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Old 10-01-2019, 07:22 PM   #61
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Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

I know you're a new member so Welcome to FRF!
But your post has some inaccuracies.
Most of us use a WDH because the tow vehicle's owner's manual recommends one, for certain trailer weight specs.
Others of us have modern WDHs that have integrated sway control and have no problems backing up, even with tight turns.
And many of us have well balanced combos BECAUSE we use a WDH.

Maybe you're used to old tech chain WDHs with old tech friction anti-sway bars.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:54 PM   #62
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For me, when I started using the Andersen wd hitch, it make a big difference on the ride. The bouncing was reduced a lot, vehicle was more level. Granted this was used with my 2012 Escalade ESV towing a 34ft trailer. It worked, not best option but we did tow over 2k miles between all our trips. Just bought a new truck last mos 2500 Ram diesel but will still use the hitch, couldn't hurt right? Also the Andersen hitch is very light and easy to setup. Looks like I wont get to tow the trailer with the truck until spring now.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:06 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRogers984 View Post
Distribution hitches can cause more damage then they are worth.
Usually you need a distribution hitch because the tow vehicle is not the correct vehicle for the trailer being towed.
If you turn too sharp or the rear tow vehicles tires go into a dip while the front vehicle and trailer tires remain high, the forces applied to the distribution configuration can be very extreme, causing damage. Damage that may not appear at the point in time.
Usually, if there is a lot of sway, the trailer is not loaded correctly, provide the tow vehicle is adequate.

If the tow vehicle is not adequate, then any thing that will make it safer is advised, but disconnect the distribution hitch when making sharp turns, backing up, or going in or out of you driveway, or any other location with a dip.
Wrong on so many of your points
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Old 10-02-2019, 05:34 AM   #64
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I might have missed a reply addressing wind forces on a TT on the interstate. I would imagine the hinged pivot point on the TT is at the hitch ball. The horizontal forces will create a force on the TT and I would imagine the pivotal point will pivot and result in Sway. I would prefer not to have Sway when being passed by a semi trailer doing 80 mph. Will an extremely expensive TV prevent this?
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:42 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by grumpyer View Post
Wrong on so many of your points

What he said.
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Old 02-04-2020, 12:33 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

I know you're a new member so Welcome to FRF!
But your post has some inaccuracies.
Most of us use a WDH because the tow vehicle's owner's manual recommends one, for certain trailer weight specs.
Others of us have modern WDHs that have integrated sway control and have no problems backing up, even with tight turns.
And many of us have well balanced combos BECAUSE we use a WDH.

Maybe you're used to old tech chain WDHs with old tech friction anti-sway bars.



Thanks to all for your input to my thread!

It has been about 3 years since I posted this thread so I will give a progress report.

Many people disagree on this topic and some won’t ever change their minds.
After getting much advice from all of you fine members I made an informed decision for my set up.

I am dead pulling my 10,000lb travel trailer with no sway bars. I’ve traveled thousands of miles from Florida to California and many places in between and am very happy with my set up. I never got sway bars because I just don’t have any sway issues.

My Chevy Silverado 2500HD has a factory class IV hitch and is rated for 1000lbs tongue weight.
My rig pulls like a dream with no problems. When there is a strong cross wind and I feel it pushing my truck and trailer, I slow down.

My advice to anyone is the following:

1. Read the owner’s manual of your truck. If it says you need a WDH for your truck and trailer combination, then you need one. In my case the OM says it is “optional”, so I opt not to use one.
2. Make sure your hitch and ball are rated for the weight you are towing.
3. If you followed 1 and 2 and your tow vehicle isn’t riding relatively level, check the tongue weight of your trailer. You might need a WDH if you have a weak suspension on your truck.
4. Your truck and trailer should ride level while you are towing. This is a must for proper towing. You accomplish this with the proper hitch, tongue weight, truck suspension and “maybe” a WDH.
5. If your trailer is fishtailing and proposing there is something wrong that needs to be fixed. Check your tires, wheels, trailer suspension and wheel bearings. The first time I re-packed the bearings on my trailer I found an axel nut so loose it caused uneven wear on the tire. Try taking the spare tire off the back bumper. A small amount of weight on the back bumper can make a difference with weight and balance.
6. If 1 thru 5 are all good and you still want to use a WDH or sway bars, go ahead. But if doing so makes the trailer pull worse you are creating a dangerous situation for yourself and others on the road.
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Old 04-26-2020, 04:57 PM   #67
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One thing I've not seen anyone mention on this subject is even if you don't need the tortion load leveling bars, wouldn't they help along with the safety chains to hold the tt if it were to break loose from the ball?
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Old 05-02-2020, 10:06 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by plocklin View Post
Do I really need a weight distribution hitch?


Well I finally got my TT, a 34ft Keystone Cougar that weighs 7410 lbs. dry with a 2145 carrying capacity and a hitch weight of 755 lbs.
So far people I talk to will answer my question (with a definite Yes) before I tell them what kind of tow vehicle I have. Most of these people want to sell me a $600 hitch.

My truck is a 2014 Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel. The Chevy manual says a weight distribution hitch is “Optional” for a 2500/ 3500 series truck with trailer weights up to 18,000 lbs.

My Duramax has a factory class 5 hitch and the Duramax manual rates the 2wd Crew Cab for a 16,700 lbs trailer weight (GCWR 24,500 lbs). The Chevy owner’s manual says the maximum hitch weight is 2,000 lbs.

Without weight distribution the back of my truck drops about 2 inches. This makes the truck ride level as without a load the back end is higher than the front. I also noticed that there is an extra rear leaf spring (on each side) that has still not engaged with the trailer load.

Now of course, I do plan to put sway bars on the thing. I pulled it about 250 miles to my house without sway bars and it did have a tendency to sway.

I have talked to several people about WD hitches and many (even RV dealers) confuse them with sway control. I understand that WD hitches shift the weight from the tongue toward the front of the truck but why would I want to do that with my truck?

My question is to you guys that have a ¾ ton HD Diesel truck (Chevy, Ford, or Dodge). What kind of trailer do you pull and do you use weight distribution?



I tow a 2015 Spree Connect that is 35ft6 from bumper to hitch, weighs 7600 dry with 2200 lbs cargo capacity so very similar to your TT. I tow it with 2015 Sierra2500 6 l gasser. I use WDH and sway bars ,tows like dream, I would not dream of towing it without WDH. anyone else's thoughts?
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Old 05-02-2020, 10:25 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by mulher View Post
I tow a 2015 Spree Connect that is 35ft6 from bumper to hitch, weighs 7600 dry with 2200 lbs cargo capacity so very similar to your TT. I tow it with 2015 Sierra2500 6 l gasser. I use WDH and sway bars ,tows like dream, I would not dream of towing it without WDH. anyone else's thoughts?
9,500lbs trailer with as much as 1500lbs on the ball (I weigh the tongue every pull). WDH is not required per the manual for my truck. 10,000+ miles...tows great and I wouldn't dream of wasting the time and money on a WDH.
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Old 05-02-2020, 11:27 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRogers984 View Post
Distribution hitches can cause more damage then they are worth.
Usually you need a distribution hitch because the tow vehicle is not the correct vehicle for the trailer being towed.
If you turn too sharp or the rear tow vehicles tires go into a dip while the front vehicle and trailer tires remain high, the forces applied to the distribution configuration can be very extreme, causing damage. Damage that may not appear at the point in time.
Usually, if there is a lot of sway, the trailer is not loaded correctly, provide the tow vehicle is adequate.

If the tow vehicle is not adequate, then any thing that will make it safer is advised, but disconnect the distribution hitch when making sharp turns, backing up, or going in or out of you driveway, or any other location with a dip.
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Old 05-02-2020, 03:59 PM   #71
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I use a WDH, not because I need one but just in case.
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Old 05-03-2020, 01:01 AM   #72
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I use a WDH, not because I need one but just in case.
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