Is 30 amps in my 7-pin enough for the Husky 4500 power jack?

[AlaskaErik]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Tongue jacks are only really lifting the "Tongue Weight" plus a little more due to it being a foot or so farther back. If you only have 800# or so of tongue weight I seriously doubt the jack is lifting more than 1,000 lbs.

Remember, if the weight of a trailer was equally balanced on the wheels a couple of 4 year old's could play teeter-totter on tongue and rear bumper

You have to remember the jack can also be supporting a lot of extra weight when parked, especially if the bed is up front. So getting a tongue jack that has a capacity that's just a little higher than the tongue weight might not be enough. That's why the general rule of half the weight of the trailer for weight rating of the jack. It's just a general rule of thumb.

[dward51]

Are you manually cranking down the stabilizer jacks or using a drill with adapter? You can do the same for the tongue jack if you are concerned about keeping power in the house battery. Some of them use the same adapter as the stabilizer jacks and you just flip open a rubber cover to access the "nut". But that sort of defeats the idea of a power jack I guess. But it gives you options for extended dry camping.

[ARhappycamper]

I put a tongue jack on my old camper that used a 7 pin connector on the TV exclusively. It came that way. No issues. Camper setup is still the same. Used it like that for 4 years until I sold the camper yesterday for the same $7000 I gave for it in 2016.

[Spkittrick1]

I’d go with the 4500. After I hook up, I raise the back of the truck up to help me put the tow bars on and also check to make sure hitch lock is working good. Also get the remote control. It makes life a lot easier.

[maxds]

Thanks again all. Learning lots of options from all of you and I appreciate it.

I finally pulled the trigger on the Husky 3000. The remote idea on the 4500 sounded nice - but I think the 3000 is a good balance of extra sturdiness, cost, amp usage, and a nice buffer of lift capability (if following the 1/2 trailer weight rule). And it comes with a hand crank if needed.

Sounds like the majority prefer to wire direct to the trailer battery setup so that is the route I'm planning. I'm also adding a battery cutoff switch to help reduce any trickle drain when we leave the camp ground for the day, etc. I noticed things like the carbon monoxide detector pull a decent current.

I've only had to use the hand jack on my trailer once the day I took delivery... and I must say I'm looking forward to not doing that again... lol.

[CedarCreekWoody]

It sounds like you have a good grasp on it all.