaded, the ball and latch are also under some load. You want the ball and tongue to stay attached while you raise the tongue and hitch (normally with the tongue jack) to install/remove the bars with no load on them.
The first try after arriving home from the dealer, I had to watch a couple of utube videos before I fully understood the bar installation/removal process, as I was new to WDH hitches.
just my experiences, yours may differ
Fred W
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