no trailer brakes

[Flybob]

While you are correcting this problem, I recommend you remove all the wire nuts used on the brake lines and replace them with soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. Wire nuts are a poor choice for wiring connections where they are continually seeing water and road contaminants.

[upflying]

part two to this story..
Like a dumbass, I purchased this trailer in February when temps were frigid. The PDI walkthrough did not include checking the plumbing since it had been winterized. Lesson learned, make them dewinterize it.
When I brought the trailer back for the brake problem, I asked the service "advisor" to dewinterize it since temps has warmed a bit here in Reno. She assured me the plumbing system had a PDI by the service "technicians" when it arrived from FR.
I told her the PDI I had did not include checking the plumbing and I wanted it pressurized in my presence just like what I should have had a month earlier. She looked at me like I was some sort of nut, as if I was challenging her honesty and integrity.
When I went back to pick up the trailer for the non-repaired brakes, the service "technicians" were just completing the dewinterization.
Ooops, the water pump would not pressurize the system. After replacing the water pump, they discovered a water heater by-pass hose clamp was loose which allowed air to enter the suction side of the water pump. This caused the pump to cavitate and not pressurize the system.
I thought the service "advisor" had assured me the service "technicians" had conducted their own PDI when the trailer arrived on the transporter.

[upflying]

part three to this story..
This was the first time I had actually seen the service center and the people who work there.
I would advise anyone who is planning to purchase an RV from a dealer to ask for a meet and greet and walkthrough on the service side of the dealership.
You will learn a lot about the operations and management of a RV dealership on what you observe in the service department.
Size of the service bays, cleanliness, organization, service "technician" attire, location of management in relation to the service department and number of RV's parked in the service line que give you a lot to ponder on whether this dealer is the best choice.
Additonal concern would be the lack of fencing and security around the service department. Is the dealership open to customers who wander the dealership at 3am seeking parts from the Midnight RV Parts and Supply?

[dbledan]

Sorry you are having so much trouble. I too bought in winter but dodged a bullet. The dealer was at best ok. I have never been back completing all my own repairs so far, propane pigtails, kitchen faucet (my fault), regulator, replaced missing bolts in steps.

I would suggest for future warrenty work that you get preautorized from FR and have a mobile tech complete the work. Then you don't wait months and can watch the work get done. It may save you a season. You could have the work done while camping!

If you really wanted to show the dealer up you could have the mobile tech do the repair in front of the dealer [emoji84]

Best of luck! Enjoy.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by dbledan

Sorry you are having so much trouble. I too bought in winter but dodged a bullet. The dealer was at best ok. I have never been back completing all my own repairs so far, propane pigtails, kitchen faucet (my fault), regulator, replaced missing bolts in steps.

I would suggest for future warrenty work that you get preautorized from FR and have a mobile tech complete the work. Then you don't wait months and can watch the work get done. It may save you a season. You could have the work done while camping!

If you really wanted to show the dealer up you could have the mobile tech do the repair in front of the dealer [emoji84]

Best of luck! Enjoy.

Thanks, I am happy I decided not to buy the extended warranty. Once my year of the factory, "comedy" warranty is up, I'm not coming back.

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by upflying

part two to this story..
they discovered a water heater by-pass hose clamp was loose which allowed air to enter the suction side of the water pump. This caused the pump to cavitate and not pressurize the system.

If this is what they told you find another service facility. I am pretty sure they should have said that "the clamp on the antifreeze suction line was loose" All of the water heater plumbing is on the pressurized side of the pump and you would have had a flooded RV if the loose connection was there.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by Flybob

If this is what they told you find another service facility. I am pretty sure they should have said that "the clamp on the antifreeze suction line was loose" All of the water heater plumbing is on the pressurized side of the pump and you would have had a flooded RV if the loose connection was there.

I think that's what they told me, I could be mistaken. My RV plumbing nomenclature is still in the learning phase.

[upflying]

Yesterday, the dealer told me the brakes were fixed by "adjusting" them. No, the problem is electrical, not mechanical. Skeptical, I drove down to pick it up and still no brakes. Pulling the breakaway switch did not actuate the brakes, trailer still rolls freely.
Dealership RV repair facilities must hire Elkhart QC managers.
I left it at the shop.

[goduc]

How are they checking the brakes to see if they actually work? Are they towing it with a different truck?
Sounds like a ground wire loose or disconnected.
Also sounds like a totally incompetent dealer.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by goduc

How are they checking the brakes to see if they actually work? Are they towing it with a different truck?
Sounds like a ground wire loose or disconnected.
Also sounds like a totally incompetent dealer.

It sounds like something intermittent, they seem to work for them but not for me. They've tested my brake controller a number of times to try to blame it on me.
I am guessing a brake wire between the 7-pin and the magnets was nicked with a sheet metal screw during manufacturing. This is causing an intermittent ground.
Last I heard, they are pulling everything off to the backing plates.
The suggestion to pull it with one of their trucks is a good idea.

[Bama Rambler]

Nothing on the truck end would stop the breakaway switch from activating them though. If it doesn't activate the brakes, then the truck controller certainly can't.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Nothing on the truck end would stop the breakaway switch from activating them though. If it doesn't activate the brakes, then the truck controller certainly can't.

Correct, but they are claiming the breakaway switch has worked for them. But as they saw for themselves, just not all the time. On three different occasions..

[upflying]

I got a call this afternoon from the service "advisor".
She said the "technicians" pulled the brake drums and the brakes shoes were "contaminated" with grease. The contamination resulted in no braking action.
She said the trailer would be out of service for two to three weeks while they contact the trailer builder (Lippert) to get a warranty authorization to install new brake shoes and clean the drums.
Now I have rhetorical questions for the FR forum as to what would cause grease contamination to the brakes on a new trailer.
Did the brakes get cooked which melted the wheel bearing grease by an 80 mph transporter during the journey from Indiana to Nevada? (To the best of my knowledge, this trailer was delivered on a flatbed to the dealer, but I'm not positive)
Did a Lippert employee play a cruel joke and smear the brake shoes with grease during assembly?
Did the same Lippert employee forget to install grease seals on the inner bearings?
Did the same Lippert employee pack too much grease in the wheel bearings?
Why did the dealer service technicians initially report no power to the magnets during an earlier "diagnosis"?
I'll keep everyone updated but in the meantime, I would suggest anyone purchasing a new trailer to include pulling the drums off the axle spindles for a brake inspection during the PDI.

[mwdilday]

Originally Posted by llr

My TT was the same way when I picked it up, needed a lot of adjustment

Ditto same here. Adjusted the brakes and now they are working great.

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by upflying

I got a call this afternoon from the service "advisor".
She said the "technicians" pulled the brake drums and the brakes shoes were "contaminated" with grease. The contamination resulted in no braking action.
She said the trailer would be out of service for two to three weeks while they contact the trailer builder (Lippert) to get a warranty authorization to install new brake shoes and clean the drums.
Now I have rhetorical questions for the FR forum as to what would cause grease contamination to the brakes on a new trailer.
Did the brakes get cooked and melt the wheel bearing grease by an 80 mph transporter during the journey from Indiana to Nevada? (Too the best of my knowledge, this trailer was delivered on a flatbed to the dealer, but I'm not positive)
Did a Lippert employee play a cruel joke and smear the brake shoes with grease during assembly?
Did the same Lippert employee forget to install grease seals on the inner bearings?
Did the same Lippert employee pack too much grease in the wheel bearings?
Why did the dealer service technicians initially report no power to the magnets during an earlier "diagnosis"?
I'll keep everyone updated but in the meantime, I would suggest anyone purchasing a new trailer to include pulling the drums off the axle spindles for a brake inspection during the PDI.

I always try to give folks the benefit of the doubt just because it makes me less stressed.

My guess...After it was delivered to dealer they lube the axles as part of their "inspection" using an automatic grease gun and blew your inner seal greasing the brakes along with the bearings.

Well intentioned maybe, but bless their hearts. At least they looked? This way you can blame the dealer that already said they were working when they were not.

My $.02 is get it out of there and take it to a trailer shop slowly...or call a mobile tech with authorization from lippert first. Odds are you will get approval for the fix before they ever even call them.

[mwdilday]

Are you sure it is grease and not brake fluid?

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by mwdilday

Are you sure it is grease and not brake fluid?

That trailer comes with electric drum brakes. Unless he added hydraulic brakes (possible) There would not be any hydraulic fluid. Just wires a big magnet and apparently grease [emoji20] .

[mwdilday]

Originally Posted by dbledan

That trailer comes with electric drum brakes. Unless he added hydraulic brakes (possible) There would not be any hydraulic fluid. Just wires a big magnet and apparently grease [emoji20] .

Oh ok. Thanks.

[babock]

Grease on the brakes happens often when using the EZ lube "feature". Many of us including my self do not use it for this very reason.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by babock

Grease on the brakes happens often when using the EZ lube "feature". Many of us including my self do not use it for this very reason.

Good catch, I do not recall seeing an EZ lube Zerk fitting on the center of my hub caps. My TT has those fancy aluminum wheels and all I recall seeing is a plain center cap.
And yes, I have electric brakes, not hydraulic surge brakes.