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Old 03-05-2022, 12:32 PM   #1
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One more hole down or longer shank?

Thoughts please. I believe I'm too high. I think I have one more hole on this shank. I have to go buy a wrench... Don't have one big enough.

Should I go down one hole or buy a new shank with more drop?

Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 03-05-2022, 12:44 PM   #2
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Personally, I'd take the truck in to a tire shop, without the trailer attached, and see if they could drop you down bolt hole. They would have the sockets, impact and torque wrench to do it properly. I believe those bolts should be, depending on the hitch, better than 200 ft.lbs, and I don't think you'd budge them with a wrench.. Then rebook up the trailer and see where you sit. I'd take your before and after measurements on the fenders too and see how they change.
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Old 03-05-2022, 01:23 PM   #3
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you need to go through a complet and proper setup process on that hitch.

lowering it 1 hole will make the trailer a bit mor level but from what I can see it will still likely be a little nose hitch.

The suggestion to check your wheel well measurements is correct, if the rear of the truck is above where it was before the trailer was hitched you could reduce the tension on the bars which would also make the trailer a bit more level.
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Old 03-05-2022, 01:43 PM   #4
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Looking at the picture you posted, you will have to buy a new shank in order to drop it down another hole.
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Old 03-05-2022, 05:50 PM   #5
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As suggested, I started from scratch with the Equalizer instructions. I'm stuck at step 3.

Trailer is parallel to the ground, 21 inches front and rear frame.

Existing ball needs to be 1 inch or less above the trailer coupler.

I can't get there from here. Need a new shank.

I don't have the right tools. I either buy them or ask my dealer to do it.

I like tools... [emoji16]

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Old 03-05-2022, 09:11 PM   #6
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I rented a 500 ft-lb, 3/4" drive torque wrench with socket for $18 to readjust my equalizer when I got my new truck. You might consider doing that. Total outlay for the readjustment: $18 plus the gas needed for two round trips to my local tool rental place.
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Old 03-06-2022, 10:04 AM   #7
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Ok... Follow on question.

Measured for new shank. 25" to top of receiver, 20 Inches to top of coupler. I'd like a 2.5" receiver size shank.

Equal-i-zer website recommends 90-02-4325 with a 6 inch drop. I'm guessing I will be using most all of those 6 inches.

Is there any harm in getting the next size larger with a 9" drop? 90-02-4900

Cost difference is less than $5

Thanks!
Ron
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Old 03-06-2022, 11:08 AM   #8
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Most of the time the 6 inch of drop would be from the top of the receiver to the ball mount. Then you put the ball on top of that so the 6 inch drop actually becomes more like 3 inches to the top of the ball. Top of ball to top of coupler is the measurement you want to use when setting the ball height so the 9 inch would be the minimum I would be looking at.
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Old 03-06-2022, 03:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron045 View Post
Ok... Follow on question.

Measured for new shank. 25" to top of receiver, 20 Inches to top of coupler. I'd like a 2.5" receiver size shank.

Equal-i-zer website recommends 90-02-4325 with a 6 inch drop. I'm guessing I will be using most all of those 6 inches.

Is there any harm in getting the next size larger with a 9" drop? 90-02-4900

Cost difference is less than $5

Thanks!
Ron

The biggest issue with too much drop in the shank will be the unused portion extending below the "ball mount". Might find yourself digging grooves in the pavement when entering parking lots where you have to cross the jump that keeps water from flowing from gutter into parking lot.
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Old 03-06-2022, 04:13 PM   #10
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Correct Hitch Setup

There are numerous videos and instructions online which explain how to set a weight equalizing hitch correctly.

If you choose not to do this yourself due to lack of proper tools, then go to an RV dealer and have them do it. Or perhaps many vehicle dealers will do this for a price. Nothing is free these days.

One can do it themselves by using a very level parking lot, a ruler to make measurements, a 6 ft level, some masking tape to note numbers on the vehicle, and required wrenches. Add an hour of your time and some sweat equity and get 'er done.
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Old 03-08-2022, 12:35 AM   #11
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There are numerous videos and instructions online which explain how to set a weight equalizing hitch correctly.

If you choose not to do this yourself due to lack of proper tools, then go to an RV dealer and have them do it. Or perhaps many vehicle dealers will do this for a price. Nothing is free these days.

One can do it themselves by using a very level parking lot, a ruler to make measurements, a 6 ft level, some masking tape to note numbers on the vehicle, and required wrenches. Add an hour of your time and some sweat equity and get 'er done.
RV dealerships are the worst choice to set up a WDH correctly ! They mess it up every time !
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Old 03-09-2022, 08:12 PM   #12
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The new shank arrived today. I have a new HD TV so I decided to get the 2.5" shank to avoid having to use the sleeve in the receiver.

Damn this thing is heavy.

I think I might buy the wrench, socket and torque wrench and do it myself. Gas alone to get to my dealer and back will be $40. Then there would be the cost for them to do it.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Ron
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Old 03-09-2022, 09:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron045 View Post
The new shank arrived today. I have a new HD TV so I decided to get the 2.5" shank to avoid having to use the sleeve in the receiver.

Damn this thing is heavy.

I think I might buy the wrench, socket and torque wrench and do it myself. Gas alone to get to my dealer and back will be $40. Then there would be the cost for them to do it.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Ron
I’d bought them also and keep them the trailer just in case.
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Old 03-09-2022, 09:45 PM   #14
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Your safety chains are hooked backwards.
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Old 03-09-2022, 11:10 PM   #15
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Your safety chains are hooked backwards.
How so? Please explain.
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Old 03-09-2022, 11:12 PM   #16
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How so? Please explain.
They should cross.
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Old 03-09-2022, 11:15 PM   #17
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They should cross.
It might be hard to see. But they are crossed.

I thought maybe you meant the direction I hooked on top vs the bottom.

Does that matter???
Ron
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Old 03-09-2022, 11:23 PM   #18
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It might be hard to see. But they are crossed.

I thought maybe you meant the direction I hooked on top vs the bottom.

Does that matter???
Ron
Yes, it does. They should be hooked with the open side facing to the rear.
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Old 03-10-2022, 12:55 AM   #19
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Yes, it does. They should be hooked with the open side facing to the rear.
I agree that is how we were taught so that the hook can't jump off if you hit a large bump. However, I'm not certain this applies with a safety hook that can't jump off once hooked.
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Old 03-11-2022, 05:26 PM   #20
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Solved - New 9" drop shank

The new shank arrived. I followed the Equal-i-zer instructions found the optimal height and setup.

It looks maybe a tad low but that could just be an illusion based on where I'm parked. The level looks pretty good.

I appreciate the thoughts and inputs you all provided.
Thanks.
Ron
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