Equalizer installation help

tntrac · 10-27-2012, 11:14 PM

I started at 4 pm and worked until dark but can't get the adjustments I want.

The trailer is level, but the back of the tacoma (2012) only came up 1/4" with the bars in placed.

Here are the measurements:

Uncoupled (rear fenders, from ground to to fender): 36"

Coupled (rear fenders, from ground to to fender): 34.25"

Coupled with arm bars in placed (rear fenders, from ground to to fender): 34.5"

Btw the front didn't change much (increased 1/2 inch). The trailer is 22' feet from bumper to tongue with dry weight 3926, tongue weight 416 (manufacturer numbers). I did all the measurements without driving it

Road-King · 10-27-2012, 11:33 PM

Sounds to me like you might need more washers, to tilt the hitch head back more (tilt the hitch ball towards the tt). When you do that it will increase the tension on the bars and move more weight from the rear axle of the tv to the front axle of the tv.

Triguy · 10-27-2012, 11:35 PM

A few thoughts for you.

First, that tongue weight percentage is technically okay at 10.6% but I would recommend you go heavier. I prefer 13%. YMMV and 10-15% is fine, but my trailers have pulled better with a TW greater than 11%.

So the rear wheel well falls between the uncoupled height and the coupled but no WD height. That's good. The thing you don't want is over adjustment in the rear.

I believe that both are important, but the primary one is the front wheel well measurement. Is the front at least half way back to its uncoupled height? Check out pages 17-18 in the Equal-I-zer manual. Try to get that to be correct and then check where your rear is at. Be aware that Toyota as its own recommendation for your truck.

Last, the dry weight you mention. Is that from the sticker? If so, it's heavier now that you added a battery, any cargo or dealer mods.

(I moved this thread to towing, hitches and toads so it doesn't get lost in the shuffle within General)

tntrac · 10-27-2012, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triguy

A few thoughts for you.

First, that tongue weight percentage is technically okay at 10.6% but I would recommend you go heavier. I prefer 13%. YMMV and 10-15% is fine, but my trailers ave pulled better with a TW greater than 11%.

So the rear wheel well falls between the uncoupled height and the coupled but no WD height. That's good. The thing you don't want is over adjustment in the rear.

I believe that both are important, but the primary one is the front wheel well measurement. Is the front at least half way back to its uncoupled height? Check out pages 17-18 in the Equal-I-zer manual. Try to get that to be correct and then check where your rear is at. Be aware that Toyota as its own recommendation for your truck.

Last, the dry weight you mention. Is that from the sticker? If so, it's heavier now that you added a battery, any cargo or dealer mods.

That is the sticker. I measured both propane tanks to be 104lbs filled. So I assumed the tongue weight is more (probably 600 lbs).

Triguy · 10-27-2012, 11:45 PM

One more thing. I said above that Toyota has their own recommendation. Specifically, I think the manual says to adjust the weight distribution hitch until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.

But please check your Toyota manual to confirm.

tntrac · 10-28-2012, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triguy

One more thing. I said above that Toyota has their own recommendation. Specifically, I think the manual says to adjust the weight distribution hitch until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.

But please check your Toyota manual to confirm.

Thank you guys. I will try again when I get some free time.

lindy · 10-28-2012, 06:58 AM

Sound like you need to move the "L" bracket on the TT tongue up 1 hole. I know that some say that the bars must stay parallel to the tongue, mine don't. To achieve the proper weight distribution to the front of the trk, the bars are a bit closer to the tongue at the "L" bracket then at the hitch head and the trl pulls and rides great. I wouldn't recommend adding over 6 washers on the hitch head, any more then that and you run into issues with uncoupling the trl from the hitch due to the angle.

tntrac · 10-28-2012, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lindy

Sound like you need to move the "L" bracket on the TT tongue up 1 hole. I know that some say that the bars must stay parallel to the tongue, mine don't. To achieve the proper weight distribution to the front of the trk, the bars are a bit closer to the tongue at the "L" bracket then at the hitch head and the trl pulls and rides great. I wouldn't recommend adding over 6 washers on the hitch head, any more then that and you run into issues with uncoupling the trl from the hitch due to the angle.

Lindy,

I was going to ask the same question about the issue of coupling/uncoupling with a slight angle. On my boat trailers, if the truck are slight angle, it wouldn't go

. My driveway is slight angle

tntrac · 10-28-2012, 01:56 PM

Working on it right now. Can you swing the arms (bars) freely? How come the video shows the arms can swing freely, but I am having a hard time?

I had park the truck straight or else it won't work.

pwrstroke2012 · 10-28-2012, 02:15 PM

yes. arms should swing freely.There will be some resistance though. they should be torqued at 45# I believe, look at manual.

tntrac · 10-28-2012, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwrstroke2012

yes. arms should swing freely.There will be some resistance though. they should be torqued at 45# I believe, look at manual.

Thank you. The factory default, even superman can't move it

tntrac · 10-28-2012, 09:33 PM

Finally got the installation done. Using 6 washers worked for me. Also, the shank, I had reverse it (Equalizer web site suggest the shank down). With the shank being down, I scraped the driveway so I didn't want to take a chance like last night.

I didn't drive the freeway to test it out but did only the local street.

Since the ball is tilted, does that reduce the effectiveness of the locking mechanism to lock in the ball? Just being paranoid I guess.

lindy · 10-29-2012, 07:34 AM

No 6 washers is fine that's what I've had on mine for 2 years now.

pwrstroke2012 · 10-29-2012, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lindy

No 6 washers is fine that's what I've had on mine for 2 years now.

X2...no worries! You should lube and re-torque (per manufacturer recommendations) your link plate bolts every year.

Road-King · 10-29-2012, 08:16 AM

There is a video on youtube showing the setup process. They said in that video to start with 5 washers, then add or subtract as needed. So 6 should be no problem at all.

lbrjet · 10-29-2012, 12:08 PM

8 washers is the max. Loosen the hitch head socket bolts and lube the top and bottom areas around the sockets and swing the sockets back and forth with a bar to distribute the lube. I tighten mine to 60 and that works well for me. The sockets are the main sway control so it is important to adjust these correctly.

lindy · 10-29-2012, 02:31 PM

I'm not sure of the 8 washers, I've heard people having trouble uncoupling because of the ball angle while using 7 washers. Might just have been an issue with the trl tongue too.

lbrjet · 10-29-2012, 04:08 PM

8 washers is taken directly from the installation manual.

wyo700 · 10-29-2012, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lindy

I'm not sure of the 8 washers, I've heard people having trouble uncoupling because of the ball angle while using 7 washers. Might just have been an issue with the trl tongue too.

I have seven washers in mine and has never had a problem with coupling or uncoupling. When the bars are attached it almost brings hitch head back to straight up. I need to transfer a little more weight and will be putting the 8th washer in next year to try it out.

thebrakeman · 10-31-2012, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triguy

One more thing. I said above that Toyota has their own recommendation. Specifically, I think the manual says to adjust the weight distribution hitch until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.

But please check your Toyota manual to confirm.

Exactly. The main goal of any WDH kit should be to return every bit of lost weight back to the front axle. The rear measurements are only a check to be sure you didn't actually increase the rear beyond stock.

You need to shift more weight, by adding more washers. If you are already level, then you may need to drop the head on the shank to the next slot. But try the washers first. If less than 1" tongue-high, that's OK.

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