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06-16-2015, 09:50 AM
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#21
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodgers
I have to ask did nobody read the 2nd line in the post.
"NO FACTORY PREP" Must be the old rail type.
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Even without factory prep, the B&W leaves a completely flat bed- no rails.
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06-16-2015, 05:09 PM
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#22
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GB
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bonifay, FL, USA
Posts: 70
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Missed the "without" in the original post. The Pullrite Superglide with the Superrail kit will still leave you with a slick bed when removed.
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2015 Ram 2500 SLT 4x4 Cummins
2015 Wildwood 327RES
Pullrite Superglide 16k
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06-16-2015, 05:33 PM
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#23
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrown
On a short bed a slider is a must, so unless you want to be getting in and out of your truck to pin-slide-pin then an automatic slider is the way to go. Pullrite makes the best and they sell a rail kit that fits the Ram factory 5er prep. I've used one for years now and am very pleased.
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Unless you get a Rockwood or Flagstaff with the Reese Revolution Sidewinder Pinbox, then you don't need a slider.
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06-16-2015, 05:37 PM
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#24
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long Leaf Piners
...and our new fifth-talked into a new Reese 16K with a Revolution pinbox (eg Sidewinder) in between...and the pinbox portion just failed 3 weeks ago...
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What happened to the Sidewinder pinbox?
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06-16-2015, 06:09 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 176
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I had a Reese Slider for about 1 month. It got to be a problem for me and my wife to get it to slide. I changed our for a PullRite Super Slider. Best move I did. Still a learning curve to get it to release when unhooking from the truck, but it works! My truck by the way is a 2013 Ram 2500 MegaCab Diesel. It pulls the Cedar Creek 38CK with no problem. I also installed a 5th Airborne on the pin box which smooths out the ride.
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06-16-2015, 07:42 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 173
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Well, here is what happened....I am reposting a private message:
We were pulling with a Reese Revolution and $1500+ later, we are using a Pullrite Superglide. The Reese revolution system depends on two bolts that fasten into nuts that are welded inside the top of the pin box. This is all sealed. When in revolution mode, the movement comes from the pin box, rather than from the hitch. On our shakedown cruise this May, we pulled up to a lovely mountain RV campground, near Marion, NC. Prior to leaving, we noticed that the metal shim (part of the revolution system) was backing out. Knocked it back into place. Seemed smooth and normal traveling, until we began our steep and winding last 7 miles. Clunking noises. When unhitched, my husband went to tighten the two bolts. He discovered that the middle bolt was loose. The nut which is welded and enclosed in the pin box and secures the middle bolt had come loose/unattached. We were essentially functioning on one bolt. It was a miracle that we made it to the camping spot in one piece and alive to tell the tale. We could not move the rig. Got the new hitch and then a tech team came to our camp site and reconfigured the pin box to transport mode. We now are using our pin box in transport mode (fixed pin box) and we feel secure, with the Pullrite. We actually had a Pullrite on our previous fifth and it was a gem. This experience with the Reese Revolution really shook us up.
__________________
2014 8528 IKWS
Ford F-250 Diesel
Cricket the Cairn and Sally the Terrier Muppet Mix
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06-16-2015, 07:52 PM
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#27
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long Leaf Piners
Well, here is what happened....I am reposting a private message:
We were pulling with a Reese Revolution and $1500+ later, we are using a Pullrite Superglide. The Reese revolution system depends on two bolts that fasten into nuts that are welded inside the top of the pin box. This is all sealed. When in revolution mode, the movement comes from the pin box, rather than from the hitch. On our shakedown cruise this May, we pulled up to a lovely mountain RV campground, near Marion, NC. Prior to leaving, we noticed that the metal shim (part of the revolution system) was backing out. Knocked it back into place. Seemed smooth and normal traveling, until we began our steep and winding last 7 miles. Clunking noises. When unhitched, my husband went to tighten the two bolts. He discovered that the middle bolt was loose. The nut which is welded and enclosed in the pin box and secures the middle bolt had come loose/unattached. We were essentially functioning on one bolt. It was a miracle that we made it to the camping spot in one piece and alive to tell the tale. We could not move the rig. Got the new hitch and then a tech team came to our camp site and reconfigured the pin box to transport mode. We now are using our pin box in transport mode (fixed pin box) and we feel secure, with the Pullrite. We actually had a Pullrite on our previous fifth and it was a gem. This experience with the Reese Revolution really shook us up.
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That is the wedge you're talking about that came loose which is held by 2 bolts. That's why it is IMO necessary to get a custom wedge with only bolt holes and no slots like the factory wedge. I made mine and have over 40K miles on it and the bolts have never loosened.
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06-16-2015, 08:29 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 716
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To any who do NOT have the new style factory 5th wheel prep systems and may be considering a B&W Turnover w/Companion...be aware that B&W VERY STRONGLY states NOT to use a rotating pinbox (Revolution/Sidewinder) with their Companion Hitch. They are concerned for the hitch twisting in place due to additional forces from the non-standard pivot point.
Personally, I have an older B&W Companion in my SB GMC and LOVE it. I would probably have my Revolution Hitch unlocked if I wasn't using the B&W, but have yet to come even close to having the need. I wouldn't want the stress that turning that sharp would put on my trailers tires/axles anyway.
__________________
'04 GMC Sierra 2500HD, CCSB, D/A, MaxBrake, B&W Companion, Retrax Pro, AR Power Steps
2021 Solitude 310GK w/FBP
1969 Camaro RS/SS Convertible
Dad's old 1968 Empi Imp (recently recovered from under 21 years worth of boxes/dust)
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06-16-2015, 08:43 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 13
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B&W all the way. I will not waste money on another hitch. Easy to hook up camper and easy to remove from truck by yourself. 😊
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06-17-2015, 10:00 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 142
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This is my first time owning a 5th wheel but I went with a 18K Superglide. Love the ease of using it from day one. I didn't not want to deal with a manual slider so I just went with what I had done a lot of research on.
Pros: look very heavy duty, is actually very heavy duty, automatic cam adjust for turns as sharp and as fast as you can take them.
Cons: looks very heavy, is actually very heavy. Not a do-it-yourself removal for storing. I think that is my only complaint, although I only use my truck bed for towing so it hasn't been a real issue yet.
__________________
2015 Palomino Puma Unleashed 351-THSS 37' Toyhauler
2016 F-350 Platinum DRW 4x4 w/ Curt Q24 hitch and Air Lift rear air ride
"Just put that hammer down and give it hell" -Jerry Reed
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06-17-2015, 10:16 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 630
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I actually installed a Superglide in my fathers previous truck a year or two ago. I was impressed with the overall function of the hitch but I was NOT a fan of the fact you couldn't hitch at any angle. Many camp sites I go to (IE racetracks) I end up jack knifing my current trailer into the site. I also wasn't impressed with the amount of slop in the joints which allowed movement and created noise.
I feel like i'd like a manual slider more than an auto due to these issues.
I appreciate all the responses thus far!
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TV- 2015 Ram 2500 CCLB 6.7 Cummins 3.42 gears
Camper - 2015 Saber 322BHTS
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06-17-2015, 11:17 AM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 50
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B&W turnover ball and B&W 5th wheel companion.
Have had the same setup in 4 different trucks. My dad had it in his truck (short box SRW) and my FIL has it in his too(long box DRW).
I have a Pull Rite Super Glide 24K just sitting in my barn collecting dust if you want to buy that on the cheap. I don't have a use for it. LMK I'm in the Cincinnati Ohio area.
Most new 5th wheels do not need a slider. The nose is built to work with a short box. Like my 2011 Sabre 32BHOK.
American company, American made, Best damn hitch on the market period.
__________________
2008 Silverado 2500HD DMax LTZ cc sb 4x4 EFILive tuned, Blocked, Deleted, Rerouted and removed B&W Turnover ball and 5th Companion or Pullrite 24K, riderite 5000 airbags
2011 Sabre 32BHOK-6 most of the options
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12-21-2015, 12:01 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,464
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I'll stick with my manual slider.
It's not rocket science to figure out when to slide.
There's a thread on here, with a auto slider capture plate broken off.
Manual slides are dead nuts simple.
Also, depends on your location.
I have talked to people up here, about pulling with an auto slider on slippery roads.
The auto has a tendency to want to actually slide the rear of the truck over.
Another note.. The factory prep can be added after the fact. Easy and cheap to do.
The brackets are there. Just need the pucks and a few holes.
2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS
I am nice!
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2017 Dynamax Isata 4
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12-21-2015, 04:51 PM
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#34
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Blog: RVroadtripper.com
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Near Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,000
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I found the combination of a turn over ball and the Andersen Ultimate Fifth Wheel hitch to be a good setup. Many reasons to recommend but for me it was the light 32# weight makes it so easy to remove by myself. The other reason was the Andersen saved me 100# or more of lost payload. At the very least its worth a look.
__________________
2016 Wildcat 295RSX - 2015 GMC 2500HD DblCab Duramax/Allison 4x4 Z71 6.6' Bed
Maxxis 235/80/16E; AirBags w/AirLift1; mor/Ryde Rubber Pinbox; Andersen UltimateII Alum. 5erhitch on Reese Flipball w/Curt 4" offset; LCI Ground Control3; King Dishtailgater; Traveling with 10' Portabote;
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12-21-2015, 06:38 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 32
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I'll stay with a auto slide. I don't like getting out in bad or the rain to hassle with switching it and then again to put it back.
I have had 3 manual slides and their is no comparison to a auto slide.
I think if you ever tried one you would agree.
A lot of Windows and dented cabs have happened because someone didn't pull the manual slide.
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12-21-2015, 06:52 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,310
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I have a Curt 20k with manual slide. Everything works great and never had to use the slide and I have a short bed DRW.
Most new trailers don't need the slide with a short bed. The front corners of the trailer are cut on a 45 deg.
All auto slides need a special plate which prevents you from helping a buddy move his 5th wheel.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
XLR Thunderbolt 300X12HP
2014 Ram 3500 DRW
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12-21-2015, 07:04 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alayton
I'll stay with a auto slide. I don't like getting out in bad or the rain to hassle with switching it and then again to put it back.
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You going to stay in your truck when you get to the campsite too?
What if it's raining!!! 😜
2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS
I am nice!
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2017 Dynamax Isata 4
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12-21-2015, 08:07 PM
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#38
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homebrew
I have a Curt 20k with manual slide. Everything works great and never had to use the slide and I have a short bed DRW.
Most new trailers don't need the slide with a short bed. The front corners of the trailer are cut on a 45 deg.
All auto slides need a special plate which prevents you from helping a buddy move his 5th wheel.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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BS.....the capture plate has 1 set screw... loosen it, capture plate off pin-box, trailer can be towed by any hitch. Lock up slider action by drill'n, as I have, 1 hole in each slider rail to trap hitch head into a stationary position, and away we go...with a different 5er.
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12-21-2015, 08:14 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob caldwell
BS.....the capture plate has 1 set screw... loosen it, capture plate off pin-box, trailer can be towed by any hitch. Lock up slider action by drill'n, as I have, 1 hole in each slider rail to trap hitch head into a stationary position, and away we go...
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Too much work , specially in the rain. Why spent over $1K when you don't need it with the new trailer designs. Your just wasting your money and it takes up the entire bed of your truck.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
XLR Thunderbolt 300X12HP
2014 Ram 3500 DRW
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12-21-2015, 08:27 PM
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#40
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Left Coast
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: vancouver,washington
Posts: 15,649
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I don't have your money to buy a new one, so I found a way to do what I need to do....I have an 8' bed, but need to carry a trike (scooter) also...I've got a platform that uses the top of bed rails, from side to side, behind cab......in order to save the scooter fender and tire/wheel, I lower the pass side of platform into bed and pick-up more turn'n clearance..... then with auto-slider, makes life much simpler.....and, I can get the unit out of the bed, by myself, if required. Hitch was under $500. due to already hav'n rails.
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