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Old 01-04-2021, 07:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jo-e90 View Post
Newbie here, Read so many threads on towing with various answers, itís left me more confused, so to make this easy...looking for a TT (below) but can my F150 (daily driver) tow this keystone weíre looking at?
Also, do I need a Distribution Hitch? If so, any recommendations? Mostly flat Midwest Hwy. about 200-600 miles from home 6 times/yr.

Dry TT- Front Kitchen - Hitch Weight: 1065 lb. UVW 7809 lb. CCC 2056 lb. Exterior Length: 29' 11Ē

Ď13 F150 5.0 4WD SCREW 302A with 3.55 Axle.
GVWR 7350
GCWR - 13,500.lbs
Factory yellow sticker says : Combined weight of occupants and cargo 1450lbs.
Weight of loaded truck for camping with occupants on scale 6500lbs.

Factory Hitch w/WD óMax Tongue 1050lb. Max Trailer 10,500lb
W/out WD Max Tongue 500lb. Max Trailer 5000lb
Let me know what info Iím missing
Thanks for helping
Factory tow ratings are an ad agentís pipe dream based on a few facts.
GCWR minus tow vehicle (TV) curb weight (full gas) equals factory tow rating.
To get the largest tow rating, they use up the TV payload. But they allow for 150# driver in the tow rating. 2021 Ford also allows for a 150# single passenger.

So with your data:
GCWR 13,500 minus actual weighed truck 6500 leaves 7000 left for towing.
Bonus points for actually weighing loaded for camping truck.
If you look at 7000# GVWR trailers maximum that would simplest and safest. Trailers slightly over that are doable but you would have more closely watch your camping load.
Everything I read makes me consider 7000# towing is the F150 sweet spot to be as big as you can to tow relatively easily, safely and comfortably, at least without the HDPP, or at least Max Tow package AND a bit of heavy load towing experience. I have more GCWR & payload and would consider 8K# but not a lot more for my truck.
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Old 01-04-2021, 07:55 PM   #22
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You run out of payload with your truck.
Sounds like you weighed it with gear and passengers and it can in at 6500lbs. Truck can go 7350 leaving you 850 for tongue weight. Need to throw people or gear overboard.

I pull a 28' TT 7700 GVWR with my F150 and it tows like it's on rails behind me so don't think an F150 is limited to just a popup. It's all about setting it up right and not exceeding your ratings by more than a couple of pounds.
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Old 01-04-2021, 08:07 PM   #23
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Old 01-06-2021, 03:35 PM   #24
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Since I will not be camping the other 360 days a year What 3/4 would have the best non-towing comfortable ride and reliable? Could only afford about a 2012-2015 3/4 gasser. Would sure miss the F150 comfy ride the rest of the year as a daily driver.
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Old 01-06-2021, 03:59 PM   #25
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I wouldn't recommend you try to pull that trailer with what you've got. At all.

I went from a 2013 F-150 with the Coyote and while I won't say I regret it, and that I really do like my 2017 Ram CTD 2500, I miss the F 150.

Easy to drive, good in town or on the highway, decent fuel economy and low maintenance.

You wanna talk about expensive maintenance? Get a diesel. You'll learn to DESPISE the EPA and you'll be raiding the kids College Fund for maintenance and repairs. Not joking. I just dropped over $4k on a tune and delete. Don't ask. It wasn't an option. I'm looking at tires for over $1,300 and it takes two (2) batteries at a time.

A regular dino-oil change is over $120 and synthetic is over $200. Oil and fuel filters (yes filters) is close to $500.

Not to mention that diesel fuel is usually about 20% more than regular gas. Sometimes 30% or better.

Plus, it's just not something you jump into and run to the store or take short trips in it. Diesels don't like that. You can do it, but I don't recommend it

You can get a gasser 2500 or F 250, but -- What's the point? They don't do much of anything very well. They won't pull much, they drink gas like a college Sophomore drinks beer on Spring Break, they ride like doo-doo, (wait until you hit a speed bump with your wife in the passenger seat.... You'll hear it then) they're big, hard to park and the re-sale on them is horrible.

Diesels.... We already went though that. Although I truly love my Ram CTD, if I was doing it now, it would be F 150 all the way.

If it was me, I'd save my pesos and wait for the new F 150's to go on sale. They do everything pretty well.

My boy's F 150 with the ecoboost is nothing short of scary fast. You can't compare it to anything else on the market.

In fact, if I can get a good price for diesel, I'd go buy one myself. But we're talking over $60k sticker and $52k on sale for a '21. And that deal won't hit until next quarter.

Sorry for the rant.
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Old 01-06-2021, 07:00 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Jo-e90 View Post
Since I will not be camping the other 360 days a year What 3/4 would have the best non-towing comfortable ride and reliable? Could only afford about a 2012-2015 3/4 gasser. Would sure miss the F150 comfy ride the rest of the year as a daily driver.
If you or your wife have to have a cushy riding truck then Iíd suggest you look for a smaller trailer that a half ton is suitable for towing. All 3/4 ton pickups will have stiffer suspension in order to be able to handle the heavier payload. It would be best to just go out and test drive something in your budget. You could replace the stock suspension on a used truck - it might actually need it on a 2012 - but that will have a cost youíd have to account for.

Many of us have been there and had to make the same decision. A bigger trailer with more amenities means a bigger truck to tow it.
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Old 01-06-2021, 07:27 PM   #27
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Just test drove a 2013 Silverado LTZ 2500, didn’t seem too terribly worse ride comfort than my F150. Liked how low to the ground it was for a 3/4 ; not too tall to climb in and out of which I do 30 times a day for job deliveries.

Wonder if the Dodge or Ford would ride better or just as low as the Chevy?
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Old 01-06-2021, 07:52 PM   #28
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Just test drove a 2013 Silverado LTZ 2500, didnít seem too terribly worse ride comfort than my F150. Liked how low to the ground it was for a 3/4 ; not too tall to climb in and out of which I do 30 times a day for job deliveries.

Wonder if the Dodge or Ford would ride better or just as low as the Chevy?
When I was test driving 3/4 ton trucks, I didn't think they were much worse than my Tundra. Then I bought one and drove it around every day and it is 100x worse than my Tundra. And my buddy's Titan. And my friends F150. There are a lot who say it's fine, but I would sure love to have the 1/2 ton ride and mileage over my 2500HD. But I can't pull my 5er with a half ton. The value of towing a 5er far outweighs the need for a comfortable ride.

You can't tow that trailer with your truck. You won't find a 3/4 ton that rides like your F150. Pick your poison.
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Old 01-07-2021, 11:30 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by The Big Toe View Post
I wouldn't recommend you try to pull that trailer with what you've got. At all.



I went from a 2013 F-150 with the Coyote and while I won't say I regret it, and that I really do like my 2017 Ram CTD 2500, I miss the F 150.



Easy to drive, good in town or on the highway, decent fuel economy and low maintenance.



You wanna talk about expensive maintenance? Get a diesel. You'll learn to DESPISE the EPA and you'll be raiding the kids College Fund for maintenance and repairs. Not joking. I just dropped over $4k on a tune and delete. Don't ask. It wasn't an option. I'm looking at tires for over $1,300 and it takes two (2) batteries at a time.



A regular dino-oil change is over $120 and synthetic is over $200. Oil and fuel filters (yes filters) is close to $500.



Not to mention that diesel fuel is usually about 20% more than regular gas. Sometimes 30% or better.



Plus, it's just not something you jump into and run to the store or take short trips in it. Diesels don't like that. You can do it, but I don't recommend it



You can get a gasser 2500 or F 250, but -- What's the point? They don't do much of anything very well. They won't pull much, they drink gas like a college Sophomore drinks beer on Spring Break, they ride like doo-doo, (wait until you hit a speed bump with your wife in the passenger seat.... You'll hear it then) they're big, hard to park and the re-sale on them is horrible.



Diesels.... We already went though that. Although I truly love my Ram CTD, if I was doing it now, it would be F 150 all the way.



If it was me, I'd save my pesos and wait for the new F 150's to go on sale. They do everything pretty well.



My boy's F 150 with the ecoboost is nothing short of scary fast. You can't compare it to anything else on the market.



In fact, if I can get a good price for diesel, I'd go buy one myself. But we're talking over $60k sticker and $52k on sale for a '21. And that deal won't hit until next quarter.



Sorry for the rant.
You are getting BENT OVER on your maintenance prices. I do my oil for probably $35. A delete, if I do it, will be $1000 even (pipe, tuner, dial switch, and tune). Love the power. I do miss a half ton's ride though. I like stiff suspension, but on rough roads when empty, the 2500 sucks.
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:44 AM   #30
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You are getting BENT OVER on your maintenance prices. I do my oil for probably $35. A delete, if I do it, will be $1000 even (pipe, tuner, dial switch, and tune). Love the power. I do miss a half ton's ride though. I like stiff suspension, but on rough roads when empty, the 2500 sucks.
I don't pay that for service, but an awful lot of people do. I just bought the stuff to do an Oil, and Fuel Filters change on Amazon. Right at $160, parts only. You can't buy 3 gallons of even cheap diesel oil for $35. ridiculous.... Much less a Filter added in. And if you're using aftermarket junk on a Cummins (or any other diesel) we'll see your truck on a buy-here, pay-here lot in the near future.

As to doing an entire delete and TUNE for $1000? Go for it. Maybe 10 years ago. But not now. Even a canned tune (better be from overseas) is a grand or better, if they don't interept it at the border. And a 4" downpipe-back delete ain't exactly cheap. Even aluminized junk is at least $400. Then add in a muffler unless you want to paint "Arrest Me" on the side of your truck. A decent Flo Pro 5'' Turbo back is at least $600 not including the muffler.

Let us all know what you replace you truck engine and ECM with.
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:59 AM   #31
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You are getting BENT OVER on your maintenance prices. I do my oil for probably $35. A delete, if I do it, will be $1000 even (pipe, tuner, dial switch, and tune). Love the power. I do miss a half ton's ride though. I like stiff suspension, but on rough roads when empty, the 2500 sucks.
X2....I'm not a mechanic by an stretch of the imagination but I'm capable of doing mine own oil changes on my Cummins 3 Gallons of Rotella T6 for $20 bucks a gallon at Sam's club and a Mopar filter at Wal*Mart for $12 net cost less than $80 with tax..and 30 minutes of my time.......

Same goes with the fuel filter's for both less then $100 and 30 min give or take of my time to change them...Shoot even my local dealer doesn't charge close to the maintenance costs you are quoting.

Like it or not you have to pay to play otherwise move on from the diesel
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Old 01-08-2021, 12:52 PM   #32
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X2....I'm not a mechanic by an stretch of the imagination but I'm capable of doing mine own oil changes on my Cummins 3 Gallons of Rotella T6 for $20 bucks a gallon at Sam's club and a Mopar filter at Wal*Mart for $12 net cost less than $80 with tax..and 30 minutes of my time.......

Same goes with the fuel filter's for both less then $100 and 30 min give or take of my time to change them...Shoot even my local dealer doesn't charge close to the maintenance costs you are quoting.

Like it or not you have to pay to play otherwise move on from the diesel
You're at $152 and I'm at $160. We're both right there. The person I responded to said he could do it for $35. Horse feathers

Fuel Filters are right at $100. So let's round it off and say $175 for Oil and the Filters. IF you can do it yourself.

I can't. I'm too old to be crawling around on the grund, reaching around a tire to get the oil filter (could cummins have put it in a worse place?) and getting diesel in my face on the rear, frame mount filter (sometimes).I have to go to a Mech Shop, which I used to be able to get it done for $75 on a Saturday. I don't think that's gonna happen anymore. I think I'm looking at minimum $100.

Even when used to do it myself, I end up ruining the clothes I'm wearing, getting oil and diesel stains on the concrete garage floor and seriously P-ing off the War Department with all the oil and diesel stained and smelly clothes.

I just took the Dear Wife's newish Edge Platinum to the Dealer for an oil change and tire roatation. $49 dollars, done and done. And Ford's oil, the synthetic blend, is actually pretty darn good oil.
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Old 01-08-2021, 03:36 PM   #33
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Heavy trailer!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo-e90 View Post
Newbie here, Read so many threads on towing with various answers, itís left me more confused, so to make this easy...looking for a TT (below) but can my F150 (daily driver) tow this keystone weíre looking at?
Also, do I need a Distribution Hitch? If so, any recommendations? Mostly flat Midwest Hwy. about 200-600 miles from home 6 times/yr.

Dry TT- Front Kitchen - Hitch Weight: 1065 lb. UVW 7809 lb. CCC 2056 lb. Exterior Length: 29' 11Ē

Ď13 F150 5.0 4WD SCREW 302A with 3.55 Axle.
GVWR 7350
GCWR - 13,500.lbs
Factory yellow sticker says : Combined weight of occupants and cargo 1450lbs.
Weight of loaded truck for camping with occupants on scale 6500lbs.

Factory Hitch w/WD óMax Tongue 1050lb. Max Trailer 10,500lb
W/out WD Max Tongue 500lb. Max Trailer 5000lb
Let me know what info Iím missing
Thanks for helping
WOW that's heavy. Check out the Apex 290BHS
SPECIFICATIONS
Hitch Weight:758 lb.GVWR:7600 lb.UVW6168 lb.CCC1432 lb.Exterior Length:34' 0"Exterior Height:10' 7"Exterior Width:96"Fresh Water:50.00 gal.Gray Water:35.00 gal.Black Water:35.00 gal.Awning Size:20'
https://coachmenrv.com/travel-traile...te/290BHS/5407
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Old 01-08-2021, 04:13 PM   #34
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I was in a similar situation with my old truck. (2010 F150 SCREW 1545 payload) I was towing a 2509s with a GVWR of 6880. Although Ford rated my truck as 8100 lbs, there is zero change I would have done that. I was probably at or just exceeding my payload capacity as it was.


I upgraded to an F250 gas. Plenty of truck for the current trailer and some extra if we decide to upgrade at some point. Does it ride as nice as my F150? Nope. But everything in life has some type of trade off. I grew up with trucks, so it doesn't bother me at all. But I can see that it would bother some.


Someone mentioned a F150 with the Max Payload and Max Tow. It seems like that would be a very nice alternative. But good luck finding one on a dealer lot easily. If I had to guess that's an order from the factory.


One of the best video's I've seen is listed below. Marc describes it perfectly for new RV'ers. I've recommended this video on countless occasions.


https://www.keepyourdaydream.com/payload/
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Old 01-08-2021, 07:37 PM   #35
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When I was test driving 3/4 ton trucks, I didn't think they were much worse than my Tundra. Then I bought one and drove it around every day and it is 100x worse than my Tundra. And my buddy's Titan. And my friends F150. There are a lot who say it's fine, but I would sure love to have the 1/2 ton ride and mileage over my 2500HD. But I can't pull my 5er with a half ton. The value of towing a 5er far outweighs the need for a comfortable ride.

You can't tow that trailer with your truck. You won't find a 3/4 ton that rides like your F150. Pick your poison.
A 2500 is VERY similar to the 1500, but like anything with a higher load capacity, it gets a lot stiffer. The 3500 is the dually. Dualies are buck boards without a load. They recommend duallies for heavy 5th wheels because of tire capacity. Duallies don't solve everything. Look at the video in full below!
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Old 01-08-2021, 11:28 PM   #36
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WOW that's heavy. Check out the Apex 290BHS
SPECIFICATIONS
Hitch Weight:758 lb.GVWR:7600 lb.UVW6168 lb.CCC1432 lb.Exterior Length:34' 0"Exterior Height:10' 7"Exterior Width:96"Fresh Water:50.00 gal.Gray Water:35.00 gal.Black Water:35.00 gal.Awning Size:20'
https://coachmenrv.com/travel-traile...te/290BHS/5407
The problem with that trailer is that it doesn't have a balanced gray/black water capacity vs the fresh water capacity. In all likelihood, you'll fill up the gray water tank before you run out of fresh water, while the black water tank will have plenty of capacity left. The Cougar 24SABWE I'm looking at has a 60 gallon fresh water tank, a 76 gallon gray tank and a 38 gallon black tank. I could bring an extra 20 gallons of water with me and still have a little room left in the gray tank. If I'm boondocking/dry camping I could use the outdoor shower and bring 60 gallons of extra water with me. I could stay out for several weeks with that kind of capacity.
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Old 01-08-2021, 11:35 PM   #37
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I was in a similar situation with my old truck. (2010 F150 SCREW 1545 payload) I was towing a 2509s with a GVWR of 6880. Although Ford rated my truck as 8100 lbs, there is zero change I would have done that. I was probably at or just exceeding my payload capacity as it was.
An F-150 typically has a GVWR of 6900 to 7100 lbs. With 1545 lbs of payload capacity there is no way it would have been rated for 8100 lbs.
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Old 01-09-2021, 04:59 AM   #38
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A 2500 is VERY similar to the 1500, but like anything with a higher load capacity, it gets a lot stiffer. The 3500 is the dually. Dualies are buck boards without a load. They recommend duallies for heavy 5th wheels because of tire capacity. Duallies don't solve everything. Look at the video in full below!
That truck is an F250 (not a dually). Has an aftermarket long travel suspension (Procomp) and an after market set of offset wheels. It might have been enough truck before the modifications (barely)...
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Old 01-09-2021, 07:53 AM   #39
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That truck is an F250 (not a dually). Has an aftermarket long travel suspension (Procomp) and an after market set of offset wheels. It might have been enough truck before the modifications (barely)...
My point was not that it was dually, but that a fifth wheel rig does not solve all towing issues.
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Old 01-09-2021, 07:59 AM   #40
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The problem with that trailer is that it doesn't have a balanced gray/black water capacity vs the fresh water capacity. In all likelihood, you'll fill up the gray water tank before you run out of fresh water, while the black water tank will have plenty of capacity left. The Cougar 24SABWE I'm looking at has a 60 gallon fresh water tank, a 76 gallon gray tank and a 38 gallon black tank. I could bring an extra 20 gallons of water with me and still have a little room left in the gray tank. If I'm boondocking/dry camping I could use the outdoor shower and bring 60 gallons of extra water with me. I could stay out for several weeks with that kind of capacity.
Weight, tongue weight and towing capacity was my point. How much time difference does that gallon capacity give you. On gray water, most boondockers will use dish pans and dump it outside or in the toilet. To each his own. I'm using a Silversdo 1500 and will not have the fuel consumption.
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