Does this look right?

[Mrs.Shockley]

Originally Posted by RitaB

You said that you didn't feel any sway, but there was lurching. Did they adjust the brake controller for you. With my first TT, the dealer took me on a test drive and showed me how to adjust the brake so there isn't lurching when I step on the brakes.

It isn't when we step on the brake and I'm not sure lurching is the right word. It's almost as though someone is giving us the slightest little shove every little bit. It's very minor, barely noticeable but there.

I did measure and it was virtually level, within 1/4 inch of 22 inches from trailer bottom to ground both front and back. When we get a chance, we'll do more measuring and weighing and study the hitch manual.

Thanks all.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Could be a small amount of play in the receiver. My head moves a little in the receiver.

[clarkbre]

Originally Posted by dcheatwood

Measure height from ground to rear fender well.
Un hitch and measure same place again. Should be pretty close.

That statement is not very accurate. The truck naturally sits a bit higher in the back unloaded. When loaded with cargo in the bed, weight on the hitch, or both, the truck should sit level and the rear may drop a couple of inches. This is normal and should be expected. If that hitch is bringing the rear of the truck back up to stock height, the WDH is likely way over-tensioned and taking too much weight off the rear axle.

Using that same hitch dialed in on my F250, the rear of the truck still squats a bit....but the scales don't lie.

[Mrs.Shockley]

Having done a bit more research, I think what I'm calling "lurching" might be just normal road-feel, based on another thread on this site, which I'll quote here:

Originally Posted by 5erDriver

...You will always feel the bumps and jumps of the trailer as it hits them after the truck does. It's just something you get used to I guess. The delayed reaction of the trailer will reflect back on the truck...

I think we'll see how it feels in future and we will get to a scale and check everything out there. Thanks again everyone.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

Having done a bit more research, I think what I'm calling "lurching" might be just normal road-feel, based on another thread on this site, which I'll quote here:






I think we'll see how it feels in future and we will get to a scale and check everything out there. Thanks again everyone.

Often times this 'lurching' is referred to as 'porpoising' and a common phenomenon of certain road types, especially concrete with expansion joints.
You'll quickly learn how your rig reacts to them.

Also on the subject of scales... while CAT scales are nice they are NOT required. Many landscaping dealers in our area have scales to sell stone and mulch and on a slow weekday afternoon, they will be glad to let you run over their scales, often for FREE! Same goes for coal dealers and scrap dealers although with the latter, there often exists the opportunity to encounter less than ideal conditions at the scales because of scrap debris.

[Mrs.Shockley]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Often times this 'lurching' is referred to as 'porpoising' and a common phenomenon of certain road types, especially concrete with expansion joints.
You'll quickly learn how your rig reacts to them.

Also on the subject of scales... while CAT scales are nice they are NOT required. Many landscaping dealers in our area have scales to sell stone and mulch and on a slow weekday afternoon, they will be glad to let you run over their scales, often for FREE! Same goes for coal dealers and scrap dealers although with the latter, there often exists the opportunity to encounter less than ideal conditions at the scales because of scrap debris.

The "porpoising" makes sense, since it was not there 100% of the time and a lot of the roadway is pretty rough. That's just Missouri. Our roads suck. They are often the type with the joints too. Some of the time it was fine and other times it felt like our head were rocking frontward and back. Does that make sense?

We know we're not overweight - as in over the GCWR for the truck. Not even close. Nor are we over on payload. I thought the reason for the CAT scales was to determine the axel weights, etc.

[clarkbre]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

......
We know we're not overweight - as in over the GCWR for the truck. Not even close. Nor are we over on payload. I thought the reason for the CAT scales was to determine the axel weights, etc.

Yes, the CAT scale determines axle weights but a standard scale can too....there's just a little more math:

Example of the scale readings... 3200, 7000, 13500
Roll on with only your Front axle = 3200
Then pull forward and have both front and Rear axles = 7000-3200 = 3800
Finally, pull forward with all axles on the scale. Trailer axle(s) = 13500-7000 = 6500

As you drive on, take notes of the numbers and do the subtraction. That spreadsheet I referenced in Post #18 will do all that math for you.

[Chief T]

Originally Posted by D W

Not to derail this thread, but may I ask if you can open your tailgate with this setup?

My tailgate opens with about 1/8" to spare.

Safe and happy travels.

[Mrs.Shockley]

You are NOT going to believe this...

The F150 was just TOWED to the nearest Ford dealer - because the brakes failed. Thankfully, they did not fail while driving and pulling a trailer, but went to the floor when husband put his foot on the brake to put it in drive at lunch-time.


So, yeah!

Always, always, always - buy the extended warranty on a used vehicle. I certainly do and this time - 3 days into ownership - I'm really freaking glad!

Wow.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

You are NOT going to believe this...The F150 was just TOWED to the nearest Ford dealer - because the brakes failed. Thankfully, they did not fail while driving and pulling a trailer, but went to the floor when husband put his foot on the brake to put it in drive at lunch-time.
So, yeah!

Always, always, always - buy the extended warranty on a used vehicle. I certainly do and this time - 3 days into ownership - I'm really freaking glad!
Wow.

Glad it happened the way it did.

Hopefully you'll never have to use the warranty again.

Enjoy! It's all about the journey!

[Steve08]

The manual might be on line.They will usually tell you what the height range of the hitch should be.

[Seachaser186]

LT E tires and Bilstein 5100 rear shocks.

[txarsoncop]

Originally Posted by D W

Not to derail this thread, but may I ask if you can open your tailgate with this setup?

If you swap the jack head around you should have plenty of room for dropping your tailgate. Worked for my '05 F150 and my '17 F250.



For some reason I can't seem to get the pic to post here, just a link. NVM, fixed it.

[dalenelson]

I put Timbrens bump stops that helped with the marshmallow suspension the Fords have. Once the RV is on it loads the weight on the bump stops and gets rid of the mushy bounce you might be feeling. Great ride

[karlrmac]

Originally Posted by txarsoncop

If you swap the jack head around you should have plenty of room for dropping your tailgate. Worked for my '05 F150 and my '17 F250.



For some reason I can't seem to get the pic to post here, just a link. NVM, fixed it.

This is genius!
I wonder if this will work off to the side? I know my tank cover would be in the way to turn it all the way around, but it would be great to have access to lower the tailgate for bikes and other things. Got me some research to do!

[CincyGus]

If it towed great from the dealership empty, Don't do a thing to it until you get it loaded down with all your stuff. Then hook up and take another 20-30 minute test drive, trying to get some place on the highway that you will have a semi or two pass you on the left at highway speeds. If it's still towing great at 60-70, leave that bad boy alone. IF it's working for ya, don't change a thing. If it's driving badly and your getting a little sway, time to hit the scales, get some numbers, verify your tongue weight and look at readjusting the hitch.

[pwrriver]

Originally Posted by Jfkmk

Looks could be deceiving, I would measure the frame-to-ground with a tape measure.

Yes, measure the frame to the ground about 1 foot from the front of the trailer and 1 foot from the rear of the trailer. Make sure you have the trailer loaded the way you will travel. Water, gear, etc. Same goes for the stuff you'll permanently store in the back of the truck although that looks like not an issue as you don't appear to have a canopy or shell on it. Within a 1/2 inch, you're good to go. 1/2 inch lower in front is fine. 1 inch lower in front may still be fine. 1 inch lower in back, I would make an adjustment. Another words, if not
equal, it's better slightly lower in front but not by more than an inch.

[pwrriver]

Originally Posted by dalenelson

I put Timbrens bump stops that helped with the marshmallow suspension the Fords have. Once the RV is on it loads the weight on the bump stops and gets rid of the mushy bounce you might be feeling. Great ride

I missed the threads on this issue. My F-150 has a mushy feeling when towing my trailer. What are Timbrens bump stops???

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by pwrriver

I missed the threads on this issue. My F-150 has a mushy feeling when towing my trailer. What are Timbrens bump stops???

Google Timbrens and watch some of their videos.
Google Sumosprings too. Same type of item.

[Kennerg]

N I C E
T R U C K !