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06-10-2022, 10:51 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,239
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Chocks
With our dual axle trailer, I use 8 rubber chocks from Harbor Freight.
I get our TT in place, then level left to right, then tightly chock the wheels, then unhitch and level front to rear. Safety chains are removed AFTER the hitch clears the ball and the trailer is level.
I've seen more than one run through the woods by itself. Not a calming sight.
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06-13-2022, 05:31 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 222
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I use and recommend Fastway One-Step Chocks on both sides of a dual-axle TT or 5vr. A one-time setup for proper length, and after that a few seconds to install, and a few more to remove. I do side-to-side leveling with boards long enough for both tires to sit on, and the One-Step chocks then fit right into place on top of the leveling boards. EZPZ
A couple of times I neglected to remove one chock before attempting to move our TT and it wasn't about to go anywhere.
$45 each on Amazon.
__________________
2015 Wildcat Maxx 28' pushing a 2020 F350 6.7L
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06-13-2022, 06:24 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relder
Proud owner of a 2022 2883ws, I have an issue with trailer slipping back sometimes when unhitching. I use the yellow stand blocks, chock the rear wheels but it seems like most of the times the trailer will slide back as I pull truck forward. Mostly a slight amount but other times an inch or so. If I have to level my rig it makes for a tricky unhitch. Suggestions appreciated.
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What are you using to level your rig side to side? If using leveling blocks and tires are in the middle of blocks, and you have each tire chocked front and rear, 1” is not bad.
If really concerned, chock each tire front and back, and use an “X” chock between tires.
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06-13-2022, 07:28 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: southern Ca.
Posts: 117
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Leveling
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlynn721
What are you using to level your rig side to side? If using leveling blocks and tires are in the middle of blocks, and you have each tire chocked front and rear, 1” is not bad.
If really concerned, chock each tire front and back, and use an “X” chock between tires.
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I use Hyper curve leveling blocks with wheel chocks with rubber pad.
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06-13-2022, 07:30 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: southern Ca.
Posts: 117
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I use the fast way one step chock as well, I believe I wasn't setting it up correctly to really lock in place. It does now!!
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06-13-2022, 07:36 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,263
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X-chocks are no substitute for ground to tire chocks. G2T chocks prevent the tire from moving when properly applied. X-chocks can allow the tires to move, regardless of how tight they are applied.
I use them on my 5th with the auto leveling, but they are the last thing to go on, first thing to come off. Also never put them on freshly traveled tires, when the tires cool they can almost fall off. They do exactly what they are designed to do, take the wiggle out, but not a substitute for the real ones. They work in pairs to get the wiggle out, but don't work at all to prevent both axles from moving at the same time like chocks do. .
__________________
Goliath 2019 F-450 Platinum
2020 Arctic Wolf 3660SUITE
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06-13-2022, 08:32 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Front Royal, VA
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qwkynuf
Mine's a bumper pull, so maybe not apples-to-apples, but the premise should be similar.
When I park my trailer, I get it lined up and leveled, and then I put chocks behind the rear trailer axle - the big black Harbor Freight ones that NMWildcat mentions. Then I get in the truck, put it in reverse, and back up enough so that the chocks are preventing me from rolling back any further.
Then I put it in park and go put another set of chocks in front of the front axle. I put the truck in neutral to let the trailer even out the pressure between the two sets of chocks, so now it is lightly wedged between them. Back into Park for the truck.
Then I set my X-Chocks (because belt *and* suspenders, right?), and jump back in the truck. put it in neutral, foot off of the brake. If nothing moves, I'm happy - and I will go ahead and unhook. If I feel anything pushing or pulling, I start over and fix it.
If you have a 5th wheel and auto levelers and such, you probably don't need all of those steps. But if nothing moves when the truck is in neutral, then nothing should move (much) when you unhitch.
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He’s right you know. If you follow this parking technique you will have zero issues. It’s what I have been doing for years…..
__________________
Bill Burke
Firefighter, NREMT
2020 Forest River Vibe VBT32BH
05 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0
Wife W/3 rescue dogs & 12-16 chickens
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06-13-2022, 10:17 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relder
Proud owner of a 2022 2883ws, I have an issue with trailer slipping back sometimes when unhitching. Suggestions appreciated.
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Easy, effective, and cheap
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06-14-2022, 05:05 AM
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#29
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Yukon_Bill
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 79
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I put the truck in reverse and forward to move ever so slightly, to ensure no pressure on pentel, with wheels chocked good in both directions. I never have issues. Good luck and happy RVing
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06-14-2022, 12:45 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 8
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Yes, chocks kicked in place are the solution. But on one particularly unlevel site, I also pulled the pin for the trailer brakes until the truck was clear and the trailer was leveled. Curious on your thoughts on this, as it was a seat of the pants idea.
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06-14-2022, 01:03 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBikePaddle
Yes, chocks kicked in place are the solution. But on one particularly unlevel site, I also pulled the pin for the trailer brakes until the truck was clear and the trailer was leveled. Curious on your thoughts on this, as it was a seat of the pants idea.
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Cant hurt. I dont do it because the pin can be a PITA to get back in at times!
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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06-14-2022, 06:26 PM
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#32
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Yukon_Bill
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 79
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Trailer pin
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBikePaddle
Yes, chocks kicked in place are the solution. But on one particularly unlevel site, I also pulled the pin for the trailer brakes until the truck was clear and the trailer was leveled. Curious on your thoughts on this, as it was a seat of the pants idea.
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I’m not sure it’s a viable solution, as the trailer will still move with it pulled. Granted slight movement but caught cause shifting. I just switched over to a 5th wheel gooseneck Ball system. However, both systems need pressure off the pintal in order to release from trailer. To do so requires lifting trailer slightly. If legs are down and secure with weight settled I wouldn’t expect movements when release handle is pulled disengaging hitch. I use wheel chocks designed for 18-wheel rigs which works far better then plastic chocks. They have the scissors types that fit between the wheels, but my wheels are too close together to use. Best of luck
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