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09-27-2021, 03:18 PM
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#1
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Old man RVer
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 264
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Need Husky spring bar lift tool
Boy, did I mess up. I seem to have lost the tool to lift the spring bars on my Husky weight-distributing hitch. The wife is having a field day with my forgetfulness. Searching online for the tool results in many hits, all of which say that the tool is out of stock.
The tool is to lift the spring bars into place, and remove them, from the Husky hitch. It is part #32334. If anyone knows of any source for the tool please pass it along. It will be greatly appreciated and get the wife off my back.
Thanks
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09-27-2021, 03:50 PM
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#2
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(o˘◡˘o)
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 107
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__________________
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09-27-2021, 06:48 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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Amazon has them
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09-27-2021, 07:24 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,426
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Why do you need a tool? Lift the truck and trailer together with the trailer jack and just swing them onto the L brackets, then lower back down.
__________________
2019 F150 4X4 7050 GVWR 1903 payload
2018 Avenger 21RBS 7700 GVWR
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09-27-2021, 07:29 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike134
Why do you need a tool? Lift the truck and trailer together with the trailer jack and just swing them onto the L brackets, then lower back down.
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This is the way!
__________________
2017 Coachman Chaparral 336TSIK
2015 F350 6.7
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09-27-2021, 07:34 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike134
Why do you need a tool? Lift the truck and trailer together with the trailer jack and just swing them onto the L brackets, then lower back down.
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This is what I did for years, both on and off.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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09-27-2021, 09:59 PM
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#7
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Old man RVer
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 264
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Although listed on their website, Autozone didn't have it in stock. I don't shop at Walmart. Automotivestuff did have one and ordered it from them.
Thanks.
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09-27-2021, 10:00 PM
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#8
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Old man RVer
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike134
Why do you need a tool? Lift the truck and trailer together with the trailer jack and just swing them onto the L brackets, then lower back down.
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My tongue jack won't go that high. I still have to lift the bars some to get them into the L brackets. I think I found one thanks to another post.
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09-27-2021, 10:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike134
Why do you need a tool? Lift the truck and trailer together with the trailer jack and just swing them onto the L brackets, then lower back down.
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Because I like my WDH set up properly.
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09-28-2021, 06:14 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Loveland, OH
Posts: 1,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkbre
Because I like my WDH set up properly.
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I used the jack technique for years and I can assure you my WDH was set up properly. I have 20 weight chits to prove it.
__________________
2015 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 4x4 CC SB
2021 Salem Heritage Glen 290RL GenY
1600W solar > 618 Ah LiFePO4 > Victron MultiPlus II > Cerbo GX
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09-28-2021, 09:45 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corn18
I used the jack technique for years and I can assure you my WDH was set up properly. I have 20 weight chits to prove it.
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Neato.
__________________
2017 Forest River Surveyor 247BHDS...
...Tugged by a 2016 F250 XLT FX4 SuperCrew, Shortbed 6.2L, 4wd, 3.73...
...Joined with a Husky Centerline TS 800-1200lbs WDH
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09-28-2021, 10:00 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkbre
Because I like my WDH set up properly.
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You have this poor old guy confused. What does the simple task of putting on the spring bars have with setting up the hitch?
__________________
2019 F150 4X4 7050 GVWR 1903 payload
2018 Avenger 21RBS 7700 GVWR
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09-28-2021, 11:17 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike134
You have this poor old guy confused. What does the simple task of putting on the spring bars have with setting up the hitch?
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With the "no tool" method, you're relying on the electric jack to raise the bars high enough to go up and over the "L" perches, then lower it back down in a set up position. That's all fine and dandy. 2 concerns:
1. What unnecessary stress is being put on the electric jack? Most tongue jacks are rated around 3500 lbs. It raises and lowers the 800+ pound tongue; however, you're also asking it raise the back of the truck which could be a very substantial amount of weight. The physics of it is that the truck's front axle is the fulcrum point and the higher the rear gets, the less load is on the truck's rear axle. Use a the tool or replace the jack....I prefer the tool.
2. With the convenience of being able to hand place the bars on the perches, is also an indicator that once the jack is retracted and the trunnion bars are in place, there may not be enough tension for the bars to effectively work.
In my case, on totally level ground, my jack would have to be fully extended, rear of the truck raised extremely high and I would still have to muscle the bars on. My hitch has been tuned using a scale so I do know it's set up correctly. For ease of applying the bars and saving the trailer tongue jack from premature failure, I use the tool, leverage and "work smart, not hard" approach.
I do question the jacking the truck up method though. If the ground isn't perfectly level and the truck is somewhat nose high or sitting at an angle left to right, what do you do when the jack doesn't get high enough?
__________________
2017 Forest River Surveyor 247BHDS...
...Tugged by a 2016 F250 XLT FX4 SuperCrew, Shortbed 6.2L, 4wd, 3.73...
...Joined with a Husky Centerline TS 800-1200lbs WDH
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09-28-2021, 11:36 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Loveland, OH
Posts: 1,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkbre
With the "no tool" method, you're relying on the electric jack to raise the bars high enough to go up and over the "L" perches, then lower it back down in a set up position. That's all fine and dandy. 2 concerns:
1. What unnecessary stress is being put on the electric jack? Most tongue jacks are rated around 3500 lbs. It raises and lowers the 800+ pound tongue; however, you're also asking it raise the back of the truck which could be a very substantial amount of weight. The physics of it is that the truck's front axle is the fulcrum point and the higher the rear gets, the less load is on the truck's rear axle. Use a the tool or replace the jack....I prefer the tool.
2. With the convenience of being able to hand place the bars on the perches, is also an indicator that once the jack is retracted and the trunnion bars are in place, there may not be enough tension for the bars to effectively work.
In my case, on totally level ground, my jack would have to be fully extended, rear of the truck raised extremely high and I would still have to muscle the bars on. My hitch has been tuned using a scale so I do know it's set up correctly. For ease of applying the bars and saving the trailer tongue jack from premature failure, I use the tool, leverage and "work smart, not hard" approach.
I do question the jacking the truck up method though. If the ground isn't perfectly level and the truck is somewhat nose high or sitting at an angle left to right, what do you do when the jack doesn't get high enough?
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Then you just use the tool. Pretty simple, really.
__________________
2015 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 4x4 CC SB
2021 Salem Heritage Glen 290RL GenY
1600W solar > 618 Ah LiFePO4 > Victron MultiPlus II > Cerbo GX
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09-28-2021, 11:40 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkbre
With the "no tool" method, you're relying on the electric jack to raise the bars high enough to go up and over the "L" perches, then lower it back down in a set up position. That's all fine and dandy. 2 concerns:
1. What unnecessary stress is being put on the electric jack? Most tongue jacks are rated around 3500 lbs. It raises and lowers the 800+ pound tongue; however, you're also asking it raise the back of the truck which could be a very substantial amount of weight. The physics of it is that the truck's front axle is the fulcrum point and the higher the rear gets, the less load is on the truck's rear axle. Use a the tool or replace the jack....I prefer the tool.
2. With the convenience of being able to hand place the bars on the perches, is also an indicator that once the jack is retracted and the trunnion bars are in place, there may not be enough tension for the bars to effectively work.
In my case, on totally level ground, my jack would have to be fully extended, rear of the truck raised extremely high and I would still have to muscle the bars on. My hitch has been tuned using a scale so I do know it's set up correctly. For ease of applying the bars and saving the trailer tongue jack from premature failure, I use the tool, leverage and "work smart, not hard" approach.
I do question the jacking the truck up method though. If the ground isn't perfectly level and the truck is somewhat nose high or sitting at an angle left to right, what do you do when the jack doesn't get high enough?
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Totally agree that's why I use the electric jack working smart not harder. Jack has 4000 lb rating not worried about wearing it out. I use a 6x6 block of wood under the jack foot so never run out of jack travel reguardless of ground/truck angles.
Safe travels.
__________________
2019 F150 4X4 7050 GVWR 1903 payload
2018 Avenger 21RBS 7700 GVWR
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09-28-2021, 03:04 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,613
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Umm...
Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkbre
I do question the jacking the truck up method though. If the ground isn't perfectly level and the truck is somewhat nose high or sitting at an angle left to right, what do you do when the jack doesn't get high enough?
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Umm...Maybe drive a few yards to flat ground and put the arms on there?
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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09-28-2021, 03:38 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
Umm...Maybe drive a few yards to flat ground and put the arms on there?
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If only they made a tool to help you do that....
__________________
2017 Forest River Surveyor 247BHDS...
...Tugged by a 2016 F250 XLT FX4 SuperCrew, Shortbed 6.2L, 4wd, 3.73...
...Joined with a Husky Centerline TS 800-1200lbs WDH
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09-28-2021, 07:18 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 14
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All this chatter is why, I enjoy watching people back in, hook and unhook. I can actually say Ive never seen people just use the jack to hook up. If that was the case why do they offer the spring arm tool? And please show me on the WDH manufactures web site where it says to use the jack and not the tool.
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09-28-2021, 07:35 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,426
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Trade secret to use the jack........had a RV store show me that 40 years ago.
__________________
2019 F150 4X4 7050 GVWR 1903 payload
2018 Avenger 21RBS 7700 GVWR
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09-29-2021, 07:29 AM
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#20
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Mopar Guy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Woodstock, CT
Posts: 423
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i use a reese setup but i was also always a jack user. Maybe once or twice i would use the lever bar. its just easier especially to undo them where the bars snap down with some force.
__________________
Dave
2019 Grey Wolf 24JS- sold
1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial 41wds
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