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Old 04-07-2020, 07:13 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by LUM View Post
Brake is set on 10. Will not lock up to adjust the gain
When you plug in, does the truck recognize the trailer? Do you get the "trailer connected" on the dash? Trailer lights work?
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Old 04-07-2020, 12:55 PM   #22
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Yes
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Old 04-07-2020, 01:38 PM   #23
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My thoughts also. Take it in.
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Old 04-07-2020, 02:19 PM   #24
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If I remember correctly, GM uses a separate fuse for the lights and the brakes on the trailer. The dealer (RV) had a spare one on hand when we picked up our 5th wheel. They are both(were) in the electrical control box on the driver side fender under the hood.

Hope this helps. Look in your manual, the fuses may be in your glove box in a little bag.
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:49 PM   #25
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have the fuse in it
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:15 AM   #26
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Since the Yukon is under warranty, I would take it to the dealer. They can hook up a computer to the trailer plug to test the trailer system on the vehicle.

Newer vehicles needs to "see" a trailer hooked up before they send the correct voltage to the trailer brakes.
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Old 04-08-2020, 11:51 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by stevemedic View Post
Sorry for the late response... When I first plugged the trailer to my Yukon I did receive "Service Trailer Brakes" or something to that effect as I have not been able to duplicate the message since. I was able to get a reading when I squeezed the two manual applicators together but when released, nothing on my dash. Usually the break controller will automatically default on my dash screen with colored lights etc.. when it's plugged in but that doesn't happen, I have to manually scroll to that screen and still no lights indicating it's connected.
I stopped into my local RV supply and service store 2 days ago and one mechanic mentioned that GMC had a habit of not putting in the square fuse to the break controller in Yukons and Tahoe's because most people do not use them to tow large items. Luckily my GMC dealer was right next door to the RV store and I pulled into the service dept. and explained my issue and asked them about the fuse. My answer was that used to be the practice but now they all come installed. So I made an appt. to have my new vehicle serviced with them in about a week. I'll keep you all posted.
Have you hooked it up to another trailer that you know works?
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Old 04-08-2020, 05:00 PM   #28
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Yes I took it to Florida and back. Good thing I have a Allison train and a exhaust brake
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Old 04-08-2020, 05:26 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Les Clemetson View Post
I did mean shoes. The tech that figured it out said it's an easy fix, you unbolt the whole plate behind the wheel that holds the solenoid and brake shoes and bolt a new one on.
When you unbolt the whole plate and replace it, you are not only replacing the shoes, but you are also replacing the magnet. (And as you said, it's easier for him and he makes more money selling you the whole thing vice just replacing the shoes.)

So I understand he may have told you it was the shoes, but I believe your issue was a bad magnet. The shoes have nothing to do with the electrical side of your brakes. Your brake controller is only looking at the electrical circuit resistance/current flow. Your brake shoes won't affect that. When you plug in your trailer, without actually stepping on the brakes, the controller sends a very small current flow to the trailer; that's how it senses if there's a trailer attached. The brake shoes would not affect that small current flow.

Now, you may not be totally incorrect, in that the only way a shoe could "short out the system" is if it damaged the magnet; although it's still the magnet that's shorting, not the shoe. So, it may be the shoe caused the magnet problem, but that's a failure mode I've never heard of, if it did.
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Old 04-08-2020, 06:04 PM   #30
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i just cant adjust the gain have it on 10
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Old 04-08-2020, 08:18 PM   #31
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I had the same issue on my 2012 2500HD. Doing an internet search shows this is a known issue with Chevy/GMC trucks and SUVs.

My issue was a module located above the rear axel near the spare tire. If I recall correctly it was a sub $100 part.


Being your vehicle is new, Id take it in for warranty.

Good luck!

Chris
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Old 04-08-2020, 09:23 PM   #32
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OP already said back in post #4 he is taking it to the dealer.
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