E4 Hitch sounds awful!

[REL]

DW and I (first time owners) took the new TT out for a shake down camp to a campground about 15 miles from home (still there now).. Rural 2 lane roads with some tight turns... The E4 hitch sounded like a bunch of cats in heat!..At one turn it sounded like something scraping on the blacktop...Never noticed it that much before but it's only been on the highway..
I have read they are noisy but?
Bob

[babock]

Did you grease the pivot points?

Also, I use these on the bar perches:
https://smile.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer...CB59FNPDEWSNB5

[HappyTrav]

Originally Posted by babock

Did you grease the pivot points?

Also, I use these on the bar perches:
https://smile.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer...CB59FNPDEWSNB5

This quoted my E-4 down considerably.

The pivot points on mine weren’t greased from the dealer.

Bob

[67L48]

What Babcock said. Get the polymer perches and lubricate the hitch. The proper points are noted in the manual. Mine went from an absolute embarrassment to barely noticeable.

[cstreu1026]

Our equalizer hitch would wake the dead. The plastic pads helped a lot but it was still loud.

[Jeffjeeptj]

I'll agree (how ever many times - lost count) about the E4 "song". At least you know the hitch is connected. As stated above there are specific locations in the manual as to where to grease. Equal-i-zer has their own brand of grease that is sold. Also, as stated above, buy the "jackets" and put them on the L brackets.
Verify the torque of the bolts that hold the "sockets". IIRC, the manual states 65 ft-lbs minimum.
If you do grease the sockets, apply sparingly and be prepared for the grease to spread around to the outside of the moving parts. I have gotten grease on un-tucked shirts, pants, from unsuspecting places like the 7 conductor wire if it gets close to the moving parts when I am landing or loading.
If you disassemble the sockets from the head, you will be surprised at how tight they fit in certain positions even without the bolts. You may have to apply some persuasion to get them back into boltable position. Here is a picture of the head showing some scoring lines from turning. The factory installed some grease in mine along with some type of paint that wears into a slurry.
I am cleaning mine up,for the spring and aslo noticed the installing dealer installed a ball with a too long shank. So, that will get changed also.
If the financial advisor would let me, I would buy another Hensley that I stupidly sold when I thought we were out of the TT ownership business.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Maybe I'm overthinking this, but metal on plastic ? there has got to be some loss of friction which is what makes the EQ work so well.

[babock]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

Maybe I'm overthinking this, but metal on plastic ? there has got to be some loss of friction which is what makes the EQ work so well.

I am sure there is some loss.

Totally worth it for noise reduction. I still have no sway.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Jeffjeeptj

I'll agree (how ever many times - lost count) about the E4 "song". At least you know the hitch is connected. As stated above there are specific locations in the manual as to where to grease. Equal-i-zer has their own brand of grease that is sold. Also, as stated above, buy the "jackets" and put them on the L brackets.
Verify the torque of the bolts that hold the "sockets". IIRC, the manual states 65 ft-lbs minimum.
If you do grease the sockets, apply sparingly and be prepared for the grease to spread around to the outside of the moving parts. I have gotten grease on un-tucked shirts, pants, from unsuspecting places like the 7 conductor wire if it gets close to the moving parts when I am landing or loading.
If you disassemble the sockets from the head, you will be surprised at how tight they fit in certain positions even without the bolts. You may have to apply some persuasion to get them back into boltable position. Here is a picture of the head showing some scoring lines from turning. The factory installed some grease in mine along with some type of paint that wears into a slurry.
I am cleaning mine up,for the spring and aslo noticed the installing dealer installed a ball with a too long shank. So, that will get changed also.
If the financial advisor would let me, I would buy another Hensley that I stupidly sold when I thought we were out of the TT ownership business.

That actually looks right, all fastener manufacturers require for at least 1/2 the diameter of the threaded shank, bolt or stud be exposed after the proper torque. A 1-1/2 inch shank will require at least 3/4 inch of threads exposed. Never have the end of the shank flush or inside the threads of the nut. The specification changes once the fastener diameter is over 2 inches.

[My17Ram]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

That actually looks right, all fastener manufacturers require for at least 1/2 the diameter of the threaded shank, bolt or stud be exposed after the proper torque. A 1-1/2 inch shank will require at least 3/4 inch of threads exposed. Never have the end of the shank flush or inside the threads of the nut. The specification changes once the fastener diameter is over 2 inches.

Above is correct EXCEPT for the E4. The sockets pivot ant will strike exposed threads. A specific shank length ball must be used that, when tight the threads are flush with the nut. Equalizer sells the correct ball. I would think a dealer would know this.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by babock

I am sure there is some loss.

Totally worth it for noise reduction. I still have no sway.

Guess I just got use to the sound and took it as...that's what it does.
Using Blue Ox now, but I did like the EQ better.

[REL]

I ordered the pads and the special lubricant..do you have to adjust the hitch after you insert the pads?..seems like you may be putting a bit more tension on the bars...or is it negligible?..

[babock]

Originally Posted by REL

I ordered the pads and the special lubricant..do you have to adjust the hitch after you insert the pads?..seems like you may be putting a bit more tension on the bars...or is it negligible?..

The adjustment washers are a more coarse adjustment than what the pads are doing so I wouldn't sweat it.

[ard58]

[QUOTE=TheWolfPaq82;2073898]Maybe I'm overthinking this, but metal on plastic ? there has got to be some loss of friction which is what makes the EQ work so well.

I have them too and love them. Mine is a E2 hitch, and they are for the E4, but I have not noticed any issues but no noise.

[RitaB]

One thing I didn't see mentioned was DUST. If you go through a lot of dust, it can get into the hitch and cause noise. I give mine a good cleaning at least once a week, then reapply grease. I also put a cover over my hitch and ball if disconnected in a campground, most of those roads are gravelly and vehicles can throw up gravel.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by RitaB

One thing I didn't see mentioned was DUST. If you go through a lot of dust, it can get into the hitch and cause noise. I give mine a good cleaning at least once a week, then reapply grease. I also put a cover over my hitch and ball if disconnected in a campground, most of those roads are gravelly and vehicles can throw up gravel.

Yes, driving through rain and/or dusty areas and our equalizer gets noisy very quick.

[WoodLark-SC]

[QUOTE=ard58;2074408]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

Maybe I'm overthinking this, but metal on plastic ? there has got to be some loss of friction which is what makes the EQ work so well.

I have them too and love them. Mine is a E2 hitch, and they are for the E4, but I have not noticed any issues but no noise.

I also have the E2 hitch, but I noticed that the Equalizer website page for the jackets says "not for use with the Fastway E2 hitch". I wonder why, especially since you have had no problems.

[dustman_stx]

The whole point of the E4 is to have 4 points of friction. If you lube the WD sockets at the hitch head, you've just eliminated 2. I used to do just this. I can testify having pulled thousands of miles both greased and not, there is a significant difference in resistance to pivot at the ball when not greased. After many thousands of miles, I notice little additional wear, but there has to be some. Main time you get noise is during slow turns. I simply remove my WD bars when entering a campground at the front entrance and then don't engage them when leaving until I'm back at the front. No noise for other campers to deal with, and no worry about unlevel sites making removing/replacing the bars difficult.

[HappyTrav]

The manual calls for lubrication.

Bob

“Should I grease my Equal-i-zer hitch?
The friction surfaces of the head should be kept clean and well lubricated with a good quality multi-purpose or bearing grease. These are the surfaces where the arm sockets rub against the top and bottom plates of the head.

It is not necessary to apply grease to the L-brackets on any hitch model.

This blog provides step-by-step instructions on how to properly lube your Equal-i-zer hitch: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/...”

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/frequ...sked-questions


https://www.equalizerhitch.com/blog/...al-i-zer-hitch

[CedarCreekWoody]

It is important the spring bars be pararell to the trailer frame. If not they will slide on the leading or trailing edge of the "L" brackets and make a loud screech. Raise or lower the "L" brackets to adjust.
The plastic pads also help.