Do I really need a weight distribution hitch?

[plocklin]

Do I really need a weight distribution hitch?


Well I finally got my TT, a 34ft Keystone Cougar that weighs 7410 lbs. dry with a 2145 carrying capacity and a hitch weight of 755 lbs.
So far people I talk to will answer my question (with a definite Yes) before I tell them what kind of tow vehicle I have. Most of these people want to sell me a $600 hitch.

My truck is a 2014 Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel. The Chevy manual says a weight distribution hitch is “Optional” for a 2500/ 3500 series truck with trailer weights up to 18,000 lbs.

My Duramax has a factory class 5 hitch and the Duramax manual rates the 2wd Crew Cab for a 16,700 lbs trailer weight (GCWR 24,500 lbs). The Chevy owner’s manual says the maximum hitch weight is 2,000 lbs.

Without weight distribution the back of my truck drops about 2 inches. This makes the truck ride level as without a load the back end is higher than the front. I also noticed that there is an extra rear leaf spring (on each side) that has still not engaged with the trailer load.

Now of course, I do plan to put sway bars on the thing. I pulled it about 250 miles to my house without sway bars and it did have a tendency to sway.

I have talked to several people about WD hitches and many (even RV dealers) confuse them with sway control. I understand that WD hitches shift the weight from the tongue toward the front of the truck but why would I want to do that with my truck?

My question is to you guys that have a ¾ ton HD Diesel truck (Chevy, Ford, or Dodge). What kind of trailer do you pull and do you use weight distribution?

[Dr-G]

I have a 26' Grey Wolf and it has a dry weight of 5800# and tow with a 2500HD (gas) and I use a weight distribution hitch and it rides nice. Mine has sway control built in also. I think I paid $700 for mine. It rides nice. I would not want to try to pulling it without. Do you absolutely need it? Don;t know - someone with more input will be along soon. I think it gives me great control and keeps my front wheels in good contact with the road.

[Hman0109]

Originally Posted by plocklin

Do I really need a weight distribution hitch?


Well I finally got my TT, a 34ft Keystone Cougar that weighs 7410 lbs. dry with a 2145 carrying capacity and a hitch weight of 755 lbs.
So far people I talk to will answer my question (with a definite Yes) before I tell them what kind of tow vehicle I have. Most of these people want to sell me a $600 hitch.

My truck is a 2014 Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel. The Chevy manual says a weight distribution hitch is “Optional” for a 2500/ 3500 series truck with trailer weights up to 18,000 lbs.

My Duramax has a factory class 5 hitch and the Duramax manual rates the 2wd Crew Cab for a 16,700 lbs trailer weight (GCWR 24,500 lbs). The Chevy owner’s manual says the maximum hitch weight is 2,000 lbs.

Without weight distribution the back of my truck drops about 2 inches. This makes the truck ride level as without a load the back end is higher than the front. I also noticed that there is an extra rear leaf spring (on each side) that has still not engaged with the trailer load.

Now of course, I do plan to put sway bars on the thing. I pulled it about 250 miles to my house without sway bars and it did have a tendency to sway.

I have talked to several people about WD hitches and many (even RV dealers) confuse them with sway control. I understand that WD hitches shift the weight from the tongue toward the front of the truck but why would I want to do that with my truck?

My question is to you guys that have a ¾ ton HD Diesel truck (Chevy, Ford, or Dodge). What kind of trailer do you pull and do you use weight distribution?

Weight Distribution is to distribute the weight, right? For your truck, you dont need it. Your truck is perfectly level with your trailer. Now, for sway? For short distances you may be fine, but be safe adding your bars.

[Scrapper]

By what I understand is you not only want your tv level but your trailer level too. If the front or rear of the tt sets higher than the other end, it will also induce sway. Some with more knowledge will speak up sooner or later. I have a WDH but not any anti-sway, also I don't pull my tt around.

[doc73]

I tow my trailer with WD. DO I need it maybe not.. I do tow to the trailer inspection place without the WD hooked up (1 mile down the road) and I feel it. The truck gets more bounce on bumps and the truck does squat ever so slight.

[polishdon]

I have the exact same truck and a 37 foot "bumper pull" toyhauler. I wouldn't think about towing it without my Equalizer set up, but my trailer has a lot more tongue weight than yours.

[wrvond]

My hitch, drawbar, and ball are rated for 17,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 2,550 lbs. tongue weight. This is well within the limits of my F250. The truck also has electronic sway control built in.
I do not use a WDH nor do I use any external sway control devices.
What I do recommend is that you install a drawbar with the proper drop to keep the trailer tongue level; ensure all tires are properly inflated; load the camper up for camping (including water, propane, food, and such), load the truck up with bicycles, fuel, coolers, people, etc., and hit the CAT scale.
Once you have accurate weights you can move your stuff around to properly distribute the weight inside the camper.
There is NO sway control as effective as proper loading and weight distribution.

[Mountndream]

i have a ram 2500 and a 4500 lb trailer. I may not always use my WDH esp for short trips, but for longer trips i think it helps smooth out the ride.

[Blucruz]

I pull a 24' 10k gvwr car hauler with my Ram 2500. I don't need a WDH either but I still use it to smooth out the ride, especially on longer trips. I don't use sway control either and I've never had a problem if the trailer weight is balanced right.

[Springerdad]

Originally Posted by plocklin

Do I really need a weight distribution hitch?


Well I finally got my TT, a 34ft Keystone Cougar that weighs 7410 lbs. dry with a 2145 carrying capacity and a hitch weight of 755 lbs.
So far people I talk to will answer my question (with a definite Yes) before I tell them what kind of tow vehicle I have. Most of these people want to sell me a $600 hitch.

My truck is a 2014 Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel. The Chevy manual says a weight distribution hitch is “Optional” for a 2500/ 3500 series truck with trailer weights up to 18,000 lbs.

My Duramax has a factory class 5 hitch and the Duramax manual rates the 2wd Crew Cab for a 16,700 lbs trailer weight (GCWR 24,500 lbs). The Chevy owner’s manual says the maximum hitch weight is 2,000 lbs.

Without weight distribution the back of my truck drops about 2 inches. This makes the truck ride level as without a load the back end is higher than the front. I also noticed that there is an extra rear leaf spring (on each side) that has still not engaged with the trailer load.

Now of course, I do plan to put sway bars on the thing. I pulled it about 250 miles to my house without sway bars and it did have a tendency to sway.

I have talked to several people about WD hitches and many (even RV dealers) confuse them with sway control. I understand that WD hitches shift the weight from the tongue toward the front of the truck but why would I want to do that with my truck?

My question is to you guys that have a ¾ ton HD Diesel truck (Chevy, Ford, or Dodge). What kind of trailer do you pull and do you use weight distribution?

I had a similar setup, an 8,000lb SOB TT. Pulled it fine around town but other than that YES I used my WDH. You want and need that control. Next - IF I remember, that truck calls for a WDH if the tongue weight is over 5oolbs, I had a '13. Also - when the rear of the truck squats, the front will become lighter, and rise. Your alignment specs will change and that rig may become squirrelly. Get a WDH - it doesn't have to be a top of the line unit - but it will make your towing experience MUCH more pleasant.

[plocklin]

Originally Posted by wrvond

My hitch, drawbar, and ball are rated for 17,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 2,550 lbs. tongue weight. This is well within the limits of my F250. The truck also has electronic sway control built in.
I do not use a WDH nor do I use any external sway control devices.
What I do recommend is that you install a drawbar with the proper drop to keep the trailer tongue level; ensure all tires are properly inflated; load the camper up for camping (including water, propane, food, and such), load the truck up with bicycles, fuel, coolers, people, etc., and hit the CAT scale.
Once you have accurate weights you can move your stuff around to properly distribute the weight inside the camper.
There is NO sway control as effective as proper loading and weight distribution.

A 2 inch drop puts my TT level. I used a WD hitch to tow it the first time but the ball was 1 inch too high. This was with the hitch set at the lowest level. Perhaps this is why I got sway. I will try towing it with a level truck and level trailer to see if there is an improvement. I definitely want to get it right before I take any long trips.
Thanks for the reply.

[larryandamy]

Yes you definitely need WDH. I am surprised that this is even a question.
If anyone tells you that you don't need this, then stop listening to them as they do not know what they are talking about. You can "get by" without a lot of things, but if safety is a primary concern, then the book is written.
You probably have over $70,000 invested in your truck and TT and $600 is a cheap expense to protect your investment, keep you safe and make the many hours you will spend towing, much more enjoyable.
I actually recommend spending $2000 and getting a Hensley hitch that totally eliminates sway. Most readers on this forum think this is overkill, but all who say that have never towed a TT with a Hensley hitch. I do no know anyone who has towed without and with a Hensley hitch that will give up their Hensley. It makes a world of difference and has kept many from selling their rigs as it totally eliminates sway.
As I said before... it depends on your tolerance for white knuckled towing. Mine is zero tolerance. Sway is the kiiler and the top cause for trailer accidents. Some insurance companies even give a discount if you have a Hensley.

But... WDH requirement is a no brainer for your rig.
Thanks

[pdqparalegal1]

Originally Posted by plocklin

A 2 inch drop puts my TT level. I used a WD hitch to tow it the first time but the ball was 1 inch too high. This was with the hitch set at the lowest level. Perhaps this is why I got sway. I will try towing it with a level truck and level trailer to see if there is an improvement. I definitely want to get it right before I take any long trips.
Thanks for the reply.

What most people call a "sway bar" is in reality an "anti roll bar". Helps keep the vehicle level from side to side. Does add stability to vehicle while cornering. Doesn't stop sway, "vehicle and trailer moving side to side". Some hitches have a way to help SWAY built in. Others, mine, use an add on sway control, "friction" based. Key is how much weight is moved from steer axle to rear, drive, axle. Too much and sway is deadly. You could put weight back on steer axle with heaver springs or air bags. I use a cheap WDH, add on friction device, $34.00, and air bags. I feel much more relaxed towing now. This is America, you are free to do as your conscience dictates. Happy trails.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by Hman0109

Weight Distribution is to distribute the weight, right? For your truck, you dont need it. Your truck is perfectly level with your trailer. Now, for sway? For short distances you may be fine, but be safe adding your bars.

No matter the size of truck, a tag trailer removes weight off of the front axle.

A WD system does several things:
Redistributes weight-- takes weight off of the rear axle and places it on the front axle (more) and trailer axles (less)
Incorporates an anti-sway component (most of them)

Although a heavy-duty truck does not appear to need weight distribution (due to rear end being jacked up high to start, really strong rear springs or a combination of both), ideally weight should be redistributed back to the front.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1

What most people call a "sway bar" is in reality an "anti roll bar". Helps keep the vehicle level from side to side. Does add stability to vehicle while cornering. Doesn't stop sway, "vehicle and trailer moving side to side". Some hitches have a way to help SWAY built in. Others, mine, use an add on sway control, "friction" based. Key is how much weight is moved from steer axle to rear, drive, axle. Too much and sway is deadly. You could put weight back on steer axle with heaver springs or air bags. I use a cheap WDH, add on friction device, $34.00, and air bags. I feel much more relaxed towing now. This is America, you are free to do as your conscience dictates. Happy trails.

Yup...

"Sway bars" are actually "anti-sway bars".

In the context of WD systems, an anti-sway bar is an anti-yaw bar!

Outside the context of a WD system, an anti-sway bar is an anti-roll bar!

[johns3962]

I have a 2012 XLR 27HFS TH. It is a bumper pull. It came with a hitch that has some bars that attach to some brackets on the trailer tongue. I bought a used 2010 Dodge Ram 3500 Disel Dually that has a Ranch Hand rear bumper that ONLY has a ball. The camper weighs 8650 with 876 hitch weight I believe. I cannot use the hitch because I dont have a receiver hitch. Whomever owned the truck removed it. I have pulled the camper three times so far and I never knew it was back there. The ball/bumper has a 1000 pound pin weight so I should be fine. However Roo told me to let him know next time I haul so he could be off the road. With that said I have't encountered any problems. Just my 2 cents worth.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by plocklin

Do I really need a weight distribution hitch?


Well I finally got my TT, a 34ft Keystone Cougar that weighs 7410 lbs. dry with a 2145 carrying capacity and a hitch weight of 755 lbs.
So far people I talk to will answer my question (with a definite Yes) before I tell them what kind of tow vehicle I have. Most of these people want to sell me a $600 hitch.

My truck is a 2014 Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel. The Chevy manual says a weight distribution hitch is “Optional” for a 2500/ 3500 series truck with trailer weights up to 18,000 lbs.

My Duramax has a factory class 5 hitch and the Duramax manual rates the 2wd Crew Cab for a 16,700 lbs trailer weight (GCWR 24,500 lbs). The Chevy owner’s manual says the maximum hitch weight is 2,000 lbs.

Without weight distribution the back of my truck drops about 2 inches. This makes the truck ride level as without a load the back end is higher than the front. I also noticed that there is an extra rear leaf spring (on each side) that has still not engaged with the trailer load.

Now of course, I do plan to put sway bars on the thing. I pulled it about 250 miles to my house without sway bars and it did have a tendency to sway.

I have talked to several people about WD hitches and many (even RV dealers) confuse them with sway control. I understand that WD hitches shift the weight from the tongue toward the front of the truck but why would I want to do that with my truck?

My question is to you guys that have a ¾ ton HD Diesel truck (Chevy, Ford, or Dodge). What kind of trailer do you pull and do you use weight distribution?

Unequivocally, YES. COULD YOU GET BY WITHOUT,. PROBABLY. WILL IT BE SMOOTHER, SAFER AND BETTER FOR BOTH TRUCK AND TRAILER TO USE A WDH? . YES.

Anyone who can read and use tools doesn't need a salesman or installation. Go on ETrailer.com. Read, view videos on installation and order. We too have a beefy "3/4 ton" camper special plus Firestone airbags with nearly unlimited load capacity and tow power, but even with our old GVW 7300 lb trailer it towed notably better with a wdh.

I use a simple basic "round bar" generic (this one has Curt brand name on it) with chains and side mount sway control. Even the DW can tell if I just leave the sway control loose and makes me go back and fix it.

Ride, safety and ease of driving all improve with wdh. Don't leave home without it.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by Springerdad

I had a similar setup, an 8,000lb SOB TT. Pulled it fine around town but other than that YES I used my WDH. You want and need that control. Next - IF I remember, that truck calls for a WDH if the tongue weight is over 5oolbs, I had a '13. Also - when the rear of the truck squats, the front will become lighter, and rise. Your alignment specs will change and that rig may become squirrelly. Get a WDH - it doesn't have to be a top of the line unit - but it will make your towing experience MUCH more pleasant.

Yes to what he said.

[325BH]

Part of the reason TT's are very susceptible to sway is the amount of weight behind the rear axle even when properly loaded... in addition to the sail-effect from the big box.

If you take two identical trailers (say a flat bed utility): on one place 100% of its load slightly forward of the axles as to obtain the correct tongue weight ; on the other put half the load all the way in the back and the other half up front to get the correct tongue weight.

Sway characteristics with be vastly different between the two... even though the tongue weights are proper.

This is what it is like in our TT's and is why one guy who tows a bobcat with his F250 without a WD system does just fine... while a guy towing a big TT with his dually should use a WD system.

[seagrace]

I'm not experienced enough to tell you whether or not you need any particular hitch. I can tell you I considered it for my 251 SSXL toyhauler with the axles flipped, but my RAM 3500 4x4 single TCD is rated to pull twice the max weight of this trailer. I did not get the WD hitch, but I did talk the dealer into tossing in a WD receiver and a sway control bar, which I have yet to use the sway control.

The first couple of times taking it out, I did notice the trailer was a bit skittish, and it did drop my hitch about an inch. I figured it was load, so I loaded my Arctic Cat Trail with the engine over the trailer wheels and better weight distribution. This helped a bit, but I could still feel the lightness in the steering. My solution was Heavy-Duty Airbags (Loadlifter 5000).

I'm too cheap for the on-board compressor, but for around $400 and a couple of hours of time, installed and works great. I inflate them to half the rated pressure (50psi), and the sway/handling problem went away.

My feeling is that with my truck and camper I'm prolly on the edge of yay or nay, but the airbags put me over with a simple and cost-effective solution. Yeah, a full-on WD hitch would work too, but I'm happy with the handling now and my solution.