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Old 08-13-2019, 01:13 PM   #41
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If getting a new WDH just get one with a 2Ĺ" bar - stronger, with less play & rattle noise. Good on ya for moving to a 3500. As a former Tundra owner, I know the truck did not have enough payload capacity.
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Old 08-13-2019, 01:21 PM   #42
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I had bought a reducer for my new truck. I first bought a Curt that stuck out an inch past the receiver. I thought in time that it might crack so I took it back and bought a reducer from B&W. A lot nicer reducer.
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Old 08-15-2019, 06:33 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojurick View Post
Sorry, have been too busy to check out all the replies but getting caught up. Max cargo is listed at 1310 lbs. I can see where that would be easily reached. Didn't mention before, but we have an ARE bed cap on too, so that lessens what we can add.


I will say I am 100% positive the dealer does not have the hitch set up right. I've read through the install and taken some measurements and I would definitely need to start over or as some have suggested upgrade to a heavier duty model.



However, I was able to convince the wife (with the help of many comments) that even with these adjustments and additional costs, it might just be time for an upgrade to the TV. I found a nice 2017 Ram 3500 with incredibly low miles and the dealership is giving a very nice price on our Tundra. So we'll pick that up in a few weeks, upgrade the WDH (properly installed this time) and go from there.


A question while looking at the Equal-i-zer hitches. Their site lists all as a 2", and I know the 3500 has a Class V 2 1/2 inch. I assume I can just use a reducer sleeve without issue, but just checking that there are no hidden pitfalls I haven't read about yet.


Thanks for all the replies and help. Y'all got me a new truck!!!! And hopefully we and everyone else on the road are just a little safer.
My GMC 2500HD came with a 2 1/2" hitch and I use a sleeve with my equalizer with no issues. You can purchase a 2 1/2 " equalizer shank. You have to purchase the hitch without the shank and purchase the 2 1/2 " shank separate. All the good distributers can help with that (etrailer, PPL rv, etc.)
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:12 PM   #44
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You are so smart to upgrade to the RAM 3500. The Tundra would nickle and dime you to death for alternations to make a too small TV merely less inadequate.



With the big RAM, the sway will go away and you'll have much greater payload, less sway and more braking capability. Much calmer towing in tough conditions.



I even had sway with my 3/4 ton 8.1 liter Suburban and my 3/4 ton 7.3 litre diesel Excursion towing a 33 ft. Sandpiper bumper hitch with WDH and two sway bars.



With my one ton RAM dually diesel, I left the sway bars at home and there was no sway.



You are so much safer with the HD truck. Very smart! Congratulations!
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:02 PM   #45
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You need to do a center of gravity calculation i think you are constantly running outs

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Originally Posted by Gojurick View Post
Joined this forum after researching my issues and hopefully I can gain more insight here. I think I know my problem, but want unbiased opinions. I will try to give as much information as I can.

TV is a 2007 Toyota Tundra with a 5.7. The TV is slightly lifted but has stock size tires and aftermarket trailer brake controller. I've towed many trailers/boats over the years with it without issue, but never one as long and as heavy as what we purchased. In looking for a trailer I kept all recommended weight limits in mind as well as the setup of the TV. We decided on a 2020 FR Grey Wolf 27RR toy hauler, GVWR 8010, UVW 6076. We purchased out of state, about 1200 miles away (too good a deal to pass up). We picked up the trailer and had an E2 WDH installed at the time. Since the garage on the TT was empty, it did sag the rear of the truck.

For the first 3 hours of the drive home it was back roads to another town where we picked up a RZR XP 1000. With that in the garage it lifted the front of the TT and the rear of the TV somewhat, but still some sag. From there we hit the highway and to say the drive home was white knuckles is an understatement. We did experience a lot of crosswind, which was no fun, but the worst was getting passed by the big rigs and getting that "sucked in" feeling. I kept my speeds down, which of course got me passed a lot but who cares. Safety first. I stopped frequently to verify everything looked okay, but it just never pulled the way I'm used to. Made it home okay in 2 days.

I decided the rear suspension of the TV needed a little help and got some air bags installed. Loaded the TT as we would for a trip and took it for a test drive. Truck was much more level and it seemed to help. The real issue came when we left for a 13 hour drive to Arizona. About 30 minutes in I just felt something wasn't right. Pulled over, checked the air bags and they seemed much too inflated (60 PSI). I dropped them down to 40 and went on my way. I should have listened to my gut because it still just didn't seem to be pulling as it should. Too much pull from the TT, some bounce and a little sway (can be the roads here). Pulled over, checked everything, it all looks good, but doesn't feel right. Continue on. About 3 hours in, just north of Salt Lake and I feel like I barely have control. Anyone whose driven though SLC knows I-15 is a mess and there was no way I was prepared. I pulled over, sat for about 30 minutes and informed my wife we were heading home. Still not a pleasant 3 1/2 hours but made it safely.

Since then I purchased a Weigh Safe hitch so I could see where my TW is. It sat at about 700, a little low. I played with air bag levels, hitch heights, moved some weight around in the TT and got it to 800, right around 10%. Put my WDH back on and took it for a drive. Still just doesn't track right. Decided to unload the RZR, that brought the HW to almost 1100, definitely too high for my TV. Decided to back the RZR into the garage so more weight would be towards the rear axle instead of the garage door. This brought the HW up to almost 900, more where I want to be. Put the WDH back on and back to the highway. Definitely better but not to the point where I would take it on an extended trip. So for now she sits in the garage.

If you made it this far, I am open to all thoughts, suggestions, sarcastic remarks, whatever you got. Do I need the trailer axles looked at (still under warranty), something else on the trailer or is my TV just not man enough for the job? I'm trying to borrow a larger truck to take it out to see if it pulls better but haven't gotten there yet.

TIA, I've already read through a lot of accident threads and I have no desire to post one of those. If I've left out any pertinent info just let me know.

i think you need to do a center of gravity calculation i think your constantly running outside of the envelope...very dangerous situation under the right circumstances will flip your tow vehicle
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:10 PM   #46
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For towing the Ram 3500 is a much better choice for the long term. I had a Ram 2500 that towed great when new but as it got older and the rubber bushings in the coil spring rear suspension started wearing, it got a lot squirrelier when towing. The 3500 has old style leaf springs that ride a little rougher but resist side sway a lot better.
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:11 AM   #47
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2017 Ram with Equalizer

I have a 2017 3500 Ram and used the Equalizer 4pt hitch with my 301BH Outback (7200 lb dry weight). It is a great setup. No issues and really didnít need bars as attachment of the trailer only dropped the bed a quarter inch.

Ram supplied the reducer for the class V hitch with my new truck. It was in the bag of goodies.

The one thing I will warn you about is the height of the hitch. You will likely need a significant drop down. Pay attention to the hitch that it has plenty of drop down adjustment. I reused this hitch from my Silverado and I barely had enough drop down to make the trailer level. I could have purchased a new stinger with more holes, but it turned out to be close enough.

Good luck. You will like this setup. You can kiss your white-knuckles goodbye.
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Old 08-16-2019, 07:41 AM   #48
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I have a 2019 27rr TV 2018 Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost
I have a Harley Road Glide in Garage app 1000lb
Cat Scale Wgt. TA. 7000Ib TV. R. 3900. F 2900
TV is Rated at 16100lb GVCW
no problem pulling this set up
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:11 AM   #49
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3500 upgrade JOY

3 weeks ago, we bought a Ram 3500 diesel w/ 8 ft bed, upgraded from Ram 1500 w/bags, WOW, towing has become a joy, towing is a pleasure now, just back from a 2300 mile trip, w/ winds, rain and mountains with no issues, no sway, we tow a 32 TT, 8100 lb on scale, WDH is setup very light, hitch wieght is 1050, no squat at all even without WHD, camper level, with or without full water. Longer wheelbase, more power, if a tractor trailer is empty, they feel us, we barely move even when they blow by.
12.5 mpg average towing over our trip, Hemi gasser only got 8.2, wife enjoyed driving, she never/ could not drive w/ 1500, We stay at 64mph, able to pull for about 7 hours and not feel shot when done.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:46 AM   #50
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with a 1 ton truck U should be able to pull that trailer without WDH
when I go that big I will be moving up to a Diesal power & a 5th Wheel Trailer, Glad your happy my friend
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:36 AM   #51
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Hard to find a 5er with a floorplan that suits our needs, our 2902ws TT is a couples camper w/dual slides, use for camping in Nat. Parks & St.parks, height and lenght are issues. also use for Dogshows, we remove Loveseat for crates w/threadmill and still have a couch,etc. Reese Dual Cam WDH is there only for added extreme sway control, very often we have steady high winds, 20+ here at SE coast,no problem for 3500 but I have been hit by a broadside 45mph gust while on top of a bridge w/1500, dash lite-up like a X-mass tree, my butt puckered, believe TT would have flipped without my Reese, better to have more, than to not enough.
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Old 08-16-2019, 12:03 PM   #52
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All the advice has been AWESOME!!!! Thank you so much to everyone that contributed. You really did make me (and the wife) happy about our selection to upgrade the TV and she is actually super excited to get it. We pick it up next Monday and when we get home I'll look into the WDH. Equal-I-Zer's website recommends the 12k but says we might be at the edge, so I'll look at the 14k. A local dealer has them in stock and I'll see if we can work a deal for the 2 1/2" shank. Small price for extra piece of mind. My knuckles will thank me.


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Old 08-17-2019, 02:01 PM   #53
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You stated that the tv is lifted. I would find a level spot and unhook the trailer and level the trailer. Compare the height of the tv to the trailer. The greater the difference the more weight you add to the tv rear and rear axle of trailer. The hitch can make matters worse in your case I think it has. Hook it back up and measure how much the tv squats down. You may need lower the hitch on the tv. This is how I would set it up. The hitch should then work better. I have used similar hitches myself pulling car trailers and travel trailers. I did pull a 26 ft long Argosy with a 1986 short bed Ford Ranger with a V8 under the hood and it did well.
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