Normal Brake temps after towing?

[mj0528]

I was checking the outer part of brakes with my new IR temp gun and was reading in the high 90s for 3 and one at 120. Is the one at 120 going bad or are the other 3 not tightened up enough thus not generating enough heat? I'm reading all kinds of stuff on the web but one thing I'm seeing in common is that 120 isn't that hot but shouldn't they be all close to the same temp?

Pretty leery of messing with the star wheel after what just happened where I had to call in some assistance and waste a lot of time but I'll do what I need.

Thoughts?

Thanks as always!

[GreenImp]

I agree that 120 isn't that high, but it seems unlikely that you have 3 problems rather than a single. You definitely have cause for investigating further however, with the drastic difference between them. The higher temp isn't necessarily brake related....wheel bearings can also cause high temp readings as well.

[mj0528]

Originally Posted by GreenImp

I agree that 120 isn't that high, but it seems unlikely that you have 3 problems rather than a single. You definitely have cause for investigating further however, with the drastic difference between them. The higher temp isn't necessarily brake related....wheel bearings can also cause high temp readings as well.

Ok, apparently I have a zerk that pumps grease in. How many pumps should be used on these brake buddies I believe they are called or is that not the direction I should go. Nonetheless, how many pumps is advised when packing the bearings?

Now that I think about it when I was trying to look at the diff between the star on a diff wheel, I moved the plate up which I believe clicked the star wheel on the odd temp wheel so I'm thinking the brakes are either too tight on that one or the others are too loose. Geez, these brakes are a pita. Screwing one up makes me nervous about messing with them. I'll pull the wheel after jacking it up and spinning. Wife is gonna shoot me after looking at the brakes again lol. The bill on the one I screwed up wasn't exactly cheap.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by mj0528

Ok, apparently I have a zerk that pumps grease in. How many pumps should be used on these brake buddies I believe they are called or is that not the direction I should go. Nonetheless, how many pumps is advised when packing the bearings?

Now that I think about it when I was trying to look at the diff between the star on a diff wheel, I moved the plate up which I believe clicked the star wheel on the odd temp wheel so I'm thinking the brakes are either too tight on that one or the others are too loose. Geez, these brakes are a pita. Screwing one up makes me nervous about messing with them. I'll pull the wheel after jacking it up and spinning. Wife is gonna shoot me after looking at the brakes again lol. The bill on the one I screwed up wasn't exactly cheap.

The adjuster screw is needed to adjust the brakes .you need to adjust all the same . i spin the wheel while i give a turn or two the the adjuster once the wheel will only go around one or one and a half times the brakes should be set correctly . using the zerk to grease bearings is not the correct way to pack bearings . it's fine to use between packings but should not be counted on or called a bearing pack . when using the zerk you need to be spinning the wheel at the same time . if youhaven't packed the bearing in 2 yrs or 6000 miles you should do a full tear down and repack

[mj0528]

Ok, I'll check it but I've got to figure out how to back it off when tightened

[fonzie]

Always use jack stand for safety....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tf1Bc526zE

[mj0528]

Roger that, thanks!

[Flybob]

The ez-lub hubs are setup so that the new grease is injected in the rear of the bearings and old grease is pushed out the front around the jerk fitting. There is no real number of pumps, you are supposed to pump until you see new grease coming out the front. A word of caution on the ez-lube. Be sure the hub is warm and the grease you are adding is warm ( so it flows easily). Pump slowly so as not to blow out the rear seals. Never use a power gun. As mentioned above turn the wheel slowly while adding grease. Clean the old grease up well as it will be flung out while traveling if not cleaned up

[aceinspp]

You also may want to check the wheels for tightness of the bearing nut. If you had any repack lately it could be to tight compared to the others. Later RJD

[mj0528]

Ok, this one has to be when I was trying to check the star wheel and moved it tighter a few clicks when I was pushing the spring plate out of the way. Just concerned to try to move it down. The one I had issues with wouldn't spin down. Had to break the springs and fold in the pads to get the cover off then rebuild that wheel

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by mj0528

Ok, I'll check it but I've got to figure out how to back it off when tightened

Tighten until you can't turn the star wheel, then back off until you can feel or hear a slight, very slight, drag

[mj0528]

See I couldn't back off the one that went to hell. It only went one way

[chuckyb9876]

I noticed on one trip that the temps on the drums were different. I just had to find out why as I only have a single axle. I always do an IR non contact thermometer reading. Realizing that engaging the brakes means heat will be produced, I turned off my brake controller for the next stop and used the TV's brakes. Both drums measured the same(more or less) with the controller disengaged so I knew something was wrong..
I engaged the controller and as we were heading home, I just kept this fact in mind. Arriving home, I jacked the wheels off the ground and pulled the emergency break away stop cable out of it's safety switch. One locked up as it should have and one did not. After replacing the safety cable I took the drum off the non locking wheel and found that whoever put the floating electric brake on the assembly had not left enough of an arc in the wiring harness in it rubbed completely thru one of the wires. I ohmed the electric brake out and found it was good at 4.0 ohms. I soldered another wire on and replace the drum assembly back on. While the wheel was off the ground the wheel spun with a little noise as it does with the spring loaded electric brake touching it. I pulled the emergency brake cable out of it's switch and the brake locked up, telling me that I had a good circuit. i replaced the safety cable and it spun once again.
I hope this helps. YouTube also helped in the process.
While I was in this process of removing the drums I repacked the bearings in the drum assembly and dated my journal.

[GreenImp]

Originally Posted by chuckyb9876

I took the drum off the non locking wheel and found that whoever put the floating electric brake on the assembly had not left enough of an arc in the wiring harness in it rubbed completely thru one of the wires.

The first time I repacked my bearings, I found this had happened to one of mine at the factory also. Luckily it's an easy fix.

[moondog2000]

I shoot my bearing hubs with a IR gun every time i make a pit stop. They should be within 5 degrees of each other. The ones on the side facing the sun will be a few degrees higher. I had a problem with one hubs temp climing higher on a trip. I tore it down when I got home and what had happened is the brake shoe retaining spring on the backing plate had broken and the shoe was rubbing on the drum. It had cut a v more than half way through the drum. Thank God I was not on a long trip.