Can't Get Ball Low Enough On WDH Hitch

[KKonyha]

Husky Centerline WDH Hitch
2017 F-150 Crew Long Bed (Truck is stock. Not lifted in anyway)
2011 Flagstaff 30WIFKSS (Same As Rockwood Windjammer 3008)
When leveled, the coupler height is 17 1/2". The lowest I can get the ball is 20"
When hooked up the trailer sits level. I am about 1 3/4" low on my back end but exactly the same height as unloaded on the front. I took it for a ride and it seems pretty stable. I know the ball is supposed to be only 1" higher than the coupler. What part of the hitch performance am I losing if any at all?
Most of the YouTube videos have the coupler heights in the 20s. It seems mine sits lower or the Alro torsion axles are wearing out. There isn't many miles on this trailer. I looked above the tires and there is several inches to the floor. I also did not see any marks where the tires connected with the floor.

[katkt]

Originally Posted by KKonyha

Husky Centerline WDH Hitch
2017 F-150 Crew Long Bed (Truck is stock. Not lifted in anyway)
2011 Flagstaff 30WIFKSS (Same As Rockwood Windjammer 3008)
When leveled, the coupler height is 17 1/2". The lowest I can get the ball is 20"
When hooked up the trailer sits level. I am about 1 3/4" low on my back end but exactly the same height as unloaded on the front. I took it for a ride and it seems pretty stable. I know the ball is supposed to be only 1" higher than the coupler. What part of the hitch performance am I losing if any at all?
Most of the YouTube videos have the coupler heights in the 20s. It seems mine sits lower or the Alro torsion axles are wearing out. There isn't many miles on this trailer. I looked above the tires and there is several inches to the floor. I also did not see any marks where the tires connected with the floor.

I went with a whole different adjustable draw bar, that had more holes so the body of the Husky, could be lowered. The only drawback on the one I chose, was the angle brace(gusset) required a longer extension from the hitch receiver. I'm sure there is some physics regarding added leverage. It's working fine so far, and the extension, allows me to drop my tailgate when the trailer is connected.
Make sure whatever you purchase, has enough extra holes below where you are now, to get the drop you need.
You can also contact Husky. They've been very helpful to me, fine tuning the used Husky, I purchased from a member here on the forum after buying my trailer. They even sent me a packet of shims.

[KKonyha]

What am I losing if I don't go with a lower hitch?

[DougW]

With the front axel of the tow vehicle back to it’s unhitched height and the trailer level you should be OK. You are not getting some of the equalization available and the ideal solution would be to get a different drawbar insert that will allow you to get the ball lower when unhitched. I would not be afraid to drive it the way it is, just go easy until you are sure it will tow without problems.

[youroo]

You probably have a "Underslung " A FRAME mount, if so you will need a 12" long shank to drop your head! Youroo!,

[KKonyha]

Originally Posted by youroo

You probably have a "Underslung " A FRAME mount, if so you will need a 12" long shank to drop your head! Youroo!,

That is correct. The coupler is at the bottom of the a-frame. So that is why most are higher. They must be welded to the top of the a-frame.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by KKonyha

That is correct. The coupler is at the bottom of the a-frame. So that is why most are higher. They must be welded to the top of the a-frame.

I went through all this back in 2010 when they started to "Experiment " with bottom ball mounts! My Reese Dual Cam head had a Bastard 15/16 hole spacing instead of the more currant 1-1/4 spread,so I had to make a complete 12" drop shank with 15/16 bolt spacing! You should be able to buy what you need! Youroo! !

[katkt]

Originally Posted by KKonyha

What am I losing if I don't go with a lower hitch?

Without being able to shoot for a "as close to level as possible" with the truck and trailer, I think you'd be grasping at straws as far as determining if your setup is correct. With a tandem axle trailer, you'll be putting an uneven load on the rear axle with the nose high.
That's a large trailer. You'll want the weight distributed evenly.

The taller draw bar isn't going to break the bank. I haven't had any issues dragging. My trailer has the undermount hitch also(2015 26WFKSS Vlite).

Just a thought, incase you get a lot of sag at the hitch before hanging the WDH bars. I'm a big fan of the Loadmaster Active Suspension system. I'm running it on my 2010 F150 SC4x4. If I was to buy a new F150, for a trailer like mine or closer to yours, I'd already have a set ordered.

[KKonyha]

Originally Posted by youroo

I went through all this back in 2010 when they started to "Experiment " with bottom ball mounts! My Reese Dual Cam head had a Bastard 15/16 hole spacing instead of the more currant 1-1/4 spread,so I had to make a complete 12" drop shank with 15/16 bolt spacing! You should be able to buy what you need! Youroo! !

The Husky part number is 30857 but it is out of stock everywhere I can see. Is there an equivalent in another manufacturer? I can't believe this simple part would be manufacturer specific.

[Boomerweps]

If the trailer rides level and the truck is within spec for the hitch setup, go for it.
When measuring the coupler height, you did measure the INSIDE TOP, didn’t you?

[phipps33]

Where are you located? I may have a longer shank, but shipping would be astronomical.

How long is your current shank?

[katkt]

Originally Posted by KKonyha

The Husky part number is 30857 but it is out of stock everywhere I can see. Is there an equivalent in another manufacturer? I can't believe this simple part would be manufacturer specific.

It isn't. It all works off the 2" bar stock used industry wide. I purchased mine from a local company that makes trailers(boat, flatbed, and work). I went searching the WWW this morning, because I couldn't find "draw bar" in my cranial file. I found a variety of selections. Try Etrailer, or Northern Tools.

[KKonyha]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

If the trailer rides level and the truck is within spec for the hitch setup, go for it.
When measuring the coupler height, you did measure the INSIDE TOP, didn’t you?

Yes, that made sense because you were measuring the top of the ball on the mating part.

[KKonyha]

Originally Posted by katkt

It isn't. It all works off the 2" bar stock used industry wide. I purchased mine from a local company that makes trailers(boat, flatbed, and work). I went searching the WWW this morning, because I couldn't find "draw bar" in my cranial file. I found a variety of selections. Try Etrailer, or Northern Tools.

I tried looking just on the website but will need to call. Thanks for the suggestions though.

[KKonyha]

Originally Posted by phipps33

Where are you located? I may have a longer shank, but shipping would be astronomical.

How long is your current shank?

Attachment 236860

It is the standard one. The one Husky referenced has a 10" drop.

[phipps33]

Originally Posted by KKonyha

It is the standard one. The one Husky referenced has a 10" drop.

If yours is a 10” drop, I don’t think mine has anymore drop.

[katkt]

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-17123-Re...776799&sr=8-49

[KKonyha]

Originally Posted by katkt

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-17123-Re...776799&sr=8-49

I will have to check the 7" dimension for compatibility. Thanks for the link.

[katkt]

Originally Posted by KKonyha

I will have to check the 7" dimension for compatibility. Thanks for the link.

I think they have their dimensions discombobulated. If you study the pics in the link, they tell a different story.

[lbrjet]

If the trailer is level why do anything? What exactly do you think the problem is?