Coupler sticking to hitch ball

[67L48]

There was a very similar thread a few weeks ago.

I also have this problem with a new trailer. I have found that my ball needs to be placed precisely in the middle of the coupler to be released. Otherwise, even with the latch disengaged, my ball will not be released.

My ball catches on the front of the receiver, not on the latching mechanism.

I greased things up and it has helped quite a bit, but I still need to back my truck up about 1/16-1/8 inch. I use regular red multi-purpose automotive grease.

[elchilero53]

Originally Posted by Stlcaly

Use liberally but watch out cause it tends to get everywhere. Always makes it easier to release

Been using this stuff for 20+ years and, though expensive, is the best I've used so far. I have used bearing grease but I like this better.


As for releasing the tongue from the ball, this is perfectly normal with every trailer I've owned. You just need to put some slack back in the connection and the tongue will come free in a snap.

[youroo]

Lube with "Vaseline" clean up is easy! Youroo!!

[elchilero53]

Originally Posted by youroo

Lube with "Vaseline" clean up is easy! Youroo!!

At least it's cheap but gets runny and drippy when too warm!

[DieselDrax]

I've never found the issue/cause to be lack of or needing grease, the "problem" has already been mentioned, either ball too far forward or rearward in the coupler. Remember folks, this is a round ball in a round socket, not squares with straight edges that slide straight up and down.

When I couple and uncouple my process is basically the same, I have my ball maybe 1/4" or so forward of the center of the coupler, as I lower the trailer onto the ball it slides in without much effort as the coupler lightly rides down the front of the ball. I can then lock the slide lock for the coupler into place effortlessly. Without the ball being up against the inside front of the coupler the slide lock won't go all the way in and I end up having to roll the truck forward a fraction of an inch.

When uncoupling I will chock the trailer tires and then make sure the truck/ball are again putting some slight pressure on the inside front of the coupler, the slide lock releases without issue and the ball usually slides out as I'm jacking up due to the weight of the truck pulling it down. On the rare occasion that the ball doesn't want to come out easily I just need to release the parking brake momentarily with the truck in park so that the truck moves a fraction of an inch back and out it comes. Most of the time I don't have to do this, though.

Just part of the learning process and trying to make the job more efficient.

My $0.02.

[JCDMeyer]

Couple things that I do.

1. Yes, use grease. You can buy a small tube of it at any auto parts store. Buy the cheapest axle grease in a resealable tub. Use disposable gloves and two fingers and smear some inside the receiver. If you are using a weight distribution hitch you'll need to apply grease where the bars attach to the hitch assembly.

Cover or clean the ball after you disconnect the trailer. Otherwise you will be getting grease on your pants every time you walk by.

2. You said that you were new... There are youtube videos on how to level your trailer.

Level side to side first using blocks or those giant lego thingys.

Chock your wheels.

Disconnect trailer. I NEVER disconnected the the chains until after I know the trailer won't roll. Especially if I am a grade. If the trailer could roll forward I definitely chock all four wheels.

3. Trouble releasing the hitch. After chocking the wheels I will pull my truck forward ever so slightly and this will do the trick. The ball needs to be as far forward as possible to take pressure off the locking mechanism. Grease will help a lot.

4. After I raise the trailer off of the ball...and it's not going to roll away I will remove the chains, power supply and emergency brake cable. I then pull my truck forward and cover the greasy ball with a plastic bag.

Next I use a Leveling app on my smart phone to raise or lower the tongue until level.

5. Next I use blocks and lower the stabilizing jacks. I use enough blocks so my jacks only extend about 1/2 to 3/4.

6. I use my surge protector to check the safety of the power supply and if it checks out I attach the shoreline, open any slides, check the refrigerator. (mine sometimes has to be turned off and on switching to electric) extend awning.

7. After you hook up the water and waste hoses unpack your favorite camp chair and beverage sit by the fire and start camping.

8. You can find hundreds of HOW TO YouTube videos on every topic.

[youroo]

We check the Post Power 1st before we pull/back into site! Bad Elect.makes for a Bad Trip! Youroo!!

[bareftn]

Originally Posted by bikendan

You have to pull the ball forward in the coupler, to release it.

X2 no other safe way is always choke wheels and place in drive then back never let tv roll back it puts pressure on the wrong spot to unhook

[bareftn]

I always carry a cheap box from the dollar store sandwich bags and cover the ball with oneand when I hookup just toss away

[kwatt57]

I wanted to add a group thanks for those I missed. Alot of good advice from you guys. One common thread here that probably applies alot to my situation is the odd angles. My TV is a 2006 Grand Cherokee and the reciever kinda points a little skyward under no load.

[PamJohnZephyr]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

I've never found the issue/cause to be lack of or needing grease, the "problem" has already been mentioned, either ball too far forward or rearward in the coupler. Remember folks, this is a round ball in a round socket, not squares with straight edges that slide straight up and down.

When I couple and uncouple my process is basically the same, I have my ball maybe 1/4" or so forward of the center of the coupler, as I lower the trailer onto the ball it slides in without much effort as the coupler lightly rides down the front of the ball. I can then lock the slide lock for the coupler into place effortlessly. Without the ball being up against the inside front of the coupler the slide lock won't go all the way in and I end up having to roll the truck forward a fraction of an inch.

When uncoupling I will chock the trailer tires and then make sure the truck/ball are again putting some slight pressure on the inside front of the coupler, the slide lock releases without issue and the ball usually slides out as I'm jacking up due to the weight of the truck pulling it down. On the rare occasion that the ball doesn't want to come out easily I just need to release the parking brake momentarily with the truck in park so that the truck moves a fraction of an inch back and out it comes. Most of the time I don't have to do this, though.

Just part of the learning process and trying to make the job more efficient.

My $0.02.

My experience exactly!

[ProfChuck]

I have found that after jacking up the trailer to get the WD hitch off (we have the equalizer) that just lowering the trailer back down until the weight is slightly back on the hitch lets me slide the release back pretty easily almost every time. Once back, I just raise the trailer until the ball pops out. Going to try a new lube this year called "fluid film" on the ball. It is available at Lowe's. From my experimentation on my tractor, it looks like it will work well and not be very messy. We'll see.

[packrat48]

When hitch doesn't want to come off ball I usually just put truck in neutral and it pops off.

[kwatt57]

Thanks again everyone for all the great advice. I started applying a little grease on the ball, I decided
to do this mostly to reduce excessive wear on the ball/ coupler. So far the coupler lock has been operating smoothly now. perhaps the incident that cuased me to start this thread was due to poor positioning between TV and RV. But the coupler lock was pretty rusty and it moves pretty freely now. Thanks again for all the replies!