Cost for replacing 2011 Ram 2500 CC 2WD Differential?

[The_Rhino]

My 2011 Ram 2500 CC 2WD w/5.7 Hemi's rear differential failed on the way home from work this week...... Anyone have their Ram 2500's differential replaced & what was the cost?

I'm thinking about having my mechanic swap-in 4.3 gearing vs. current 3.73. For those that did a 4.3 swap, what was the cost? I'm also going to have him replace the wheel bearings while he has it apart...

Since I'm only 2WD, I'm thinking of going with anti-slip this time. Is this a good option? I've heard the anti-slip sometimes strips & leaves pieces of debris in the gears... Thanks in advance for those that can give advice!

[donniedu]

Isnt it still under warrenty?

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by donniedu

Isnt it still under warrenty?

I'd say he is about 3 years past warranty unless he purchased an extended warranty.

I know the cost of replacing the differential is not cheap and changing gears about $400. If you do the repair I;d go with the anti slip good investment. Later RJD

[The_Rhino]

It's a 2011 w/135K miles, so no longer under 5 year/100K mile powertrain warranty...

I got it for only $14K in 2013, just 2 years old... In 2014, with 96K miles Ram replaced the 5.7 Hemi under warranty... It was trouble free from 2014-2017. Since the engine only has 40K miles, I would like to keep it going until the kids are grown & we upgrade to a MH...

[donniedu]

Figure a grand to 1500 dollars for aftermarket parts.

[BigH]

I've had limit slip (clutched), electronic lockers and mostly auto lockers.

Limited slip is just that, limited...much better than an open diff but it will allow just one wheel to spin. Example: one tire on pavement the other in mud/wet grass/snow/ice/etc. the tire with the least amount of traction will be the one turning more. This type performs best when new.

Electronic lockers have to be engaged manually and are usually speed limited. Once the button is pushed those tires are locked...one tire turns a quarter turn and the other did the same. The ones I've had were speed limited 25 and under.

Autolockers allow very little slip then they lock up like an electronic locker described above. My first choice..

[bigmurph]

A limited slip diff spins both wheels. The description above is for an open diff.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by bigmurph

A limited slip diff spins both wheels. The description above is for an open diff.

Sir, a limited slip applies torque to both wheels via a clutch...a clutch that slips. That clutch will allow one wheel to spin at a different speed or not at all compared to the other wheel under extremes as explained.

https://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm

The torque supplied to the wheel not on the ice is equal to the amount of torque it takes to overpower the clutches. The result is that you can move forward, although still not with the full power of your car.
The power applied to the rear wheels (both) is only capable of applying torque at the value of the clutch...beyond that there is no more power applied. To simplify, if the load on the tire with traction is more than the clutch can handle that tire will not turn at the same rate as the other and not at all under the right conditions.

[TheGerman]

Figure $500-$700 for the ring and pinion (depending on OEM or aftermarket etc.) and close to $1000 for a clutch style limited slip, more like $1200 for the helical gear type. Assorted bearings and labor and it's probably inching towards 2k.

Never heard of clutch style limited slip diffs leaving bits and pieces around but for helical style that's a possibility. Although I've only seen it when combined with a locking mechanism like in the Jeep TJ Rubicon. The right axle shaft gets locked to the carrier but power to the left side is transferred across the "stuck" helical gears.

[bigmurph]

BotH, you are correct with the limited slip clutch setup as far as splitting torque. If the system is working correctly they will pull both wheels very well. In fact most of the poblems that I have had to fix over the last 20 years had to do with them not slipping enough. The other limited slip that you mentioned as the auto lockers are the best as you described for most truck applications because they are open diffs when needed and locked for sure when needed. The clutch style is much better in performance applications because the mechanical lockers can self destruct under heavy abuse. If I was the OP I would call some local salvage yards and see about picking up a complete rear diff. He could get the gear he wants with a locker and probably be less expensive than the labor and parts to repair. That would depend on the salvage market and labor rates for his area.

[ronheater70]

Originally Posted by BigH

Sir, a limited slip applies torque to both wheels via a clutch...a clutch that slips. That clutch will allow one wheel to spin at a different speed or not at all compared to the other wheel under extremes as explained.

https://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm

The torque supplied to the wheel not on the ice is equal to the amount of torque it takes to overpower the clutches. The result is that you can move forward, although still not with the full power of your car.
The power applied to the rear wheels (both) is only capable of applying torque at the value of the clutch...beyond that there is no more power applied. To simplify, if the load on the tire with traction is more than the clutch can handle that tire will not turn at the same rate as the other and not at all under the right conditions.

The newer heavy duties like mine have a worm gear setup for the limited slip..See if your carrier will accept that style.. Its worlds better than the clutch setup

[BigH]

Originally Posted by ronheater70

The newer heavy duties like mine have a worm gear setup for the limited slip..See if your carrier will accept that style.. Its worlds better than the clutch setup

I totally agree but I'm not in the market. I was trying to explain (with as little detail as possible) the differences between types.

[Brewhedd]

Originally Posted by bigmurph

If I was the OP I would call some local salvage yards and see about picking up a complete rear diff.

X2

[BigH]

Choosing A Limited Slip Differential

[m2kamp]

Sorry to hear about the failure.

Now is a good time to upgrade.

Ram dropped the 10.5 AAM axle for the 11.5 AAM axle for all HD 2014+ Gas or Diesel trucks. Chevy still uses the 10.5 for their gas trucks.

The limited slip in the 11.5 axle is mechanical/gear actuated, so no worries about worn out clutches and no oil additives needed.

You should be able to source one from salvage with 4.10 or 3.73 gears. Of course, avoid the 3.42 diesel gear ratio.

EDIT: Look for an 11.5 axle from a 3500 as it will be compatible with your leaf spring rear suspension. Added bonus if you can locate a complete axle is larger disc brakes.

[stuart38npb]

I had my 2003 2500 SLT ext cab done about 2 years ago; bearings, gears (3.73), seals and synthetic oil. Dealer charged roughly $2800. Probably could have had it done cheaper at a local shop, but needed it done quickly. Later read that this is common for Dodge trucks.

[drmoparPHD]

Suggest locating a complete unit from Salvage yards. In California, in Sacramento, there is a Truck only yard with tons of Dodge/Ram units. About $350.00 for complete set up with your choice of ratios and "Sure Grip" diff. Was the failure lack of oil?, if not, you housing may be distorted and you will again damage the rear end. Just a thought from a 40 year Mopar mechanic.

[Awilson]

Originally Posted by drmoparPHD

Suggest locating a complete unit from Salvage yards. In California, in Sacramento, there is a Truck only yard with tons of Dodge/Ram units. About $350.00 for complete set up with your choice of ratios and "Sure Grip" diff. Was the failure lack of oil?, if not, you housing may be distorted and you will again damage the rear end. Just a thought from a 40 year Mopar mechanic.

Excellent advice!! I’ve never had a 2500 diff fail other than driver abuse, lack of oil and having a ‘mechanic’ that changed the pinion seal and way over torqued the pinion shaft on the crush bearing. Toasted the whole differential. Replaced with a salvage sure grip. Whole thing installed was under $1,000.

[elchilero53]

Don't know if you need a 100% rebuild/replace but a complete rebuild will run close to $2000. I had a 1990 F150 that required a full rebuild of the rear end in 2005. It cost me $2200 parts and labor. In my case, EVERYTHING had to be replaced. The only part that could be reused was the ring gear. The previous owner had gotten water into the differential and didn't flush it. I had replaced all of the fluids when I bought the truck used with 70K miles.

[Oaklevel]

I'd consider getting a low mileage unit from a salvage yard. But regardless costs will vary greatly depending on your area and labor rates......... $500 to $3000.