Equalizer 4 Point Setup

[drhuggybear]

So I picked up my new Wildwood 29QBSS today. The dealership did the hitch adjustment but the sway arms aren't level to the frame of the trailer. They are angled up from the hitch to the L brackets. This means that the sway arms aren't sitting flat on the L-brackets but at an angle.

We got to the campsite tonight and I couldn't get disconnected because of the pressure. The site we are at isn't level so it is causing some issues getting the trailer disconnected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5TtNUxeFWc

This is an installation video from Equilizer and they look level in the video but they don't say one way or the other.

I told them when I was leaving that it didn't look right but they swore they installed it correctly. Thinking about it now as I type this, they didn't have any Equilizer displays up. All they had were the chain models.

What say the experts on this forum. Do I need to redo the hitch installation elsewhere -- or attempt it myself for that matter?

[fx2]

They should definitely be level. It's not hard to get it set up, I did mine when I bought my new truck in about 30 minutes.

As far as unhitching have you raised the jack on the trailer to take the weight off of the bars? I've never had issues unhooking, even with an unlevel spot


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[youroo]

Originally Posted by fx2

They should definitely be level. It's not hard to get it set up, I did mine when I bought my new truck in about 30 minutes.

As far as unhitching have you raised the jack on the trailer to take the weight off of the bars? I've never had issues unhooking, even with an unlevel spot


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Agree with the above Info! Youroo!!

[Platokidd]

do you have pics of your setup ?

I had the same issue with my dealer 2x. Cant set up the hitch right always in a hurry.

If you can do it yourself I would recommend doing so. Unlike others who posted before me, I spent several hours setting my hitch up RIGHT.
But Im kinda picky about having the setup perfect.

Follow the directions in the install guide.

[crunchman12001]

X2 on above. Raise the tongue of the TT with the jack to relieve pressure on the bars to remove. Also works when putting the bars up.
crunchman

[vinmaker]

The set up is very easy. I would recommend you download the installation manual and go thru the steps to ensure that it was installed correctly.

Vin.

[Boso]

Had to change everything on mine even move the ball up about 2" but when I got it leveled it pulled very good can can call a tech at equalizer company he will help you also

[bikendan]

huggybear, you didn't mention your unhitching procedure.

if you aren't using the jack, to relieve the pressure, you'll always have problems disconnecting, even when the setup is right.

we have the same hitch and have only needed the pry bar to unhook once, on an unlevel site.
you have to jack it up high, to relieve the pressure on the bars, then lower it to get the coupler unhooked from the ball.
that's why many of us get an electric tongue jack, to make this process easy as pie.

[taken]

Agreed with all of the above. Yes, the bars should be level or parallel with the frame. Yes, you should get the instructions and redo the install. It's VERY easy to do with simple hand tools. As to the unhooking, Dan is correct. Raise your jack up to relieve the pressure, remove the bars, lower the jack to release the ball coupler, then raise again to lift the coupler off the ball. To setup to go, reverse the procedure. The E4 is a fantastic hitch and once you set it up correctly and use your jack to make life easy, you will be very happy!

[Boso]

Useing your tongue jack is the easiest way to unhook but if it is set up right the hook tool is not difficult to use but you will seldom need to use it

[brbarrell]

I own a 2003 29QBSS and use the Equalizer 4 Point system. The bars should be level. To get unhooked put a lot of blocking under the tongue jack because you are going to have to lift the trailer and back end of tow vehicle high enough to get the weight off the bars to remove the bars from the L brackets. I would reinstall the Equalizer system yourself just follow the directions on the Equalizer website. You may have to turn your hitch bar up to get more rise from the tow vehicle position.

[Taranwanderer]

Originally Posted by brbarrell

To get unhooked put a lot of blocking under the tongue jack because you are going to have to lift the trailer and back end of tow vehicle high enough to get the weight off the bars to remove the bars from the L brackets.

This was the part I was waiting for someone to say. When I had my Eq 4-point, I had to use the electric tongue jack and lift the entire shebang enough so that the back of the truck would come up, not just the front of the trailer. My bars were level, too. Once I got it up that far, the bars would just slide out with little effort. Then lower to unlock the coupler, then raise again to get the coupler off the ball. X2 on reinstalling it to get the bars level. Good luck.

[Platokidd]

Originally Posted by brbarrell

You may have to turn your hitch bar up to get more rise from the tow vehicle position.

Bars should be level to the frame or pointed down slightly in towing position towards the camper.
Adding more washers to the hitch head if you need more lift. Or in other words turning the hitch head down.

On another note: I like painting my "L brackets and spring bar" contact point with a product called "mower guard"
Its a graphite paint and will embed its self into the metal over time. The metal will develop a black sheen over time.( Re-spray as necessary )
No messy lubes, less noise and can use the new Snap L-pin

[drhuggybear]

First off, thank you all for your feedback. Second, sorry for not explaining better. I was on my phone.

I was using my powered tongue jack to lift the camper. The site itself wasn't level (3 blocks on one side) so it made it that much harder to remove the bars. This is my second camper using the Equilizer and my previous camper was easy. This one is taller so there is already that height difference and the shank was adjusted. But the dealer didn't set the bars parallel. They had the L brackets higher than the bar connections to the hitch itself. This, along with a non-level site, made things really difficult.

I looked at the instructions and made some slight adjustments before I left but I will certainly be tweaking things some more (washers and L-bracket adjustments) to shore everything up.

[lbrjet]

Plato, thanks for the tip. I spray paint mine and it rubs right off again. Will pick up a can next time I'm at NAPA.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[Flagstaffer06]

It took me a few miles to get it dialed in just right but, I really am impressed with my Equalizer setup it does really well compared to my last setup.

As others have said, you'll want it to be level and it's a simple adjustment to make.

X2 on the thanks for the tip PLATO, I'll be picking up a can of that as well.

[Aggie Dad]

Why are you painting parts on your Equalizer 4pt hitch? I just had the equalizer 4 pt hitch installed on my truck/trailer and was curios

[drhuggybear]

Over time when the metal rubs against each other and will create spots for rust to begin to form. Annually you should do some maintenance to knock off of the rust and then hit the worn spots with fresh paint.

[Boso]

I think the rust creates more friction and you have less sway it will clean itself you don't need to do anything to it but it doesn't look as new or clean but it will have less movement with more friction or least that was my feeling over the years

[goduc]

That paint will be worn off on the 1st camping trip. Let it rust. It would take 100's of years to rust out. If you want to paint anything then paint the L brackets as they're probably exposed to rain more than the spring bars which are probably kept indoors for the winter.