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09-13-2011, 01:17 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Concern about upgrading to Reese Dual Cam
With the purchase of our new camper we will have to upgrade our round bars on the WD from 750 lbs to 1000/1200 lbs. I currently have the friction sway control pictured and figured since I'm upgrading bars I may as well upgrade the sway control with the dual cams. My concern is where you mount the cams on the tounge. Since the plate with the ball for the other control is mounted there (will be removed), there are 6 holes in the tongue already and I'm scared of putting another 2 holes so close to the other 6 to mount the cam. Am I concerned over nothing?
My other option would be to spend $150 more and get the Equal-i-zer and hopefully recover the additional expense by selling the old reese.
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09-13-2011, 02:23 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 771
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The Equalizer Hitch with 4 way sway control does not require any holes to be drilled in the frame, as long as you are buying a new hitch anyway, that may be an option for you. I have the 10K lb eqaulizer and love it! The bolt on friction sway control like you have pictured may not be the best option for larger TT.
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09-13-2011, 02:35 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Opelika, Al
Posts: 103
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I have the Equalizer 4 point as well and love it. The Reese was my second option, but the Equalizer is easier to set up and no drilling.
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09-13-2011, 03:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,632
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on my previous trailer the dealer mounted the friction sway control. Then later on i bought and installed the dual cam. I too was concerned about the holes, but after awhile i never thought about it again.
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2012 Georgetown XL 350TS, Hellwig front/rear sway bars, Sumo Springs, Blue OX True Center steering damper
2013 Ford Explorer LTD toad, Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP><Tow Brake
Better to have a bad day of camping than a good day at work!
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09-13-2011, 03:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Yes, I would consider the Equal-i-zer because there is no drilling. Still is cheaper if I go with the Reese, just concerned about having so many holes in the tongue frame so close together with the Reese. I'm just wondering if I'm being to paranoid.
I have actually towed with that friction sway control about 400 miles now and it has really done well. I was worried going from a 27' to a 32' with it, but I haven't felt any difference. No winds yet though, my primary concern for upgrading the sway control.
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09-13-2011, 04:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Dodge Guy, thanks for the info, you must have posted when I was typing my last message. I'm thinking I would never have a problem, but then I think for a little more I could get the Equal-i-ers I never have to worry about it again. Just wanted to to bounce it off a few of you and see what the concensus was. Thanks to all who posted.
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09-13-2011, 04:29 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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How close to the friction sway controller holes will the Reese Dual Cam be ?? Can some of the same holes be used ?? If the holes are not going to be too close, then I can't see where more would be a problem.
I too was concerned about holes being drilled in my brand new camper frame, but now I don't even think about it.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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09-13-2011, 04:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy
How close to the friction sway controller holes will the Reese Dual Cam be ?? Can some of the same holes be used ?? If the holes are not going to be too close, then I can't see where more would be a problem.
I too was concerned about holes being drilled in my brand new camper frame, but now I don't even think about it.
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I went and out and measured last night. If I mount the cam mounts where they recommend (18" back from center of ball I believe) then the rear hole of the cam mount will be somewhere in the middle of the other holes. It looks like the cam mount holes would be lower in the frame then the friction sway bar mounts, so no re-using any existing holes. Thats how it looks online anyway.
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09-15-2011, 06:52 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Well I called Reese last night and spoke with their tech dept. They said there should be no issue drilling more holes. Of course, I didn't expect them to tell me something that would stop me from buying their product Good people though. Still undecided on which setup
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09-15-2011, 08:01 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 926
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I have used both and both are good systems, you won't be disappointed with either. I would give a slight preference to the Equalizer. Both work equally well, but I would give the preference to Equalizer as it was easier to set up/adjust, was a slightly quieter operation and no drilling was required.
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David & Audra (16 year old twins)
2006 Dodge Power Wagon (Adventure & Tow Vehicle)
2006 Rockwood 8281SS (Home away from Home)
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09-15-2011, 08:06 AM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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09-15-2011, 02:29 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Thanks for the feedback Glenn.
mtnguy, I did check that system out as well, but there seems to be an issue with rubbing when the ball receptacle is mount at the top of the frame, which is what I have. Other than that it looks good, but they will need to drop the price about $100 to make it compete with the Equal-i-zer. Thanks for the suggestion.
Measuring my frame tonight and if it's less than 2 1/2 inches wide I'm ordering the dual cam. Both systems are so close that it's really a tough choice. Since I have the Reese WD already it should be fairly easy to add the cams and 1200lb bars. Plus after reviewing the installation instructions I saw that you can switch the direction of the frame plate. This should allow me to keep some space between it and the existing holes, which was my main concern.
Thanks to all for the help.
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09-15-2011, 05:18 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 349
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When we upgraded from the friction bar to the Equal-i-zer, I left the friction bar ball in place. Have had no problems. If I were to remove the plte and ball, I would put the screws back in the holes with Lock Tight. I once had a structral engineer explain to me that a round (true round) hole cause very little weakening of a structure. My thought is that if I were to put the screws back in it would be very close to original spec. Also less chance of rust.
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Kirk, KN1B
2013 Cardinal 3800FL
2009 GMC 3500HD CC LB SRW
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09-15-2011, 10:01 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 1,264
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I still have my friction bar as well, but after installing the Reese dual cam, I haven't used the friction bar ever again- no need for it. Sell it to someone with a pop up. Randy
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/SIGPIC]'08 V-lite Flagstaff 30WRLS
'06 Ram 1500 QC hemi Reese dual cam sway control,
K&N series 77 intake, Hellwig helper spgs. LT tires,
Flowmaster "true duals", 380 h.p., Bilstein shocks
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09-16-2011, 06:41 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: jacksonville fl
Posts: 319
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Another vote for The Equalizer Hitch with 4 way sway control .
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09-16-2011, 09:16 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,337
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LFugate - Has nothing to do with this thread (we have an Equalizer and can't comment on the Reese, since we've never owned one), but I LOVE your Avatar photo. Totally COOL car!!!
__________________
2012 Rockwood 8293RKSS
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins Turbodiesel 4x4; 2012 Ford Escape 4x4. 3 very pampered cats.
Days camped: 2011: 61; 2012: 66 Days; 2013: 69;2014: 68 2015: 90 Days camped 2016: 34
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09-16-2011, 10:12 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Good point kbrown1075, I also like the idea of putting the screws back in to fill the holes.
Thanks trudinator! It's a project for sure, but we really love it. The full restore keeps getting pushed back because I keep spending the money on other things, like TT's
I've ordered the DC and I'm looking forward to towing with it. Thanks to all for the advice and comments
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09-16-2011, 11:55 AM
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#18
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camping
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge Guy
on my previous trailer the dealer mounted the friction sway control. Then later on i bought and installed the dual cam. I too was concerned about the holes, but after awhile i never thought about it again.
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same here- I had a hitch shop install my dual cam and he said not to worry about the extra holes- also confirmed with Reese.
__________________
2007 Chevy 2500HD CC
2010 V-Lite 30WRLTS
Nights Camped 2011 -64
Nights Camped 2012 -50
"I Live in My Own World, But It's OK. They Know Me"
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09-16-2011, 10:49 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 1,264
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Hmmmm...I installed my Reese dual cam setup myself in 08, per the instructions provided, and never needed to drill any holes at all. Maybe I missed something??? Seems to me it all works just fine, although a bit noisy on turns. Randy
__________________
/SIGPIC]'08 V-lite Flagstaff 30WRLS
'06 Ram 1500 QC hemi Reese dual cam sway control,
K&N series 77 intake, Hellwig helper spgs. LT tires,
Flowmaster "true duals", 380 h.p., Bilstein shocks
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09-17-2011, 07:43 AM
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#20
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08flagvlite
Hmmmm...I installed my Reese dual cam setup myself in 08, per the instructions provided, and never needed to drill any holes at all. Maybe I missed something??? Seems to me it all works just fine, although a bit noisy on turns. Randy
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Pictures, please.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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