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Old 01-24-2019, 06:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jkoenig24 View Post
Sounds like putting lipstick on a pig........
If that was aimed at me, it may be a while before I put lipstick on that pig as it only has 105K miles on it.
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Old 01-24-2019, 07:41 PM   #22
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I couldn’t pay for a new truck cash and I wouldn’t want a used one. I’m 73 and if I financed for six years I would be 80 when the truck was paid off or dead. I really don’t want a dually. I like GM, about the only change would be a crew cab, I have a extended cab now
Jimmy, I'm 74 almost 75, 9 more days. I have 143K on our '15 Duramax and don't notice any difference in how it runs and pulls. I don't plan on buying another PU before I die. The only reason to do that is if we got to where we couldn't camp anymore I might get rid of the car and PU, buy a nice used half ton. Talked to too many people that have upperwards to 500K on them with out any big problems.

I don't understand why so many talk about injectors and glow plugs going in less than 100K, haven't any problem other than some of the fancy electronic in the dash. Had to replace the onstar/GPS antenna that's all that it's been in the shop since new.

Drive on OLD MAN, it will out last you!
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:21 PM   #23
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It’s kind of funny but the time the truck was under warranty the glow plugs would go out. I replaced all the glow plugs under warranty, some twice. Since I did the delete no problems with glow plugs. I don’t ever plan on trading trucks again, that’s why I was asking about engines. If I can get 150,000 more miles on this truck I’ll be happy. I’ll be 74 in June, maybe three or four more years camping. Sometimes I wonder where all the time went, it’s been a fun ride so far
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:42 PM   #24
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$20K for a new engine in a 2011 F150? You can buy a complete 2011 F150 XLT with 50K miles for that price.

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F-250. Diesel. They ain't cheap.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:22 PM   #25
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I have an acquaintance who had over 600k on his Duramax before cracking a piston. He was on the original transmission. He hauls heavy campers for a living. Key to these trucks living a long life is to work them. The people who have problems buy a diesel and use them as grocery getters. At 150k on a Dmax, I wouldn't even be worrying about it.
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:02 PM   #26
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I’ve always been told “drive ‘em like you stole ‘em” on the Heavy Duty trucks. 2001 Ford V-10 with 375,000 miles that drives like a top and a 2008 Ford V -10 at 225,000 and still driving like new
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Old 01-24-2019, 11:03 PM   #27
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I "know" a guy who hotshots with a 400,000+ mile Duramax up until a couple weeks ago when he broke the crank. Sold it to a guy who was going to rebuild it and put it back on the road. He hauled heavy for sure.

For injectors, LB7s had bad injectors (bad design?, not sure). So that's likely where a lot of that talk comes from. Of course newer ones have issues now and then, too.
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:08 AM   #28
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One thing you could do, and it maybe worth it, is do some major maintenance. Go over everything and get a good assessment where you are at. I’d look at the owners manual, and I’d consider having the HPFP and the injectors changed out, But not before considering the truck as a whole. Belts, differentials, brakes etc. let’s say you need to put 10000 in it and you have a complete A1 bill of health. To me it would be worth it,if the body is still great.
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:33 AM   #29
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One thing you could do, and it maybe worth it, is do some major maintenance. Go over everything and get a good assessment where you are at. I’d look at the owners manual, and I’d consider having the HPFP and the injectors changed out, But not before considering the truck as a whole. Belts, differentials, brakes etc. let’s say you need to put 10000 in it and you have a complete A1 bill of health. To me it would be worth it,if the body is still great.


That’s a good idea, I have take the truck back to the shop that did the delete to change the transmission fluid. It’s about time I changed some other things, I’ll have the shop check everything out, it’s a racing shop.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:26 AM   #30
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That’s a good idea, I have take the truck back to the shop that did the delete to change the transmission fluid. It’s about time I changed some other things, I’ll have the shop check everything out, it’s a racing shop.
Kinda read my mind. Find a shop that you trust/highly recommended and have them do a full diagnostics and service(if no issues present). Is it a guarantee? No, but it might give you some peace of mind. My ole Dodge has 191K on it and if it gives trouble in less than another 100K then I will be over there raising cane. I also know the one I have is subject to break a piston at ~300K.

Good luck with your quest and journey.
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:52 AM   #31
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Can’t afford a new truck, maybe a new engine

Yeah my brother and I was talking last night about your situation. He’s a highly trained heavy diesel mechanic turned management. So Cummins is highly regarded by everyone to go long term. But he thinks around 150000 it may be worth it to take stock of the truck and since the HPFP and the injectors are bad news IF they fail he thinks one might just preemptively change it out to increase reliability especially since I’m going to be traveling where a break down would be an ordeal.

So it doesn’t mean you won’t have an issue but it’s something to consider. He doesn’t do this in his trucking operation because his trucks are less than 50 miles away all the time.

The biggest problem I have is I usually get the itch for a new truck before I get to 150000 miles. But this time I don’t know, I really really like this 3500.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:53 PM   #32
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That’s a good idea, I have take the truck back to the shop that did the delete to change the transmission fluid. It’s about time I changed some other things, I’ll have the shop check everything out, it’s a racing shop.

The 2012 used the CP4 HPFP. If you do look at changing it as a preventative measure, ask you shop about switching to the CP3. It is a much more durable pump. They will go a long time. I can't remember who, but someone sells a filter kit that goes after the pump and has a very fine screen to catch the debris if the CP4 does take a dump. Since you are already deleted, I would add one more thing. GM is the only truck to not use a lift pump (they added one in 17). The HPFP has to suck the fuel from the tank. Biggest killer on a HPFP is getting a small air leak in the fuel system. With no lift pump, the HPFP then sucks just a slow stream of air. Not enough to throw a code, but enough to kill the HPFP which then takes out the injectors. Do what GM should have done from the beginning, add a lift pump. Many of them are very loud. I used a pump from Kennedy Diesel. It is absolutely silent. Keep on driving that dmax for years, its got lots of life left in it.
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:01 PM   #33
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https://www.dieseltechmag.com/2017/1...s-the-cp4-time


There is a lot of hubbub about the CP4 pumps, but remember that there are literally hundreds of thousands of trucks out there that are using these. Yes, if it happens to you it's expensive. Nobody ever gets on the forums to say "Hey guys, got 300k on mine without any problems at all"
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:33 AM   #34
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Engine replacement

I have 200k+ on my 2012 F250 6.7 with no signs of giving up.
I have spent the money on a by-pass oil filter and spend the money on syn oil and the $25 Amsoil oil filter. I also get an oil analysis with each oil change for early warning etc.
If you have concerns, just a week ago I got a call about my expired warranty and even though I told them I had 200k plus they still had options. So maybe that would be an option for you????/
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:40 AM   #35
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I bought an extended warranty from Ford at 98,000 miles. It saved my ***** as at 129,000 miles the 6.7 blew up. I got a new crate engine installed for $106.50!!
Yes, I believe in extended warranties
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:00 AM   #36
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I was just at the shop that did the emissions delete on my Silverado and I asked them what was the cost to rebuild a engine. The person told me they didn’t rebuild the engine as it wasn’t cost effective, a new engine installed about $12,000.00. A new engine from GM has a warranty of three years or a 100,000 miles. I was thinking of a rebuild of around $6,000.00. With any luck at all this engine should last me until I stop camping. I keep my Silverado serviced but you never know. On a side note does anyone use diesel additives in your diesel fuel
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:42 AM   #37
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My brother had a 2016 GMC 2500 Duramax 6.6 and at 49,000 miles it experienced the dreaded CP4 fuel pump failure. Shop quoted him at 4-5 weeks to repair. Sure, it was under warranty, but what do you do without your daily driver for over a month? Anyway, he traded it in on a new truck. As mentioned, above, I don't know how many hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of these engines are out there, so the CP4 failure is still quite rare. Rare enough that my brother didn't think twice about doubling down and re-upping on his new GMC 2500 Duramax 2500.

So, is that risk there? Sure. Is it a reason to walk away from the GMC brand? No, because every brand has a finite non-zero failure rate.

As for additives, I recommend reading at a truck/diesel forum. The short answer is that some do, some don't. In the winter in cold climates, it may be prudent to use an anti-gelling additive ... though most regions have a winter blend diesel that already combats this. I'll probably run some Ford PM-22 in my 6.7. I don't know if it does anything, but it ends up being ~$0.07/gallon of fuel.
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:43 AM   #38
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I run Optilube in ours, multiple reasons. Lots of arguments on it “snake oil” but with 210k on it with no fuel issues I will keep doing what I am doing
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:45 AM   #39
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Dang CP4 failure is a 2 day repair, just did one a few weeks ago.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:07 AM   #40
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Dang CP4 failure is a 2 day repair, just did one a few weeks ago.
Probably so, but for a Ford dealership, it was 4-5 weeks. That doesn't mean that it would take them 160 shop hours to do the job ... it means that from when you drop off the truck, it will be around 4-5 weeks to when they'll have the job completed.

They didn't have the parts, they probably had other people already in the queue, and it was in Kansas with fewer options than, say, the Seattle metro area.
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