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01-14-2018, 01:03 AM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 58
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I worked in the trailer industry for 14+ years and we used barrier (plastic) tape where ever there was dissimilar metals in contact with each other.
+1 on the magnetic stainless steel check.
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01-15-2018, 09:22 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 851
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The connection is still always going to be made through the fasteners. If anything by taping the large contact area you will concentrate the corrosion of the aluminum at the point where the fastener is. So you would have to tape the joint, sleeve the bolts with plastic, and use plastic washers on both sides.
What would be really easy is just adding a small zinc block on the aluminum as a sacrificial anode like on an outboard motor with an aluminum lower drive and a cast iron block.
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01-16-2018, 02:15 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 157
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Thanks to all for some fantastic advice. I've got my bracket built and am ready to bolt it all in. Using zinc coated bolts and 20 mil pvc pipe wrap where the brackets rest against the aluminum. I think as one poster mentioned, that I am over thinking it. I live in the dry southwest and this truck will never see snow or lots of rain.
But, alas, now I am thinking of dumping the whole plan and welding up 1/4 steel brackets coming off of the frame since the weight of the air tank is probably 20 lbs. Add 15 lbs for the compressor which vibrates in operation, and I don't know if I want to put that kind of stress on body parts. Even if it is a truck bed. I see those aluminum spot welds and think I might damage my truck if they come apart. I'm retiring soon and plan on this being the last truck I buy.
Thanks again to all for some great advice. I'll post some pics if any are interested of my final design.
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01-16-2018, 02:21 AM
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#24
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVtraveller
.........
Thanks again to all for some great advice. I'll post some pics if any are interested of my final design.
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I'd hope you would post pics! [emoji106]
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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01-16-2018, 08:12 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 289
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Before welding you better figure out how to protect the electronics. I put my tank and compressor inside my tool box. That may not be an option for you. Considered the underneath but figured it was way too complicated and access there was a negative.
__________________
2013 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
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01-16-2018, 08:46 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 851
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And don't use zinc on the bolts, the zinc coating will now be the sacrifice. Like I said, with steel and aluminum it's not the steel that corrodes faster, it is actually slowed down, it is the aluminum. But if you add zinc or any galvanized fasteners, now it's that coating. Just use normal stainless fasteners and they will last forever.
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01-16-2018, 12:13 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 157
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I won't be welding to or on the truck, but welding a bracket which will bolt to the frame.
__________________
Everything written by this author is not claimed to be fact nor fiction and may be considered seriously altered depending on the libation being consumed at time of writ.
2012 FR Stealth 2714 Toyhauler.
2017 Ford F 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 8' bed, 6.2 gas motor.
Various Desert Toys including a Rzr XP Turbo.
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01-16-2018, 12:17 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 157
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In regards to the zinc fasteners, I was following Ford's recommended fasteners, as listed in SVE Q-222. Which info was posted in this thread by Rich5117.
__________________
Everything written by this author is not claimed to be fact nor fiction and may be considered seriously altered depending on the libation being consumed at time of writ.
2012 FR Stealth 2714 Toyhauler.
2017 Ford F 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 8' bed, 6.2 gas motor.
Various Desert Toys including a Rzr XP Turbo.
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01-16-2018, 12:32 PM
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#29
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2007 WildCat 32QBBS
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,349
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This is probably getting deeper then it has too but anyways here's a fun read and an excerpt below.
http://www.aluminiumdesign.net/desig...on-resistance/
__________________
*Current: 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.0 diesel 4x4*
*Retired: 1987 F350 Crew Cab Dually 6.9 turbo diesel
2007 Forest River WildCat 32QBBS
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01-16-2018, 01:25 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 157
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That's an interesting read. I skimmed it. The pictures of the bolts is interesting too.
In the article it states that corrosion isn't a large issue in dry areas. And also that zinc coating is better than stainless. Humm..
Well, bottom line is, I'm not bolting on the wings of an airplane... And I don't expect a life span of more than 5 years for this air system...
__________________
Everything written by this author is not claimed to be fact nor fiction and may be considered seriously altered depending on the libation being consumed at time of writ.
2012 FR Stealth 2714 Toyhauler.
2017 Ford F 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 8' bed, 6.2 gas motor.
Various Desert Toys including a Rzr XP Turbo.
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01-16-2018, 01:40 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 643
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Ford has a repair specification that is available to the public on how to attach steel parts on their aluminum vehicles. I've looked around and can't find it at the moment. If I run across I will post a link here. As I recall the specify use of a barrier between the aluminum and steel. They also spec zinc coated steel hardware. You might also want to check with the Ford truck forum of your choice. I originally saw it on www.f150forum.com but is has been a couple of years since I needed the information.
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01-16-2018, 01:48 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilhouettePenny
I think Ford powder coats their frames, I could be wrong, and if so I don't see a problem mounting the bracket with dielectric grease then maybe sealing that with silicone caulk. Of course a thin sheet of rubber would be a good idea also.
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Never use silicone on aluminum. Silicone has a chemical in it which will corrode aluminum.
__________________
Chummy V
2014 Forester 2501TS
Ford E-450
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01-16-2018, 02:06 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 157
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Thanks. That would be SVE Q-222.
__________________
Everything written by this author is not claimed to be fact nor fiction and may be considered seriously altered depending on the libation being consumed at time of writ.
2012 FR Stealth 2714 Toyhauler.
2017 Ford F 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 8' bed, 6.2 gas motor.
Various Desert Toys including a Rzr XP Turbo.
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01-16-2018, 02:25 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVtraveller
Thanks. That would be SVE Q-222.
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That's it. Maybe I better bookmark it. Thanks.
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01-16-2018, 02:45 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stank Bait
I put my tank and compressor inside my tool box. That may not be an option for you. Considered the underneath but figured it was way too complicated and access there was a negative.
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Honestly, I wanted to do the same. I wanted to put it in a quality box in the front corner of the bed. I like Weather Guard , and almost purchased their small 36"x18"x18" box, which run about $400. But then I would have to cut the corner out to get it to fit tightly into corner, as there is a hump in the front bottom of the bed on Super Duties. And spending $400 on a box just to hack it up didn't seem like a good plan. Plus I can't weld aluminum for s%^t. I need the center of the bed open because I carry a motorcycle in the bed sometimes, and a cross bed tool box screams "Work truck". Which I didn't want..
__________________
Everything written by this author is not claimed to be fact nor fiction and may be considered seriously altered depending on the libation being consumed at time of writ.
2012 FR Stealth 2714 Toyhauler.
2017 Ford F 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 8' bed, 6.2 gas motor.
Various Desert Toys including a Rzr XP Turbo.
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01-16-2018, 10:08 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 851
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I think I read in an aluminum corrosion paper that the zinc is ok as long as it is thick enough to allow a stable rust layer to from on the iron underneath. Basically the coating is designed to fail, and as long as you don't have to remove the bolts ever what's left will be structurally stable. Looks like crap IMO but if Ford says to do it, I'd say it's fine.
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