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03-10-2020, 11:30 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 11
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Another WDH question (hold the sway)
I have read through quite a few posts about this but have not found a suitable answer yet, so guess I’ll make a new post here - I am questioning hitch types and what might be needed, if anything, for my situation, which is this...
I have a small TT (18.5 ft. 3800 lbs.) but a pretty heavy tongue weight (600) mostly because of a battery bank and 2 large propane tanks. I tow with a 2017 Tacoma.
I feel like almost all of the posts I have read about weight distribution, the folks responding keep bringing up sway control and how important that is, but my TT rides fantastic, as is, with no WDH or sway control. The ONLY thing that I worry about is the back end of the TV drops 2.5” when I hook up. Again... I don’t want sway control because it doesn’t need it, and I am concerned that the WDH will:
1) Be expensive.
2) Be a hassle
3) Make it difficult to back up or make tight turns to get out of the funky situations I often put myself in while finding Boondocking spots which is pretty much the only kind of camping I do.
Mostly just worried that I’m doing damage to the TV by dropping that far on the back end. I don’t really put anything in the bed while towing, so it’s pretty much just that weight to worry about. Is it really any different than just having a bunch of stuff in the bed of the truck?
Thoughts?... Go!
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03-10-2020, 11:55 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 98
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A set of timbrens or airbags if you off-road would probably be best in this situation. That way you can adjust the amount of pressure for each situation like hauling stuff without the trailer. The Firestone Ride-Rites are fairly easy to install in most cases. Just don't splice both airlines together if you off-road due to all the air rushing to lightest bag in an off camber situation causing the truck to possibly want to flip.
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03-11-2020, 12:08 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 11
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Thanks mxtreme30.
I had another guy suggest those too, but then I, of course, had to go online and read all the negatives about them. Also saw this video: https://youtu.be/XBZu39pQ8Gg
which seems to make the air bags seem not too helpful. Have you had good success with them?
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03-11-2020, 12:08 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: KS
Posts: 2,369
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1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Not really unless you get a cheap friction bar. Many can support backing or tight angles without detatching. Frictiin sway bars cannot.
Timbrens or roadmaster active suspension would likely resolve your problem. Airbags seems extreme but likely costs the same.
What tongue weight can your TV reciever take? My F150 maxed at 500lbs without a WDH so I am suprised 600 has not been an issue for you.
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03-11-2020, 12:14 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 11
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Toyota say 640 lbs max. That’s another reason I worry.
But then I worry about a bunch of dumb stuff...
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03-11-2020, 06:37 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Near Pittsburgh Pa
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxtreme30
A set of timbrens or airbags if you off-road would probably be best in this situation. That way you can adjust the amount of pressure for each situation like hauling stuff without the trailer. The Firestone Ride-Rites are fairly easy to install in most cases. Just don't splice both airlines together if you off-road due to all the air rushing to lightest bag in an off camber situation causing the truck to possibly want to flip.
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All listed above are not nearly as good of an idea as a cheap WDH from FB Market or Craigslist. A WDH removes rear axle weight, and replaces front axle weight.
Air bags were proven to to lift the rear, increase load to rear axle and reduce load to front axle. This is all bad.
Obviously, these are my local Pittsburgh Area, not your area... but It shows that for a couple hundred you can be set up and done with the best option.
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tr...080801922.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tr...090045119.html
I bought a near $1,000 Equalizer WDH/Sway system for $350 on Facebook Market last year. Good deal!
__________________
2019 Ram Bighorn, CC/SB 2500 4x4 6.4L/8 Speed, Max Tow 14,460 lb/2,940 lb payload.
2019 F-150 King Ranch 3.5 Eco, 12,800 lb/1,546 payload.
2020 Coachmen Apex UL 289TBSS
2019 Quality Trailers 16'x7' 7K GVWR Utility Trailer
2019 IronBull 22'x102" 14K GVWR Equipment Trailer
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03-11-2020, 06:48 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riblet
I have read through quite a few posts about this but have not found a suitable answer yet, so guess I’ll make a new post here - I am questioning hitch types and what might be needed, if anything, for my situation, which is this...
I have a small TT (18.5 ft. 3800 lbs.) but a pretty heavy tongue weight (600) mostly because of a battery bank and 2 large propane tanks. I tow with a 2017 Tacoma.
I feel like almost all of the posts I have read about weight distribution, the folks responding keep bringing up sway control and how important that is, but my TT rides fantastic, as is, with no WDH or sway control. The ONLY thing that I worry about is the back end of the TV drops 2.5” when I hook up. Again... I don’t want sway control because it doesn’t need it, and I am concerned that the WDH will:
1) Be expensive.
2) Be a hassle
3) Make it difficult to back up or make tight turns to get out of the funky situations I often put myself in while finding Boondocking spots which is pretty much the only kind of camping I do.
Mostly just worried that I’m doing damage to the TV by dropping that far on the back end. I don’t really put anything in the bed while towing, so it’s pretty much just that weight to worry about. Is it really any different than just having a bunch of stuff in the bed of the truck?
Thoughts?... Go!
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I’m no towing Novice by any means. My advice is to first get to a cat scale, with TV and camper, check your weights, then decide on what you may need. Either way, good luck in finding a solution that eases your mind.
__________________
I wished I’d gone camping sooner in life.
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03-11-2020, 06:59 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 712
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If you are within all of your weights (tongue, payload, axle, etc.) When you are loaded for camping and do not mind a bit of squatting in the rear you are fine. Even if you are right at the limit the system is designed to handle that weight. If getting a WDH when you are within limits makes you feel better, go ahead. But, if within limits, don't feel like you have to.
BTW, not all WDH are a PITA.
__________________
Hobienick
2022 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH
2020 Rockwood Roo 19 (Sold Jul 2022)
2012 F150 SuperCrew Ecoboost
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03-11-2020, 07:17 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Your Question,"Is it really any different than having a bunch of stuff/weight in the bed? Answer,Yes truck with weight that drops the rear by Itself is one thing ,Now attach a 25-30 foot trailer also and your in for a Fun Drive down the road! You are talking the same money for a used hitch with Both W/D and S/C you need one for sure so get the one with Both,your choice on using the S/C! Youroo!!
__________________
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03-11-2020, 08:00 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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To me, the issue/concern here is not whether the ~600 lbs TW will damage something on the truck. If my quick math is right, and estimates for your wheelbase, etc...600 lbs of TW could be around 850 lbs on the rear axle. That is certainly within your axle rating (yes?).
The problem is that the weight is about 4ft behind the rear axle. If 600 lbs TW adds 850 lbs (or whatever) on the rear axle, that extra 250 lbs has to come from somewhere. It comes off of the front wheels, causing reduced stability in steering and braking ability.
This is what some do not understand. The main purpose for a WDH is not to level out the truck, although that is a side-benefit. The main purpose of a WDH is to return all lost weight back to the front axle. Timbrens and helper springs will help you with true payload (in the bed), or as an addition to a WDH. But they should never be used alone, to address tongue weight.
Even most half-ton truck recommend or require using a WDH when you exceed 500 lbs TW (it's required for any Ford vehicle, right in their published towing guide). Not because the truck can't handle 500 lbs, but because of the potential instability of applying 500 lbs behind the bumper.
Get yourself a WDH. And if buying new, you might as well get 1 of the many good units available with integrated sway control.
Regarding having to disengage when backing, this is not required for any units. But for you, frequently doing extreme jackknifing in the back-woods, you may want to remove the bars once at the site, before jackknifing. Backing up will not damage a system. But from experience, if you are in a significant jackknife when you try to unhitch, 1 bar will be heavily loaded, and the other very lightly loaded. This can make the system difficult to disengage, and require lifting the tongue jack very high to remove that tight bar. So, just remove the bars while you are straight (you have to remove them anyway), then back into your desired location, before final unhitch.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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03-11-2020, 09:28 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the response! And from most of the other responses as well, it does seem wise for me to get the stupid WDH. Now...
What is the specific “not all WDH are a PITA”? Brands/models to check out?
Thanks again for all the help folks!
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03-11-2020, 10:24 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Near Pittsburgh Pa
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riblet
Thanks for the response! And from most of the other responses as well, it does seem wise for me to get the stupid WDH. Now...
What is the specific “not all WDH are a PITA”? Brands/models to check out?
Thanks again for all the help folks!
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The Equalizer is a good solid model that is a 4 point system of control, it's been around for decades and just plain works. It is easy to deploy and easy to remove.... but the head is a large and heavy casting of around 50-60 lbs, so if you are older or with health/physical limitations there may be valid reason to not use this. It is middle of the pack in the price range at around $800-$1000 new, you can spend less and you can spend 3 times more. But if you find a used Equalizer like I did, it will be the very highest value (performance vs cost) that you could ever get. Even at the new price, it's a lot cheaper than what many consider the best of the best... The ProPride or the Hensley.
https://hensleymfg.com/
https://www.propridehitch.com/
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/
I've not heard the best reviews on the Husky Centerline.... because of that I crossed that off of my list of candidates as I was "shopping" the used market.
__________________
2019 Ram Bighorn, CC/SB 2500 4x4 6.4L/8 Speed, Max Tow 14,460 lb/2,940 lb payload.
2019 F-150 King Ranch 3.5 Eco, 12,800 lb/1,546 payload.
2020 Coachmen Apex UL 289TBSS
2019 Quality Trailers 16'x7' 7K GVWR Utility Trailer
2019 IronBull 22'x102" 14K GVWR Equipment Trailer
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03-11-2020, 11:17 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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I use the Equilizer E4. I even use it towing my 24' boat which only has around 400# of TW. It definitely helps the steering and gets rid of the little bit of steering wander that the tongue weigh adds.
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03-11-2020, 12:32 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: KS
Posts: 2,369
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I consider them a pain because you have to connect the ball, jack up, install or tighten bars (depending on the hitch), lower again and then you are off. I know of no WDH that bypasses this process with or without sway control. Good luck on your 1. and 2....3 is easy.
I suggest going to etrailer and run through their wizard with the options you want. Their reviews are pretty good and you can watch video on the install process for each hitch so you know what you are getting into. Will get you started. There are other options as well but that will eliminate many of them for you. Then you can ask specific questions about a hitch after you have made some of your own choices. Someone here likely has what you are looking at unless you are the guy who just built his own fifth wheel hitch.
Most popular hitches I see people talk about here all have sway control built in.
the equalizer 4pt is most common.
I had a blueox swaypro and liked it.
I replaced with a propride P3 which I would reccomend to anyone if you can stomach the price.
Since you are stable enough not sure if you feel you would need them but I would suggest a sway integrated WDH if you are getting a WDH already. No additional hassle to add sway control at hook up usually and you may want it for your next trailer. There are price differences based on the model you choose though and one less thing to worry about.
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03-11-2020, 12:40 PM
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#15
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waybeck2018
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry0071
The Equalizer is a good solid model that is a 4 point system of control, it's been around for decades and just plain works. It is easy to deploy and easy to remove.... but the head is a large and heavy casting of around 50-60 lbs, so if you are older or with health/physical limitations there may be valid reason to not use this. It is middle of the pack in the price range at around $800-$1000 new, you can spend less and you can spend 3 times more. But if you find a used Equalizer like I did, it will be the very highest value (performance vs cost) that you could ever get. Even at the new price, it's a lot cheaper than what many consider the best of the best... The ProPride or the Hensley.
https://hensleymfg.com/
https://www.propridehitch.com/
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/
I've not heard the best reviews on the Husky Centerline.... because of that I crossed that off of my list of candidates as I was "shopping" the used market.
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Totally agree with Larry. Other than the hitch weight the Equalizer is tops in my book. Glad my grandson is big enough now to install the hitch head!! And he asks to do it to help. But, when he is not with us I can still handle the
weight and install it myself.
__________________
2012 F-250, 6.7 Super Duty Powerstroke; 2019 291 BR Primetime Tracer,
Days camped in 2018-61
Looking Forward to Completing This Map Soon !
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03-11-2020, 12:58 PM
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#16
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Canadian Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,233
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I had a 2008 Tacoma TRD. Its a great off road vehicle but not so great as an RV tow vehicle. The newer models may be much better but I'd suggest using a weight distribution hitch and sway control any time you're towing more than 3500# unless you have a 3/4 ton or larger truck.
I also recommend the Equal-i-zer brand hitch. I used them with our Roo hybrid (5200# loaded) and regular TT (7300# loaded).
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/
For your trailer, you can get by with the 600/6,000# hitch. If you think you might go bigger in the future then go with the 1000/10,000# hitch. I used the 1000/10,000# Equal-i-zer with our Roo.
Don't forget that if the rear end is dropping 2.5" then your headlights may be pointing into the eyes of oncoming drivers.
__________________
2023 Rockwood Signature 8262RBS
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed
2019 Rockwood Signature 8290BS (2019 - 2022)
2011 Rockwood Signature 8293SS (2015 - 2018)
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
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03-11-2020, 01:11 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Hills of Northwestern PA
Posts: 2,284
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If you are comfortable towing with your current setup, I'd look at the sumo super springs. Similar to the Timbrens but so far my research indicates the Timbrins make for a stiffer ride. The supersprings are more graduated acting when they compress.
__________________
2019 Cherokee Wolf Pup 16BHS flipped axle, 5K springs, 400AH LiFePO4, 3K inverter, 200W CIGS solar
2019 Ford F-150 S-Crew 5.5 bed V8 w/tow package, ITBC, Tow Mirrors, 3.55, SumoSprings, 7000# GVWR, 1990#CC
Husky Centerline TS WDH 400-600# spring bars
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03-11-2020, 01:32 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,371
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Fix
Timber's are a quick, no maintenance solution to eliminated the "squat". Has no effect on ride when not towing. I ran them on my Tundra. After adding other items, this was the best fix. Takes about 45 minutes to install. Good solutionl, as long as you are not over max cargo or hitch weight.
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03-11-2020, 01:32 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,371
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OOPS
Timbrens
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03-11-2020, 01:33 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riblet
Thanks for the response! And from most of the other responses as well, it does seem wise for me to get the stupid WDH. Now...
What is the specific “not all WDH are a PITA”? Brands/models to check out?
Thanks again for all the help folks!
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I just got an Andersen WDH for my F150 and Roo 19 because I am just over my non-WDH tongue weight. It is very easy to attach, no spring arms, backs nicely, no squealing and groaning when turning, no grease anywhere in the system, and the whole assembly is about 60 lbs for my setup. They are fairly reasonably priced new compared to other better quality WDH's. The initial setup took just under 2 hours and after that it takes about 2 minutes to connect it using only one pin. Half of the setup stays on the trailer and the hitch can be used without the WDH portion connected.
__________________
Hobienick
2022 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH
2020 Rockwood Roo 19 (Sold Jul 2022)
2012 F150 SuperCrew Ecoboost
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