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Old 06-19-2016, 09:42 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by jasonTDI View Post
Follow the instructions of the supplier. They have likely tested it throughly. Not bypassing could cause a drop in pressure and cause flow issues of the atf but I have not seen your set up. That would be worse than just the stock cooler.


The cooler manufacturer had two suggestions and they stated that not bypassing was optimal.


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Old 06-19-2016, 10:00 AM   #82
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The cooler manufacturer had two suggestions and they stated that not bypassing was optimal.


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You're fine. Running the hot ATF through the stock cooler then through the added cooler and then returning to the Trans is most effecient. The stock cooler will take care of a lot of the heat while the aux. one will bring it down some more.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:04 AM   #83
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You're fine. Running the hot ATF through the stock cooler then through the added cooler and then returning to the Trans is most effecient. The stock cooler will take care of a lot of the heat while the aux. one will bring it down some more.
there is so much debating about this all over the internet and when I read the instructions I thought, why all the debating ? It makes sense and its instructing you to do it this way. Many people use theory or assumption and these companies , especially big named ones test these theories. I happen to work in the QA world for 12 years and we text , test and test some more. Product development is all testing as well so I feel pretty good about following the instructions.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:11 AM   #84
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I want to add that looking for the return from teh radiator is not as easy as it seems. I tried teh put in drive and feel for warmer of the 2 lines and they both seemed warmed so then I did it the second recommended way and boy what a mess. I disconnected what I thought was return, asked my daughter to observe and let me know where the fluid comes out of , went into the van and placed it in drive , she screamed ok. I walked out, asked are you sure she said " oh yea". I looked and it was all over. I have a nice big stain on my driveway now. Oh well, live and learn.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:12 AM   #85
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One other thing I didn't mention. The other benefit is it gets the ATF warmed up quicker too.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:14 AM   #86
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I just installed a trans cooler this evening and tomorrow I install the Gage. I am planing on placing it into the test port and I read that its not an optimal spot and some say its good enough, the manufacture of the temp Gage states to use the test port so i'm not sure. I have also read a few posts where people stated that they duct tape the probe to the trans output line and as close as possible and it works well for them. Still not sure what my approach i will be tomorrow but I think i will be going with the test port on the side of the trans. Another thing I did that I read a lot of disagreements on is I did not bypass the original trans cooler on the factory radiator. The cooler installation manual also called this the optimal way to cool and it makes sense to me. What do you all think ?
I think if it were my truck I'd skip the sensor install and buy a scangauge tool for the same price as a single transmission temp gauge I can get the temp reading through the PCM which will be more accurate, and prevent any chance of a false reading or leak from the temp sender install. Not to mention be significantly less work to install.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:15 AM   #87
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I want to add that looking for the return from teh radiator is not as easy as it seems. I tried teh put in drive and feel for warmer of the 2 lines and they both seemed warmed so then I did it the second recommended way and boy what a mess. I disconnected what I thought was return, asked my daughter to observe and let me know where the fluid comes out of , went into the van and placed it in drive , she screamed ok. I walked out, asked are you sure she said " oh yea". I looked and it was all over. I have a nice big stain on my driveway now. Oh well, live and learn.
Usually for the return line on the transmission, it's the rear most line (Ford) or if the fittings are vertical it's the lower line. Which was it in your GM?
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:36 AM   #88
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There were 2 lines on the same side , upper and lower on the passenger side and it was the lower.


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Old 06-19-2016, 10:48 AM   #89
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There were 2 lines on the same side , upper and lower on the passenger side and it was the lower.


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Yup that's the norm. That's what I meant by vertical, the 2 ports are an upper and a lower. It's been like that forever now and I'm just waiting for the day that some engineer gets a better idea.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:00 AM   #90
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I wish I knew that yesterday before I made a mess looking for the line, lol


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Old 06-19-2016, 11:04 AM   #91
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I wish I knew that yesterday before I made a mess looking for the line, lol


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Believe me, you'll remember for next time. That's how we learn, experience!
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:07 PM   #92
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Install completed - this is gonna bring a peace of mind , if temps are safe of course.


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Old 06-26-2016, 08:36 AM   #93
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here is my recent trip stats. 2015 GMC Sierra 5.3L 3.42. TT is 33' and dry 6,000lbs so i figure 7,500 full rear, trip to Jefferson NC Raccoon Holler camp ground. it was a very warm humid day 97F in Charlotte area, in traffic transmission temp about 197-200, stop in millers creek for gas maybe 20 minutes some cool down. north carolina highway 16 north to Blue Ridge Parkway has 2-3 8% uphill grades and very windy one pull is 6 miles outside temp 88 at bottom of mountain 83 at top, my water temp raised to about 220F normally 210F transmission temp went up to 220F. It was a good pull and i maintained speed fine 45 MPH sometimes slower with curves, RMP range near 3,800-4,100 sweet spot. I am going to take the 4 lane HWY 422 with 9 miles of 8% grade and gentle curves down the mountain to get a feel for transmission break and i was wondering if that will make trans temp go up. i will report back on my trip down the mountain, up hill was not white knuckles for my first decent grade. Now the down mountain test.
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:46 AM   #94
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Max Chevy Trans Temperature

Not bad, I've researched a lot on this topic and many state on older and other forums that optimal temp for a trans in 220f. Many state that too low of a temp can also create problems , Yesterday I weighed my set up and I'm pretty maxed out at 12000 lbs total weight combined capacity ( van is 5900 & tt at 5000) . I was kind of impressed but maybe should be concerned at trans temp of 180f tops on the highway and it was upper 80s outdoor temps here. I hope 180s is not too cool of a temp for the trans but I like it and it brings a piece of mind. Now the bad news, I just installed this temp sensor and last night it stopped working, oh well. All in all , I like that my cooler is doing its job, my wdh is providing a safe ride , no swaying and that although I'm pushing the weight limits , the van seems to move without breaking a sweat. Keep us posted , it's interesting to learn from others experiences.


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Old 06-26-2016, 03:07 PM   #95
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here is my recent trip stats. 2015 GMC Sierra 5.3L 3.42. TT is 33' and dry 6,000lbs so i figure 7,500 full rear, trip to Jefferson NC Raccoon Holler camp ground. it was a very warm humid day 97F in Charlotte area, in traffic transmission temp about 197-200, stop in millers creek for gas maybe 20 minutes some cool down. north carolina highway 16 north to Blue Ridge Parkway has 2-3 8% uphill grades and very windy one pull is 6 miles outside temp 88 at bottom of mountain 83 at top, my water temp raised to about 220F normally 210F transmission temp went up to 220F. It was a good pull and i maintained speed fine 45 MPH sometimes slower with curves, RMP range near 3,800-4,100 sweet spot. I am going to take the 4 lane US HWY 422 with 9 miles of 8% grade and gentle curves down the mountain to get a feel for transmission break and i was wondering if that will make trans temp go up. i will report back on my trip down the mountain, up hill was not white knuckles for my first decent grade. Now the down mountain test.
US Highway 421 sorry
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Old 06-26-2016, 03:46 PM   #96
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report back, trip down NC HWY 421 8% grade for aprox 9 miles there is a little flat spot at about 6 mules from top. Transmission brake i was thinking would hold TV &TT at a speed like 50, RPM was around 3,800-4000 and i would stab brake maybe 3 times on way down i was impressed over all and not a white knuckle event. we cheered at at the bottom since it was my first big down hill with about 7,500lbs TT with a 1500 Sierra. a few more and i will be able to remove Rookie sticker
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:08 PM   #97
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report back, trip down NC HWY 421 8% grade for aprox 9 miles there is a little flat spot at about 6 mules from top. Transmission brake i was thinking would hold TV &TT at a speed like 50, RPM was around 3,800-4000 and i would stab brake maybe 3 times on way down i was impressed over all and not a white knuckle event. we cheered at at the bottom since it was my first big down hill with about 7,500lbs TT with a 1500 Sierra. a few more and i will be able to remove Rookie sticker
I thought the 1500s did not brake with the tranny?
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:04 AM   #98
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I thought the 1500s did not brake with the tranny?
i think it is fairly new maybe 2014 when they stepped up towing spec to meet Davis Dam Road Certification
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Old 07-02-2016, 08:04 PM   #99
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My 2014 gmc has the hill brake very nice


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Old 08-17-2016, 10:50 AM   #100
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There is a difference with "grade braking" vs. "hill descent braking." There are three different grade braking modes, but all activate the same using the trans/engine.

Normal Mode Grade Braking
If equipped with a gasoline engine
and an automatic transmission,
Normal Mode Grade Braking is
enabled when the vehicle is started,
but is not enabled in Range
Selection Mode. It assists in
maintaining desired vehicle speeds
when driving on downhill grades by
using the engine and transmission
to slow the vehicle.
The first time
the system engages for each
ignition key cycle, a DIC message
will be displayed.


There is also Tow Haul Mode Grade braking, and Cruise control grade braking. I'll be damned if I can see a difference between the three in the owner's manual, they both use the trans and thus the engine when the trans downshifts to slow the vehicle.

However, on some models Z71 off-road packages I have the switch on mine) there is a Hill Descent control with a switch to turn it on/off. However, I believe, due to the limited speeds, this is designed more for off-road travel vs. interstate.
Hill Descent
Control (HDC)
If equipped, HDC can be used when
driving downhill. It sets and
maintains vehicle speed while
descending a very steep incline in a
forward or reverse gear.
The HDC switch is on the center
stack, below the climate controls.
HDC can maintain vehicle speeds
between 3 and 22 km/h (2 and
14 mph) on an incline greater than
or equal to a 10% grade. A blinking
HDC light indicates the system is
actively applying the brakes to
maintain vehicle speed.
When HDC is activated, the initial
HDC speed is set to the current
driving speed. It can be increased or
decreased by applying the
accelerator or brake pedal. This
adjusted speed becomes the new
set speed.
HDC will remain enabled between
22 and 60 km/h (14 and 37 mph);
however vehicle speed cannot be
set or maintained in this range.
It will automatically disable if the
vehicle speed is above 80 km/h
(50 mph) or above 60 km/h
(37 mph) for at least 30 seconds.
Must be pressed again to
re-enable HDC.


All info is from my 2015 Silverado owner's manual, and is the same for GMC. I have tried Hill Descent on some dirt trails in Moab and it does apply the brakes, I have had grade braking come on with and without using tow haul or cruise control when coming down some steep grades on major highways and you can fee the trans downshifting and then the engine revving up. (In fact, I have grown used to it coming on at a certain location off Hwy 6 in UT and it comes on at almost the exact same point.
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