Maybe sharing My Big 5th Wheel Tow Mistake Will help you

[Webefine]

Walholler, I stand corrected on the length off your truck! I did NOT call you a liar but did insinuate that your truck wasn’t 28’ not knowing that it was modified since you didn’t mention that, again my fault!
I have driven crew cab long bed trucks for years and currently I am traveling and living full time in a 36’ Super C towing a 29’ trailer. Just because I am comfortable driving theses vehicles doesn’t mean that other people would be comfortable driving them whatever their experience level is!
I will not comment on this subject again since I have already disrupted this thread enough!

[Homebrew]

Everyone needs to practice to figure out how it’s done, nobody is born with this skill. Some find it easier than others but everyone can do it if given the time and chance, the determined will prevail.
Some people brag and have many dents ,some are silent with none. Who’s the better person, we will never know.
Welcome to RV life !

[desuhu]

Why we paid extra for the automatic slide hitch. No broken windows for us.

[Lighting546]

Originally Posted by JP Camper

That’s the number one reason I will only own an 8ft bed pick up. I have always had a crew cab with 8ft bed and will bear with the poor turning radius. Yes, they are a pain in parking lots. 😉

Turning radius is even worse in a long bed dually.

For the OP, you might want to make this acronym a part of your backing up routine, G.O.A.L., Get Out And Look. Following that has prevented me from not only screwing up the cab fairings on both of my Peterbilts and from screwing up my pickup when backing my 30’ 5er into a very narrow driveway at my house.

I’m looking forward to trying out the Pro-Trailer Backup Assist option I ordered in my new F-350. I’m hoping it makes things much easier to back into the 9.5’ wide driveway from the 8’ wide street.

[Bhrava]

I got you ALL beat!

I have a Sidewinder. It gives the most cab to trailer clearance for short bed trucks out of any of them. I never have to watch the cap to make sure it clears, it has 22" from the pin to the pivot which gives it at least 8" at a 90*.

HOWEVER!!!

Only IF the bolts are removed from the pinbox to the pivot plate bolted to the trailers frame. When the bolts are in, regardless if they are just loosely nutted or fully torqued, that pinbox does NOT move, and the wedge into the 5th wheel locks the entire unit as one long straight vehicle.

Make a slight turn pulling out from a parking spot and it is guaranteed to destroy the 5th wheel immediately! Yep. Been there, Done that, can thank the dealership for messing up my checklist by "assisting" me with getting it hooked up. Thankfully the frame of the trailer did not get damaged, but you can bet I was royally pissed for both missing the bolt and for the dealer dropping the trailer on it's knees and killing the battery that lead up to me missing it.

I never leave a bolt in, they put the bolt in to move it around with their forklift, so it was not part of my checklist. It is now. Normally I have the pinbox swung 180* around, so I HAVE to swing it forward to hook up to it.

[bigmic21]

If anyone is intrested in a warning system that alerts you before your camper hits your cab let me know. I used a cheap bumper backup sensor kit I got off Ebay for $40. It works great on the cap corners of my 5th wheel.

[Chardagha]

Too late! I did the same Memorial Day weekend with my SB Ford F-250SD and an Anderson Hitch on my Wildcat 5r.
$100 deductible but very disheartening

[Chardagha]

Originally Posted by Hitdrd

We used pullrite on our 5 th, currently its for sale. Bought an A

How much and where? What tonnage is it rated at?

[Chardagha]

Originally Posted by bigmic21

If anyone is intrested in a warning system that alerts you before your camper hits your cab let me know. I used a cheap bumper backup sensor kit I got off Ebay for $40. It works great on the cap corners of my 5th wheel.

I’m interested in the “early warning” system. How hard to wire in?

[GPs37FLH]

Originally Posted by Bhrava

Make a slight turn pulling out from a parking spot and it is guaranteed to destroy the 5th wheel immediately! Yep. Been there, Done that, can thank the dealership for messing up my checklist by "assisting" me with getting it hooked up. Thankfully the frame of the trailer did not get damaged, but you can bet I was royally pissed for both missing the bolt and for the dealer dropping the trailer on it's knees and killing the battery that lead up to me missing it.

Don't mean to be bringing up a really bad memory, but what the hell kind of damage did your truck and RV have when this happened? And, since it was the dealers fault, what did they do to fix their FUBAR, if anything?

[Red Roadrunner]

Originally Posted by RV Bicyclist

I've read all the good advice on this FR Forum.
I purchased a Slider Hitch.
I knew to be careful when backing up and turning sharply....
BUT,
1. I did not slide the hitch back.
2. I was complacent and forgot to watch my angle as the corner of the RV was approaching my rear window.

Posting partly to remind myself to be more diligent in the future and if helpful maybe someone else will avoid the same $550 window replacement error.

Recently had the same experience. We do not have a slider hitch like yours. We have a goosebox that gives more turning ratio than regular king pin type hitch. My bh forgot we still can not 90 a fifth wheel like you can a cattle trailer. Lucky we have glass replacement insurance , deductible only $75.00.

[Eidolon]

It IS possible for someone to point out that another person might be in error. That is not the same as saying they are lying.

On topic, with a Ram long bed, crew cab - pull through parking at the store is the rule, even without 35 ft. of trailer. With the newer puck system of installation, it's not a big deal to get the full bed when needed. While a slider was not needed, I just know I'd forget a sliding hitch and ...poof! Off to Safelite glass.

My solution to similar issues is a check list. I use one for arrival and leaving. Saves a lot of stress and $#$%*&*&!!

[Tundra 2014]

I went w/ a 8' bed to avoid doing this. I did not want the weight of an auto slider and knew I would forget w/o it. Also wanted a tool box.

[moose074]

I am now in that boat, traded an 8’ for 6.9 bed. I’m losing the lighter Ram puck system going back to a B&W non sliding hitch. I am hoping I will be ok. I know on the 8’ bed and “ shortbed friendly” front cap I had tons of clearance and the toolbox almost if ever had the cap over it even on sharp turns. My advice to others is don’t trade tow vehicles while your trailer is in shop. It has been a hustle getting it prepped hoping they don’t call saying trl is ready. Brake controller supposed to arrive tomorrow with the forscan ( new experience for me fingers crossed). Then I have to hope ( ok gonna check Tuesday ) that hitch height is set right don’t want to be finding out it’s to low when picking it up.

[Bhrava]

Originally Posted by GPs37FLH

Don't mean to be bringing up a really bad memory, but what the hell kind of damage did your truck and RV have when this happened? And, since it was the dealers fault, what did they do to fix their FUBAR, if anything?

Just the 5th wheel, The puck twisted the plate and the force broke the jaws. They held, but were quite difficult to release. Dealer didn't give a crap that it happened, oh well, tough. Told them they killed the battery, didn't care. Needless to say, will not be back. If it wasn't for warranty work, I would have done the repairs myself.

In fact, last year while doing my winterizing and prep to close up, I found a pair of pliers stuck in the roof seal on the bunkhouse, put holes in the seal but thankfully did no damage to the roof. I sent pictures and everything and not a word on it.