Concern about the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

Now the only question is what to do about it. To bolt or to weld, that is the question...

I reviewed the ability of bolts to resist the moment forces and it's clear that welding offers much greater strength and is more appropriate than what the frame could bear with bolting.

Andersen has an illustration in their current manual calling for 2 inches of weld on each bracket as an "optional" approach. The recommended location and length of the weld looks like it would do a good job on most frames.



By reports, this hitch has some really nice features. I think the urethane springs provide the excellent damping characteristics that users report. The lighter weight and lack of grease are some of the other nice traits. It's particularly noteworthy to me that at least two people have made substantial investments in strengthening their frames in order to keep using the hitch. (Is that a love-hate relationship or what!?!)

However, it appears that the teething issues of this "relatively" new ten year-old design are not completely over. Because the hitch does not apply a simple downward load on the A-frame members like the saddle-brackets on a conventional WDH, it can lead to problems with lighter frames as illustrated in this thread.

I don't think Andersen's providing cone-point set screws is a very sound approach. Perhaps they are trying too hard to make installation easy for DIY installers. I know that I was attracted by the idea that I wouldn't have to head to the welding shop or deal with the higher torque values involved in installing other hitches.

I also think the rather vague instructions on setting, checking and adjusting the chain tension could also contribute to issues.

Personally, if I was to start over today, I'd simply get the brackets welded as per the illustration in the manual. As it stands, I'll mind the tension and keep a close eye on the brackets. If indicated, I'll stop along the way and connect with a friendly local welder somewhere on the road.

[01tundra]

That's ^ how I welded our brackets.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

That's ^ how I welded our brackets.

Yep, that's the way to do it!

For better or worse, I'm just going to chalk this up as a another learning experience.

I took a quick(!) look at some of your mod thread including your receiver hitch fabrication and welding which is really nicely done.

I'm not trying to be snarky, but I noticed that the Andersen hitch was initially installed with the set screws and without welding. So, I am curious; did you weld it later on due to some issue you experienced towing, or was welding it just a case of getting it done as planned?

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

Yep, that's the way to do it!

For better or worse, I'm just going to chalk this up as a another learning experience.

I took a quick(!) look at some of your mod thread including your receiver hitch fabrication and welding which is really nicely done.

I'm not trying to be snarky, but I noticed that the Andersen hitch was initially installed with the set screws and without welding. So, I am curious; did you weld it later on due to some issue you experienced towing, or was welding it just a case of getting it done as planned?

Just finally got around to welding it, had planned to from the beginning.

[itat]

Sorry to revive this older thread. We are strongly considering downsizing to a Rockwood Mini Lite TT and I’m interested in the Andersen WDH due to my bad back and not wanting to go back to the very heavy bars on the Equal-i-zer 4 point WDH we used on our previous TT. This thread has been an interesting read.

If you want to do the weld option how do you know what angle to set the brackets at? The part that holds the urethane springs is at a bit of an angle to the brackets. It seems it might be best to install the hitch with the set screw for the tow home and then weld the brackets after that has set the brackets in the position they set themselves in?

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by itat

Sorry to revive this older thread. We are strongly considering downsizing to a Rockwood Mini Lite TT and I’m interested in the Andersen WDH due to my bad back and not wanting to go back to the very heavy bars on the Equal-i-zer 4 point WDH we used on our previous TT. This thread has been an interesting read.

If you want to do the weld option how do you know what angle to set the brackets at? The part that holds the urethane springs is at a bit of an angle to the brackets. It seems it might be best to install the hitch with the set screw for the tow home and then weld the brackets after that has set the brackets in the position they set themselves in?

Did you read the attachment in post #61? Your question is very clearly answered there. What is unclear about the part highlighted?

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by itat

If you want to do the weld option how do you know what angle to set the brackets at? The part that holds the urethane springs is at a bit of an angle to the brackets. It seems it might be best to install the hitch with the set screw for the tow home and then weld the brackets after that has set the brackets in the position they set themselves in?

I would suggest installing the brackets, and welding, insuring that the brackets are at the correct angle and desired spacing from the coupler.

I positioned the brackets on ours so there are about 1/2" of threads exposed beyond the nut when the hitch is set up for highway towing with weight transfer. This allows me to slack the chains without having to completely remove the nuts when starting a trip as we have a very sharp transition from where the trailer is parked on level grade beside the house to a driveway which runs up to the street at about 25% grade. Likewise, I figure the ability to easily slack the chains could be handy for operating off-road in some conditions, perhaps at a stream crossing.

I don't see any need to "set" the brackets, or any advantage in driving with them under the load of full weight distribution before welding. Others may have different opinions, which I will be interested to see posted here.

[itat]

I did read post #61 and I’ve downloaded the installation manual. I’m just having difficulty visualizing it in my head without the parts in front of me. I don’t know how much play there is.

My only experience is installing the Equal-i-zer hitch (on both my previous Roo and TT) and the bolts securing its brackets weren’t perfectly tight to the frame either. On some installations there is enough space between the frame and the bottom bolt that you require a wedge piece to prevent the brackets from shifting.

If I do downsize and buy the Andersen WDH, I wouldn’t have it welded until after I bring the trailer home. I wouldn’t want to have the dealer do the welding.

I guess it will be more evident when you actually have the hitch installed and you’re looking at it.

[Aussieguy]

Install everything with the bolts...
when you are happy it works correctly ...
add a small tack weld about 1 inch long ... to the bracket
stops any chance of bracket moving.

Please note .... too much weld can weaken the steel.
The stresses on the V Tube or I beam while towing are substantial
especially where that bracket will be placed almost the middle of the V, between truck and frame

this area would be the worst place to do any drilling / welding unless you absolutely know what you are doing.

learner welders would be best to stay away from doing anything more than a simple tack.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by itat

I did read post #61 and I’ve downloaded the installation manual. I’m just having difficulty visualizing it in my head without the parts in front of me. I don’t know how much play there is.

My only experience is installing the Equal-i-zer hitch (on both my previous Roo and TT) and the bolts securing its brackets weren’t perfectly tight to the frame either. On some installations there is enough space between the frame and the bottom bolt that you require a wedge piece to prevent the brackets from shifting.

If I do downsize and buy the Andersen WDH, I wouldn’t have it welded until after I bring the trailer home. I wouldn’t want to have the dealer do the welding.

I guess it will be more evident when you actually have the hitch installed and you’re looking at it.

I'll start by saying that I have no idea if the frame on the Rockwood Mini Lite TT is as thin or vulnerable as the problematic ones described in this thread.

However, my concern would be damaging the trailer A-frame by distorting it with the Andersen cone-tip set screws, or crushing it, or having the brackets slide under a weight-distributing load as others have described.

It looks like you have an F-250 which could readily tow the trailer home (and more) "on the ball". You could even install the Andersen and snug the chains just enough to implement the anti-sway without attempting weight transfer. This conservative approach might be preferable to risking damaging the trailer A-frame by attempting weight distribution before welding. However, as noted, I don't know how thin or "at-risk" this trailer's frame would actually be.

The fit of the bracket through-bolts against the top and bottom of the frame members is quite snug; with standard HSS frame members there won't be any room for wedges at the top or bottom.

As you say, it will all make more sense when you have the parts in hand.

Incidentally, I can't see where I ever posted our towing experience with the Andersen on this forum. We towed 3,000-miles+ on a loop through the west this spring, starting and ending near sea level and crossing the Rockies twice. We did quite a bit of towing at speed on I-90 and such in the high plains winds.

Travelling through the mountains on I-90 in Idaho, the experience through the tight turns with rutted, scabby pavement was night-and-day different from my two previous trips through that route. I was able to maintain higher speeds with much greater control, comfort, and confidence. The porpoising and bucking have also been virtually eliminated, and the greaseless, lightweight design has made hitching and unhitching hardly any more difficult or complicated than towing on the ball.

In a word, the performance of the WDH was excellent. Our 7,200-lb.-rated JGC calls for using a WDH at 5,000 lbs. and we tow our trailer at about 4,600 lbs. loaded. Now I can "point" instead of "steering". I only wish I had done this years ago.

Though I do not have any experience with any other WDH's, I'm happy with the hitch's performance, end of story.

[itat]

Thanks for the information and opinions everyone. It'll be helpful should I end up getting the Andersen.

[bikendan]

As someone looking at an Andersen WDH, for my next TT, having to weld it to the A-frame, discourages me from buying one.

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[itat]

Originally Posted by bikendan

As someone looking at an Andersen WDH, for my next TT, having to weld it to the A-frame, discourages me from buying one.

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Dan, if I didn’t have a bad lower back, I wouldn’t be considering the Andersen. I had good experience with the Equal-i-zer hitch (despite the creaking noises) and I’d be going that route but I don’t want to have to deal with the heavy bars. If you have any other options I’ll look at that, too.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by itat

Dan, if I didn’t have a bad lower back, I wouldn’t be considering the Andersen. I had good experience with the Equal-i-zer hitch (despite the creaking noises) and I’d be going that route but I don’t want to have to deal with the heavy bars. If you have any other options I’ll look at that, too.

Yea, I currently have an Equal-i-zer but will have to get a bigger one for my next TT. Luckily at 68, I can still handle one.

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[Chuck_S]

Is the Andersen hitch head magically lighter than the Equalizer head?

The Equalizer bars are a fraction of the weight of the hitch head itself which takes (me) two hands to lift and fit into the receiver at the back of the truck. The weight bars are "one handers."

-- Chuck

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

Is the Andersen hitch head magically lighter than the Equalizer head?

The Equalizer bars are a fraction of the weight of the hitch head itself which takes (me) two hands to lift and fit into the receiver at the back of the truck. The weight bars are "one handers."

-- Chuck

Yes Chuck, the Andersen WDH is WAY lighter than an Equal-i-zer WDH.
Have ever looked at pics of the Andersen WDH? It doesn't have a "head" nor bars.
https://www.amazon.com/3324-Andersen...a-570737247751

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[Old Coyote]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

....However, my concern would be damaging the trailer A-frame by distorting it with the Andersen cone-tip set screws, or crushing it, or having the brackets slide under a weight-distributing load as others have described.

As you say, it will all make more sense when you have the parts in hand.

....I was able to maintain higher speeds with much greater control, comfort, and confidence. ...the greaseless, lightweight design has made hitching and unhitching hardly any more difficult or complicated than towing on the ball.

....In a word, the performance of the WDH was excellent.
Though I do not have any experience with any other WDH's, I'm happy with the hitch's performance, end of story.

I too was concerned with damaging the TT frame, but we have only experienced a very slight indentation where the Mounting Bolts cross the frame and where the Set Screw locks it in place, with NO APPARENT PROBLEMS, and NO MOVEMENT of the Hitch Mounts.

I agree 100% with "CivilGuy"Our experience with the Andersen WDH has been excellent, with over 10,000 miles of towing back and forth over the Rockies and to both West Coast and Texas.

[Aussieguy]

I have the Equalizer heavy bars which can be a real pain to get onto the bracket


I adjust the trailer height using the Electric Tongue Jack
and the curved tool that helps lever it in place once it gets close
can lift and push with the bottom of my foot...

Bit of practice and it becomes second nature and quite easy


EDIT Additional info
sometimes I hook the ball up and drag the trailer a few yards to get it into a better position, before attempting the bars more even ground between trailer and truck

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by bikendan

As someone looking at an Andersen WDH, for my next TT, having to weld it to the A-frame, discourages me from buying one.

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You don't have to weld it but a small dime sized tack weld is all that would be required . This is just a way to make sure the brackets don't slip at all . most people i think over torque the brackets causing the a frame to distort .

Maybe they are making thinner frames now days but i got 40,000 mile with my Andersen with out issue and it went to the new owner of the trailer .

[caheaton]

Maybe this is a dumb question, but having never had the need for a WDH before (but likely will in the next couple of years when we upgrade our camper), could a person possibly use some JBWeld adhesive in lieu of a tack weld? If the purpose of the weld is simply to ensure it stays in place it seems that this could be a viable option....

(Asking so I have the knowledge in advance should the need arise....)