Could a WD hitch provide backup safety in case of trailer disconnection?

[AKC]

Sorry for the awkward title. I was just thinking about this after reading through another thread. Just to forestall any concerns -- I always use my chains (actually cables in my case), crossed, and breakaway brake, and I double check every aspect of my trailer connection, actually triple check it, before I travel. So I'm not looking for an excuse to cut corners with safety.

What I'm really looking for is something that might reduce the residual anxiety I have around trailering. I am one of those people who is always thinking about all of the bad things that might happen.

OK, so my question is this: let's say the unthinkable happens and somehow your trailer coupler comes off the hitch ball. Would the weight distribution bars help keep the two connected, even before the safety chains had to engage?

[Platokidd]

I have a 4pt Equilizer and the bars would slide right off the camper.

[NavyLCDR]

Not on my classic round bar and chain system. The reason on my system is because the chains are connected to the trailer tongue a-frame by "hanging" on open topped hooks. If the trailer became disconnected, it would be very easy for the chains connecting the weight distribution bars to just pop off those hooks.

Other system, of course, would be different.

[AKC]

OK fair enough, I hadn't thought about how there are different types of systems.

I have a trunion system:
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight_Dist...URT/C24UR.html
Hmm, I see I can't post a picture but you can see it at the link.

The metal bars slide into receivers and are locked in place with a pin. I upgraded the pins after the safety wire in the original ones bent. The the chains are connected to hooks, you snap the hooks up and lock them into place with another pin.

The point of failure I imagined if the WD hitch was having to carry the load would be the pins that hold the bars in place: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't imagine they are super strong even though I upgraded. But I still wonder if it might hold for a bit.

[NavyLCDR]

The chains would just pop off the hooks before the pins would fail. Trailer disconnects from hitch. Trailer tongue falls. There is no longer the upward pulling tension on the chains at the end of the bars, so they are free to just pop off the hooks.

[Platokidd]

Would think this would be the weak spot.

[AKC]

Originally Posted by Platokidd

Would think this would be the weak spot.


Attachment 269601

I thought that at first, as that pin seems weaker, but that pin is keeping the holders from snapping down. I guess I don't know what sort of motion or pressure would cause them to snap down. If the coupler came off the ball, I guess the trailer would want to slide back, and maybe that would do it? I still feel like, in that case, I'd have more pressure on the pin that was holding the metal bars in, as those just slide in and out and I guess would want to slide back if the trailer pulled back. I can't visualize what the holders like you pointed at would want to do in that case.

I could upgrade those pins also. I wonder if all pins were upgraded, if it would then be some use in case of a trailer disconnect.

[AKC]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

The chains would just pop off the hooks before the pins would fail. Trailer disconnects from hitch. Trailer tongue falls. There is no longer the upward pulling tension on the chains at the end of the bars, so they are free to just pop off the hooks.

Oh, I see... that makes sense...

[DougW]

On the bar and chain style of equalizer hitches there is significant down pressure on the coupler to ball connection and that pressure is kept there by the spring bars. It would be extremely difficult for the coupler to come off the ball while the bars were still in place. If it were to come off, I agree the bars would provide little to no resistance to the trailer slowing down and coming against the chains.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Platokidd

I have a 4pt Equilizer and the bars would slide right off the camper.

Yep.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by DougW

On the bar and chain style of equalizer hitches there is significant down pressure on the coupler to ball connection and that pressure is kept there by the spring bars. It would be extremely difficult for the coupler to come off the ball while the bars were still in place. If it were to come off, I agree the bars would provide little to no resistance to the trailer slowing down and coming against the chains.

In addition, when you connect the WDH, you normally lower the coupler onto the ball, close the latch and pin it, then raise the trailer with the tongue jack which also pulls the rear of the tow vehicle upward. This is so you can connect the chains from the bars to the bracket hooks with less effort. This has the added advantage of guaranteeing that the latch is engaged and holding the coupler onto the ball securely.

[AKC]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

In addition, when you connect the WDH, you normally lower the coupler onto the ball, close the latch and pin it, then raise the trailer with the tongue jack which also pulls the rear of the tow vehicle upward. This is so you can connect the chains from the bars to the bracket hooks with less effort. This has the added advantage of guaranteeing that the latch is engaged and holding the coupler onto the ball securely.

Yes!!! I hadn't realized this added benefit of the WD hitch when I got it, but I'm super happy now that I realize how that works out.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by AKC

Yes!!! I hadn't realized this added benefit of the WD hitch when I got it, but I'm super happy now that I realize how that works out.

The usual reason for trailers coming off the ball is (in no particular order):
1. Ball is too small for the coupler.
2. The latch is not really latched - mechanical malfunction of the latch mechanism.
3. The latch was never opened completely and the latch appears to be closed all the way, but it is actually sitting on top of the ball rather than latching under the ball.

Doing the "lift check" when raising to connect the chains to the hooks helps ensure none of those conditions exist. But that is just a single point in time static check. A whole plethora of other failures could occur when towing.

[AKC]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

A whole plethora of other failures could occur when towing.

I know. Believe me, I know. I have watched way too many trailering disaster videos, although I've sworn off them now because I don't think they are actually helping anything. They are just making me worry more.

It's part of the reason I asked this question -- knowing how many things could go wrong, I was hoping that maybe the WD hitch set up might be able to at least mitigate one of them. Again, I know that's what the chains are for, but the more backups the better, right?

ETA: it's also the reason I post a bunch of the questions that I do -- I am doing everything in my power to make our trailering safe. For me, for passengers, for other drivers.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by AKC

I know. Believe me, I know. I have watched way too many trailering disaster videos, although I've sworn off them now because I don't think they are actually helping anything. They are just making me worry more.

It's part of the reason I asked this question -- knowing how many things could go wrong, I was hoping that maybe the WD hitch set up might be able to at least mitigate one of them. Again, I know that's what the chains are for, but the more backups the better, right?

ETA: it's also the reason I post a bunch of the questions that I do -- I am doing everything in my power to make our trailering safe. For me, for passengers, for other drivers.

If you have to worry, your time would be better spent worrying about tires. There are several aspects:

• Did you check pressures before you started each day's drive?
• How old are they? Did you check the cryptic date code to make sure they weren't two years old when you got the trailer? Are they more than five years old?
• Are they made by a reputable manufacturer or an Asian manufacturer with a reputation for poor quality (e.g., Castle Rock)?
• Did you damage a sidewall when you took that corner too closely and ran a tire over the curb?
• Probably more...

[UT_Grandpa]

If you forgot to put the pin in your hitch that secures the bar with the ball on it (plus the WDH stuff). The whole thing could slide off on an uphill pull or a sudden surge forward in acceleration. This is a small possibility as the WDH puts a lot of pressure on the bar in the receiver in order to do it's job.

When I hitch up, I create a "sterile" environment. I don't let anyone help me, I do not talk to anyone while doing it, and I touch with my hands everything that needs to be connected.

To test the lights I turn on the emergency flashers and park lights on the tow vehicle. This will light everything on the outside of the trailer.

Questions are always better than repairs.....

[Chuck_S]

At the risk of minor thread drift: Do not assume your dealer set up the trailer properly.

The breakaway cable that activates the brakes should be the LAST thing in the chain of events. You need plenty of slack in that cable -- I've seen some that are much too short -- it should not activate the brakes if the trailer is in anyway connected to the truck. Hitch/ball failure -> chains failure -> brakes activate when the cable activates the switch.

-- Chuck

[AKC]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

The breakaway cable that activates the brakes should be the LAST thing in the chain of events. You need plenty of slack in that cable -- I've seen some that are much too short -- it should not activate the brakes if the trailer is in anyway connected to the truck. Hitch/ball failure -> chains failure -> brakes activate when the cable activates the switch.

-- Chuck

Since I'm the OP, I will respond, and if it's thread drift, that's fine.

What you say isn't how I think it should happen. I think the safety brakes should activate while the trailer is still attached. I don't want my trailer to have to be loose in the highway behind me before the brakes come on. I can imagine it completely tipping over in that case. Obviously if it's nose down and travelling loose at 65 mph it needs to stop, but I would like it to try to stop well before that.

If the brakes come on while the trailer is still attached, then the trailer should pull the truck to a stop, or at least slow it down enough that I can pull it to a stop. I don't want my chains to have to snap before that happens. Particularly since I can imagine that the electrical cord will have pulled out before the chains pull taut, and so I won't be able to brake the trailer at all. If it's still attached, and braking itself, that seems like the best thing in that scenario.

The second my trailer comes off the hitch, I want those brakes applying.

[Chuck_S]

Absolutely not!

Connected by only the chains and the brakes locked -- which is what happens when the brake disconnect happens -- will be a disaster for you and the trailer. If it's hanging on the chains gentle application of the brakes may save the trailer. At least there's a chance with controlled brake application -- your brake pedal still works..

The purpose is to stop the runaway -- completely disconnected -- trailer as quickly as possible, not bring it to a stop behind your truck. It's there to minimize collateral damage not save your trailer.

-- Chuck

[elchilero53]

Originally Posted by UT_Grandpa

"When I hitch up, I create a "sterile" environment. I don't let anyone help me, I do not talk to anyone while doing it, and I touch with my hands everything that needs to be connected."

This, right here. You should have a "punch list" and a rigid procedure for coupling and decoupling the trailer. I had one guy in a campground try to help me uncouple the trailer and he had no idea what he was doing. So instead of getting mad, I made him stop, thanked him for his help then taught him the proper procedure. Made a new friend and he learned a new skill set.

OH, and the newer trucks have light-check systems activated from the screen in the dashboard. If the trailer lights aren't connected, it will tell you. If there is a faulty light, you will see it the minute you watch the trailer lights cycle.