Backing up with sway bars on or off?

[Silver Lake]

The dealer we bought the trailer from hooked up the weight distribution hitch with the sway bars. The picture is not with everything hooked up, just to give an idea of the setup.

When I need to back this into a campsite, can I leave the sway bars connected or do I have to remove them?

[GXPWeasel1]

What you have posted in your picture above, does not have a sway bar. Those are the weight distribution bars. As far as those go, yes you can leave those hooked up when reversing into a spot. The only time I've ever had any issue is with a large incline into a spot, I needed to either remove my weight distribution bars, or use 4wd to get into my spot. I did both, so as not to risk bending my tongue or bars.

AS for the the actual anti-sway bars (with the brake pads in them) I always remove them once I enter the campground. They can be fine if you reverse with them on, but it's the tight turning most often associated with reversing into a spot that risk in bending the tongue, your sway bar, or both. I would get into a habit of removing any anti-sway bar once you get off the freeway or enter a campground. If you're not moving over 40mph, you don't need the anti-sway function anyway.

[grege]

That's the Equalizer E4. It does have 4 point sway control built in. No you do not need to remove the bars when backing up.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/

[jimmarako]

Originally Posted by GXPWeasel1

What you have posted in your picture above, does not have a sway bar. Those are the weight distribution bars. As far as those go, yes you can leave those hooked up when reversing into a spot. The only time I've ever had any issue is with a large incline into a spot, I needed to either remove my weight distribution bars, or use 4wd to get into my spot. I did both, so as not to risk bending my tongue or bars. y.

Those are combo weight bars and anti sway bars. Correct, they are not the typical friction brake material add on bars people with chain WDH need to use.

Generally these bars do not need to be removed to back in.

Jim M.

[Jimbo K.]

Your system looks similar in design to mine, a Husky Centerline TS. The bars are much easier to remove and replace if the trailer is in line with the truck, to the point where if the tongue is jacked high enough I don't usually need the lift tool. So if I anticipate ending up at an angle after backing into a tight spot, I'll remove them first. And pull out to straighten up before replacing them.

[GXPWeasel1]

Originally Posted by grege

That's the Equalizer E4. It does have 4 point sway control built in. No you do not need to remove the bars when backing up.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/

Oh, my bad. I wasn't aware those hitches functioned that way. It's obviously not what I have. Thanks for bringing that to my attention, and to the original poster.

[Moho81]

I have the exact same WDH. I have yet to find it necessary to remove the bars before backing into a spot. If set up properly you can jackknife the trailer and the bars will not come off the brackets.

The system does make some noise due to the metal on metal friction but the time and effort to remove them is not worth saving on the noise in my personal opinion.

Only time I think it might matter is backing up or down a steep grade where the truck and trailer would be at different angles when your parked but like I said I have yet to encounter that problem and I’ve had a couple of sites with a decent grade change.

[camper_Lucy]

Originally Posted by Silver Lake

The dealer we bought the trailer from hooked up the weight distribution hitch with the sway bars. The picture is not with everything hooked up, just to give an idea of the setup.

When I need to back this into a campsite, can I leave the sway bars connected or do I have to remove them?

As stated , with the 4 point system you leave them on.
From the MFG Q&A site: Can I back up with the Equal-i-zer hitch?
Yes, the Equal-i-zer hitch is designed to allow you to back up and take tight turns with the hitch hooked up. Just be sure the frame brackets are installed in the correct range on the trailer frame (27"-32" from the center of your coupler) so the arms have plenty of room (2"-3" after the bracket) to move during tight turns.


On another note, I really like this forum however as it has grown way to many members are providing incorrect and inaccurate information, it is becoming a bit like a general google search site, reader beware! Done with my vent.