Confused about towing w/Highlander

[TKaiser]

First, I'm new to the forum and just got a Geo Pro 19FD.
Here' my confusion: I have a 2016 Highlander XLE and have talked and researched info on theses and other forums regarding the use of the Highlander as a tow vehicle. I realize having a nice truck would be ideal but as you know they are very expensive. I have talked to several people who are currently towing with their Highlanders trailer that are as heavy as the Gel Pro or more. They say they have no problems other than the usual gas mileage, etc... Then I read some things that say you shouldn't use a Highlander.
What I would like to know, from people who tow with a Highlander, does it preform satisfactory.
I plan on mostly towing in the Midwest and Eastern U.S.
I have a WDH and have towed a boat weighing 3400 pounds with no problems.
Thanks for any advice.

[Chuck_S]

Towing a 4500 pound trailer with a vehicle with a maximum towing capacity of 5000 pounds is possible. Not sure if this SUV has different ratings for HD Tow or if that's even an option. May not be "happy towing" but should work. The 5000 pound max tow rating assumes the tow vehicle is empty and every pound in it decreases the capacity.

You will probably need a WDH and sway control.

Of concern is the cargo carrying capacity of your Highlander. Travel trailers need 10% to 15% of their weight on the ball so you'll need at least 450 pounds on the ball for safe towing (and maybe as much as 675). Another limitation. Boat trailers tow differently and your boat probably only needs about 300 pounds on the ball.

"I wish I had less towing capacity." (No one ever.)

Travel trailers are a never ending cycle of bigger trailers and more capable tow vehicles. I bought a Ford Explorer to tow our first (a popup) and when that trailer proved too small it towed our Roo but never "happily." Expeditions since them.

My rule of thumb for "Happy towing" is the One Ton Rule which states the tow vehicle needs 2000 pounds more capacity than the trailer's GVWR. This allows for loads in the tow vehicle, high summer temperatures, high altitudes, and steep grades.

-- Chuck

[D W]

I guess a lot depends on what classes of hitches are permissible, and what your current receiver is rated for. Not familiar with Highlander, but some SUV's are not rated for a WDH.

[TKaiser]

I have a class III hitch and rd brake controller. This is the dame set up as the other Highlander owners. One owner said it towed better than the Pilot and Traverse he had used in the past.

[rxgac]

Payload is another factor to consider. Easy to be within the tow capacity and be overloaded. Over on payload is probably more dangerous since it affects braking and steering.

[bikendan]

Oops

Originally Posted by TKaiser

I have a class III hitch and rd brake controller. This is the dame set up as the other Highlander owners. One owner said it towed better than the Pilot and Traverse he had used in the past.

Your first issue will be the loaded tongue weight.
Your car probably has a max hitch weight of 500lbs, since its towing capacity is 5000lbs.
I’ll bet money that the loaded tongue weight will exceed that 500lbs number.

Using 13% of the trailer's GVWR for a ballpark loaded tongue weight, gives you 576lbs. These large single axle trailers have much heavier tongue weights because the axle is set so far back.

Can't compare towing a boat to towing a TT that has a much higher tongue weight and much higher frontal air resistance. Boats have much lighter tongue weights and virtually no frontal air resistance.

[D W]

Originally Posted by TKaiser

I have a class III hitch and rd brake controller. This is the dame set up as the other Highlander owners. One owner said it towed better than the Pilot and Traverse he had used in the past.

So, with a class III your towing capacity would be 4000 lbs with a WDH, and max tongue weight at 400 lbs. This is the safe envelope if the Highlander will will support it.

[Chuck_S]

Class 3 trailer hitch is good to 8000 pounds with the right draw bar so that's good to go but the maximum towing capacity of the vehicle is still only 5000 pounds based on other factors.

Class 1: 2000 pounds (1.5" receiver)
Class 2: 3500 pounds (1.5" receiver)
Class 3: 8000 pounds (2" receiver)
Class 4: 10,000 pounds (2" receiver)
Note the receiver's max tongue weights are 10% of the receiver tow rating. Perfect for boat trailers but not some travel trailers.

Guys tow trailers near, at, or in excess of maximum towing capacity every day taking advantage of the safety factors built into the ratings. Works until it doesn't.

-- Chuck

[TKaiser]

What can I do to reduce my hitch weight if I'm over there limit??

[Chuck_S]

Rhetorical or you're known to be over tongue weight? Measured it? Remember safe towing requires 10% to 15% of the trailer's weight on the ball.

-- Chuck

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by TKaiser

What can I do to reduce my hitch weight if I'm over there limit??

Because of the setback axle, there's not much you can do.
Your trailer's fictional dry tongue weight of 432lbs, doesn't include the weights of batteries, factory options, dealer add-ons, water and trailer cargo.
That number is based on a stripped-down version of the trailer.
Batteries alone will put you over the 500lbs number.

This is the real world issue with these type of travel trailers. The manufacturers use clever marketing to lure customers with marginal tow vehicles, without informing them what real world loaded tongue weights will really be.

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/rockw...pro/G19FD/8020

[TKaiser]

I pick the trailer up on the 12th to bring it home. Not real worried about the tongue weight for that trip because I would be adding much if any weight to the trailer. I'm starting to wonder about the what ifs. I'm really planning on keeping the trailer at or under 4000 lbs. (Dry weight is 3347 out the door)
It will be only my wife, my dog (standard poodle) and me so hopefully I'll have some play room by putting some stuff in the Highlander with us.

[TKaiser]

How is it that all of the people I've talked say they have no problems. These are people I've met at campgrounds and know they are towing with Highlanders???
This is why I'm so confused. I understand all math but am still left scratching my head. I can't afford a trailer AND having to buy another vehicle.

[D W]

Originally Posted by TKaiser

How is it that all of the people I've talked say they have no problems. These are people I've met at campgrounds and know they are towing with Highlanders???
This is why I'm so confused. I understand all math but am still left scratching my head. I can't afford a trailer AND having to buy another vehicle.

Maybe they haven't had any problems or they're okay pushing past the envelope, but what we're giving you here is tabulated data and vehicle "safe" limitations. Only you can decide what you want to tow. You can only transfer so much weight to the tow vehicle before you reach the Highlander's GVW.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by TKaiser

I pick the trailer up on the 12th to bring it home. Not real worried about the tongue weight for that trip because I would be adding much if any weight to the trailer. I'm starting to wonder about the what ifs. I'm really planning on keeping the trailer at or under 4000 lbs. (Dry weight is 3347 out the door)
It will be only my wife, my dog (standard poodle) and me so hopefully I'll have some play room by putting some stuff in the Highlander with us.

You haven't said what year this GeoPro is. You are also making a common newbie mistake by using the trailer's UVW dry weight number. The link I posted is for the 2024 19FD, which shows a UVW(Dry weight)of 3417lbs.
As I said before, that's for a stripped-down version of the trailer. You need to look for the trailer's yellow sticker that shows what the trailer weighed when it left the factory. Not the bogus website/brochure dry weights.
You need to go by the GVWR more, than the UVW dry weight number.
Many GeoPro/E-Pro owners here, have found that the real world loaded tongue weights are much higher than the fictional dry tongue weight numbers.

[Chuck_S]

The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the planning number keeping in mind it's difficult to keep the weight below this many times. And...

Guys tow trailers near, at, or in excess of maximum towing capacity every day taking advantage of the safety factors built into the ratings. Works until it doesn't.

If you're weighing everything that goes into the trailer and taking to the Cat Scale more than once you simply need a real tow vehicle sized for this size trailer. I'm on my 2d Expedition with HD Tow. Wore the first one out. Don't forget the One Ton rule for Happy Towing.

-- Chuck

[Chuck_S]

I can't afford a trailer AND having to buy another vehicle.

Many of us were in the same situation (sounds better than "made the same mistake"! ) and learned our lessons which we're trying to pass onto folks. But too many folks only come here and ask the questions after they've made the purchase. Your tow vehicle is marginal for this trailer but marginal usually works if you respect it's capabilities.

As I said earlier you can tow this trailer. And you may be happy (I hope you will be). Time and miles will tell.

-- Chuck

[Corn-Belt]

Your set up (Highlander and Geopro) are not too different from mine. I just bought my trailer, and it's listed dry weight is similar to yours (a bit heavier actually) and I am pulling with a Pilot. I loaded up for my first trip a couple weeks ago, took it to a CAT scale and did all the weighing and the math. My loaded trailer weight was only 3840 lbs, and I was well within all my max axle and GWVR and GCVW weights with room to spare. The WDH transferred 500 bls off of the rear axle of the towing vehicle and split it between the trailer and the front axle. The undistributed tongue weight was at the max for the Honda, but under the 15% of the loaded trailer weight, so in the safe zone. It pulled well up and down some hills in SE Minnesota, and I felt safe driving it. I won't be passing anyone on the freeway and will allow more time to get to my destination. I plan to pull it in the mountains out West yet this fall. When it is time to upgrade my towing vehicle, I may look for something with 8 cylinders, but like you I feel committed to my current towing vehicle.

[TKaiser]

After a lot of research and discussions with trailer people and hitch people I've learned that a WDH is designed to take weight off out the rear axle and spread it out between the front axle and the trailer axle. They have said that this means a reduction of between 20-30% of the "felt" tongue weight. Example: a tongue weight of 500 lbs becomes a " felt" weight of
between 350 to 400 lbs.
The hitch people said they 10 to 15% so there's a little fudge factor.
I do value your opinion so what do you think?
NOTE: I'm swapping out for lithium batteries. The Geo Pro is compatible.

[Corn-Belt]

Originally Posted by TKaiser

After a lot of research and discussions with trailer people and hitch people I've learned that a WDH is designed to take weight off out the rear axle and spread it out between the front axle and the trailer axle. They have said that this means a reduction of between 20-30% of the "felt" tongue weight. Example: a tongue weight of 500 lbs becomes a " felt" weight of
between 350 to 400 lbs.
The hitch people said they 10 to 15% so there's a little fudge factor.
I do value your opinion so what do you think?
NOTE: I'm swapping out for lithium batteries. The Geo Pro is compatible.

I calculated that my tongue weight went from 520 lbs undistributed to 340 lbs distributed (a 35% reduction). Did your hitch folks indicate that the 10-15% of loaded trailer weight is best measured by the distributed or undistributed tongue weight? I have had that question and not seen it addressed in any threads (or online). Any thoughts out there?