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Old 08-25-2013, 03:06 PM   #1
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New Equal-i-zer hitch

I just bought a equalizer hitch the other day and I put the ball on and attached the shank to the head. When I put the weight distribution/antisway bars into the head I could not move them in and out. I decided that the bolts that hold the bar in them were probably too tight. So I got out the ole ratchet and tried to loosen it up. Well it was to tight for me to get it off so I got out my impact and that barely got it off. I torqued that nuts back down to about 55lbs and I can now move the bars when they are in the head but it takes all 200lbs of me to move them in and out. Is this normal? Will it get easier over time? Anyone else ever experienced this? Thanks Jake
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:43 PM   #2
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I got an equal-i-zer about a year ago for my Rockwood 2304S and the were a bit tight the first couple of times I towed the camper. They will loosen up up after you complete a few trips. I like the hitch but it can be noisy at times. I spray some white lithium grease on the l brackets and that helps quiet things down. I sure like the hitch, easy to hook up and have had no sway problems.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #3
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I'm not sure what you mean by lubricating the brackets, but don't lubricate the bars where the anti sway friction occurs. This will defeat the purpose of the sway control.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:58 PM   #4
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I do not use much grease, just a bit to keep the squeaking noise down. I have not had any increase in sway with the grease.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:00 PM   #5
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My "Equal-i-zer" brand hitch says to lube the friction areas.
Page 23. "Step 9 - Regular Maintenance:
The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and
well lubricated with a good quality lubricant. They should be lubricated before
each trip. Check for damage or abnormal wear at the beginning of each
towing day and replace if necessary. Use a rag to clean dirt and road grit
from all friction surfaces regularly."
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/eq...anual_0111.pdf
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:10 PM   #6
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I stand corrected. I had a 2 point equalizer hitch a few years ago and lubrication was a no-no. The 4 point system is obviously different. Should have kept my keyboard still.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:15 PM   #7
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As mentioned, its necessary to lube the friction areas of the socket joints. That and a few trips will help. But, make sure to keep those socket bolts between 45 and 65 and check regularly.

Progress claims its acceptable to lube the L-brackets if noise is an issue but I prefer to use their bracket jackets instead of lube.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:20 PM   #8
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I use the bracket jackets as well and an old toothbrush to apply vaseline to the friction areas before most trips. Works well for me!
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffwood View Post
I just bought a equalizer hitch the other day and I put the ball on and attached the shank to the head. When I put the weight distribution/antisway bars into the head I could not move them in and out. I decided that the bolts that hold the bar in them were probably too tight. So I got out the ole ratchet and tried to loosen it up. Well it was to tight for me to get it off so I got out my impact and that barely got it off. I torqued that nuts back down to about 55lbs and I can now move the bars when they are in the head but it takes all 200lbs of me to move them in and out. Is this normal? Will it get easier over time? Anyone else ever experienced this? Thanks Jake
That was my experience too. The bars moved easily on my first Equal-i-zer. My 235 lbs turned 98 lb weakling on the second one I just bought. Couldn't move it at all. I think I loosened the bolts more than you did -I torqued then to the minimum of 45 lbs if I recall correctly. They are still much stiffer than the first one I bought, but at least I can move them now.

They really shouldn't do this kind of stuff to old guys. I thought I was losing my manliness.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:14 PM   #10
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It should be very difficult to move the sway bars in and out on the hitch. I would recommend getting the equalizer grease/lube. Also I would get the "L" bracket padding. This will quiet the majority of the noise on the hitch set up. If you have any questions let me know
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:19 PM   #11
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Thanks for the advise everyone. I am going to get my new TT this week and just want to make sure I have everything ready to go.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:49 PM   #12
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We have the E2 2 point sway with friction anti sway. Well we know that now anyway! When we bought it the dealer sad it was Weight distribution only. We didnt think we had anti sway, last trailer was little anyway. Fast forward to new 2109s. First significant trip, husband lubed the bars to make them easier to get in and out. Guess what. They were anti sway, until the lube. We thought we were going to have to get a New hitch cuz of the sway. Much research later found out what we Actually had and what we did wrong. We actually just have to clean the lube off. Live and learn.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:10 PM   #13
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Yes live and learn! Lol
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #14
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I have the 4-point Equalizer... I lube with high pressure HD grease before each trip. I've never felt any sway while towing.

I met a guy recently who told me he takes his Equalizer off his rig before he enters a campground... Because of the noise. I asked him why he doesn't grease it? He said the dealer told him to never, ever lube the WD system. Imagine his shock when I pulled out the manual and showed him where it says to do just that.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:56 AM   #15
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I have the Equalizer 12k and I have to tighten the bolt a little about every third trip. It does get a little noisy if you forget to grease.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triguy View Post
As mentioned, its necessary to lube the friction areas of the socket joints. That and a few trips will help. But, make sure to keep those socket bolts between 45 and 65 and check regularly.

Progress claims its acceptable to lube the L-brackets if noise is an issue but I prefer to use their bracket jackets instead of lube.

check bolts regularly!!! The first few times my knuckle would loosen up as well as the tilt bolt. Keep the pivot points lubed. I use mower guard graphite on the bars and L bracket. Its a dry graphite paint and embeds itself into the metal. Not messy!!
MowerGUARD™ - Graphite Undercoating for Mower Decks and Blades
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Platokidd View Post

check bolts regularly!!! The first few times my knuckle would loosen up as well as the tilt bolt. Keep the pivot points lubed. I use mower guard graphite on the bars and L bracket. Its a dry graphite paint and embeds itself into the metal. Not messy!!
MowerGUARD™ - Graphite Undercoating for Mower Decks and Blades
That may be worth trying! I just wrap my whole hitch head in a shopping bag before handling, containing the mess.
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jjs2000z View Post
It should be very difficult to move the sway bars in and out on the hitch. I would recommend getting the equalizer grease/lube. Also I would get the "L" bracket padding. This will quiet the majority of the noise on the hitch set up. If you have any questions let me know
X2. The sway bracket jackets are $21.00 and can be ordered at any RV dealer. They are also available at the Equalizer hitch factory store. Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

I have the bracket jackets and use their specified grease. All is quiet.
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:08 PM   #19
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Yes the sway bar jackets eliminate 90% of the hitch noise when turning
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:44 AM   #20
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Yes the sway bar jackets eliminate 90% of the hitch noise when turning
My Equal-i-zer was noisy when I first got it. I finally figured out that one way to quiet it is to make sure that the bars are exactly perpendicular to the L brackets when hooked up. If not perpendicular, the bars ride more on one edge of the L brackets and make noise.

To square then, hook up with the L bracket frame bolts loose. Get a carpenters square and check the angles. Tap the L brackets until they are square. There should be enough movement to allow squaring. If you can't square them, then your bars are not parallel enough with the frame and other adjustments are appropriate.

Tighten the frame bolts and most of the noise will be gone.
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