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Old 05-07-2015, 01:37 PM   #1
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Backing With a WDH

Ok, newbie question: How does the distribution hitch affect backing the TT?
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Old 05-07-2015, 01:59 PM   #2
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LoBill, the WDH (weight distribution hitch) doesn't react differently when backing than towing. It spreads the hitch weight over the entire TV (tow vehicle) for better handling and braking. There are about a thousand WDH models out there and some have integral sway controllers, some rely on the venerable friction sway control system. With the friction system, you should release the pressure on the plates before starting any backing moves that will be sharp as they really don't like to be pushed or pulled a great deal; you can break the small ball hitch off of the trailer or TV if you don't. Some of the WDH with sway control built in recommend you also loosen their sway control mechanism before severe backing moves, some say it isn't needed. I have a TREKKER sway control about a year old, and the guy at the dealership said it wasn't necessary for mine. That said, they have already had to replace the hitch head because one of the sway control mechanisms quit working. I'll be loosening them before I back up at a campsite. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:03 AM   #3
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A friction sway controller does not know the difference between a turn in reverse, or a turn in forward direction. As long as the bar has not bottomed out in the friction housing, then the forces are the same (forward or reverse).

No need to loosen or remove a friction sway controller when backing up. Just know your limits to avoid bottoming out. It would take an EXTREME jackknife maneuver to bottom out the unit, and only then could damage occur. Likewise if you were moving forward, and went to full steering wheel lock.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:22 AM   #4
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I usually pop both of my friction sway bars off once I get to the campground. This way I can easily maneuver the camper through the campground without worrying about bottoming out the sway bar. It also keeps the loud creaking (especially when wet) to a minimum.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:30 AM   #5
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My thought on this, has always been to release them if I was going to put them into a jackknife situation, (that isn't possible just going forward). If the site I was backing into was angled such that it wouldn't jackknife, I left them on. I did always release the friction, and/or removed it completely.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:31 AM   #6
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What brand of WDH do you use? I have a BlueOx SwayPro and I do not need to remove anything for backing up.
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Old 05-08-2015, 09:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaMan View Post
My thought on this, has always been to release them if I was going to put them into a jackknife situation, (that isn't possible just going forward). If the site I was backing into was angled such that it wouldn't jackknife, I left them on. I did always release the friction, and/or removed it completely.
Ditto! And I don't want to have to keep getting out of the TV to see if they are close to bottoming out while backing, and then release them. I just release it when I stop at the campsite to be on the safe side and make the turn easier. Agreed they don't know the difference between forward and reverse, but they do know the difference between road sway and jackknife while backing! They react badly to jackknives.
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Old 05-08-2015, 09:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaMan View Post
My thought on this, has always been to release them if I was going to put them into a jackknife situation, (that isn't possible just going forward). If the site I was backing into was angled such that it wouldn't jackknife, I left them on. I did always release the friction, and/or removed it completely.
Keep in mind, if you are concerned about bottoming out the unit, then simply loosening (but leaving attached) does not help the situation. You can bottom it out just the same, whether tight or loose.
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Old 05-08-2015, 09:51 AM   #9
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There should be no reason to keep getting in and out to see.

You should be able to see from the rub marks on the inner bar, when the bar is fully bottomed. Just have someone watch the first time, and tell you when you get to that point. Then, look in your sideview mirror, sighting along the tow vehicle. Pick a point on the camper (a reflector, water fill cap, etc). Next time you have to back into a tight spot, you won't need a spotter. When you see the side of the TV lined up with that spot on the camper, you simply don't go any further.

...or just remove the thing! I'm not arguing what is the best method. Just pointing out that it's not required.
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:15 AM   #10
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Yes sir, agreed. My preference was (when I had friction sway controllers in the past) was to loosen and disconnect if the campsite was going to require tight turns. Beside that, they creaked and groaned so much, I thought something was amiss. Current setup ,Trekker EAZ-LIFT, doesn't require anything be done and can't be bottomed out, but I loosen it just the same. Everyone does this slightly different depending on what they prefer and what their equipment limits are.
As for marking the TT with a maximum deflection point, mine rig is equipped with a very loud voice from the DW over the walkie saying "STOP!". It's automatic!
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:16 AM   #11
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My question is similar. How do I know when I have the friction bars tight enough. My wife cringes when she hears the popping noise on tight turns and I do release the friction on backing into sites.


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Old 05-08-2015, 10:24 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rockwoodjoe View Post
My question is similar. How do I know when I have the friction bars tight enough. My wife cringes when she hears the popping noise on tight turns and I do release the friction on backing into sites.


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Joe, trial and error really. Drive for a while and if the TT is still swinging hard when a truck passes you, stop, get out and tighten it a bit more. You will soon find you will know when it is "Just right" and be able to do it close every time you hook up. Trailers still will sway some, but it shouldn't be a lot, and you should not feel like you might lose control if it adjusted correctly. Some use two sway bars per their comments. There are also conditions where you have a strong cross-wind and two-lane traffic...it isn't going to always be easy and the trailer will sway more than you like or are comfortable with; find a nice campground until the wind dies down if it is bad.
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Old 05-08-2015, 11:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoBill View Post
Ok, newbie question: How does the distribution hitch affect backing the TT?
Depends on which brand/model of WDH that you have.
Newer tech WDH with integrated sway control can be backed up without unhooking anything.
Old tech WDH with add on friction anti-sway bar usually requires unhooking the bar/bars to back up.
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Old 05-08-2015, 12:31 PM   #14
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Friction sway controllers:
Most people see the handle, and think that this is the adjustment tool. It's not. That is the on/off handle. There is an adjustment bolt 2-3 inches from the handle, which is for adjustments.

The reason for this is so you can adjust the thing for proper performance. Then whenever you put the thing on, you simply apply the handle all the way and you're done.

So the method is (which was provided on the Reese unit I used to use):
1. Fully tighten the handle, until you feel the handle bottom out on the housing. You should feel it stop cleanly. If you can't, loosen the BOLT a 1/2-turn, until you can clearly feel the handle bottom out on the housing.
2. Now take a test drive on the expressway, in light traffic. Try some maneuvers to see if things are stable. My way of doing this is a quick flick of the wheel 1 way and back to center. Enough to move the trailer to 1 side, but not enough to move the truck out of your lane.
3. Did the trailer move to 1 side, then a bit to the other side, then back on center?
-If no, pull over and tighten the adjuster BOLT 1/4-turn. Test drive again.
-If yes, that's good, but it may be too tight. Pull over and loosen the BOLT 1/4-turn.

You want to find the point just where it's clearly controlling the sway to only 1 oscillation, and no more. Too tight, and you get excessive noise, and (theoretically) a light trailer could skid sideways in the turn in the rain (like an oversteer). Never actually heard of that happening, but it could, given a good-ole-boy towing a light trailer too fast in a bend.

Once adjusted properly, remove it by loosening the handle. The next time you install it, all you have to do is close the handle all the way, and you know it's good to go!
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:17 PM   #15
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Cool! Great information Brakeman
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