Is it too much for my truck...?

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Lins

You don't need to worry about how much the rear axle drops, you want the front axle RISE to be within limits. Are you saying your front fender height drops after hooking everything up? It looks like your front axle weight decreases only a little which is what you want. We're big on budgeting and spending within our means. I personally would avoid buying a new vehicle just to pull your TT unless you were already planning on doing that, and then you have a pretty nice toy to play with. I would say load up the TT if you can to see how much it changes your TV weight. Because of the truck wheelbase, that trailer may push it around, but it'll be nicer for parking.

After connecting the trailer to the truck the front fender is 1/4" less in measurement from the ground, center of the wheel, than what it is with the trailer not connected. I assumed this was from the WDH adding some pressure/weight to the front axle.

Sorry this info wasn't clearer. I hope this helps.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Lins

You don't need to worry about how much the rear axle drops, you want the front axle RISE to be within limits. Are you saying your front fender height drops after hooking everything up? It looks like your front axle weight decreases only a little which is what you want. We're big on budgeting and spending within our means. I personally would avoid buying a new vehicle just to pull your TT unless you were already planning on doing that, and then you have a pretty nice toy to play with. I would say load up the TT if you can to see how much it changes your TV weight. Because of the truck wheelbase, that trailer may push it around, but it'll be nicer for parking.

Yes! This is exactly what I'm trying to prevent. I already have 3 vehicles. I'm trying to make this possible to tow with my current truck.

[IvoryHemi]

Did you Weight with a full tank of gas and passengers? I wouldn’t worry about being 10 lbs over.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by IvoryHemi

Did you Weight with a full tank of gas and passengers? I wouldn’t worry about being 10 lbs over.

I did.

I tend to agree with being only 10 lbs over. My last question is once we load the typical gear (clothes, food, dishware, trash can, etc, etc, etc...) how much would that change the tongue weight?

I think this is where if tongue weight becomes an issue that we move the LP tanks, 12V battery, and maybe the truck spare tire to inside the trailer to reduce tongue weight.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

After connecting the trailer to the truck the front fender is 1/4" less in measurement from the ground, center of the wheel, than what it is with the trailer not connected. I assumed this was from the WDH adding some pressure/weight to the front axle.

Sorry this info wasn't clearer. I hope this helps.

Dubo, the effect of tongue weight is to lower the rear end of the truck and raise the front end. Raising the front end takes weight off the tires and steering suffers; it's like driving on ice.

The usual goal is to bring the front end most of the way back down, or maybe all the way back down. What Lins is telling you is that you overshot by a little bit.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

I did.

I tend to agree with being only 10 lbs over. My last question is once we load the typical gear (clothes, food, dishware, trash can, etc, etc, etc...) how much would that change the tongue weight?

I think this is where if tongue weight becomes an issue that we move the LP tanks, 12V battery, and maybe the truck spare tire to inside the trailer to reduce tongue weight.

Dubo, need to re-think this a little.

The battery needs to remain connected. It has to power the brakes in a breakaway event. The hydrogen and acid fumes produced by the battery are not good inside either.

It is not only dangerous to move the LP tanks inside, but against the law in some jurisdictions.

The truck spare tire is safe to move.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Dubo, the effect of tongue weight is to lower the rear end of the truck and raise the front end. Raising the front end takes weight off the tires and steering suffers; it's like driving on ice.

The usual goal is to bring the front end most of the way back down, or maybe all the way back down. What Lins is telling you is that you overshot by a little bit.

I was kind of thinking that.

My question now would be when the Curb weight scale was done the front axle with the truck alone was 3060 lbs.

After adding the TT and doing the last scale weight, the front axle lost a little weight and was down to 3000 lbs.

So even though the front suspension was showing as little less measurement from the ground, the Axle actually lost weight. Does this make sense?

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Dubo, need to re-think this a little.

The battery needs to remain connected. It has to power the brakes in a breakaway event. The hydrogen and acid fumes produced by the battery are not good inside either.

It is not only dangerous to move the LP tanks inside, but against the law in some jurisdictions.

The truck spare tire is safe to move.

Understood! Thank you for that info!

[IvoryHemi]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

I was kind of thinking that.

My question now would be when the Curb weight scale was done the front axle with the truck alone was 3060 lbs.

After adding the TT and doing the last scale weight, the front axle lost a little weight and was down to 3000 lbs.

So even though the front suspension was showing as little less measurement from the ground, the Axle actually lost weight. Does this make sense?

Yes that’s normal. Should be ok only losing 60 lbs off the front end. If it was over 100 lbs I’d adjust more

[jwfrede]

Before you made those mods you were probably just within specs. Most 1/2 tons are limited on cargo capacity and you have over 1600lb for maybe a 6500 lb loaded up trailer. If you run with the tanks empty it shouldn't be too hard to keep the trailer cargo to less than 1300 lb, although you will be surprised at how fast it adds up.

You should have about 12% of the trailer weight as hitch weight, so 780 lb. You still have 850lb for people and cargo, gas doesn't count.

Also, at 6500 lb you are just under your total gross vehicle weight.

I have no idea what that lowering kit does and it looks like you derated the whole thing with those wheels and tires. I think if you undo these two mods you shouldn't have a problem with that trailer.

Just did an internet search on that trailer, 32 ft and 7900 lb gross weight. Didn't find the dry weight, you need to check that as 6500lb is about your max and you may need to load maybe 1000 lb of stuff into the trailer.

That 32 ft is starting to get up there. There is no official spec on length but stability starts to become an issue and you need to make sure the trailer is properly balanced with the 12% hitch weight.

Since you are right up at the limits you may find you do not like the ride for long highway trips. I have 1640 lb cargo, and about 6000 lb 25 ft trailer and its fine on the cross country interstate trips. I figure another 1000 lb would max things out and I would find the ride more challenging so am not sure I will upgrade to the 29 ft trailer I have been eyeing.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by jwfrede

Before you made those mods you were probably just within specs. Most 1/2 tons are limited on cargo capacity and you have over 1600lb for maybe a 6500 lb loaded up trailer. If you run with the tanks empty it shouldn't be too hard to keep the trailer cargo to less than 1300 lb, although you will be surprised at how fast it adds up.

You should have about 12% of the trailer weight as hitch weight, so 780 lb. You still have 850lb for people and cargo, gas doesn't count.

Also, at 6500 lb you are just under your total gross vehicle weight.

I have no idea what that lowering kit does and it looks like you derated the whole thing with those wheels and tires. I think if you undo these two mods you shouldn't have a problem with that trailer.

Just did an internet search on that trailer, 32 ft and 7900 lb gross weight. Didn't find the dry weight, you need to check that as 6500lb is about your max and you may need to load maybe 1000 lb of stuff into the trailer.

That 32 ft is starting to get up there. There is no official spec on length but stability starts to become an issue and you need to make sure the trailer is properly balanced with the 12% hitch weight.

Since you are right up at the limits you may find you do not like the ride for long highway trips. I have 1640 lb cargo, and about 6000 lb 25 ft trailer and its fine on the cross country interstate trips. I figure another 1000 lb would max things out and I would find the ride more challenging so am not sure I will upgrade to the 29 ft trailer I have been eyeing.

Thanks for your response! Couple of quick details and a couple questions.

-Trailer is 30'8" on the Florida registration, Sold as a 31'
-Dry weight per the TT sticker is 5,173

1.Does fuel count on cargo? Seem some say yes while others claim no. If fuel doesn't count then that would save me 225 lbs. in the Cargo Calculations.

2. What is it about the wheels/tires that would de-rate the truck capacities?

Thanks in advance for your time

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

Thanks for your response! Couple of quick details and a couple questions.

-Trailer is 30'8" on the Florida registration, Sold as a 31'
-Dry weight per the TT sticker is 5,173

1.Does fuel count on cargo? Seem some say yes while others claim no. If fuel doesn't count then that would save me 225 lbs. in the Cargo Calculations.

2. What is it about the wheels/tires that would de-rate the truck capacities?

Thanks in advance for your time

Cargo capacity is people and stuff you add to the vehicle as manufactured, gas doesn't count against you. If you add a cap or cover that counts as cargo.

You gave a wt rating for the new tires, it looked lower than original to me.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

2. What is it about the wheels/tires that would de-rate the truck capacities?

Thanks in advance for your time

The question wasn't directed at me, but here are my thoughts. Among the factors in rating is how far the sprung weight (vehicle) drops toward the unsprung weight (axles and wheels/tires). You have lowered the vehicle and, IIRC, put on bigger wheels and tires.

Now suppose you have the trailer hooked up and you are driving along at 65 mph and you hit one of those notorious bridges (they're everywhere) where the approaches have sunk but the bridge deck has not. The trailer bounces and drives the back end so low that the tires hit the fender linings. The spinning wheels tear them off and plastic goes flying everywhere. Hopefully it doesn't rip the gas filler off or tear off too much wiring, or blow both rear tires.

That would be my worry about derating.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

The question wasn't directed at me, but here are my thoughts. Among the factors in rating is how far the sprung weight (vehicle) drops toward the unsprung weight (axles and wheels/tires). You have lowered the vehicle and, IIRC, put on bigger wheels and tires.

Now suppose you have the trailer hooked up and you are driving along at 65 mph and you hit one of those notorious bridges (they're everywhere) where the approaches have sunk but the bridge deck has not. The trailer bounces and drives the back end so low that the tires hit the fender linings. The spinning wheels tear them off and plastic goes flying everywhere. Hopefully it doesn't rip the gas filler off or tear off too much wiring, or blow both rear tires.

That would be my worry about derating.

Would I be wrong in thinking the airbags would prevent that scenario from happening? I added the airbags because towing my utility trailer (with small tractor) would bottom out the truck even on a reasonably smooth transition in the road. Zero issues with that since the air bag install.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

The question wasn't directed at me, but here are my thoughts. Among the factors in rating is how far the sprung weight (vehicle) drops toward the unsprung weight (axles and wheels/tires). You have lowered the vehicle and, IIRC, put on bigger wheels and tires.

Now suppose you have the trailer hooked up and you are driving along at 65 mph and you hit one of those notorious bridges (they're everywhere) where the approaches have sunk but the bridge deck has not. The trailer bounces and drives the back end so low that the tires hit the fender linings. The spinning wheels tear them off and plastic goes flying everywhere. Hopefully it doesn't rip the gas filler off or tear off too much wiring, or blow both rear tires.

That would be my worry about derating.

A quick note as well. The rear axle hits a hard stop on the frame prior to contacting the finder liners or gas fill.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

Would I be wrong in thinking the airbags would prevent that scenario from happening? I added the airbags because towing my utility trailer (with small tractor) would bottom out the truck even on a reasonably smooth transition in the road. Zero issues with that since the air bag install.

Your utility trailer example serves to prove my point.

There is a LOT of energy in the bounce I described! If you try to inhibit the motion mechanically (air bags or rubber overload stops), the energy has to go somewhere. Does it rupture the airbags? Break off the airbag mounts? Slam the truck so hard your head makes a bubble in the roof?

If a little trailer caused bottoming, imagine how much worse it would be with a loaded travel trailer!

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Your utility trailer example serves to prove my point.

There is a LOT of energy in the bounce I described! If you try to inhibit the motion mechanically (air bags or rubber overload stops), the energy has to go somewhere. Does it rupture the airbags? Break off the airbag mounts? Slam the truck so hard your head makes a bubble in the roof?

If a little trailer caused bottoming, imagine how much worse it would be with a loaded travel trailer!

Well I think the Utility trailer (~1400 lbs.) while loaded with the tractor (~3,100 lbs.) should technically have a WDH while in use. That was my lack of knowledge previously. I think if I would have a WDH on the utility trailer I may have not needed to make the air bag purchase. I could be wrong.

Tongue weights and Payloads on either the Utility or the TT are similar.

[dubojr10]

Originally Posted by jwfrede

Cargo capacity is people and stuff you add to the vehicle as manufactured, gas doesn't count against you. If you add a cap or cover that counts as cargo.

You gave a wt rating for the new tires, it looked lower than original to me.

So it looks like the original 20" tires to the truck were rated at 114H and my current 22" ones are rated at 118H. I assume due to the shorter sidewall.

Would that be a load rating improvement?

I have no idea what the weight of the original vs the current ones though.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by dubojr10

Thanks for your response! Couple of quick details and a couple questions.

-Trailer is 30'8" on the Florida registration, Sold as a 31'
-Dry weight per the TT sticker is 5,173

1.Does fuel count on cargo? Seem some say yes while others claim no. If fuel doesn't count then that would save me 225 lbs. in the Cargo Calculations.

2. What is it about the wheels/tires that would de-rate the truck capacities?

Thanks in advance for your time

Originally Posted by dubojr10

So it looks like the original 20" tires to the truck were rated at 114H and my current 22" ones are rated at 118H. I assume due to the shorter sidewall.

Would that be a load rating improvement?

I have no idea what the weight of the original vs the current ones though.

Did a quick google, looks like 118H has a higher load rating than 114H, so not an issue. I have no idea if there is any issue with lower profile tires for towing.

[dennist2020]

Sorry if this has been posted already, but Dodge/Ram has a website where you can look up the towing capacity of a specific truck by VIN number.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing-guide.html
The dealer I purchased my Ram from said the towing capacity was 10,000 lbs, but when I checked by my VIN, it was only 9,300, which I feel is more accurate for the specific trim, accessories, etc. added to this specific vehicle.

Hope this helps anyone looking for towing capacity of Ram trucks.