Engine light comes on when towing

[Riverbc]

I've been meaning to ask this question here for a while now. Not always, but quite often, when towing my Rpod 171 up a grade in tow mode, my 2013 Dodge Ram 1500, goes clunk, the engine light comes on, I get kicked out of tow mode, and the truck becomes super sluggish. I have to pull over as soon as possible, turn my truck off, restart the truck, and go merrily on my way with no further issues other than the engine light is on. This only happens when I'm towing the trailer. I've had the truck into my repair shop a few times, and the mechanics say I'm getting various, engine codes, even for options that I don't have, like remote start. Mechanics say it's something in the trailer that is causing the error codes, triggering the engine light and knocking the truck out of tow mode. I have no idea how to begin to troubleshoot this. Has anyone ever heard of this happening?

[TheWolfPaq82]

Now my first guess would be it has something to do with the "Tow/Haul" mode.
Have you tried going up a grade w/o trailer in Tow/Haul mode ??

[mxtreme30]

The sluggishness is the truck going into failsafe or "limp" mode where it cuts power to prevent damage to engine or trans. I wonder if the transmission might be overheating going up a grade and towing. Check the color and smell of the trans fluid and you might think of adding a trans temp gauge to monitor if it's related to truck going into failsafe. Think Dodge had a run of bad torque converters at one time, but don't know the years affected. Hope it helps.

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

Now my first guess would be it has something to do with the "Tow/Haul" mode.
Have you tried going up a grade w/o trailer in Tow/Haul mode ??

Yes, I tried that. It still happens. The only difference I don't get kicked out of tow mode.

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by mxtreme30

The sluggishness is the truck going into failsafe or "limp" mode where it cuts power to prevent damage to engine or trans. I wonder if the transmission might be overheating going up a grade and towing. Check the color and smell of the trans fluid and you might think of adding a trans temp gauge to monitor if it's related to truck going into failsafe. Think Dodge had a run of bad torque converters at one time, but don't know the years affected. Hope it helps.

Okay...but why would it give error codes that have nothing to do with my truck? Like remote start, which I don't have.
Glad to hear that it's a fail safe mode and not my transmission.

[mxtreme30]

Codes are not always cut and dry like with the evaporative system malfunction code being triggered by a loose gas cap. Lol. Just to be clear something has to be outside a set parameter to trigger your truck into safemode. So it could be a transmission problem that triggers the ECM to go into safemode. Each time you cycle the ignition it "resets" those parameters again until something, be it transmission, engine, etc. runs outside those parameters then it goes back into limp mode. If the problem is pretty repeatable, you might get a tech to ride along with you and have test equipment hooked into the OBDII port to see if he/she can figure out what is causing it.

[TheWolfPaq82]

I would think possible fault in ECM (control module) when you select Tow/Haul. If it's doing it w/o trailer....then I'd mostly rule out Trailer problem, but the ecm also reads when trailers are connected. This is a tough one. Having a Tech and reader isn't a bad idea.

[babock]

Can you list the codes here?

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

I would think possible fault in ECM (control module) when you select Tow/Haul. If it's doing it w/o trailer....then I'd mostly rule out Trailer problem, but the ecm also reads when trailers are connected. This is a tough one. Having a Tech and reader isn't a bad idea.

No, it only does it with trailer connected. Once the check engine light comes on, it doesn’t happen again. I can drive all day long and going up hills. It’s never kicked out into fail safe mode once Check engine light comes on.

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by babock

Can you list the codes here?

It’s been in 3 times, codes came back, O2 Sensor, remote start, and I can’t remember the 3rd one. O2 sensor was replaced last year, and I don’t have remote start.

[babock]

Need the actual p code numbers.

Any modifications at all to the electrical including hooking up trailer light outlets to the truck?

Any of these codes for shift solenoids?

.

Originally Posted by Riverbc

It’s been in 3 times, codes came back, O2 Sensor, remote start, and I can’t remember the 3rd one. O2 sensor was replaced last year, and I don’t have remote start.

[HONDAMAN174]

You should get a code reader for $20 and have it with you when it happens BEFORE you turn off vehicle. I fear it does have something to do with transmission as o2 sensors usually don’t cause that huge loss of power especially with a clunk. I agree with checking trans fluid.

[babock]

Problem is, codes like remote start and special codes specific to a manufacturer won't show up with those generic code readers.

Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174

You should get a code reader for $20 and have it with you when it happens BEFORE you turn off vehicle. I fear it does have something to do with transmission as o2 sensors usually don’t cause that huge loss of power especially with a clunk. I agree with checking trans fluid.

[BillyBass]

Mind came on to going to Gettysburg and on the way back it went off hasn't came on since took two more trips.I was told towing the camper the Tran got over heated.I did pull a lot of long hills and it was hot..so until it comes back on can't have it check

[BillyBass]

How many miles is on it may be the Tran screen and fluid need change good luck.I hope its something miner

[67L48]

I highly encourage you to go to a Ram forum and see if others have experienced your issue. You're going to get a lot more insight about your truck at a truck forum ... you're going to get a lot more insight about your RV here at an RV forum. Sure, there is crossover, but definitely go to where the food is.

Eventually, you may have to take your truck to a Fiat/Ram dealership instead of your regular mechanic ... particularly if you're getting codes and such that are pointing to options/features not even equipped on your truck. BTW, Dodge hasn't made any trucks in over a decade ... you don't have a Dodge Ram.

Good luck.

[IsleDog]

I have a different truck (F150) but have had similar issues. limp mode and BAD shuddering under acceleration, towing, anything over 3500 RPM and it was going to be a bad day, very repeatable. Talked to the parts manager at ford and was told to check my spark plugs. Had just over 70k miles on the original ones. they are supposed to last 100k. got new plugs, pulled the old, gapped and installed. problem went away immediately. checked the gap on the old ones, all of them were WAY off. turns out that the spark can and will jump out of the gap and into the block. this caused me to see cylinder 1 and 2 misfire and fuel to shut off to those two holes. plug 8 was the worst and was causing the one causing my issues.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by babock

Problem is, codes like remote start and special codes specific to a manufacturer won't show up with those generic code readers.

As long as the codes are Powertrain codes (prefixed with "P") they WILL show up. They just won't be interpreted. That's what the internet is for.

The tricky codes (unlikely in this instance) are "B" (Body) and "C" (Chassis) codes. It takes a fancier code reader to read them.

[babock]

There are many p codes that are manufacturer specific. Anything that starts out P1 is manufacturer specific.

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

As long as the codes are Powertrain codes (prefixed with "P") they WILL show up. They just won't be interpreted. That's what the internet is for.

The tricky codes (unlikely in this instance) are "B" (Body) and "C" (Chassis) codes. It takes a fancier code reader to read them.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by babock

There are many p codes that are manufacturer specific. Anything that starts out P1 is manufacturer specific.

Of course there are! And any generic code reader will show them to you, contrary to your previous statement.

What the generic code readers won't do is emit text telling you what they mean. That's what the internet is for.

Just for grins, I typed the following text into Google
OBDII P1010
and got
Codes for DTC Error Code P1010
Make DTC Error Code Meaning
*Mitsubishi V.V.T.OCV
*Toyota OCV for VVTL Circuit (Bank 1)

OBDII P1111 gives a couple
For Jaguar
P1111 JAGUAR Tech Notes
Usually, the P1111 code means that all systems are OK and that the diagnostic cycle is complete. For some Jaguar models P1111 = OnBoard Systems Tests Completed.

For Nissan
Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 harness is open or shorted Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1111_nissan.html

For Chevy
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) applies a voltage (about 5.0 volts) on the signal circuit to the sensor. ... When the intake air is warm, the sensor resistance is low, and the signal voltage is pulled down a greater amount. This causes the PCM to sense a low signal voltage (high temperature).
P1111 CHEVROLET Possible Causes
Faulty Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Intake Air Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
Intake Air Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

One good source for translating all the proprietary codes is https://www.autocodes.com