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Old 10-07-2018, 04:16 PM   #1
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Duramax crank but no start

Pulled 5th wheel home from campground this afternoon. It was about a 45 mile trip. Pulled good and truck ran well. Got home and parked on the court to clean and unload the camper. About 10 minutes after shutting truck off I had tried to start it to get closer. It cranked but no start. Tried to pump up fuel filter but still no start. I unload the camper, cleaned it and ate lunch. Went out and still no start so I disconnected battery, waited a few minutes and reconnected. Hand primed/pumped the fuel filter again. I cranked a little and it started. I drove it to the storage lot and dropped off the 5th wheel. I left it running until I returned home. Shut it off and it started right back up. It had done this about 3 years ago. Would like to find out why it happened, what caused it. Any thoughts? It is a 2008 Chevy Silverado Duramax Diesel 3500HD dually. Could the fuel filter body need replaced, rebuilt or something else?
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Old 10-07-2018, 04:41 PM   #2
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Pulled 5th wheel home from campground this afternoon. It was about a 45 mile trip. Pulled good and truck ran well. Got home and parked on the court to clean and unload the camper. About 10 minutes after shutting truck off I had tried to start it to get closer. It cranked but no start. Tried to pump up fuel filter but still no start. I unload the camper, cleaned it and ate lunch. Went out and still no start so I disconnected battery, waited a few minutes and reconnected. Hand primed/pumped the fuel filter again. I cranked a little and it started. I drove it to the storage lot and dropped off the 5th wheel. I left it running until I returned home. Shut it off and it started right back up. It had done this about 3 years ago. Would like to find out why it happened, what caused it. Any thoughts? It is a 2008 Chevy Silverado Duramax Diesel 3500HD dually. Could the fuel filter body need replaced, rebuilt or something else?
Lots of threads on this in the Duramax forum. If it's the fuel filter body, you should be able to hand pump and start.

My son had the exact same symptoms you have on his 2008. It ended up being the draw straw in the tank. This caused problems whenever he was around 1/3 to 1/4 tank of fuel. Sometimes hand pump would result in start, but usually not. So he kept his tank full until we could replace the fuel pickup.

On my 2007 it was the fuel filter body. But it always started after a hand pump.

Chances are you are due for a new fuel filter body anyway. It's a cheap and easy replacement. I'd start there.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:00 PM   #3
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Lots of threads on this in the Duramax forum. If it's the fuel filter body, you should be able to hand pump and start.

My son had the exact same symptoms you have on his 2008. It ended up being the draw straw in the tank. This caused problems whenever he was around 1/3 to 1/4 tank of fuel. Sometimes hand pump would result in start, but usually not. So he kept his tank full until we could replace the fuel pickup.

On my 2007 it was the fuel filter body. But it always started after a hand pump.

Chances are you are due for a new fuel filter body anyway. It's a cheap and easy replacement. I'd start there.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.
Draw straw ? Is it an assembly or something else? I had about 3/4 tank when it happened. I did notice a little diesel fuel on top of the filter body when I went to pump it
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:22 PM   #4
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Crank sensors are known to go bad. May have to have GM replace as had this happen on my 2001 dully. Later RJD
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:24 PM   #5
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Draw straw ? Is it an assembly or something else? I had about 3/4 tank when it happened. I did notice a little diesel fuel on top of the filter body when I went to pump it
Ah, that is a definite clue! Also you can leave the bleeder screw closed, hand pump until you can't, and check for any fuel bubbles around the body. Especially where the fuel heater insert is. That o-ring seems to fail a lot.

You can get a rebuild kit, but if that is the original filter body, I would just replace the whole thing. I had a crack in the body itself. I think mine from the dealer was $110 with filter.

Draw straw is the fuel pickup in the tank. Some years are bad about that pickup disintegrating towards the bottom. But you usually only have problems when your tank is low, which doesn't sound like your problem.
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:27 PM   #6
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I would rebuild the filter housing. It is cheap and easy. I have seen them not start even after priming. Did the hand pump feel like normal? The times they wouldn't start when I messed with them, the hand primer would come back up on it's own. The other thing you need to check is the fuel cooler. It is in front of the fuel tank. If the cooler is dirty the fuel will fer too hot and thin out. Cause a no start until it cools down enough.
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:39 PM   #7
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I would rebuild the filter housing. It is cheap and easy. I have seen them not start even after priming. Did the hand pump feel like normal? The times they wouldn't start when I messed with them, the hand primer would come back up on it's own. The other thing you need to check is the fuel cooler. It is in front of the fuel tank. If the cooler is dirty the fuel will fer too hot and thin out. Cause a no start until it cools down enough.
Jeff
Not sure if I know what a normal feel is in it. This is only the second time I have had to pump/prime it. It got hard to press after pumping it a little. Never heard of the thing in front of the fuel tank. But I will take a look. Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:40 PM   #8
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Something caused it to lose pressure
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:47 PM   #9
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Something caused it to lose pressure
If there was fuel on the top of fuel filter body and you didn't open the bleed screw, then it's a pretty sure thing it's the fuel filter body in my opinion. Rebuild or replace, lots of youtube videos on both.

Mine had a hairline crack in the top of the body is why I always suggest to replace.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:43 PM   #10
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If there was fuel on the top of fuel filter body and you didn't open the bleed screw, then it's a pretty sure thing it's the fuel filter body in my opinion. Rebuild or replace, lots of youtube videos on both.

Mine had a hairline crack in the top of the body is why I always suggest to replace.
Yes, I was just looking at videos of both and cost of them. I'm limited on time so will probably just replace. Thanks for all the responses. I figured someone on here would know.
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Old 10-07-2018, 09:15 PM   #11
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I never use the bleed screw on the fuel filter housing, the best thing is to use the service port next to the alternator, the bleed screw tends to leak and doesn't seem to do very good being plastic. Couple rags around the service port, press the schrader valve while pumping the primer.
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Old 10-08-2018, 03:10 PM   #12
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As others have suggested try the fuel pump first but I have heard of the crank sensor doing the same thing. The sensor will Crack and will start off and on....

Good luck and let us know what you find.

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Old 10-08-2018, 04:23 PM   #13
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As others have suggested try the fuel pump first but I have heard of the crank sensor doing the same thing. The sensor will Crack and will start off and on....

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Teamgreen
Where is the crank sensor and what does it look like
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Old 10-08-2018, 04:23 PM   #14
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Everything is original 2008
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Old 10-08-2018, 04:32 PM   #15
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If there was fuel on the top of fuel filter body and you didn't open the bleed screw, then it's a pretty sure thing it's the fuel filter body in my opinion. Rebuild or replace, lots of youtube videos on both.

Mine had a hairline crack in the top of the body is why I always suggest to replace.

I'm with wildcat.....start with the simple and least expensive things first.......fuel filter body...replaced mine last year, was leaking...
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Old 10-08-2018, 04:54 PM   #16
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Cool

Have a 2006 Duramax. When fuel filter needed replacement the truck went into 'Limp Mode' . Do not know if other things trigger this and do not know difference to your truck.
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Old 10-08-2018, 05:54 PM   #17
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My truck had a bad injector and it would leak down. Try running some injector cleaner to help with the sticktion
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:46 PM   #18
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Where is the crank sensor and what does it look like
Not quite sure where to find as I had Chevy dealer replace mine. Later RJD
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:02 PM   #19
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I believe y'all are talking about a crankshaft position sensor. From what I've read, if it is bad it should throw a specific code.
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:56 PM   #20
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agree with NMwildcat as same on son's. Replace housing good now.
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