Need a new Equalizer shank

[mawilson]

You may recall that I replaced my 4x2 5.0L F-150 SCab with a 6.2L F-250 Crew Cab FX4 (4x4). That thing is tall, 7' tall. And it has a Class V (2.5") receiver. My Equalizer has a Class IV (2") shank.

Obviously, the answer is buy a new shank (Fastway confirmed that's all I need to do), but which one? There are three: 3" drop 7" rise, 4" drop 8" rise, and 6" drop 10" rise.

The truck has a serious rake. Ground to front wheel well is 39.125". Ground to rear wheel well is 45.25". (see pic) Both measures are unloaded.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1566313464

So, how to determine the appropriate drop? I doubt that it will be rise. Trial and error is out of the question. One thought is to hook up using the 2" shank only for the purpose of loading the backend to get a loaded height for the receiver (absolutely no pulling!). I'm open to the collected wisdom of the group.

[cboss]

My F250 came with a 2 inch insert for the hitch. I've towed our TT over 18000 miles with it.

[67L48]

Unfortunately, I can't give you the exact answer you're looking for. I'll make three points of varying degrees of utility:

1) For 2" to 2.5", there are reducer sleeves available. Ford has a PN (HC3Z-19H282-A) for this and it's around $25-$30. Or, you can go to Walmart and get a Curt/Reese reducer sleeve for $10. I did the latter. Works fine.

If you need a new shank, then definitely just get the 2.5" one. But, this shouldn't independently drive the need for a new shank. In fact, it shouldn't even be a criterion in the decision process. Base your decision on the ability to level the trailer. If your current shank doesn't drop enough, then you need a new shank ... and then get it in the 2.5" flavor.

2) I went from a F-150 to an F-350. Definitely a taller truck, but I was able to move my hitch head down the existing shank. I'd like another 3/4" of vertical drop, but that is not near enough to justify $130 on a new shank. So, even though the F-350 is much taller than my F-150, the shank had enough adjustment to accommodate both trucks ... granted both my rigs are 4WD.

You're going from 2WD to 4WD, so that may push you into a different delta than I dealt with. But, still, I'd go ahead and try your existing shank first. By dropping the hitch head to the lowest setting on that shank, you might be surprised by how close you are to the right height.

Of course, you may still discover you need a new shank.

3) I think you have a 6.2L and an F-250. So, you definitely have a softer rear end than me (insert your own joke here). I don't know how much weight you're dropping onto the hitch, but the rake should settle out.

This plays into point (2) above, too -- try it with your existing shank first, as you might be surprised how it settles out.

Based on how your trials in (2) go, you should have a good idea on how much additional drop you need. From there, you should be able to spec out the proper shank or, at least, be able to call Equal-I-zer and discuss options/measurements.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by cboss

My F250 came with a 2 inch insert for the hitch. I've towed our TT over 18000 miles with it.

Yours is a 2017. OP has a 2019. 2019s do not come with 2.5 > 2 reducers anymore.

[007matman]

Park both the truck and trailer on a level surface. Unhook and pull up a few inches (just far enough to get the hitch out from under the coupler). Level the trailer out.

Measure the distance from the top of the ball to the ground. Then do the same for the coupler. The difference is your drop. Subtract about an inch and that's the drop you need to get. As always, having some extra is not a bad thing (unless it drags on the ground). Even if you do drag on occasion it could always be shortened (I did this).

[TheWolfPaq82]

Go buy a factory 2.5 to 2" adapter. Factory ones will have a flange on the outer edge to prevent the sleeve from sliding to the back of the receiver tube. Readjust head height if needed. DONE....and far cheaper than a new shank.

[sugarray40]

Does Equalizer make a 2.5" shank?

They didn't last year when I bought one with a longer shank to be able to get my tailgate down. I just used the reducer sleeve and adjust mine, I think it was 4" drop version when I went from my F150 to the Ram.

[itat]

Equal-i-zer sells 2.5" shanks if they make one with the right drop for your application.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/shanks

When I upgraded to my F-250, I bought a new shank from RV Wholesalers. They had the best price I could find at the time.

It took about 3 tries to get it dialed in just right but I had it dialed in so well that I didn't notice a big difference when I went to my fifth wheel. Equal-i-zer makes a great WDH.

[007matman]

One from Curt is available too.

That's what I bought for my E2 (which is very similar).

[rlh1957]

I called the maker of my hitch and explained what truck I had and what truck I moved over to and that it made the trailer too high in front with stock hitch all the way down on it. They looked up what I should need and told me places to look for replacements.
It's not cheap so make sure you are adjusted all the way down on what you have before buying another one.

[ssamme]

Originally Posted by mawilson

You may recall that I replaced my 4x2 5.0L F-150 SCab with a 6.2L F-250 Crew Cab FX4 (4x4). That thing is tall, 7' tall. And it has a Class V (2.5") receiver. My Equalizer has a Class IV (2") shank.

Obviously, the answer is buy a new shank (Fastway confirmed that's all I need to do), but which one? There are three: 3" drop 7" rise, 4" drop 8" rise, and 6" drop 10" rise.

The truck has a serious rake. Ground to front wheel well is 39.125". Ground to rear wheel well is 45.25". (see pic) Both measures are unloaded.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1566313464

So, how to determine the appropriate drop? I doubt that it will be rise. Trial and error is out of the question. One thought is to hook up using the 2" shank only for the purpose of loading the backend to get a loaded height for the receiver (absolutely no pulling!). I'm open to the collected wisdom of the group.

I also traded my F150 for a 2017 F250 crew cab 6.2. I’m towing a Salem 27RKSS.

I went with 2.5 shank and a 6 inch drop. It worked well on mine.

[upflying]

I had to buy a 9" drop shank in the 2" size when I went from a Frontier to a Ram.
Ram supplies a reducer so I can use a 2" shank in 2.5" receiver.
The Ram is very high in the back.

[rlh1957]

My Ford F350 came with two reducers. I use the reducer and my 2" Shank. The reducer just gives you more metal in that receiver, it doesn't make it weaker or less. I don't get any noise from the receiver and shank with hitch on it.
I too had to get a shank with more drop when I changed trucks, the F350 SRW was a good bit higher even with the air bags all the way down.

[thebrakeman]

You do not need an Equal-I-zer brand shank. Just be sure it has the weight rating you need (equal or greater than the ratings on the WDH and your vehicle).

[Ejs4029]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

You do not need an Equal-I-zer brand shank. Just be sure it has the weight rating you need (equal or greater than the ratings on the WDH and your vehicle).

I have a 2.5 Husky shank #32554 it has almost 6" of drop going by the Husky website. I use it with a Husky Centerline Hitch but X2 believe it will work with other brands.....Not very $$$ Rvupgrades.com has for like $61 bucks.

[woo10-210]

I bought a $10 Reese adaptor and welded it to the drawbar. You can swap out the rear blocks in the F250 for '16 and earlier blocks. This will lower the tail end about 1-1/2". The blocks are Ford PN 6C3Z-5598-A. About $35 each from Tasca.

[kluza2786]

I am surprised that your truck didn't come with the 2" adaptor. I bought a 2500HD GMC Denali last year and I found the adaptor under the rear seat. Assuming that you bought the truck new, you might want to contact the dealer who sold the unit to you and ask them why you didn't get the 2" adaptor.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

Go buy a factory 2.5 to 2" adapter. Factory ones will have a flange on the outer edge to prevent the sleeve from sliding to the back of the receiver tube. Readjust head height if needed. DONE....and far cheaper than a new shank.

I don’t know if this is true, or not. With my Chevrolets, this is true, but my friend’s 2016 F-250 came new with a sleeve that has no flange and it is a pretty sloppy fit. He has always griped about how it sucks that he has to fiddle with it so much to get the holes for the pin to align, and he claims that it causes excessive noise because of its sloppiness. Maybe Ford has changed this since then. The the pin holes in the sleeves for my Chevrolets line-up perfectly when the sleeve is bottomed-out to the flange, and there is very little slop in the fit.

I have read here and on other forums that using the sleeve reduces the weight capacity of the receiver and it also makes a weight distribution/anti-sway system less effective. Some of these claims were supported by links to sites with the technical information regarding this. I’m not sure if it’s something that really matters because I’ve never read anything about somebody actually having a problem towing due to the use of a reducer.

EDIT: Here’s what the eTrailer expert has to say about it: https://www.etrailer.com/question-185917.html

Bruce

[woo10-210]

Originally Posted by nomad297

I don’t know if this is true, or not. With my Chevrolets, this is true, but my friend’s 2016 F-250 came new with a sleeve that has no flange and it is a pretty sloppy fit. He has always griped about how it sucks that he has to fiddle with it so much to get the holes for the pin to align, and he claims that it causes excessive noise because of its sloppiness.

Which is why I welded mine. I also use a hitch clamp and I get no noise, no play with 1K lbs. tw.

[Bwood BBQ]

Have you figured your drop out mawilson? I am taking delivery for my 2019 F 250 on Thursday hopefully. I'm upgrading from a 2016 F 150. I was just wondering what you settled on and how everything is working.

[babock]

Originally Posted by woo10-210

Which is why I welded mine. I also use a hitch clamp and I get no noise, no play with 1K lbs. tw.

Shouldn't the clamp be forcing it down instead of up?