Dealer WDH Setup Needed Serious Adjustments

[K2Kevin]

Originally Posted by jmaroney

These are great and super helpful. I do have room to raise the hitch, just need to figure out how to do that given that the dealership put it on with a compression wrench.
Thanks everyone, gonna be on here for all kinds of stuff going forward!!

It's all about those spacers (washers you see on the top of hitch) and height of the shank (ball bracket). You are definitely off, leveling your vehicle (bring the rear up) will help level that trailer. I'm pretty sure uhaul shops also have people that know a lot of WDH, if the dealer is not "available".

[TKPINSC]

Originally Posted by jmaroney

Attachment 137834

We just got our new to us 08' Roo with a WDH put onto our Tahoe at the dealer. It is leaning pretty far forward onto the hitch. (See photo) We are brand new to owning a travel trailer and in Florida. Any suggestions as to where to go and what to do to level out the hitch and to see the weights? I don't know it it's okay to hold up a scale while I adjust and just really don't even know where to begin to get it right. Thanks!

Typical etiquette at a truck scale is to weigh and drive off. Make your adjustments and re weigh. First weigh is $10 to $12 and each additional re weigh is only another $1 or $2.

Try to find a CAT scale, or similar with three zones that will allow you to weigh front and rear axle and trailer separately. I would also get the loaded truck without trailer for future reference.

[itat]

jmaroney, if I were you, I'd start over to set up your E2 from scratch. You first have to set the ball at the right height to match the height of the coupler when the trailer is level. Then go from there. Adding washers will tilt the hitch head down and without changing the L brackets, that will lift the back end of your TV and the tongue of the trailer.

The dealer that I bought mine from (used) didn't set it up very well and I ended up having to lower the L brackets and readjust the hitch head. (My TT has a bottom-mount or "underslung" coupler so the hitch head needs to be lower than most setups.) It's still very slightly high so I ordered a longer shank to allow me to try dropping the hitch head one notch but I'll have to then readjust the # of washers and maybe the L brackets, too. It's a bit of experimenting but you can get it dialed in really well.

[jmaroney]

Originally Posted by itat

jmaroney, if I were you, I'd start over to set up your E2 from scratch. You first have to set the ball at the right height to match the height of the coupler when the trailer is level. Then go from there. Adding washers will tilt the hitch head down and without changing the L brackets, that will lift the back end of your TV and the tongue of the trailer.

The dealer that I bought mine from (used) didn't set it up very well and I ended up having to lower the L brackets and readjust the hitch head. (My TT has a bottom-mount or "underslung" coupler so the hitch head needs to be lower than most setups.) It's still very slightly high so I ordered a longer shank to allow me to try dropping the hitch head one notch but I'll have to then readjust the # of washers and maybe the L brackets, too. It's a bit of experimenting but you can get it dialed in really well.

That's great advice, I'm all over it, basically a re-do and get it set up right.

Thanks

[youroo]

Originally Posted by uhduh camping

I believe the safety chains should go under the hitch bars. I am not that familiar with that hitch though.

Correct! Youroo!!

[foretm]

Originally Posted by jmaroney

That's great advice, I'm all over it, basically a re-do and get it set up right.

Thanks

Let us know once you have and if it helped as well as what your new numbers are. In addition to a better setup, you'll know how it's configured in case you have issues or need adjustments. I chose to set mine up myself and it was the best decision I made.

[Tim Mayer]

Thank you for this information and trying to help. We recently bought a 2013 Flagstaff 27'Superlite and tow with a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 that has a 6700 lbs towing capacity. The trailer sways so much we are worried we will need to sell. We have Reese WDH and a sway bar. We have it where the hitch is 1" above the ball when they are lined up. Everything should work but we still have a terrible sway. Today I did weighing and I have the results but don't know what they tell me. Any further advice would be appreciated. The weight results are:
My trucks towing capacity GFWR 3950, GRWR 3950, GVWR 7000
First weigh (all hooked up) Steer axle 3180, Drive axle 3440, Trailer axle 5960
Second weigh Steer axle on scale 1, Drive axle scale 2, trailer tongue scale 3, trailer axle scale 4.
Steer axle 3220, Drive axle 2500, Trailer axle 6660
We love the trailer and do not want to have to sell it.

[TKPINSC]

Originally Posted by Tim Mayer

Thank you for this information and trying to help. We recently bought a 2013 Flagstaff 27'Superlite and tow with a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 that has a 6700 lbs towing capacity. The trailer sways so much we are worried we will need to sell. We have Reese WDH and a sway bar. We have it where the hitch is 1" above the ball when they are lined up. Everything should work but we still have a terrible sway. Today I did weighing and I have the results but don't know what they tell me. Any further advice would be appreciated. The weight results are:
My trucks towing capacity GFWR 3950, GRWR 3950, GVWR 7000
First weigh (all hooked up) Steer axle 3180, Drive axle 3440, Trailer axle 5960
Second weigh Steer axle on scale 1, Drive axle scale 2, trailer tongue scale 3, trailer axle scale 4.
Steer axle 3220, Drive axle 2500, Trailer axle 6660
We love the trailer and do not want to have to sell it.

More specific details about the brand, model and wdh bar ratings would be helpful.

The ball usually needs to start an in or so higher than the top of the tongue when the trailer frame is level.

The weights have more to do with returning the front axle to its original weight. If I am interpreting your numbers correctly your hooked weight , assuming you have the wdh bars under tension, leaves the front axle lighter than when unloaded. This will result in poor steering "feel" resulting in constant steering corrections you may be referring to as sway. You need more tension on your spring bars resulting in shifting additional weight from the rear axle to the front and trailer axles.

Since your trailer is approaching your trucks capacity it is trickier to dial it in to the sweet spot. A test you can do in your driveway that isn't as accurate as the scale but is a lot more convenient is measure from the fender lip over the front axle to the ground empty and again when hitched with the wdh bars tensioned. The goal is to get the hitched height the same or very slightly, but not lower than the empty weight.

By sway bar do you mean the friction plate between the two small balls, one next to the tow ball and on on the side of the frame? If so the hand screw that applies pressure probably isn't tight enough. It needs to be tight enough it is hard for a strong guy or impossible for an old weak guy like me to push the ends of the sway plate together. If one friction plate isn't enough and it may not be for your tv and tt combination you can add a second one for around $50.

[Rhody]

Originally Posted by Tim Mayer

Thank you for this information and trying to help. We recently bought a 2013 Flagstaff 27'Superlite and tow with a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 that has a 6700 lbs towing capacity. The trailer sways so much we are worried we will need to sell. We have Reese WDH and a sway bar. We have it where the hitch is 1" above the ball when they are lined up. Everything should work but we still have a terrible sway. Today I did weighing and I have the results but don't know what they tell me. Any further advice would be appreciated. The weight results are:
My trucks towing capacity GFWR 3950, GRWR 3950, GVWR 7000
First weigh (all hooked up) Steer axle 3180, Drive axle 3440, Trailer axle 5960
Second weigh Steer axle on scale 1, Drive axle scale 2, trailer tongue scale 3, trailer axle scale 4.
Steer axle 3220, Drive axle 2500, Trailer axle 6660
We love the trailer and do not want to have to sell it.

Take a look at Husky Centerline...Amazing Technology....

[Tim Mayer]

Your help is really appreciated. Here are the specs on my hitch:
Reese 2" hitch ball
Model 54970
Wt. Dist. 15000 lbs trailer wt.
Tongue wt. 1500 lbs or 1000 lbs depending on which hole the pin is through

Reese Hitch V5 rating
800 lbs wt. spring bar
10000 lbs gross trailer wt.
800 lbs max hitch wt.

I have the friction bar. Maybe a second bar on the opposite side would help?
I don't know how I could increase the tension on the stabilizer bars. No chains. I raise trailer until the bar rests on the bracket.

[TKPINSC]

Originally Posted by Tim Mayer

Your help is really appreciated. Here are the specs on my hitch:
Reese 2" hitch ball
Model 54970
Wt. Dist. 15000 lbs trailer wt.
Tongue wt. 1500 lbs or 1000 lbs depending on which hole the pin is through

Reese Hitch V5 rating
800 lbs wt. spring bar
10000 lbs gross trailer wt.
800 lbs max hitch wt.

I have the friction bar. Maybe a second bar on the opposite side would help?
I don't know how I could increase the tension on the stabilizer bars. No chains. I raise trailer until the bar rests on the bracket.

Check your ball size and tongue size. Many trailers your size use a larger ball. A smaller ball would allow a bunch of slop possibly causing your issues.

[Rhody]

Originally Posted by Tim Mayer

Your help is really appreciated. Here are the specs on my hitch:
Reese 2" hitch ball
Model 54970
Wt. Dist. 15000 lbs trailer wt.
Tongue wt. 1500 lbs or 1000 lbs depending on which hole the pin is through

Reese Hitch V5 rating
800 lbs wt. spring bar
10000 lbs gross trailer wt.
800 lbs max hitch wt.

I have the friction bar. Maybe a second bar on the opposite side would help?
I don't know how I could increase the tension on the stabilizer bars. No chains. I raise trailer until the bar rests on the bracket.

Tim...

Not to burst your Bubble, but you get what you pay for.
My dad back in the 70's had that same Reese system was a Sway Monster!

Please Watch this and check out all of the Data..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz-rgndtVbw

Rhody

[TKPINSC]

Originally Posted by Tim Mayer

Your help is really appreciated. Here are the specs on my hitch:
Reese 2" hitch ball
Model 54970
Wt. Dist. 15000 lbs trailer wt.
Tongue wt. 1500 lbs or 1000 lbs depending on which hole the pin is through

Reese Hitch V5 rating
800 lbs wt. spring bar
10000 lbs gross trailer wt.
800 lbs max hitch wt.

I have the friction bar. Maybe a second bar on the opposite side would help?
I don't know how I could increase the tension on the stabilizer bars. No chains. I raise trailer until the bar rests on the bracket.

You adjust bars that rest in brackets by tilting the head the bars mount in after adjusting the brackets so the bars are parallel with the frame. If the head isn't tilted backwards at all you probably need more tilt, pointing the bars further downward when loose creating additional tension when lifted parallel with the frame in the brackets.

Also check your ball. Typically a trailer is that size has a 2 5/16 ball.

[TKPINSC]

Originally Posted by Tim Mayer

Your help is really appreciated. Here are the specs on my hitch:
Reese 2" hitch ball
Model 54970
Wt. Dist. 15000 lbs trailer wt.
Tongue wt. 1500 lbs or 1000 lbs depending on which hole the pin is through

Reese Hitch V5 rating
800 lbs wt. spring bar
10000 lbs gross trailer wt.
800 lbs max hitch wt.

I have the friction bar. Maybe a second bar on the opposite side would help?
I don't know how I could increase the tension on the stabilizer bars. No chains. I raise trailer until the bar rests on the bracket.

You adjust bars that rest in brackets by tilting the head the bars mount in after adjusting the brackets so the bars are parallel with the frame. If the head isn't tilted backwards at all you probably need more tilt, pointing the bars further downward when loose creating additional tension when lifted parallel with the frame in the brackets.

Also check your ball. Typically a trailer is that size has a 2 5/16 ball.

Don't buy a different hitch until this is properly dialed in. Most hitches will work on a rig your size when properly set up and non will work if not set up properly.

[Rhody]

At the end of the day...You Get What You Pay For...

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Rhody

At the end of the day...You Get What You Pay For...

And if you just tell your dealer that you want a WDH, they generally install the cheapest they can get away with. Been there, done that with the first TT I bought. Was good for that TT but anything heavier, forget it.

[Rhody]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

And if you just tell your dealer that you want a WDH, they generally install the cheapest they can get away with. Been there, done that with the first TT I bought. Was good for that TT but anything heavier, forget it.

That is not always true, but yes it can happen.
I told them I wanted the Husky Centerline, but was sold the wrong size bars!
My Tacoma pulls just as good if not better than any Chevy or Ford of 1/2 ton V6 size.

Rhody

[JCDMeyer]

Originally Posted by Rhody

That is not always true, but yes it can happen.
I told them I wanted the Husky Centerline, but was sold the wrong size bars!
My Tacoma pulls just as good if not better than any Chevy or Ford of 1/2 ton V6 size.

Rhody[emoji106]

There's a rumor that Toyota is in talks with Caterpillar about a building a diesel for HD pickup trucks. Toyota certainly has the brains to help Caterpillar meet emissions standards.

If it happens.. Toyota will make huge inroads into the HD truck market.

Fingers crossed....

[TKPINSC]

Originally Posted by JCDMeyer

There's a rumor that Toyota is in talks with Caterpillar about a building a diesel for HD pickup trucks. Toyota certainly has the brains to help Caterpillar meet emissions standards.
5
If it happens.. Toyota will make huge inroads into the HD truck market.

Fingers crossed....

Why not use motors from Hino? They already own them.

[Boomer58]

I am glad I came upon this thread. I have some questions about our new trailer and hitch. We have a 2014 F-150 crew cab 4wd with a 5.0, 355 rear end. We purchased a new Surveyor 243 RBS. It came with a Fastway E2 Trunnion sway control/weight distribution hitch. The dealer set up the hitch. The truck sits pretty level when the trailer is hooked up and it looks like it is set up right. I have driven large trucks all of my career ( with a CDL) but have never driven a pickup with a TT. It seems that sometimes the trailer wants to take the truck for a ride rather than the other way around. I went down to the landfill recently "without the trailer" and the woman weighed the truck for me. I drove the front wheels on to the scale and it read 3360 lbs. I drove the rest of the way on and it came to 6060 lbs. While coming back from the dealer this morning "with the trailer" we stopped by and weighed it again, this time with a passenger. The front axle weighed 3300 lbs. I pulled the rear axle of the truck on and the weight came to 6900 lbs. I pulled the whole thing on the scale and the weight came to 12,120 lbs. This is with the trailer empty of water and waste and pretty empty of everything else we take with us. As I said, the truck and trailer seem to sit level, it's just not real comfortable when towing down the highway. Any thoughts on what adjustments I could make to try and make it better? Thank you all for your time, Boomer.