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Old 03-15-2017, 07:42 PM   #61
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I have never done the weights on scales and have none too close to me either. Do think it is needed for my truck? My trailer is about #4500 fully loaded. My F150 is rated at 11,000 pounds towing according to Ford.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:03 PM   #62
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Dealer WDH Setup Needed Serious Adjustments

It's nice to know for sure how you're loaded, but It looks like you have a pretty good marge of safety.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:26 PM   #63
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I like the lack of proper torque horror stories, scary! When we picked up our 5er we swapped out for an air ride Reese Goose Box, the over equipt parts changer came out with a 3/4" air impact gun, he didn't know what to say when I pulled out my torque wrench and told him he can take off the pin box, but I'll put the new one on. He was even more baffled when I started to rattle off torque specs. for the size and grade of the bolts we were about to install.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:55 PM   #64
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If the dealer is installing the WDH, do what I did - get the installation manual, take your own torque wrench and set the torque on all the bolts. I did that when I had new tires installed, too.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:10 PM   #65
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I'm very impressed with all the knowledge here, but some of us (me) are not capable of doing this kind of work. Where would you take your truck/trailer to be sure it's done correctly? Do 'some' RV repair garages
actually install the hitches properly or is that a lost cause?
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:55 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by zorky View Post
I have never done the weights on scales and have none too close to me either. Do think it is needed for my truck? My trailer is about #4500 fully loaded. My F150 is rated at 11,000 pounds towing according to Ford.
zorky, F150s come in all kinds of configurations.

Start with the truck's payload capacity first, cause nearly all tow vehicles run out of that way before they get close to towing max.

How did you get the 11,000lbs number?
That number sounds like an Ecoboost with the Max Tow and HD Payload packages.
Does yours have those packages?
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:17 PM   #67
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We just got our new to us 08' Roo with a WDH put onto our Tahoe at the dealer. It is leaning pretty far forward onto the hitch. (See photo) We are brand new to owning a travel trailer and in Florida. Any suggestions as to where to go and what to do to level out the hitch and to see the weights? I don't know it it's okay to hold up a scale while I adjust and just really don't even know where to begin to get it right. Thanks!
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:30 PM   #68
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Attachment 137834

We just got our new to us 08' Roo with a WDH put onto our Tahoe at the dealer. It is leaning pretty far forward onto the hitch. (See photo) We are brand new to owning a travel trailer and in Florida. Any suggestions as to where to go and what to do to level out the hitch and to see the weights? I don't know it it's okay to hold up a scale while I adjust and just really don't even know where to begin to get it right. Thanks!
Not sure about your situation but don't forget to latch the access door on your water heater... It's open
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:31 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by jmaroney View Post
Attachment 137834

We just got our new to us 08' Roo with a WDH put onto our Tahoe at the dealer. It is leaning pretty far forward onto the hitch. (See photo) We are brand new to owning a travel trailer and in Florida. Any suggestions as to where to go and what to do to level out the hitch and to see the weights? I don't know it it's okay to hold up a scale while I adjust and just really don't even know where to begin to get it right. Thanks!
That really doesn't look to bad . you want the TT a bit lower in the front at least an inch . how does it tow ? if you try to get perfectly level you may develop sway issues
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:10 PM   #70
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That really doesn't look to bad . you want the TT a bit lower in the front at least an inch . how does it tow ? if you try to get perfectly level you may develop sway issues
I disagree. It should be as level as possible, not leaning down (although tongue high is worse than tongue low). By level, I mean it needs to be an equal height off the ground at the front and rear of the frame. Ideally it should be setup with the trailer and TV on a perfectly level surface, but it's OK if it's just a "reasonably" level surface.

In order to raise the tongue, you'll need to raise the hitch head that the WD bars go into. If it's mounted as high as it will go with the shank you have, you'll need to get a new shank to allow the hitch head to be mounted higher.

What kind of WDH did you get? Can you post a pic of the hitch head up close?
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:26 PM   #71
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You also look to be squatting. You will want the trailer and the tv level if you can to keep weight on the front wheels to allow for good steering. Let is know the WDH info and we can tell you more.
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:42 PM   #72
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We are actually draining, sanitizing and flushing all the water tanks right now. That's why the water heater door is open . We are parked in front of our home, not where we store it. I will post a pic of the hitch below. And thank you!!! Click image for larger version

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Old 05-14-2017, 03:52 PM   #73
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That's an E2 WDH. It's a cheaper Chinese made version of the US made 4pt Equal-i-zer.
Same company, it's just not as capable as the Equal-i-zer.
It only has two friction points vs the four points of the Equal-i-zer. It's fine for smaller and lighter trailers.

You can find videos on setting it up correctly.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:53 PM   #74
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I would raise the shank up one notch as well as the L brackets. I too recommend going to equalizer's website and downloading their documentation on how to setup the hitch. I think you'll fine you need to distribute more weight to the front of the tow vehicle.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/eq...anual_0111.pdf
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:10 PM   #75
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I would raise the shank up one notch as well as the L brackets. I too recommend going to equalizer's website and downloading their documentation on how to setup the hitch. I think you'll fine you need to distribute more weight to the front of the tow vehicle.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/eq...anual_0111.pdf
That pdf is for the 4pt Equal-i-zer, not for the OP's E2 WDH.
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4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:46 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by jmaroney View Post
Attachment 137834

We just got our new to us 08' Roo with a WDH put onto our Tahoe at the dealer. It is leaning pretty far forward onto the hitch. (See photo) We are brand new to owning a travel trailer and in Florida. Any suggestions as to where to go and what to do to level out the hitch and to see the weights? I don't know it it's okay to hold up a scale while I adjust and just really don't even know where to begin to get it right. Thanks!
IMO you may be able to add some spacers if your hitch has them, so you can pull more tension on the bars and to get them a little more parallel with the frame and at the same time you'd be raising the height because the bars would be under more tension. I have a round bar Husky which might not work the same way however. Your drop seems about right, you are low on both the vehicle and the trailer which allows you to come up with tension on the bars. It's just that you need to adjust the bars so they are under more tension when you get them parallel to the frame. If you can't get more bar tension, you might need a hitch that can handle more tongue weight.
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:57 PM   #77
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I believe the safety chains should go under the hitch bars. I am not that familiar with that hitch though.
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:46 PM   #78
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IMO you may be able to add some spacers if your hitch has them, so you can pull more tension on the bars and to get them a little more parallel with the frame and at the same time you'd be raising the height because the bars would be under more tension. I have a round bar Husky which might not work the same way however. Your drop seems about right, you are low on both the vehicle and the trailer which allows you to come up with tension on the bars. It's just that you need to adjust the bars so they are under more tension when you get them parallel to the frame. If you can't get more bar tension, you might need a hitch that can handle more tongue weight.


These are great and super helpful. I do have room to raise the hitch, just need to figure out how to do that given that the dealership put it on with a compression wrench.
Thanks everyone, gonna be on here for all kinds of stuff going forward!!
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:17 PM   #79
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I ended up getting a 3ft breaker bar. Best investments along with sockets that fit the hitch. You can also use them on the lugs and water heater. I have BlueOx and that helped to hook it up right and easier to take it off without busting knuckles on the trailer.

Generally speaking the closer to stock level you can get on front and back wheels the better with the WDH. If you cannot get there the closer the front and rear measurements are off (delta from stock) to each other the more stable you will be.

Usually it is ok to be slightly down vs. Up on the ball for the TT. Level is best. Don't know your specific brand but sway control really helps as well.

If you buy new etrailer.com was really helpful in figuring out what to buy.

Best of luck!
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:17 PM   #80
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That pdf is for the 4pt Equal-i-zer, not for the OP's E2 WDH.


In terms of the weight distribution setup there's no difference between the two, but if it makes you feel better here's the PDF or the fast way e2. The two hitches are the same other than the additional sway control at the trunion connections on the 4pt.

http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-con...tions_0212.pdf
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