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09-19-2019, 09:59 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Hitch Tightener
I bought the hitch tightener and the nuts dont want to stay tight when using on my husky center line hitch.
Iam thinking maybe too much movement/weight. I am using the supplied nuts, washers, and lock washer.
When I get to my destination, the nuts are loose and it is not doing it job anymore. And I make them really tight, even to the point of bending it a little. Any ideas? or is there others that your using that stay tight and work. Thanks.
https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Autom...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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09-19-2019, 10:04 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Try loctight on the nuts.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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09-19-2019, 01:50 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 183
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I tried that hitch tightener and found that it was just not heavy duty enough. It would probably be ok if you were just using a hitch carrier, but not a travel trailer.
Try this one instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just installed it on my hitch, and I'm heading out for 2,000 miles tomorrow. I'll report back at the end of my trip.
__________________
2013 Ram 1500 CC 4WD
2019 Rockwood 2503s
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09-19-2019, 02:31 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottnlindsay
I bought the hitch tightener and the nuts dont want to stay tight when using on my husky center line hitch.
Iam thinking maybe too much movement/weight. I am using the supplied nuts, washers, and lock washer.
When I get to my destination, the nuts are loose and it is not doing it job anymore. And I make them really tight, even to the point of bending it a little. Any ideas? or is there others that your using that stay tight and work. Thanks.
https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Autom...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Since you have already spent the money try adding lock nuts-a second set of nuts that are tightened against the others. You will need two wrenches to do this.
__________________
2019 Cedar Creek 29RE
2017 Silverado Duramax 3500
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09-19-2019, 02:38 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 39
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Just curious what’s the point of this?
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09-19-2019, 03:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodLark-SC
I tried that hitch tightener and found that it was just not heavy duty enough. It would probably be ok if you were just using a hitch carrier, but not a travel trailer.
Try this one instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just installed it on my hitch, and I'm heading out for 2,000 miles tomorrow. I'll report back at the end of my trip.
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Let me know how that one works out. It looks like the idea Rocco52 had by using the two lock nuts. Thanks
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09-19-2019, 03:55 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisRR
Just curious what’s the point of this?
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When you put your hitch into your receiver there is play and it moves/rattles. This just keeps it all tight and no play in receiver. Its not really a must, just a preference.
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09-19-2019, 03:56 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
Try loctight on the nuts.
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I thought of that, but I need to take it off/on every time I use the hitch.
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09-19-2019, 04:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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Blue Loctight does not require heat to remove. I use it on anything that a lockout won't hold. Read the package label to get the right one. Only,use the RED if you don't want to take apart all the time.
__________________
2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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09-19-2019, 04:34 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
Blue Loctight does not require heat to remove. I use it on anything that a lockout won't hold. Read the package label to get the right one. Only,use the RED if you don't want to take apart all the time.
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Blue loctite, good to know. Thank you.
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09-20-2019, 03:13 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocco52
Since you have already spent the money try adding lock nuts-a second set of nuts that are tightened against the others. You will need two wrenches to do this.
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Or replace original nuts with "Nylock" nuts.
The added nylon material staked into one side will keep the nuts from loosening on their own. Double nuts work too but require two wrenches of the same size.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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09-20-2019, 03:26 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottnlindsay
I bought the hitch tightener and the nuts dont want to stay tight when using on my husky center line hitch.
Iam thinking maybe too much movement/weight. I am using the supplied nuts, washers, and lock washer.
When I get to my destination, the nuts are loose and it is not doing it job anymore. And I make them really tight, even to the point of bending it a little. Any ideas? or is there others that your using that stay tight and work. Thanks.
https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Autom...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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I have that one currently and have to torque the poo out of it to keep the nuts on. I had one similar to the other posted a while back but it bent under the weight of the camper.
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09-20-2019, 04:24 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Or replace original nuts with "Nylock" nuts.
The added nylon material staked into one side will keep the nuts from loosening on their own. Double nuts work too but require two wrenches of the same size.
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I will give them a try, thanks. Lots of idea's here. I will try and use what works.
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09-20-2019, 04:25 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquiggyFreud
I have that one currently and have to torque the poo out of it to keep the nuts on. I had one similar to the other posted a while back but it bent under the weight of the camper.
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Okay, so I am not alone here. I will try some options given. Thanks
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09-20-2019, 04:51 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,114
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I've got one that's 200% better than either of those, I'll look at it tonight and post the brand, think I found it on ebay. Really locks down the shank.
Found it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitch-Vise-...wAAOSw4e1dTF0U
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09-20-2019, 05:27 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Eastvale. CA
Posts: 345
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I'm going to get some flak for this but here goes, most people using hitch tighteners with a WDH are mounting them upside down. This stretches the bolts every time the hitch bounces up and down which loosens the nuts. The shank needs to be pulled upwards, not down.
When the WDH spring bars are 'loaded', the shank pivots vertically on the hitch pin, lifting the rear of the shank and forcing the forward portion of the shank downward. The majority of the tongue weight is applied to the hitch pin but the remainder of the load is applied to the nose of the shank where it contacts the floor of the hitch tube forward of the hitch pin. That's how the load is able to be transferred to the front of the TV.
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09-23-2019, 09:54 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nayther
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Thanks, I will give it a try if all else fails. Thank you for the post.
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09-23-2019, 09:57 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woo10-210
I'm going to get some flak for this but here goes, most people using hitch tighteners with a WDH are mounting them upside down. This stretches the bolts every time the hitch bounces up and down which loosens the nuts. The shank needs to be pulled upwards, not down.
When the WDH spring bars are 'loaded', the shank pivots vertically on the hitch pin, lifting the rear of the shank and forcing the forward portion of the shank downward. The majority of the tongue weight is applied to the hitch pin but the remainder of the load is applied to the nose of the shank where it contacts the floor of the hitch tube forward of the hitch pin. That's how the load is able to be transferred to the front of the TV.
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Thanks, I install mine the same as in your pic. I see that the one in pic uses two nuts. Maybe there is something to be said about that. Thanks for the post and info.
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09-23-2019, 10:02 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Western NY
Posts: 106
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I was using one similar to the OP's and was having the same problem with the bolts loosening up unless I really cranked down on them. The problem I found out yesterday when I got back from a short trip was that by cranking them down too much it ended up breaking the U bolt so you need to be careful with overtightening it I guess.
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09-23-2019, 10:31 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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My solution for this issue is "Heavy-duty Die Springs " placed around the U bolt studs and then install the nuts! Tighten until the movement is eliminated! I have a very long Hensley stinger bar plus Rock tamer flaps, so I know about "Movement "! Youroo!!
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