How to Shop for Tow Vehicle

[asquared]

Originally Posted by RockyMtnMarty

I tow a 2014 Spartan 1032 toy hauler....weighs the same as your Sanibel. I have a GMC 3500 Denali, Duramax with SRW and the short bed...6'6". My truck pulls that trailer with a 900 lb Harley in the garage all over the Rockies effortlessly...grossed out at 14000+. The DRW is probably not necessary until you cross perhaps 17000. The front cap on your trailer...if like mine, is angle cut on the corners vs straight across enabling much better clearance when maneuvering than a cap completely square in front. I have a Reese Elite slider....and in 3 years of 12 trips per year plus, I have never once had to use the slider. Good to have the slider in the event you change trailers at some point....but do some test maneuvers and you may find you may be fine with clearance as I have.

I have been shopping for a toy hauler within my duramax weight limits. Do you have catscale weights I could see? I have been hoping to find some real world numbers on a fiver TH.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Brand2328

Does anybody know it the king pin extender voids the warranty. I like the idea of a short bed with the extra 10''.

FR buys the frames and it is my understanding the frame manufacturer is responsible for the frame warranty. The definitive answer would be to call FR and verify what I just told you. If that is correct then obtain the name of the contact for the frame manufacturer and contact them.

You could also contact themanufacturer of the Pin Box Extension I used, Pop Up Industries and ask them.

Contact Us - Pop Up Hitch

For me it was not an issue since my warranty was expired anyway.

[The_Rhino]

Originally Posted by davel1971

Rhino, how some spends their money is their business, as long as they are spending it on the right equipment to get the job done. Some people like myself are ok with payments.

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Now THERE, Dave is some VERY good advice! While I do not agree that buying the biggest you can afford is always a good idea, I DO think helping with Needs is great, telling people what to/not to purchase I do not agree with.

I'm just trying to give folks sound financial advice - like I would my own friends - vs. telling them to "get the biggest truck you can afford" knowing that it (might) strap them into a long term commitment...

My point was that unlike RVs, used trucks are easier to sell (provided you owe less than fair resell value)... And, with a really good (used) deal, you can actually drive it for a couple years & still get close to what you paid... Which is why I gave my own example...

When we bought our used TV/TT 3-4 years ago I never thought we could afford/justify a (newer/reliable) MH/toad combo. However, finances have changed for the better & without a TV/TT payment (soon) we have that choice now.... You never know what 2-3 years from now will look like...

[rmac04401]

Go to decode this.com and enter the vin # and it will give you the specs and options for that truck it also gives you GVWR , payload, and towing capacity. I just used that to narrow the trucks I wanted to look at closer.

[Ron045]

Originally Posted by rmac04401

Go to decode this.com and enter the vin # and it will give you the specs and options for that truck it also gives you GVWR , payload, and towing capacity. I just used that to narrow the trucks I wanted to look at closer.

Thank you for sharing this web link. I was unaware of this. I'm so tired of asking car dealers for photos of yellow stickers and then they can't understand why I am no longer interested in the vehicle because it does not fit my capacity needs.

vr
Ron

[rmac04401]

Originally Posted by Ron045

Thank you for sharing this web link. I was unaware of this. I'm so tired of asking car dealers for photos of yellow stickers and then they can't understand why I am no longer interested in the vehicle because it does not fit my capacity needs.

vr
Ron

We Ron's have got to stick together[emoji106] I pick up my new to me TV tomorrow. Going from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Ron045

Thank you for sharing this web link. I was unaware of this. I'm so tired of asking car dealers for photos of yellow stickers and then they can't understand why I am no longer interested in the vehicle because it does not fit my capacity needs.

vr
Ron

Can't speak for other makes, but dealer should be able to give you the RPO codes for any GM VIN. Or check them yourself - they are usually on sticker in the glove box. You can find what the codes mean on the web. Google RPO Codes.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by asquared

You are for getting payload and axle weight ratings. Payload will be extremely limited in a 2500. On average people will add 1500 lbs to their fifth wheel (this does not include factory and dealer added options that's increase dry weight). So 12651 + 1500 = 14151 loaded trailer weight. Ideal pin weight should be 20-25% of loaded trailer weight. 20% pin weight would be 2830. This is the lower end of what you will be looking at for a pin weight. Add to that 150 lbs for the fifth wheel hitch and the weight of all occupants, pet and anything else in or on the truck and you will be well over a 2500's capabilities and tight on a 3500 SRW.

If the OP has a Ford Super Duty he will just fine with SRW. I have 3600 lbs of CC on my Lariat equipped F 350 Crew. My new trailer is 2400 lbs dry pin weight. We are sitting at 3,100 fully loaded now with a full tank of fresh water as well. We are under the trucks Max ratings.

The OP should check out the Ford SD, lesser trim will allow more CCC above 4,000 lbs.