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Old 01-12-2021, 10:23 AM   #21
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To stop the brackets from moving on the Anderson I just drilled a small amount into the frame so the set screws had a pocket for the point. Put some silicone in there to prevent rust. So far no issues.

I like the option to adjust the hitch on the fly. If we are running lighter than normal I can back off the weight distribution. I have had times where I loose traction on gravel if it is moving too much weight forward.
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Old 01-12-2021, 01:37 PM   #22
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Been using the Andersen since I first got my trailer and truck back in 2014. It's the only wdh I'm familiar with since I've only been towing since 2014 but it's light, easy to hook up and disconnect and quiet. In my experience, they have excellent customer service too. My friends who use the bars don't like it, after all these years of watching me connect and disconnect, they're not convinced, but I haven't had any issues with it.
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Old 01-12-2021, 04:10 PM   #23
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I used the EQ4 with a 28ft. 700lb. Coachmen and my 2016 Ford F150 and had no problems with any sway or push from tractor trailers. I now have a Chevy 2500 with a 34 ft. trailer. I'm using a Reese Hitch and no problems with it. I wish I had my EQ4 back though for some reason.
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Old 01-12-2021, 05:21 PM   #24
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I'm in similar position as the OP with a Mini Lite 2513s on order. I have a Reese WDH that was given to me, but wondering if the Andersen or the EQ4 would be a better fit. In the short-term the Reese will be fine, but i like the apparent simplicity of setting up the other two. This is our first TT and we will be towing with a RAM 1500.No plans on upsizing the trailer w/o an upsize in the TV.
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Old 01-12-2021, 10:40 PM   #25
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I've had both and as for how they work, I couldn't tell the difference. I had the Anderson first so I thought the E2 would be harder to hook up but it isn't. Once the trailer in on the ball, I use the electric tongue jack to lift them both up to set the arms. Do the same when removing them.
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Old 01-18-2021, 08:23 PM   #26
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I tow TTs commercially for years so a crazy amount of miles 12 months a years 47 states. Own an Andersen but have used an E4 as well as other WDHs. The thing is especially if you are towing a larger TT with a softer 1/2 ton truck is to get the hitch adjusted to get the results you need for the safest most stable setup. Too often people get too little weight distribution out of their WDH.

If you just one time take your wet say 6k plus TT & truck to a CAT scale. Adjust it by results then sort of stick to that same setting you will unless you dramatically change the way you load your truck or trailer always get a safe stable tow. Pretty much no matter which WDH you are using. Are their differences, are some better than others, or have more appropriately sized bars.. yes. That said its more about the setup. If you adjust your WDH & loading so that you replace your unloaded steer weight and work towards say 12% tongue weight it will be safe & stable as it can be and assuming you are not over Mfgr specs will normally be two fingers driveable.

People talk about stuff like stacking up weigh guesstimates towards a payload sticker number. Not to say watching your GVWR gross vehicle weight rating, CVWR combined vehicle weight rating, max axle, max receiver etc isn't of value it it. But if you keep your eye on the ball and keep the main thing the main thing so to speak the other numbers have generally fallen in line and you will be pleased with your results.
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The answer to what can my 1/2 ton tow; Generically whatever TT has a GVWR less than TVís max tow rating. Specifically is found on CAT scale via weight distribution with TV TT & WDH. Best motor & gearing all 5 Mfgs within specs IE safe & stable normally to 8k but passengers & bedload reduce this. RAM 1500 ED max tow 9,200, max axle ratings 3,900, max 09-18 CVWR 15,950, axle weights me & gear 3,240 steer 2,560 drive
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