Hitch choice for FW

[RetiredArmy]

I just bought a Cardinal 3625RT and I own a 2015 GMC Sierra 2500hd crew cab so I have the short bed and want to know what would be a good choice in hitches to pull this 5th wheel. GVWR is 16195 lbs so a 16k hitch or bigger and should I get a sliding hitch or not needed ???

[Bama Rambler]

With that diesel engine your payload is going to be a little limited so I'd recommend the Andersen Ultimate. In full disclosure, that's the hitch I have and love. You really need a 1-ton truck with that load.

Having said that, I'm sure you will get lots of different recommendations and pretty much all of them will work. But don't go with anything less than about 22,000 lb rating for that RV.

[Tundra 2014]

I would suggest the Anderson steel. It does not look like the corners of your trailer are cut back. So Anderson or Demco Auto-Slider(heavy Sucker-if you have a way to lift it out). I like the Demo as you do not have to get out of the truck to connect or disconnect, throw lever. You are already at weight limit, so overall the steel Anderson. Many people have the Aluminum Anderson and love them, I just like the steel better for the material. Personal choice, I can handle the extra weight of the steel Anderson.

[tomkatb]

Your nose is somewhat like my Cedar Creek 34RE.

I have the Anderson Aluminum. Love it.

We are careful backing up. You need to minimize the turns as much as possible. Over about 70 degrees damages the frame, suspension. Wait until you hear the creaking and tires scraping.

The auto slider will increase your payload on the truck by a bunch. Those hitches are neat, but really heavy.

[RetiredArmy]

Thank you all for your help I do have air bags in the back to help with the load and keeping things level

[SlowrideHD]

I'm very happy with my Curt Q-20. It easily breaks down into a couple sections so that helps immensely if you need to take it out of your truck.
I have used a Pullrite Superglide auto sliding hitch in the past and would not ever use one again, by choice.

[RetiredArmy]

Thank you I have looked at the Q20 and have been leaning towards it.

[KSH]

I like my pull rite super lite. I have a short bed.

[RetiredArmy]

Thank you. I have looked at them too

[MainelyUS]

We have a short bed with a Reese 20k sliding hitch. It come apart so it is easy to remove. The slide feature is very useful if your in a situation to engage it.

[GmaB]

Own a Rockwood 30 ft FW. Truck is a F350 flatbed. Bought an Anderson extended hitch. Smoothed our the ride immensely and gave me more turning room considering the short bed. Easy to install and remove. Best hitch we’ve ever had. A lot easier on the wallet too.

[raysen]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

With that diesel engine your payload is going to be a little limited so I'd recommend the Andersen Ultimate. In full disclosure, that's the hitch I have and love. You really need a 1-ton truck with that load.

Having said that, I'm sure you will get lots of different recommendations and pretty much all of them will work. But don't go with anything less than about 22,000 lb rating for that RV.

I FULLY AGREE



2010 355QBQ Sierra
2008 Ford F450

[Foothills]

Originally Posted by RetiredArmy

Thank you I have looked at the Q20 and have been leaning towards it.

I have the Curt A16 on a strong Dodge 2500HD, but a much smaller 5er. The Curt is handy to remove in 2 piece, but mine was stiff to hook up initially. Use plenty WD-40 and grease the fittings. It closes really tight for towing but a little different to hook up-Jaws don't look like they will open but they do. Also, lower the 5er hitch just a bit from the truck hook-up before you back into it. Real strong looking hitch but paint maybe doesn't hold up as well as others.

[Tall frog]

Originally Posted by RetiredArmy

Thank you all for your help I do have air bags in the back to help with the load and keeping things level

We have a very similar rig, a 2018 2500 gmc and CC36CK2, my trailer is 16,000 grose and travels at about 14,500. We have the Andersen aluminum hitch and love it. Your truck will handle the load fine, 2500 and 3500 are exactly the same less 1 overload spring. I saw a copy of my truck only in a 3500 and his door sticker said loading of 3200lb. My pin weight is 2700lb. I did upgrade tires to 275/65/20e to give plenty of load capacity. I have the airide pin box so I mounted the Andersen reciver turned toward the trailer, all works great and still can turn almost 80 degrees, IF ON GRAVEL if not never go more than about 70 degrees. Good luck with your set up.

[CaptnJohn]

B&W and Curt as a distant 2nd. I used the same B&W Patriot 18k slider on 3 Ford SB trucks. Like it so much it’s in my dually lb and will not need a slider

[stepdad]

I have a short bed SRW pickup 3/4 ton. Always use overload springs. Towed a 40 rig, gross 15k loaded. I use the Comfort Ride Hitch. Mount pin 4 inches behind the axle. This will get you clearance and still clear your tailgate. The ride and towing is not any issue. The recommendation is right over axle, but I have never had a handling or braking problem. Being it s a 3/4 ton I moved to a 35’ rig, so I can be legal for my GVW. Both rigs tow all over the country with no problems.
Sliding hitches are heavy, expensive, and a potential for forgetting to pull handle, or getting jammed.
I also use the highest rated tires for load carrying. A blowout can be a nite mare!

[hbillsmith]

Originally Posted by RetiredArmy

I just bought a Cardinal 3625RT and I own a 2015 GMC Sierra 2500hd crew cab so I have the short bed and want to know what would be a good choice in hitches to pull this 5th wheel. GVWR is 16195 lbs so a 16k hitch or bigger and should I get a sliding hitch or not needed ???Attachment 223804

I've had the 2015 GMC Sierra 2500HD double cab with the standard 6.6' bed (if yours is a Crew cab not double bed, your bed is 5.5') since it was new and I purchased it and an Andersen Ultimate to haul our Wildcat 5th wheel (GWWR 12,500). The trucks sticker says my Payload is 2,503 lbs. After putting on a bed cover and side step bars, I installed the Andersen in the bed, filled up the diesel and pulled around to the Cat scales. The calculation shows my available payload (i.e. Pin weight for the trailer) is 2,250 lbs. The Widcat's sticker show a dry pin weight of 1,565 lbs.

So we loaded up the trailer with bedding, towels, kitchen items, and a grill. Headed back to the scales and weighed with and without the trailer attached. Trailer load on the hitch shows I'm carring a pin weight of 2,300 lbs (just over my capacity). In the last 4 years or so and after several re-CATs over the years, my pin load has creeped up to a little over 2,400 llbs. We've now camped in 47 states and towed 30,000 miles. No problems, tows great. The last 15,000 miles have been even better since Forest River changed my original pin box from the LCI std. to the much better MorRyde RPB (rubber pin box).

I do use a Curt 4" tow ball extension (see attached). This replaces the OEM turn-over ball and has the effect of moving the pivot point 4" back toward the tailgate.

Lastly, as others have said, your 5th wheel weight may be more suited to a 1-ton truck (especially if mountain driving is in your plans). If you decide the truck will be just fine, do note that you may want to add air bags so that if you are driving at night your headlights won't be pointing high. The air bags will not increase you payload capability but they do solve the head light issue and if you get in a particularly rough stretch of road, it's nice to stiffin the back end to improve the ride. I have airbags but since I don't usually tow at night and I usually travel good roads, I rarely use them.

[RetiredArmy]

Thank you for all the information. It really helps me figure out what I'm gonna do. I'm trying to stay a way from a 1 ton because in some states like texas the total GVWR of truck and rv would exceed what the state limits are for having a class A lic and I'm not talking about a CDL lic. So with that said even though it's an rv and most states don't require a class A when towing if I was to have an accident passing through Texas let's say with a 1 ton and my rv and didnt have a class A lic I would get a ticket for not being licensed and there for my insurance would not cover the accident.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by RetiredArmy

Thank you for all the information. It really helps me figure out what I'm gonna do. I'm trying to stay a way from a 1 ton because in some states like texas the total GVWR of truck and rv would exceed what the state limits are for having a class A lic and I'm not talking about a CDL lic. So with that said even though it's an rv and most states don't require a class A when towing if I was to have an accident passing through Texas let's say with a 1 ton and my rv and didnt have a class A lic I would get a ticket for not being licensed and there for my insurance would not cover the accident.

I don't believe that's accurate. As far as I understand it, licensing requirements are reciprocal. Meaning, if you're legal in your state- you're legal in the state you're driving through even if they have higher/more stringent requirements.

As for insurance not covering it, insurance is there for when we do stupid things. My father-in-law started his car and then ran inside to pee before rolling out one morning (illegal in PA, as far as I recall). He came out and the car was gone. It was recovered but insurance paid the claims to fix it back up. Same with running a red-light and hitting someone. Same as speeding and being in an accidenet.

[RetiredArmy]

That's great to know, thank you. I had watch a YouTube video from Big Truck Big RV labeled you're Illegally towing your fifth wheel and RVs, must watch and it did make sense and I planned on spending a lot of time down there this summer.