Is Geo Pro G19FD overweight safe with F150

[Treybecky]

Can I get some more sage advice. My perspective is: on my trailer, I know Im 400 lbs axle GAWR overweight (only 150 lbs without water), a little more than I was last year when I posted my scale tags. And over GAWR Trailer total by 610 lbs., but that spec is without hooked up nor supported by tongue jack. On my F150, without the trailer Im 10 lbs over on front axle GVWR, and 320 lbs over on my rear axle GAWR; but my door sticker says GVWR 7000 lbs, (I did upgrade the factory tires, does that count?) and Im at 7580 lbs with that 25 gal auxiliary tank of water in the truck bed... Not pretty...thats 580 lbs over GVWR if you dont count that my upgraded tires). I dont know what axles are in the F150, but I may be missing something and I’m way off. Doubt it. Ignorance was bliss. I wonder why the 2 axle individual truck sticker GAWR weights don’t add up to the GVWR? I appreciate all the great responses, learned a lot so far. Ive been told before that its not good to be overweight. Hope this helps others see how important it is to weigh trailers, especially single axle rigs. Sorry if this post is long. Im probably not going to get the answers I want to hear.

I have a 2019 Geo Pro G19FD, and am over the top end of Factory max trailer weight. Factory says 2840 lbs dry +1060 lbs of goodies = 3900 lbs… (I’m at 3900 lbs at the axle on the scale, but 4500 lbs. if you don’t count the using a tongue jack or WDH while hooked up). I FULLY loaded everything up in the trailer and in the truck that I could think of, and filled it with fresh water (I already reinforced the FW tank with 3" Aluminum angle, with 5 ribs). BW and GW tanks were empty. Includes 2 people, 4 6V batteries, 2 full propane tanks, a full 30 gal gas tank, a spare 25 gal fresh water tank in truck bed, 2 kayaks, 2 bikes, a full fresh water tank of 27 gallons in trailer, and the new 30 lb Ruvati 15x20" SS sink in the kitchen; I really cant think of what I could remove payload wise that makes a big reduction. The only heavy payload mods are a foam mattress, a 30 lb sink, a refrigerator stocked with food, and a few bags of clothes, dishes, a few pans, and a OEM shower enclosure (that comes standard now). I cant take much out to reduce payload. My 4 batteries added a lot, but its mostly tongue weight, which the F150 can handle... I know I could survive by taking one propane tank off, that will give me -37 lbs, but that’s mostly tongue weight, I want to think is ok since my problem is what the axles are bearing for the most part. ��
I only drive full of water only a few times a year, so that’s a trailer minus 30 gal x 8.34 lbs/gal = -250 lbs right out the gate, (and less the 25 gal water without an aux tank in truck) but wanted to see where I stand on worst case trips. I have tires on truck 10 ply load range E Hancook LT305/55R20 at 65 psi rated at 3195 lbs max load; Trailer single axle, Goodyear Endurance ST225/75R15 tires @ 80psi (load range E, 10-ply rating and a 2,830 max load at 80 psi.), a TMS, and a Husky CL TS WDH with 800-1200 bars (perfectly adjusted, all is level, after a lot of work). 4 Trojan 6V batteries on the A frame just behind the 2 full propane tanks. Has Torflex single 3500 lb axle. Tongue weight is at 820 lbs. (18.2%). TV is Ford 2016 F150 4x4 short bed Crewcab with max tow package, 3.5L Turbo V6 ; repack trailer bearings about every 3000 miles with Timken USA bearings.

Heres my specs:

F150 Sticker
Truck Front GAWR: 3450 lbs
Truck Rear GAWR: 3800 lbs
Total GVWR: 7000 lbs

Hitch Type: WD Max Tongue Weight: 1210

Trailer Sticker
Trailer GVWR: 3890 lbs
Axle GVWR: 3500 lbs


CAT Weights
(Calculated with “ependydad’s” calculator)

Weigh 1 (truck with WDH hooked to Trlr)
Steer: 3460
Drive: 4120
Trlr axle: 3900

Weigh 2 (truck without WDH hooked to Trlr)
Steer: 3120
Drive: 4680
Trlr axle: 3680

Weigh 3 (Truck only)
Steer: 3460
Drive: 3520

Gross Combined: 11480
Truck weight hitched + WDH: 7580
Truck weight hitched without WDH: 7800
Truck Only: 6980
Camper Weight: 4500
Tongue Weight: 820
Tongue weight %: 18.2%

I figure Im over the Trailer max axle rating by 400 lbs (3900 lbs minus GVWR 3500 lbs), or less if I don’t carry water. From what I was told before, it's not so much about legality as it is about longevity of the trailer itself. Will the frame handle the weight, and/or is the axle the weakest link? Its definitely going to be a variable judgement call.

So if I try and watchout for potholes and bumps, I would like to believe “It's not like 3500 pound axle is going to melt it into a pool of butter. The rating is so you can load it to 3500 pounds and bounce it into 8" deep potholes on a dirt road at 45 mph it's whole life and not expect failure. Some makers build a 2.5 to one safety margin into things… it may take multiple times at those loads to start and have failures as it will bend and flex but not break right away, the metal has to fatigue awhile first. So it may not happen the first time it is overloaded but later it might fail even underloaded”. I guess someday I could upgrade the Dexter axle to a 5000 lb model, but “hoping” that’s not necessary. The trailer tows smooth and quiet and brakes fine on steep grades, and smooth going 60-65 mph, I try and keep it under 62 mph.

Heres my blog from last July, it’s a good read for anyone with my size trailer maybe:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...fd-189297.html

So, is anyone else gambling with an overweight trailer, and actually knows it? I guess Im in denial, and just would like to hear either “we told you so”, or “maybe its been done before, and just be careful”. Hope I don’t get too lambasted.

[NJKris]

I have same model and setup, and know I have to weigh in, but also knew if I started making mods like a heavier mattress, and heavier sink, (the OEM is working fine), and especially adding batteries (I have 2, 4 would DEF be overkill, everything in our trailers is designed to sip DC power, plus a 50 lb inverter generator if needed would be much better than an extra 150 lbs in batteries) I would have a weight problem.



I do appreciate your attention to this, there are so many "I do what I want" type people out there these days. I've gone up ladders with a max rating of 225 lbs, even though I'm well over that lately. I do get a bit nervous. But I know the only person I'd be hurting was myself.

[Oaklevel]

As far as the trailer ......Tires if over are the first weak link, next is the axle.

I can say this the manufacturers do not give a large safety factor as they did in the past.

[BigH]

...you've got to ask yourself a question...do you feel lucky? Well do ya punk?

-Clint Eastwood

[Oaklevel]

Am I see this correctly the trailer weighs 4500 lbs but max capacity of the trailer is 3890. If that is the case your trailer is 610 lbs over gross?

I think that you are rolling the dice for issues. At 4500 looks like the axle weight is a little over if you tongue weight is 820.

Its too early in the AM............................

Good Luck !

[Tblt44]

It seam like all these trailer manufactures have went to single axel set ups on these smaller trailers and most are almost at max before battery propane and all our junk.
Guess it's to save $$

[NJKris]

Saves ME money too! Don't have to pay for 2 more new tires come replacement time, only have to grease 2 sets of bearings. The OP sound like he does a lot of off-grid expeditions, I travel more lightly, bikes MAYBE. Getting my wife into a kayak would be like trying to teach a bear to dance, not gonna happen, lol.

[TitanMike]

As was stated, the tires will be the weakest link followed by axle.

Clearly the OP's setup had exceeded the limits set by the factory and a percentage of any safety margin has been used up. How much? No real way of knowing.

I would upgrade tires to the next higher load range, stay on top of bearing maintenance, and avoid as much as possible not just potholes but bumps in the road that are large enough to create the black spots on the road that build up right after them.

One may be OK when rolling down a smooth road in an overloaded condition but thse heaves, expansion joints that have risen/sunk, bridge approaches that are never smooth, etc, will shock load the axle, springs (even in a torsion axle) and frame. What may have only been a few hundred pounds of overload may now be several times that in kinetic energy.

The only real remedy is to remove every bit of cargo weight that is absolutely NOT necessary. May even require a change in what's viewed as necessary.

As for the truck's door sticker, there are two "ratings" for weight. One is what each axle is actually rated for and then the Gross weight for the vehicle. Adding axle ratings rarely if ever comes up with the same weight rating as GVWR is often a "manipulated" number to fit licensing or tax purposes. As long as the individual axle ratings on the truck aren't exceeded by more than a few pounds, and good maintenance practices are followed, rarely is that a problem. Tires again are the weak point.

Last note. Weight and Speed do not often yield good results. Faster one goes with a heavy load the hotter the tires (and even mechanical parts) get. Driving at a conservative speed is highly recommended with a combination the OP described. Even is the truck has the power to drive 10 mph over the speed limit. Regular stops for equipment checks are highly advised too.

[Boomerweps]

Holy moly!
That is quite a bit over weight ratings.
I've told my tale over finding out I was overloaded on all my axles a few times here.
I placed a piece of plywood on a semi-level spot and set a bathroom Scale on it for tracking. Weight myself, then me holding the item removed. I also have a 40# max baby Scale I bought for shipping stuff, eBay etc. and used that for the smaller stuff. Drove my wife nuts. I went through the pots and pans, ONE cast iron pan is enough, not THREE! One or two glass bowls for the microwave, not a 7 piece set. Cups, hard plates? We mostly use plasticware, got rid of the bulk of the metal silverware. Thought long on what tools of all types would be needed and used and removed the rest. I pulled out extra sheets (2 sets are enough), extra pillows, extra towels (lightweight individually but they add up). Extra lawn chairs (2 vice 5) and tables (just one 4' folding table now). Bottom line: the TT was packed out like vacation cottage expecting a lot of guests. They can bring their own chairs! Cutting the medicine cabinet type stuff in half really pissed her off! Simple things like small bottles of shampoo and dish soap even help.
On the TV, I stopped hauling wood (a biggie) and cleared out a lot of items. I had enough stuff to survive a week darn near anywhere for a few people in there. And build a cabin! I pulled a lot of tools and stuff out.
My recommendation. Comb through both your truck and TT with a critical eye on WHEN are you going to use this or that item this trip. Or is it really needed, even in an emergency. Is it excess for others? How many towels do you need? Even dish towels?
New TV, now I haul wood again
Edit: Do you need that much water for a given trip? Can you wait till you get to or near the CG to fill up the water? I carry jugs of filtered water for drinking and cooking. Average 2 over three days. I started out filling up half the space under a dinette seat with those jugs. What about traveling with the freshwater tank mostly empty, the auxiliary tank empty, and use the auxiliary tank to fetch water when needed?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

Thought long on what tools of all types would be needed and used and removed the rest.

Ever notice how we tend to take a full set of wrenches, combination and socket, SAE and Metric, with us. Then after a few uses we find we only use 3-4 sizes (if that many)

I recently bought a relatively inexpensive set of bearing and seal drivers. Has 9 different sizes of actual driver. I only have two sizes of bearings on my TT. Unused ones will be going into my shop toolbox.

I also recently discovered two 6# hand sledgehammers.

The list goes on but needless to say, they all add up and before the next trip unnecessary tools will be staying home.

[hankpac]

Asking someone to tell you that even though you are in the danger zone that, "yeah, it's quite alright, you'll be safe" is unrealistic and living in a fantasy world.
Those limits are on there for a reason.
No, you CAN'T exceed the limits "Safely".
And no, you won't "only hurt just yourself", you will probably take out an innocent family, or a retiree, when you experience that catastrophic failure.
Start unloading crap to get yourself below limits, with a cushion.
Every time you hit a bump or pothole, you are stressing the system at that point way over maximum. Broken springs, and axles not to mention transmissions, and rear ends as well as brakes, are all being abused.
Simply put, there is no such thing as "too much truck".
Unload or upgrade.
Plenty of people who will say "I do that all the time." I hope I never meet them on the highway. They won't pay your insurance, or your liability.

[Franklins Mom]

We had the Mini Lite 1905 for 5 years – exactly the same as the Geo 19FD specs.

I can tell you straight off that your tongue weight is too high – ours maxed out with 2 – 6V batteries and 2 – 30gal Propane tanks – the trailer was always pushing/pulling us when towing and required full brake replacement within 4yrs because of it.

Your tongue weight should only be 10-15% of your trailer weight and a way to reduce would be to use 20gal Propane tanks and reduce your batteries if you can – we ended up using 12v battery and buying a generator – that we store in the truck – and reduced our tongue weight considerable with a huge difference in drive performance.

Inside the trailer we reduced a lot of what we carried down to what was necessary and removed the rest – as well as organizing the weight of items in truck and trailer to maximize proper weight distribution.