Overloaded truck - what advice would you give?

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by B and B

My setup is very similar with SRW but I am not over rear axle weight when fully loaded. I have no extra fuel tank. One thing he does need to check prior to shedding load is the hitch position. If he can afford to move the weight forward by remounting the head in the more forward position. This may move some weight forward.

I did notice he was UN-loading the front axle by 80 lbs. or so with the fifth wheel attached. He does have plenty of capacity on the front/steer axle yet.

[CurtPutnam]

My take is that the bigger/heavier the rig gets, the more safety margin is needed if not absolutely required. He needs to know where and why he stands with respect to safety and family

[MillMitch]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I did notice he was UN-loading the front axle by 80 lbs. or so with the fifth wheel attached. He does have plenty of capacity on the front/steer axle yet.

Along the same vein, and i don't tow a 5er so this is probably a dumb question- but would adding air bags to lift the back of the truck, push some weight to the front axle?

[Oaklevel]

I would be somewhat concerned as he is planning long trips.............. a safety factor would be a better idea. If he was staying local I would go with it.

The tires are my big concern....................

[Windjammin]

Based on the numbers provided I would have 2 major concerns. First he is 800 pounds over his RAWR on the truck. Second he is 520 pounds over the rear tire rating for the truck. To me these are engineering limits that should not be exceeded. Therefore advice should be smaller trailer or larger truck.

[CoMaddMax]

Add Firestone airbags to the back if it's drooping and have fun!

[koller1509]

Originally Posted by aircommuter

I would clear the snow and weigh again, change tires to 295, that gives 8160 on those per pair, the axle rating changes with dual wheels but the actual axle and brakes are the same, it is just rated as a unit. That same axle is rated at 9750.

This has been debated on the Cummins Forum - the axles on the dually and c&c are not the same as the SRW models. I would agree that the axle will handle it fine.

[Oaklevel]

Too be correct I would say stay within limits, but as I said before the tires are my biggest concern....................... I have been overloading rear axles since 1975, no it is not right but I have never had an issue because of it ...........

Even carried 3/4 ton of stone in the bed and rode the rear axle on the frame of my old Bronco many times. Should have kept her and got rid of................ oh wait never mind.

But having said that the tolerances today are not what they were 20 years ago.

The guys around here would just put duel wheels on the rear and go for it....... even a couple of duel wheel Rangers around here........

sorry reminiscing ............................

[D W]

Originally Posted by ronheater70

He's over but not enough that I would be extremely worried about it. 500 pounds or so on 16K is not a huge deal to me. You can easily shed that by packing a little less.

As it stands, no 500 lbs is not a big deal, but add another passenger, camping equipment, clothing, food and sundries and we're probably at 1000 or more. Packing a little less is code for take nothing. Sure, it will go down the road, but it will task the driver and the TV.

[ronheater70]

Originally Posted by D W

As it stands, no 500 lbs is not a big deal, but add another passenger, camping equipment, clothing, food and sundries and we're probably at 1000 or more. Packing a little less is code for take nothing. Sure, it will go down the road, but it will task the driver and the TV.

I agree somewhat, but the jump from say 16K (or whatever the limits are ) to 16.9K will probably not be very noticeable on a properly set up rig, as say going from 11k to 15K.. Theres ways to overcome the issue, however I agree its likely a bandaid fix and if he's already running an auxiliary fuel tank then don't know how likely would be to trim back

[valleyduo]

What was all loaded on his truck besides the fuel tank? Over 9000 just in truck weight is pretty heavy for an srw. Personally I would eliminate the fuel tank and anything else that doesn't need to be in the truck. With a GVWR of 12500 he ought to be able to make his numbers line up with some adjustment.

[BandJCarm]

I have NO idea anymore what is right and proper about towing. My new advice is "just tow that sucker". If you can't make it, you'll upsize this or downsize that. If you can, you'll smile. I hate to give anyone advice anymore.


Me??? I have never said "Wow, I have too much truck!"...........

[spock123]

I pull about the same weight as he does I would guess. I pull Black Mountain a lot, 50mph up and 50mph down without any problems. I have pulled the Cedar Creek for more than three years now with a 2012 Silverado 3500 SRW diesel and I have pulled the camper a lot of miles. My 32RL on the yellow sticker says the camper weighs 15,750 lbs loaded, it won’t ever be that heavy. The only thing your friend does different from me is he weighs his rig. I have never weighed my rig, i can stop my camper just as fast as a dually can. My SRW can pull my camper just as fast as a dually can, the camper doesn’t sway when I open up my Silverado. I normally start out at 63mph but as more dually’s pass me I open up the Silverado. I have seen people that trade up for a dually and after a few months trade back down for a SRW. If I was pulling a really big camper I would look at a dually, I really only want to pull about a 36ft camper, I’ll probably end up keeping this one till I die. At 150,000 miles on this 2012 Silverado I’ll probably keep it too. I just don’t believe in weighing campers, it’s not a commercial vehicle. But do what makes you happy

[MikeRP]

I would tow this trailer but I would do everything possible to get under the RAWR. But if you can’t, I would go with 19.5 inch tires and Rickson rims. There is a set of tires that is nearly the same outside diameter as the 18 inch tires. That will increase your tire carrying capability up to 9500+ lbs. I would add riderite air bags on the rear. One thing about those as you level the truck perfectly and have zero sag in the rear that will transfer weight to the front axle which is good.
Also I would consider upgraded brakes.

But it’s a lot easier, to look at how your loading the trailer, maybe add the airbags first, and relieve yourself of stuff you don’t need. Also get good tire minders to monitor the tires.

Less = More. We are minimalists. If something isn’t used in a year, we move it to home storage or sell it. Now I’m not talking about spare fuses, parts and tools for repairs, I’m just talking about normal stuff that seems to accumulate in the front storage compartments.

You will eliminate 800 lbs very quickly is my guess.

Good luck!

[CaptnJohn]

If it were me ~~ replace the tires with Sailun 235/85 (not 80)/16. Rated at 4400 @ 110psi. Then I'd run that combo. Those tires would have me nervous!

[Southern Guy]

When you blow out a rear tire on a single rear wheel drive 3/4 ton TV pulling a 5th wheel and you are 600# over on TV rear axle weight doing 65 mph you will have second thoughts about keeping that set up. Rear axle weight of TV was the only item over. Results: $3,600 damage to truck bed from blown tire. Stopped without incident. DW scared and shaking.
Replaced F250 with F350 DRW, TPMS for all tires and what a difference. Much more comfortable travels and happy wife. As a matter of fact she picked out the truck.

[Blender]

Truck tires, have them upgraded!!!

[spock123]

Look I don’t want to give bad advice. The number one thing pulling a camper is safety , it comes down to what you think is right for yourself and your family. I am like most people and have never weighed there truck and camper or car and camper. Do what makes you feel safe. If the truck and camper was mine I would load up the camper and truck and take a trip, fill your auxiliary tank too. If you are close to Black Mountain run down it and up. Get a feel for your rig. No matter what is said on here you are never going to be stopped and weighed. If you are afraid you can’t stop the camper and you really want to keep the camper for awhile then install disk brakes. The disk brakes are great but they cost about $3,000 bucks

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by spock123

Look I don’t want to give bad advice.

The number one thing pulling a camper is safety , it comes down to what you think is right for yourself and your family. I am like most people and have never weighed there truck and camper or car and camper. Do what makes you feel safe. If the truck and camper was mine I would load up the camper and truck and take a trip, fill your auxiliary tank too. If you are close to Black Mountain run down it and up. Get a feel for your rig. No matter what is said on here you are never going to be stopped and weighed. If you are afraid you can’t stop the camper and you really want to keep the camper for awhile then install disk brakes. The disk brakes are great but they cost about $3,000 bucks

That first sentence...

You are doing exactly what you said you don't want to do...

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

That first sentence...



You are doing exactly what you said you don't want to do...

Yeah, kind of odd. Doesn’t want to give bad advice and then basically says not to worry about weights as long as it FEELS safe. Lots of things feel safe right up until the moment they don’t and everything goes south.