ATF cooler Tru Cool LPD47391 install?

[Jphanson]

So I’ve watched a few DIY YouTube videos to get a grasp on what to expect on removing the small and ineffective factory ATF cooler with a better one, narrowed it down to a Tru Cool LPD47391. Some installs I see with fittings facing down, but one had them facing up and gives reasoning, here’s a link if interested.

https://youtu.be/2yKvUBoD_T8

He claims it has to do with it not being a bleeding type system, so if fittings are down facing then the fluid doesn’t make it to upper half of unit, having them facing upwards makes it more effective using all of cooling ability of it having tranny fluid flowing through all of it.

Anyone know if he’s right? I’ve looked at Tru Cools website, can’t really find anything definitive... Pictures of unit not installed are facing down, but graphic explaining its operation shows fittings up? In the FAQ it states they can be installed up, down, or sideways. Here’s company link

Tru-Cool Transmission and Engine Coolers

Here’s best price I could find for it, $125.99:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...LNG-47391.html

[007matman]

Sounds like a good price.

His comments about installing upside down make no sense. It's a closed loop system. There is physically no way for air to seep in there. If it does, you've got bigger problems going on there.

[007matman]

Don't over-think installation.

In my '10 Esky I just mounted the cooler to some aluminum "L" Stock and bolted that to the front radiator support.

For the connections, I was able to use one of the lines as-is and just purchase the adapters to convert to the GM snap fitting. On the other side (passenger) I cut the line behind the bumper and spun it around and just put in a splice to connect it back together. You'll need to cut the plastic bumper support to get the ability to run the lines over to the cooler (on both sides). Use some zip ties to secure the lines so they don't move around a lot (I could not use the OEM clip that secured the line any longer).

My tranny runs at about 145 under normal use on the interstate and up to maybe 165-175 when towing now. The highest temp I've seen since the upgrade is around 180.

I know that they say "there is no such thing as running too cool" but I'm still mildly concerned it won't get to the optimal temp (195) to check the fluid level and may end up installing the thermal bypass at some point just to make sure it's operating at what GM thinks is the best range for the tranny.

[Jphanson]

Originally Posted by 007matman

His comments about installing upside down make no sense. It's a closed loop system. There is physically no way for air to seep in there. If it does, you've got bigger problems going on there.

I was thinking same thing, except that there is air in the cooler until fluid pushes it out, but being a low pressure system will it push the fluid all the way to the top if fittings are down? According to Tru Cools info The first few lines right after fittings on it are bigger than rest to allow colder thicker fluid to flow until it warms up and gets thinner to go through the smaller ports.
Here’s the graphic from Tru Cools website, And here’s what it states
“Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is more viscous when it’s colder. Tru-Cool transmission and engine coolers enable that colder, thicker ATF to flow more efficiently through the two open bypass channels at the top of the system.
As operating temperatures increase, the ATF heats up and becomes thinner. The Tru-Cool system then directs the ATF through the core where it is cooled.”

[007matman]

Honestly, I've never had a problem and as stated earlier my system actually runs cooler than I'm 100% comfortable with. I don't have any reason to believe that there is air in there.

[A32Deuce]

There is not any air in the system once you start the engine. Its a pressurized system, so it will force out any air. Now if you are AR, then put the fittings up and fill by hand then connect the lines.