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Old 12-12-2019, 10:12 PM   #21
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Went with the Equalizer as the dealer recommended and no bounce....
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Old 12-13-2019, 12:41 AM   #22
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Welcome to the forum!

As BillD said, check your shocks.

I change mine every 2 years or so, buy the best HD performance shocks you can afford, it will make a big difference. I drive a fair bit on gravel roads so the suspension takes a pounding.

My 2013 F150 used to porpoise constantly until I upgraded the shocks. I bought them at our local Canadian Tyre store, they've replaced them twice now, under warranty (lifetime) with a minimal labour charge.

We tow a 34' Rockwood 8310SS, it's axles are way back due to the rear kitchen, this induced a lot of bounce, the shocks cured it.

And before anyone runs on about the hitch, yes it is set-up correctly.

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Old 12-13-2019, 07:27 AM   #23
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First, hit the scales and check your weights. If you still have porpoising, consider a Roadmaster Active Suspension. I had a similar issue with my 2017 until I upgraded the suspension and the tires.
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Old 12-13-2019, 08:19 AM   #24
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This might be a dumb question, but I didnt see any indication to the answer, so I'll throw it out there. Since this was picking up from where you purchased, and it was the first trip home with it, my question is simple: Was the trailer loaded, or completely empty?

If empty, you may not need to do anything except put your gear in the trailer and then take it for another drive to see if it fixes the problem. Might save you a lot of work and hassle if the solution is just putting stuff in the trailer...
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Old 12-13-2019, 08:45 AM   #25
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Ditto on going to the scales. Dealer set up my neighbors all wrong. Cat Scale is 12 bucks first weigh, 3 for subsequent. Take you tools with you, We adjusted his 3 times till we got the distribution right. And ditto to tossing the bar to set tension bars. Hitch up and run that 3500lb electric tongue jack down till it's lifting the TW and slide those bars on with ease. I do one side LW does the other
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Old 12-13-2019, 09:09 AM   #26
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First the OP has not returned in a few days so we're still needing more information.

2nd I have a follow up-- If you posted you have an equalizer and no bounce I say good but that doesn't make the Blue Ox a bad choice.

My previous trailer had an Equalizer and I was OK with it. When I traded to my current rig my dealer installed a Blue Ox and I'm OK with that one too.

As with ANY WD hitch if you aren't getting enough weight transfer to the front wheels then you either have the wrong spring bars or the hitch is set wrong height or the wrong angle or bars in the wrong chain loop etc....

Finally- I can't stress enough if you have a Blue Ox- to get the longest breaker bar you can buy and a 1" socket. Yes you raise the tongue jack to take the stress off when you are setting the bars BUT sooner or later you will be on an un-level lot and maybe your truck is not straight with your trailer due to obstacles. IF you can't get the tension off the bars and need to hitch or unhitch- that extra long comfortable grip bar will be a wonderful thing to have!!
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Old 12-13-2019, 10:10 AM   #27
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Hope this helps

I had the same problem and after searching many forums I discovered that is a common problem on concrete roads. Every one calls it jounce, you can research it. I am pulling a work and play 34 footer with a ram 2500 and the proper blue ox wdh. I have scaled it and everything is set up correctly I tried airlift air bags with jounce stopper and that didn't help. The only way I was able to stop the jounce was to purchase an airsafe air ride hitch. It made a huge difference.
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Old 12-13-2019, 01:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
First the OP has not returned in a few days so we're still needing more information.

2nd I have a follow up-- If you posted you have an equalizer and no bounce I say good but that doesn't make the Blue Ox a bad choice.

My previous trailer had an Equalizer and I was OK with it. When I traded to my current rig my dealer installed a Blue Ox and I'm OK with that one too.

As with ANY WD hitch if you aren't getting enough weight transfer to the front wheels then you either have the wrong spring bars or the hitch is set wrong height or the wrong angle or bars in the wrong chain loop etc....

Finally- I can't stress enough if you have a Blue Ox- to get the longest breaker bar you can buy and a 1" socket. Yes you raise the tongue jack to take the stress off when you are setting the bars BUT sooner or later you will be on an un-level lot and maybe your truck is not straight with your trailer due to obstacles. IF you can't get the tension off the bars and need to hitch or unhitch- that extra long comfortable grip bar will be a wonderful thing to have!!
I've ordered a set of these https://store.lci1.com/straptek-weig...it-335852.html.
$119.25 on Amazon
I've not used them yet but have PM'd a guy that has with his Blue Ox and he swears by them. Hitching and unhitching is night and day easier.
The wild events that occur when unhitching are non existent.
I won't be able to try them until spring but I'm looking forward to a much easier hitch up.
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Old 12-13-2019, 04:37 PM   #29
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Bouncey Ride

I have a 2017 Colorado Diesel pulling a 30ft 6800lb Rockwood Windjammer Trailer, with 837lb tongue weight. I too, when I first started towing had a lot of sway and bounce. I put a Propride Hitch on, Added helper springs, added sway bars and thereby eliminated 95% of the sway. However I still had quite of bit of bouncing. I was thinking of nicer shocks versus the stock ones on the truck. I decided instead to change from the Type C rated standard tires that had only 38lbs of air pressure to Type E rated with a lot stiffer side walls. Another words put real truck tires on the truck not car tires that can get pressurized to 75-80Lbs. It was like night and day with the bounce while reducing the remaining sidewall sway. A lot of 150 or 1500 Trucks now a days have car tires ( type C) for softer ride. If you have Typed C rated tires when your tires need to be changed go to real Tuck tires which are E rated. You will see a big difference in bouncing when trailering. When not trailering lower pressure to 50lbs on tires that will help with the harder feel.
When your shocks need replacing change those up to Bilstein. Do Tires first then shocks.
Your issue is fixable.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:40 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945 View Post
Our improved greatly after we loaded the trailer with our stuff !!!
Right. Don't change a thing until you load it for camping, check the numbers, and take another test drive.
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Old 12-21-2019, 09:23 AM   #31
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Put LT tires on your truck.
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Old 12-21-2019, 12:57 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bykerbob View Post
Sorry about not providing all the info. 2014 f 150 eco boost. My TT is a 2019 wildwood 260tr
Hitch weight 610
Ccc weight 2682
Empty weight 4728
Need more info on your truck.
Max Tow Package or not.
HDPP or not.
LT or P tires.
Cab size.
Bed size.
4x4 or 4x2?
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