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Old 03-26-2017, 02:11 PM   #21
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Brake receiver plug low output

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Originally Posted by asquared View Post
Thanks for the suggestions. We did both a voltmeter and a test light. No variance on light, just dim. We left the fiver at the dealer an hour away yesterday since it wasn't safe to tow home. They hooked it up to their TV without us there after we left. We have a list of things to run down now though.
I don't think you'll be able to meter or test light any voltage IF the truck does not sense the electrical resistance of the brakes. From my GM world-class master technician son: "There will be no voltage on brake apply circuit unless the truck senses the presence (electrical resistance) of the brake servos."
When I showed him your pic, he wrote back "No excuse for scotch locks."

Pic of my Tee-harness.

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Old 03-26-2017, 04:08 PM   #22
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Obviously the wiring should be cleaned up, but if it has been working until the trailer was worked on, that would be the usual suspect.

Do you even get a trailer connected message when you plug it in?

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Old 03-26-2017, 05:37 PM   #23
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I have a 2014 duramax 3500 SRW with the integrated factory brake controller. We just got new brakes put on the sabre and went to pick it up. No brakes. trailer hooked to dealers truck works fine. Circuit tester shows low output to fiver receiver plug brake pin. All other pins worked fine. Checking the regular trailer hitch receiver showed no voltage to any of the pins. Looking at the wiring the dealership piggybacked the wiring for the fiver receiver plug off the regular receiver plug when the did the install a couple years ago. Fuse is good. Any other suggestions on where to look?
With that picture that you posted of the wiring, I understand why you had/have a brake problem. Those connectors are no good in the elements. You probably had fading brake problems over time and didnt realize it. More than likely they were breaking down before you had the brakes done and now it is showing up. I will only use that type connector for an emergency road side fix!
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:57 PM   #24
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I do get trailer connected message.
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:59 PM   #25
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Allie, think back to last August in Bristol when your trailer pushed the truck on the wet pavement when entering the campground. At the time we assumed the problem was the worn tires on the Chevy not getting any grip on the pavement. Now, starting to think that maybe the real problem was the trailer brakes not being up to speed. Looking at the rats nest of wiring it could be internal corrosion could be limiting the amount of voltage which was supposed to be sent to the TT brakes.

Hmmmmmm.
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:25 PM   #26
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I do get trailer connected message.
That just let's you know its connected not that it will pass proper current!
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:37 PM   #27
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Allie, think back to last August in Bristol when your trailer pushed the truck on the wet pavement when entering the campground. At the time we assumed the problem was the worn tires on the Chevy not getting any grip on the pavement. Now, starting to think that maybe the real problem was the trailer brakes not being up to speed. Looking at the rats nest of wiring it could be internal corrosion could be limiting the amount of voltage which was supposed to be sent to the TT brakes.

Hmmmmmm.
Even more facts to support bad connections.

Another thing to note, you said the added 5th wheel bed plug had only some contacts working and the stock bumper mount plug had nothing working. Even more reason to rewire.
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:03 PM   #28
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Let the fun keep coming this year.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:09 AM   #29
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Sorry I'm not closer, I'd fix it for you. Won't be down your way till later next month up R/D way for car show.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:18 PM   #30
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Sorry I'm not closer, I'd fix it for you. Won't be down your way till later next month up R/D way for car show.

Appreciate the offer. . Sent you a pm about your trip. Maybe we can meet up for dinner or something thing
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:25 PM   #31
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I suspect the connectors. I don't like using them in controlled environments let alone in areas with moisture and salt. I agree they should be cut out and soldered then covered with heat shrink tubing.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:42 PM   #32
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Unfortunately DH said he does not know how to solder.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:55 PM   #33
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Unfortunately DH said he does not know how to solder.
30 bucks for a soldering gun kit @ Home Depot and a quick instructional video and he'd be pro by the second wire.
The hardest part about soldering.........remembering to put the shrink tubing on first!
I understand though if he doesn't care to learn. Working on stuff isn't for everyone, then there's others like myself who enjoy it.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:08 PM   #34
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He is a regular Tim Allen... all the good intentions not necessarily all the good results.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:10 PM   #35
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Unfortunately DH said he does not know how to solder.


You could just buy the whole short harness.
Throw that scotch lock mess in the trash.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:17 PM   #36
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I agree that mess looks bad, never really looked at it before to be honest. DH is fighting me on this one. I say fix it , he says it's fine.
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Old 03-28-2017, 07:04 AM   #37
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If you read the MB posts in that type class c, they have the same problem of wireing that should be water proof and isn't and open to the elements. I only wire custom cars for fun and never do any connections that can corrode outside the enclosed body. I redid the wireing connections for the brakes on my trailer because they were just open crimp connectors!
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Old 03-28-2017, 07:26 AM   #38
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I agree that mess looks bad, never really looked at it before to be honest. DH is fighting me on this one. I say fix it , he says it's fine.
Here's just one more example of the DW being right!!

... and regarding
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You could just buy the whole short harness.
Throw that scotch lock mess in the trash.
I paid $60 for my Curt plug and play harness at employee discount - probably costs less than $70-75 from eBay, etc.
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Old 03-28-2017, 07:36 AM   #39
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I agree that mess looks bad, never really looked at it before to be honest. DH is fighting me on this one. I say fix it , he says it's fine.
How can it be fine if it doesn't work?
You can't argue that.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:21 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
You could just buy the whole short harness.
Throw that scotch lock mess in the trash.
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Originally Posted by Mr. Dan View Post
Here's just one more example of the DW being right!!

... and regarding I paid $60 for my Curt plug and play harness at employee discount - probably costs less than $70-75 from eBay, etc.
The thing is it's too late for that. They rigged it with wire taps on the CHASSIS harness, not a replaceable pigtail. (watch the video I posted above and compare to their plug)
This was an attempt to save a customer 65 bucks that bites you in the butt later on. In actuality the installer probably didn't have the proper adapter and rigged it just to push it out the door.
A proper repair is in order.
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